My biggest tip for a beginner would be to flip less, and only one flipper at a time. When a friend pointed out how long it took a ball to drain with the flippers at resting position my mind was blown. Letting a ball hit a dead flipper and bouncing to the other is huge. It slows the ball down so you can control it and make an accurate shot.

Pinball 101 was a cool video, not sure if that is still available.

Most of all play a lot and have fun!

Ah, got it. I thought you were talking about that upper orbit you hit with the upper flipper. I'm incredibly lucky if I get 5 consecutive off that. Usually it's just 1-2.

So far my best consecutive is 8. Feels like the jump ramp on No Fear.

So, yeah, it looks like the switch 65 "R Ramp Made Opto" issue remains... switch is still active, doesn't look like there's anything occluding the path.

As far as I can tell, the transmitter and receiver link to a 2-pin and 3-pin connector; when I unplug/unpower those, the switch goes off, but on reconnecting them they're still active, so it's not a connector-reseating issue on that side. I also tried unplugging and reconnecting connector CN11 on Node 9, but that didn't help either...

It almost seems like it's functioning backwards... It's default on, and flickers off briefly when I pass something in front of it (unlike all of the other optos). Could this problem be resolved by rewiring? And if so, what would I be switching?

Check the alignment of the optos to make sure the sender and receiver are pointing straight at each other.

If that doesn't help, sounds like one opto is out or the wiring's broken to one. Opto pairs register a "hit" if their invisible beam is broken. But if the emitter isn't sending or the receiver can't receive because one or the other is defective, the beam is always broken and the switch is always on.

I had this with my NIB Munsters - had to change the optos which Stern sent pretty quickly. Good luck.

Thanks kindly, both! Yeah, doesn't seem to be an alignment issue... Sounds like the next step is contacting my distro... I appreciate the insights!

Hey, I've got those 2 xilien guys coming too. Now I'll have to find another spot to place em!

If you know how to solder and have the tools, you can borrow an opto from a less important location (if there is one) or another Spike machine until you get a replacement.

Yessir, I'm on the list too and also feel they are the perfect fit back there. Love the spinner effect!!
My game looks like somethings missing right now....they feel necessary!!

Ha put them in the same spot thats where they belong you hit the scoop they come out

where did you get them?

Glad to hear it as I ordered this mod a couple weeks ago and am super enthusiastic about receiving it. The photos look stunning. I’ve not been adding many mods to my games lately but this was one I just could not pass up.

Anyone doing a knock off Avenger’s shooter rod for this Godzilla? I saw frankmac ‘s installation of it and it goes perfect with this game…better even then on Avengers.

...

Looks like the "2004 iwakura xilien mini figure" capsule toys. $2 new in a vending machine in japan. $20-$40 now.

Fantastic mod..

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Folks, I'm starting to tweak up my machine to deal with small annoyances. Occasionally, when the ball is dropping out of the ramp to the right flipper, it bounced back at the end, rather than hitting the end and dropping through straight away.

I'm not seeing an obvious adjustment on the ramp (other than the nut that allows you to center it on the lane)

Is there a trick for this sort of adjustment?

Ebay is where i found mine but it looks like all sold out

So, good news is that this is definitely going in the right direction, its not the magnet or anything. I played around taping the holes on the bracket. Lower half did not help. Taping the vertical front half was getting better.

Right now i taped around left bracket hole leaving a relatively small hole open. Plus taping half right hole. This makes the switch work often but still not very consistent, fast balls still do not close opto!

The reason i did not tape the diods directly yet is that the bracket holding both diods can only be removed by removing the building first, and i have to admit i fear doing that. In addition it seems like a lot of work step by step because for each increment of taping i would have to reinstall the building for testing with gameplay...

Are you having consistent switch hits with that opto? I played a pro and it really worked everytime without an issue no matter how fast the ball was

Ordered a premium tonight said delivery is the end of 22 or front end of 23. Wish I got in when you guys did I didn't see this coming but I think it's worth the wait I bet it only improves in time and it's already great!

just got my premium last night and does anyone else having a issue with moving the playfield? mine is crazy tight in the cabinet and is difficult lifting and lowering? mine has zero room on the sides

Contact Distributor or Stern. Should not be super tight. Next issue will be removing your glass.

Found 1 pair on ebay

What pitch are you set up at? I initially had my game a bit steeper than I do now, and I was getting some bounce back off the end of that wire. After I lowered pitch (not because of the bounce back) it wasn’t happening anymore.

I'm at 6.9 (not too crazy). I'll try taking it to 6.8

For what it's worth, I received my game a week ago and I'm level and at 6.8 and it seems to play 100%. Loops are smooth, the building drops the balls to the left flipper, and I don't get SDTM drains by shooting the shot to the left of the building entrance. For those having all / some of these issues, my advice is to continue to play around with your level and pitch and hopefully you can find the right combo

Just got the call, I’ll have my premium next week. Super pumped!

6.8 is where I am at as well.

Ok I am taking the plunge. Late 2022 early 2023 the King of monsters will be mine. Looks like I could be getting EHOH and GZ around the same time.

I have had some challenges with mine compared to TMNT and Mando. I actually had to adjust some of the plastics behind MechaGodzilla and to the left of the bridge to bring them in from the sides a little. This helped but its still a tight fit so I bought my first set of side art protectors just to be safe when I'm doing maintenance.

Yes, my playfield moves and slides fine but I have to be very careful about the plastics on the upper left and right as it goes back in place. Hardly any room for error compared to my other recent Sterns.

Sounds like cab could be racked. Do you have a framing square?

The glass was not installed in the game upon delivery?

Gotcha. Time to take measurements and compare them to your manual.

Check level on the bottom edge of the front and back cabinet panels. Your playfield is level but the cabinet may be twisted. This would also make it difficult to drop the playfield hangers into the lock bar slots.

Joined the club yesterday. Enjoying it!

Big thanks to Rob @ MAD Pinball!

Recycled an old fridge magnet to log into Insider Connected, works great.
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I did this for my wife and I it's great having it right there to swap in and without messing with the phone to bring up photos etc....

Just don't laminate as the sensor doesn't like the gloss shine for reading

“Mothra joins the battle”

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Very nice idea, may have to do something similar for the family like Key Fobs with QR codes

Got my premium a week ago and I've been too busy playing it and trying to get caught up in this thread until just now!

No issues at all except the horseshoe shot does go SDTM about a third of the time (although I thought that was intentional since these are no inserts/value for that shot other than the "secret" double jackpot).

I don't think a game has gotten its claws into me this badly out-of-the-box. Loving it! Current grand champ is 936 million.

I'm interested to see how this particular protector works out above the magna-grab.

The clearances between the moving bridge & the magnet plastic are extremely tight. Owners should be looking at their games closely, because when the bridge opens, the metal frame of the bridge can make contact with that plastic. Repetitive hits will eventually cause that plastic to wear down & break. I'm really surprised they didn't include an extra magnet plastic, because of all the plastics in the game, I think it's the one that's most likely to break eventually.

The leading edge of that plastic "floats" above the magnet, so the only way to protect it is to add a protector underneath it. But this is going to raise the plastic a few millimeters, leading to more contact with the opening bridge.

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Aw crap... I just ordered a metal "luggage tag" from Shutterfly with my Pinside badge on one side and the Stern IC QR on the other... Might be too shiny; let's see what happens...

Super7 has an affordable Godzilla i case any are interested
https://super7.com/products/godzilla-reaction-figure-shogun-original

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Excellent points, great advisory... May certainly have to refrain from installing all of them. I actually only tried to throw on the easiest to access last night (while swapping rubber for Titans). The protectors for the MechaG shield couldn't be installed because the current screws aren't long enough...

Lol wtf is that from?