(Topic ID: 300354)

Stern Godzilla Official Owners Club King Elwin

By beltking

2 years ago


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“What model did you order?”

  • PRO 282 votes
    20%
  • PREMIUM 889 votes
    63%
  • LIMITED EDITION!!! 242 votes
    17%

(1413 votes)

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Topic index (key posts)

25 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items. (Show topic index)

There are 27,172 posts in this topic. You are on page 51 of 544.
#2501 2 years ago
Quoted from BallyKISS1978:

Nah it wasn’t that bad. Move along. It did very well during the pandemic with a limited theatrical release. So more people will disagree with you than me. Next.

It was horrible.

#2502 2 years ago
Quoted from nicoy3k:

I find the inserts in the game to be pretty odd, they are small and hard to read, and way back in the playfield. No inserts near the slings but rather in the center of the playfield under the wireform intersection so they are obstructed…

nicoy3k I find the MechaGodzilla insert to be the most annoying. If you are gonna use it in modes, then make it clear and point RGDs in it! I'm in a mode looking for a shot only to realize that stupid insert is lit but not in the color that corresponds to the mode because we had to save 50 cents.

#2503 2 years ago
Quoted from DeathHimself:

I must say the Tesla Towers mod is awesome!!
[quoted image][quoted image]

Awesome...mine should be coming any day then...glad you approve

Wife thinks mods are crazy...LOL. I think they are fun, and this one is cool. The burning city speaker mod Hayfarmer has if also awesome

#2504 2 years ago
Quoted from Rarehero:

Can those of you who’s games do this explain the laws of physics to me? Lol …the building literally aims the balls toward the drain. How are your games going to the left if the game is level and gravity is the same where you live?[quoted image]

Not sure but my game is definitely level, maybe on some games the building was somehow installed a few more degrees clockwise direction than other games so when the balls dump they head for the lower portion of the left flipper. I have never had an STDM building ball dump, as a matter a fact when I saw people putting the sticker diverter dots on there games I had to read back a ways in this thread to understand why they were doing it.

#2505 2 years ago
Quoted from Concretehardt:

Not sure but my game is definitely level, maybe on some games the building was somehow installed a few more degrees clockwise direction than other games so when the balls dump they head for the lower portion of the left flipper. I have never had an STDM building ball dump, as a matter a fact when I saw people putting the sticker diverter dots on there games I had to read back a ways in this thread to understand why they were doing it.

I'm wondering if the building is completely level on yours or a fraction of a degree off, which would dump the balls one way or the other.

#2506 2 years ago
Quoted from Concretehardt:

Not sure but my game is definitely level, maybe on some games the building was somehow installed a few more degrees clockwise direction than other games so when the balls dump they head for the lower portion of the left flipper. I have never had an STDM building ball dump, as a matter a fact when I saw people putting the sticker diverter dots on there games I had to read back a ways in this thread to understand why they were doing it.

My game is also perfectly leveled from right to left, although I just received it and have only about 35 games on it with about 18 Godzilla multi balls I never once seen them go SDTM. They all go pretty much towards the left flipper.

#2507 2 years ago

WTB an LE. Please let me know if you have one you are willing to part with.

Thanks,

Mike

#2508 2 years ago
Quoted from Rarehero:

Can those of you who’s games do this explain the laws of physics to me? Lol …the building literally aims the balls toward the drain. How are your games going to the left if the game is level and gravity is the same where you live?[quoted image]

Mine were 99% stdm, dead level at just below the building. Little triangle spreads them out differently every time .

#2509 2 years ago

Has anyone messed with the magnet settings on current code? A slow shot through the building will get that nice wrap around the magnet & drop to the upper flipper like in the promo videos. A fast shot will often whip right past the magnet, or get whipped fast to the left & ricochets off the ball guide & past the upper flipper.

#2510 2 years ago
Quoted from Rarehero:Has anyone messed with the magnet settings on current code? A slow shot through the building will get that nice wrap around the magnet & drop to the upper flipper like in the promo videos. A fast shot will often whip right past the magnet, or get whipped fast to the left & ricochets off the ball guide & past the upper flipper.

I think that’s fine? If you want a guaranteed feed just hit the orbit

#2511 2 years ago
Quoted from nicoy3k:

I think that’s fine? If you want a guaranteed feed just hit the orbit

I dunno, the design & magnet use seems to be clearly made to whip the ball from the building orbit up above the upper flipper so you can then make a shot with it. The magnet settings were weakened a bit in this update…wondering if there are settings that strengthen it a bit or if we just have to wait for the next update.

#2512 2 years ago
Quoted from Rarehero:

I dunno, the design & magnet use seems to be clearly made to whip the ball from the building orbit up above the upper flipper so you can then make a shot with it. The magnet settings were weakened a bit in this update…wondering if there are settings that strengthen it a bit or if we just have to wait for the next update.

The ONLY thing you can adjust is the part you're talking about. You're SOL if you want to fix the magnagrab in 0.80, but tweaks and possibly a user-facing menu option for that are coming still. You'll have to wait for the next version(s).

"GODZILLA MAGNET PULSE DELAY TIME" - after the ball activates the "BUILDING EXIT" switch, this the the length of time (in ms) that will elapse before the magnet is pulsed (for flicking the ball up the left orbit lane)
"GODZILLA MAGNET PULSE DRAW TIME" - length of time (in ms) that the magnet will be pulsed after waiting for "GODZILLA MAGNET PULSE DELAY TIME" above (for flicking the ball up the left orbit lane)

So to get a better grab on faster balls so it will have a better chance of whipping it back, I think you would reduce the pulse delay time (so it turns on sooner after coming around the building, and increase the pulse draw time (so it's holding longer), effectively widening the window for it to catch a faster ball.

LMK how it works.

#2513 2 years ago
Quoted from Rarehero:

I tried these settings - Godzilla LE main speakers are default 4ohm…changing the setting to 8ohm makes a huge difference in clarity & quality. The other settings though, made the highs waaay too high - hurt my ears a bit actually.

Wow! This was a HUGE change ... sounds so much clearer
Thanks for the recommendation!

#2514 2 years ago

My friend Scott and I played the snot out of my premium today and had a blast! Looking forward to seeing where the code goes.

#2515 2 years ago

New Godzilla installed. I just wanted to include a picture of the Oreo.

20211113_222411 (resized).jpg20211113_222411 (resized).jpg20211113_222433 (resized).jpg20211113_222433 (resized).jpgIMG-20211113-WA0000 (resized).jpgIMG-20211113-WA0000 (resized).jpg
#2516 2 years ago
Quoted from sushko:

New Godzilla installed. I just wanted to include a picture of the Oreo. [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Does he move or anything? Why did you replace the original?

#2517 2 years ago

Now that I've done it, sustain pedal is 100% the way to go for the center button on Godzilla (and probably BK:SoR, too). You have to be careful to get either a universal with switchable polarity or one that is OFF at rest and ON when pressed, or it won't work.

I used a CASIO SP-3 which is flimsier (plastic casing) than the Yamaha FC5 (metal casing), but the Yamaha is reverse polarity and the CASIO works as-is, which is important as I'm trying to keep the instructions simple. I'm waiting for a 1/4" jack mono extension cord to come in and I'll write up a thread how to do the mod so the pedal can be plugged and unplugged as needed externally. Total cost should be about $25 and it does require you to solder 2 wires.

Honestly Stern should just have a downward facing 1/4" jack on the underside front of the cabinet from here on out on all their Prem/LEs at the very least (BOM addition <$1) and then sell a branded Stern metal casing pedal for like $49.95.

Been playing the game with the pedal and it's night and day when that formerly accursed "charge the heat ray" callout happens. With the pedal? No problemo.

Casio pedal is here:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00070E8I8

14
#2518 2 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Now that I've done it, sustain pedal is 100% the way to go for the center button on Godzilla (and probably BK:SoR, too). You have to be careful to get either a universal with switchable polarity or one that is OFF at rest and ON when pressed, or it won't work.
I used a CASIO SP-3 which is flimsier (plastic casing) than the Yamaha FC5 (metal casing), but the Yamaha is reverse polarity and the CASIO works as-is, which is important as I'm trying to keep the instructions simple. I'm waiting for a 1/4" jack mono extension cord to come in and I'll write up a thread how to do the mod so the pedal can be plugged and unplugged as needed externally. Total cost should be about $25 and it does require you to solder 2 wires.
Honestly Stern should just have a downward facing 1/4" jack on the underside front of the cabinet from here on out on all their Prem/LEs at the very least (BOM addition <$1) and then sell a branded Stern metal casing pedal for like $49.95.
Been playing the game with the pedal and it's night and day when that formerly accursed "charge the heat ray" callout happens. With the pedal? No problemo.
Casio pedal is here:
amazon.com link »

Isn’t the game design that it’s supposed to be a risk reward thing of taking your hands off the flippers?

#2519 2 years ago
Quoted from nicoy3k:

Isn’t the game design that it’s supposed to be a risk reward thing of taking your hands off the flippers?

I moved the weight on that proposition toward fun. I understand the theory. In practice, not fun as-is.

Fixed it.

(Same thing with the useless BK-SoR magna-save on the lockdown bar button no-mans-land. Pedal would fix it and bring back the fun.)

#2520 2 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

I moved the weight on that proposition toward fun. I understand the theory. In practice, not fun as-is.
Fixed it.
(Same thing with the useless BK-SoR magna-save on the lockdown bar button no-mans-land. Pedal would fix it and bring back the fun.)

This is going too far imo. Closing off the outlanes is more fun too, so is 5 ball…but no.

#2521 2 years ago
Quoted from Rarehero:

I tried these settings - Godzilla LE main speakers are default 4ohm…changing the setting to 8ohm makes a huge difference in clarity & quality.

Way better, thanks!

#2522 2 years ago
Quoted from rob3:

This is going too far imo. Closing off the outlanes is more fun too, so is 5 ball…but no.

Fortunately I'm not coming to your house to forcibly do it to yours and open up your outlanes.

Maybe Keith can add a Track and Field-like pump option in the menu so I'm not just laying on the pedal when it comes time to charge during the game. That'd be even more fun and I have enough appendages to do all that at once.

#2523 2 years ago

.

#2524 2 years ago
Quoted from Rarehero:

Has anyone messed with the magnet settings on current code? A slow shot through the building will get that nice wrap around the magnet & drop to the upper flipper like in the promo videos. A fast shot will often whip right past the magnet, or get whipped fast to the left & ricochets off the ball guide & past the upper flipper.

I've messed with mine a lot...my game does basically the same thing yours does....a fast shot won't get redirected by the magnet.

I reduced the delay to 5, and the hold time to 450, and it definitely makes a difference. It seems to more consistently do what it's supposed to, but a fast shot can still whip around, and not get redirected. I hope this gets addressed in a future update.

#2525 2 years ago

Got my premium last Friday. Wow what a game. In monster battles their are characters will locks over them. Are these yet to be coded in the game ? Or is their a way to unlock them

#2526 2 years ago
Quoted from addams40:

Got my premium last Friday. Wow what a game. In monster battles their are characters will locks over them. Are these yet to be coded in the game ? Or is their a way to unlock them

I thought those are mini wizard, built Idk as I don't own the game

#2527 2 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Now that I've done it, sustain pedal is 100% the way to go for the center button on Godzilla (and probably BK:SoR, too). You have to be careful to get either a universal with switchable polarity or one that is OFF at rest and ON when pressed, or it won't work.
I used a CASIO SP-3 which is flimsier (plastic casing) than the Yamaha FC5 (metal casing), but the Yamaha is reverse polarity and the CASIO works as-is, which is important as I'm trying to keep the instructions simple. I'm waiting for a 1/4" jack mono extension cord to come in and I'll write up a thread how to do the mod so the pedal can be plugged and unplugged as needed externally. Total cost should be about $25 and it does require you to solder 2 wires.
Honestly Stern should just have a downward facing 1/4" jack on the underside front of the cabinet from here on out on all their Prem/LEs at the very least (BOM addition <$1) and then sell a branded Stern metal casing pedal for like $49.95.
Been playing the game with the pedal and it's night and day when that formerly accursed "charge the heat ray" callout happens. With the pedal? No problemo.
Casio pedal is here:
amazon.com link »

Is this a similar pedal that swinks is using for his ghotbusters proton mod, just curious.

#2528 2 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

I moved the weight on that proposition toward fun. I understand the theory. In practice, not fun as-is.
Fixed it.
(Same thing with the useless BK-SoR magna-save on the lockdown bar button no-mans-land. Pedal would fix it and bring back the fun.)

Makes sense on black night which was just bad design and stern being cheap , but on Godzilla you’re basically saying that the whole mechanic should be eliminated and it should be a single press activation. Not that you’re necessarily wrong in thinking that.

#2529 2 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Now that I've done it, sustain pedal is 100% the way to go for the center button on Godzilla (and probably BK:SoR, too). You have to be careful to get either a universal with switchable polarity or one that is OFF at rest and ON when pressed, or it won't work.
I used a CASIO SP-3 which is flimsier (plastic casing) than the Yamaha FC5 (metal casing), but the Yamaha is reverse polarity and the CASIO works as-is, which is important as I'm trying to keep the instructions simple. I'm waiting for a 1/4" jack mono extension cord to come in and I'll write up a thread how to do the mod so the pedal can be plugged and unplugged as needed externally. Total cost should be about $25 and it does require you to solder 2 wires.
Honestly Stern should just have a downward facing 1/4" jack on the underside front of the cabinet from here on out on all their Prem/LEs at the very least (BOM addition <$1) and then sell a branded Stern metal casing pedal for like $49.95.
Been playing the game with the pedal and it's night and day when that formerly accursed "charge the heat ray" callout happens. With the pedal? No problemo.
Casio pedal is here:
amazon.com link »

I found the left ramp hard to hit. So I just wired that switch up to a foot pedal too. I also put rubber bands on my outlines.

#2530 2 years ago

geez i hope godzilla wins a twippy award, lol

#2531 2 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Now that I've done it, sustain pedal is 100% the way to go for the center button on Godzilla (and probably BK:SoR, too). You have to be careful to get either a universal with switchable polarity or one that is OFF at rest and ON when pressed, or it won't work.
I used a CASIO SP-3 which is flimsier (plastic casing) than the Yamaha FC5 (metal casing), but the Yamaha is reverse polarity and the CASIO works as-is, which is important as I'm trying to keep the instructions simple. I'm waiting for a 1/4" jack mono extension cord to come in and I'll write up a thread how to do the mod so the pedal can be plugged and unplugged as needed externally. Total cost should be about $25 and it does require you to solder 2 wires.
Honestly Stern should just have a downward facing 1/4" jack on the underside front of the cabinet from here on out on all their Prem/LEs at the very least (BOM addition <$1) and then sell a branded Stern metal casing pedal for like $49.95.
Been playing the game with the pedal and it's night and day when that formerly accursed "charge the heat ray" callout happens. With the pedal? No problemo.
Casio pedal is here:
amazon.com link »

Ordered. Love this idea

#2532 2 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Fortunately I'm not coming to your house to forcibly do it to yours and open up your outlanes.
Maybe Keith can add a Track and Field-like pump option in the menu so I'm not just laying on the pedal when it comes time to charge during the game. That'd be even more fun and I have enough appendages to do all that at once.

Part of the reason for being so direct is that you are making mods that can significantly alter machines. From what I can tell you are having a very positive impact on these machines.

However if we start doing things that dramatically effect the original intent of the game designer and selling those things to the mass market, I’d just discourage that is all. Again, just my opinion so no need for another “fu” response.

#2533 2 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:Been playing the game with the pedal and it's night and day when that formerly accursed "charge the heat ray" callout happens. With the pedal? No problemo.

Sure… put rubbers over those outlanes too… no problemo!

#2534 2 years ago
Quoted from flynnibus:

Sure… put rubbers over those outlanes too… no problemo!

Yep there’s a reason why it needs to be charged rather than just press to activate (Boom button).

#2535 2 years ago
Quoted from rob3:

Part of the reason for being so direct is that you are making mods that can significantly alter machines. From what I can tell you are having a very positive impact on these machines.
However if we start doing things that dramatically effect the original intent of the game designer and selling those things to the mass market, I’d just discourage that is all. Again, just my opinion so no need for another “fu” response.

Dunno. For example, gold gathering on jjPotC IS fun, and that's repeatedly tapping the lockdown bar button. Almost the same thing on paper. Charging the heat ray? Not fun. And NO ONE can convince me that moving the magna save from a dedicated button on the side of the cabinet on prior BK's to the lockdown bar improved the game on BK:SoR. It made it SIGNIFICANTLY worse and had nothing to do with "intent" and everything to do with cost cutting.

If this makes the game more fun for people, and they want to buy the couple parts it takes and set it up for their machine, great. Because the heat ray charge aspect of it is not fun now and BK:SoR's magna save has been broken since day one using the lockdown bar for it. My opinion. Yours may be different. But I'm simply putting a how-to out there, not forcing anyone to to it.

#2536 2 years ago
Quoted from Lermods:

Is it possible the switch you unplugged wasn’t for the loop? Stern has been known to make connections incorrectly. I had ramp optos plugged in incorrectly on avengers. If you unplug it and go into switch test, does it still register?

I unplugged switch nr 58 (big loop enter), so that was correct. Kinda… because I followed your suggestion and smacked the playfield in switch test. Nothing registered, but when I pressed the left flipper button, it activate 3 switches: left, up left AND big loop exit. I don’t think that is supposed to happen. Big loop exit (nr 59) is an opto. When I roll a ball through it, nothing registers. But when I let it drop near the opto, I get a reaction in the swicht test. The vibration of the ball drop (or the vibration of the flippers? or smacking your fist (if there was enough space))) seem to activate the opto. Looks like it might be the same issue like you mentioned for you avengers.
So actually I disconnected a switch that didn’t gave an error. I have learned that the manual exists for a reason

#2537 2 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Dunno. For example, gold gathering on jjPotC IS fun, and that's repeatedly tapping the lockdown bar button. Almost the same thing on paper. Charging the heat ray? Not fun. And NO ONE can convince me that moving the magna save from a dedicated button on the side of the cabinet on prior BK's to the lockdown bar improved the game on BK:SoR. It made it SIGNIFICANTLY worse and had nothing to do with "intent" and everything to do with cost cutting.

Yes, but BKSOR is not Godzilla and the heat ray charging is about gameplay, not cost cutting. So you can drop BKSOR from your discussion - they are different beasts. If you were talking about adding a button to make BKSOR better, few would disagree with you. But here you are talking something entirely different.

#2538 2 years ago

I’m amazed at how many over inspect every inch of the gameplay so it suits them.
Just play!!!!!
Who says they’re all supposed to do everything perfectly with every ball? It’s pinball and to me it’s part of the fun.
No ball is the same.
I personally love some of the randomness making Godzilla special.
The ball just goes all over the place!!!! Fun

#2539 2 years ago
Quoted from flynnibus:

Yes, but BKSOR is not Godzilla and the heat ray charging is about gameplay, not cost cutting. So you can drop BKSOR from your discussion - they are different beasts. If you were talking about adding a button to make BKSOR better, few would disagree with you. But here you are talking something entirely different.

The pedal setup works for both (or any Spike machine with a lockdown button, really). No one is holding a gun to your head to do it. Don't like it? Don't do it. simple as that.

I'm almost done with the machine so I won't even have one shortly anyway, if you're concerned for my well being. But the instructions will be posted for anyone that wants to do it to make the game more enjoyable FOR THEM.

#2540 2 years ago

Check out this stall ball sk8ball

We were having problems with balls getting stuck on the return to the right inlane after about a week of play on the premium. There really wasn't play left to right for the habit trail, but I was able to push the slingshot plastic towards the center more to prevent the hang-ups in the hole. But we got issues like this too... this seems due to the small flat spots in the rails and the exit tear drop loop appears to be raised vs where the mounting tab is on the habittrail.

We tried to eliminate it by increasing the speed of the feed (bending the cross playfield section to be steeper), but I found the flat spots on the habit trail odd. Not sure if they are just clamp/vise artifacts or what. See it on both our games... but haven't had stall issues on our games before this.

IMG_1609 copy (resized).jpgIMG_1609 copy (resized).jpg

#2541 2 years ago
Quoted from jorge5240:

WTB an LE. Please let me know if you have one you are willing to part with.
Thanks,
Mike

Have extended the search to a premium.

#2542 2 years ago

Interesting stuck ball

2E0EDE60-9F71-417A-B57B-935316584F6B (resized).jpeg2E0EDE60-9F71-417A-B57B-935316584F6B (resized).jpeg
#2543 2 years ago

I put a good amount of time on Godzilla at the Houston show this weekend and I have to say...I think it might be the best value on any pro stern has put out comparative to the higher dollar models. It is FANTASTIC.

I am more of a "premium guy" for the most part, but this pro is packed!

#2544 2 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

The pedal setup works for both (or any Spike machine with a lockdown button, really). No one is holding a gun to your head to do it. Don't like it? Don't do it. simple as that.

But you're also suggesting Stern add wiring and a jack and a cabinet element TO EVERY GAME for an accommodation that goes AGAINST the game play design... in a world where Stern is eliminating washers on a game. It's comical.

Sell your mods for people who want them - but suggesting Stern build those plug and play into their games to fit those... bizarre.

14
#2545 2 years ago

Added him to the back right corner.

20211112_171902 (resized).jpg20211112_171902 (resized).jpg
#2546 2 years ago
Quoted from Palmer:

Lol it was a terrible movie. Bad story, good cast. I don’t care what most people think. A lot of people like bad movies.

Look up the definition of hyperbole. It was not a terrible movie. Plan 9 From Outer Space and Manos the Hands of Fate are terrible movies. Want to see terrible movies play EHOH. Stop exaggerating.

-1
#2547 2 years ago
Quoted from skink91:

It was horrible.

no it wasn’t. I still don’t know what people like you expect for a Godzilla movie. Go watch Godzilla’s Revenge and come back to me and say it’s still terrible.

#2548 2 years ago
Quoted from Daditude:

I put a good amount of time on Godzilla at the Houston show this weekend and I have to say...I think it might be the best value on any pro stern has put out comparative to the higher dollar models. It is FANTASTIC.
I am more of a "premium guy" for the most part, but this pro is packed!

The pro, like AIQ pro is amazing. Still a great buy and I am getting a pro. Liked the flow better and prefer the cabinet art more.

#2549 2 years ago
Quoted from flynnibus:

Check out this stall ball sk8ball
We were having problems with balls getting stuck on the return to the right inlane after about a week of play on the premium. There really wasn't play left to right for the habit trail, but I was able to push the slingshot plastic towards the center more to prevent the hang-ups in the hole. But we got issues like this too... this seems due to the small flat spots in the rails and the exit tear drop loop appears to be raised vs where the mounting tab is on the habittrail.
We tried to eliminate it by increasing the speed of the feed (bending the cross playfield section to be steeper), but I found the flat spots on the habit trail odd. Not sure if they are just clamp/vise artifacts or what. See it on both our games... but haven't had stall issues on our games before this.
[quoted image]

I've had similar on my AIQ several times... usually from a fast return that hits the end and bounces back slowly and settles without dropping.

#2550 2 years ago
Quoted from BallyKISS1978:

no it wasn’t. I still don’t know what people like you expect for a Godzilla movie. Go watch Godzilla’s Revenge and come back to me and say it’s still terrible.

All Monsters Attack is fantastic. Godzilla vs Kong sucked.

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Cabinet - Sound/Speakers
Gweem's Mods
Sound/Speakers
$ 35.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
ULEKstore
Toys/Add-ons
$ 7.95
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
ULEKstore
Toys/Add-ons
$ 15.00
Playfield - Protection
Chrome Candy
Protection
9,699
Machine - For Sale
Anaheim, CA
$ 29.99
Cabinet - Sound/Speakers
PR Mods
Sound/Speakers
Great pinball charity
Pinball Edu
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