(Topic ID: 300354)

Stern Godzilla Official Owners Club King Elwin

By beltking

2 years ago


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#25351 81 days ago
Quoted from Matsurigatzu:

After a game is over, sometimes I hear a loud baseball bat noise. Cannot tell if it’s from the speakers or inside the game. Anyone else have that?

You probably matched.

Edit- A match is when your last 2 numbers of your score matches what milla spits out is smoke at the end of the game.

#25352 81 days ago
Quoted from Matsurigatzu:

After a game is over, sometimes I hear a loud baseball bat noise. Cannot tell if it’s from the speakers or inside the game. Anyone else have that?

Did you match?

#25353 81 days ago
Quoted from Pablito350:

We saw the movie Sunday. It does not disappoint. I'm so glad we watched it while it is still out, this gz should be seen on the big screen!
Everyone says the human story is unlike any other for a Godzilla story. They are right! Open yourself up to empathy and you might shed a few tears at the end, even though you can see it coming from a mile away. I did wipe away a few tears.
All I know is if we didn't have a gz pin, I wouldn't know the classic theme, which is big in this, and made the watching so much better. Yes, I have seen gz movies before. It hits differently. If you know, you know.
There are a few questions, why didn't they do this, or do that? I'll say, "it's just a show, you should really just relax". It's such a wonderful ride.
If you can read, and no one's head is in your way to read easily (thanks weirdly tall guy in front of me), this a movie you should go see NOW!!
-Chrissi

Oddly enough, the only people in the theater were my wife and myself.

#25354 81 days ago
Quoted from Pablito350:

You probably matched.
Edit- A match is when your last 2 numbers of your score matches what milla spits out is smoke at the end of the game.

Yes it was when I matched but I don’t hear that loud noise every single time I match but it only appears when I match

#25355 81 days ago
Quoted from lftwng4:

Oddly enough, the only people in the theater were my wife and myself.

Same here just one other couple in the theatre granted the wife and I went to the first RPX/I-Max showing on Friday but I checked the rest of the weekend to see how many seats were sold during prime time Friday night, sat/Sunday and not many seats sold but according to box office mojo it ranked 3rd this weekend grossing almost 12 Mil domestically and 34 Mil world wide which is really good being they only spent 15 Mil to produce so already a success

#25356 81 days ago
Quoted from Matsurigatzu:

Yes it was when I matched but I don’t hear that loud noise every single time I match but it only appears when I match

In the olden days, pinball machines had a “knocker” in them - a solenoid and a mechanism that struck a plate to indicate a free game was earned.

You earned a free game on the match, but stern machines don’t come with a knocker, so you’re hearing a simulated knocker sound from the speakers. It sounds terrible at the default volume, but if you turn down the knocker volume, it’s not so bad.

#25357 81 days ago
Quoted from Matsurigatzu:

After a game is over, sometimes I hear a loud baseball bat noise. Cannot tell if it’s from the speakers or inside the game. Anyone else have that?

Sounds like the match replay fake knocker.

#25358 81 days ago
Quoted from scootss:

In the olden days, pinball machines had a “knocker” in them - a solenoid and a mechanism that struck a plate to indicate a free game was earned.
You earned a free game on the match, but stern machines don’t come with a knocker, so you’re hearing a simulated knocker sound from the speakers. It sounds terrible at the default volume, but if you turn down the knocker volume, it’s not so bad.

This makes total sense. I need to turn down the knocker volume for sure. My eardrums were going to explode
Thank you for explaining

#25359 81 days ago

Just paid my invoice for my topper I ordered in June! Pumped, hoping it arrives for the 12 days of Kaiju!

#25360 81 days ago
Quoted from lftwng4:

Oddly enough, the only people in the theater were my wife and myself.

Unfortunately, that is probably normal. Combo of factors here: probably the "what do you mean I got to read subtitles....screw that!" or "the film isn't even 'Merican."

#25361 81 days ago
Quoted from gandamack:

Unfortunately, that is probably normal. Combo of factors here: probably the "what do you mean I got to read subtitles....screw that!" or "the film isn't even 'Merican."

Well, I've been watching TV, sports, YouTube & download movies with closed captioning for the past several years!
Going with my 24 yr old son to see GZ-1 this weekend

#25362 81 days ago

Probably the knocker. If it is, can someone explain when to expect this?
The first time my knocker went off it scared the heck out of me, but i have only heard it maybe 3 times.

#25363 81 days ago

Ok Opto issues...

These are being manufactured POORLY and I got a bad one from Stern (the original that failed) and one from Pinball Life that did the same thing.

Looked at the solder joints on the opto LED reciever and transmitter, some monkey fisted dyke jockey had dyked the leades off AFTER soldering them, taking the mainstay of the solder filet with it, and leaving the most thin actual mechanical joint possible, one that will crack very easily. It also leaves two dis-similar metals exposed to air/moisture which will cause galvanic corrosion and cause the joint to fail early. Reflowing mine BEFORE installing them the first time solved my issues. But I actually added some more solder, and made sure the tip of my iron actually touched the LED lead and let it sit there a couple of seconds letting the joint stabilize and allow all the solder in the joint, including the solder on the oposite side of the board to liquify.

Since the masked dyker has cut most of the lead off, nearly to the surface of the circuit board, that leaves very little lead to form a proper filet, but do the best you can.

Just rember these US Navy soldering tips:

Did you clean it? Clean your solder, your iron tip, and the board and component leads with isopropyl alchohol and dry them off prior to heating up.

Use flux sparingly... flux oxidizes dirt, but too much causes problems too.

Solder flows from hot to hotter, if you want the solder to flow, you need to keep heat on the joint until it all liquifies, and it will travel towards the hottest thing. If that is the LED lead (because your tip is touching it) the solder will flow to both sides of the board. This makes sure it connects electically as well as mechanically.

CONCAVE FILETS ONLY... solder blobs can hide major defects.

Cut the leads PRIOR to soldering them. Measure the lead length past the board surface and make sure it sticks through just enough to create a good concave filet. Do not cut off the excess lead unleass you tin the exposed copper by hitting it with one last wave of the iron.

Did you clean it? Clean off all flux residue after you are finished. Flux causes oxidation, flux residue can eventually cause the joint to fail. Use isopropyl until all flux is gone.

These soldering tips brought to you by the US Navy and Bublehead, the original pinball submarine bubblehead.

#25364 81 days ago
Quoted from Bublehead:

Ok Opto issues...
These are being manufactured POORLY and I got a bad one from Stern (the original that failed) and one from Pinball Life that did the same thing.
Looked at the solder joints on the opto LED reciever and transmitter, some monkey fisted dyke jockey had dyked the leades off AFTER soldering them, taking the mainstay of the solder filet with it, and leaving the most thin actual mechanical joint possible, one that will crack very easily. It also leaves two dis-similar metals exposed to air/moisture which will cause galvanic corrosion and cause the joint to fail early. Reflowing mine BEFORE installing them the first time solved my issues. But I actually added some more solder, and made sure the tip of my iron actually touched the LED lead and let it sit there a couple of seconds letting the joint stabilize and allow all the solder in the joint, including the solder on the oposite side of the board to liquify.
Since the masked dyker has cut most of the lead off, nearly to the surface of the circuit board, that leaves very little lead to form a proper filet, but do the best you can.
Just rember these US Navy soldering tips:
Did you clean it? Clean your solder, your iron tip, and the board and component leads with isopropyl alchohol and dry them off prior to heating up.
Use flux sparingly... flux oxidizes dirt, but too much causes problems too.
Solder flows from hot to hotter, if you want the solder to flow, you need to keep heat on the joint until it all liquifies, and it will travel towards the hottest thing. If that is the LED lead (because your tip is touching it) the solder will flow to both sides of the board. This makes sure it connects electically as well as mechanically.
CONCAVE FILETS ONLY... solder blobs can hide major defects.
Cut the leads PRIOR to soldering them. Measure the lead length past the board surface and make sure it sticks through just enough to create a good concave filet. Do not cut off the excess lead unleass you tin the exposed copper by hitting it with one last wave of the iron.
Did you clean it? Clean off all flux residue after you are finished. Flux causes oxidation, flux residue can eventually cause the joint to fail. Use isopropyl until all flux is gone.
These soldering tips brought to you by the US Navy and Bublehead, the original pinball submarine bubblehead.

So are you playing Godzilla then?!?

#25365 81 days ago
Quoted from Matsurigatzu:

After a game is over, sometimes I hear a loud baseball bat noise. Cannot tell if it’s from the speakers or inside the game. Anyone else have that?

You probably had a match of the last 2 digits of your score and that is the free game knocker sounding off.

#25366 81 days ago
Quoted from Big_C_70092:

Probably the knocker. If it is, can someone explain when to expect this?
The first time my knocker went off it scared the heck out of me, but i have only heard it maybe 3 times.

Alternatively, it also knocks during gameplay when you reach the set replay score amount.

#25367 81 days ago

About 1100 games on my Nov '22 delivered Prem. Decided to swap out the coil stops as preventative maintenance. One was completely loose and in failure mode. One other stumped a bit but not too bad. The third was alright. Swapped them all anyways.

10
#25368 81 days ago
Quoted from Chambahz:

So are you playing Godzilla then?!?

Yep... lovin every minute of it...

#25369 81 days ago
Quoted from Bublehead:

Yep... lovin every minute of it...

I have given Stern a lot of crap over the years, and I'm not even a mega GZ fan, but this game is just great fun.

#25370 80 days ago
Quoted from Bublehead:

Yep... lovin every minute of it...

Excellent! Hope technical troubles are done. Wishing you good health, sir.
Enjoy the holidays.
Cheers,
Nicholas

#25371 80 days ago

I cannot find where it tells me what month and year my machine was made. Can someone point me in the right direction? I looked in the back of the machine

#25372 80 days ago
Quoted from Bublehead:

Ok Opto issues...
These are being manufactured POORLY and I got a bad one from Stern (the original that failed) and one from Pinball Life that did the same thing.
Looked at the solder joints on the opto LED reciever and transmitter, some monkey fisted dyke jockey had dyked the leades off AFTER soldering them, taking the mainstay of the solder filet with it, and leaving the most thin actual mechanical joint possible, one that will crack very easily. It also leaves two dis-similar metals exposed to air/moisture which will cause galvanic corrosion and cause the joint to fail early. Reflowing mine BEFORE installing them the first time solved my issues. But I actually added some more solder, and made sure the tip of my iron actually touched the LED lead and let it sit there a couple of seconds letting the joint stabilize and allow all the solder in the joint, including the solder on the oposite side of the board to liquify.
Since the masked dyker has cut most of the lead off, nearly to the surface of the circuit board, that leaves very little lead to form a proper filet, but do the best you can.
Just rember these US Navy soldering tips:
Did you clean it? Clean your solder, your iron tip, and the board and component leads with isopropyl alchohol and dry them off prior to heating up.
Use flux sparingly... flux oxidizes dirt, but too much causes problems too.
Solder flows from hot to hotter, if you want the solder to flow, you need to keep heat on the joint until it all liquifies, and it will travel towards the hottest thing. If that is the LED lead (because your tip is touching it) the solder will flow to both sides of the board. This makes sure it connects electically as well as mechanically.
CONCAVE FILETS ONLY... solder blobs can hide major defects.
Cut the leads PRIOR to soldering them. Measure the lead length past the board surface and make sure it sticks through just enough to create a good concave filet. Do not cut off the excess lead unleass you tin the exposed copper by hitting it with one last wave of the iron.
Did you clean it? Clean off all flux residue after you are finished. Flux causes oxidation, flux residue can eventually cause the joint to fail. Use isopropyl until all flux is gone.
These soldering tips brought to you by the US Navy and Bublehead, the original pinball submarine bubblehead.

My GZ right ramp exit opto did the same thing but mine was trigging randomly. Pulled opto emitter apart and one leg of the bulb had almost no solder on it. Wouldn't have seen it if I didn't think to remove the black 'T' shaped enclosure on the Opto PCB. Very poor quality control.

I'm glad you're up and running!

#25373 80 days ago

Went to play my Godzilla last night and on power up the shaker motor locked on and went crazy. Quickly turned it off. Tried one more time, same thing. I've unplugged the shaker motor for now from the node board on the left side of the cabinet. Any idea what's wrong? I assume a transistor blew? Anyone know which one if that's the case?

#25374 80 days ago
Quoted from Matsurigatzu:

I cannot find where it tells me what month and year my machine was made. Can someone point me in the right direction? I looked in the back of the machine

Look on the outside back of the machine, the side facing the wall. You should see something like this:

20231206_114624 (resized).jpg20231206_114624 (resized).jpg
#25375 80 days ago

I’m waiting on my Godzilla to show up maybe Friday. I pre ordered another set of optos so I have them on hand and can try re soldering them if need be. I’m super pumped and have a small pile of mods for it.

#25376 80 days ago
Quoted from junkyard:

I’m waiting on my Godzilla to show up maybe Friday. I pre ordered another set of optos so I have them on hand and can try re soldering them if need be. I’m super pumped and have a small pile of mods for it.

Goodness you shouldn't have to worry about that stuff before you get your game, warranty for a while yet.

#25377 80 days ago

I know a few dealers have them but just a heads-up that Marco has the factory Godzilla topper in stock (for the moment) for anyone interested. I got the in-stock notification about 20 minutes ago:

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/502-7145-00

#25378 80 days ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

I mean… you’re not wrong about conveniently timed events, unlikely sequences, and other things being in the movie that you’re characterizing as “flaws”. But that pretty much describes 90% of all movies.
Otherwise they’d be documentaries.
***Spoiler Alert in the post by jedimastermatt immediately below this post. Skip over it if you haven't seen the movie and don't want to know***

*Spoiler*

The nuclear bomb was one of the big US tests, which destroyed an island. There are good films on that history- like The Atomic Bomb Movie.

#25379 80 days ago

You guys that have the Street Ramp decal mod. Have you noticed any wear in the decals? Does it slow anything down?

I guess for $20 I can just pick up an extra pair

#25380 80 days ago

I’m having some issues after updating to 1.08 code. Sometimes after I lose a ball, it can take 5 to 10 seconds to kick a ball out to the shooter lane. Also, I started GZ multiball, but after loading each ball on the roof, the ball search kicked in and the building lowered and drained the ball. When MB started I only had one ball for a bit, but soon I had 5 balls going. Anyone else seen these issues? I don’t know if it’s due to code update or something else is going on.

#25381 80 days ago
Quoted from Matsurigatzu:

After a game is over, sometimes I hear a loud baseball bat noise. Cannot tell if it’s from the speakers or inside the game. Anyone else have that?

Sounds like the knocker. Terrible sound, “real knockers” (mechanical ones sound much better. There’s a few cases that cause knocker to happen (like getting a match at end of game, rolling over special when lit, etc), it’s an “old school” pinball feature but on modern machines is just a terrible sound. You can turn it off in settings. I have it off in all my games except for the one game that has a real knocker.

#25382 80 days ago

Can we PLEASE move the GZ movie discussion to another thread? All the spoilers being carelessly thrown about this thread are getting really annoying.

#25383 80 days ago
Quoted from nickrivers:

You guys that have the Street Ramp decal mod. Have you noticed any wear in the decals? Does it slow anything down?
I guess for $20 I can just pick up an extra pair

None whatsoever and no perceptible loss of velocity
20231206_151341 (resized).jpg20231206_151341 (resized).jpg

#25384 80 days ago
Quoted from JP76:

I’m having some issues after updating to 1.08 code. Sometimes after I lose a ball, it can take 5 to 10 seconds to kick a ball out to the shooter lane. Also, I started GZ multiball, but after loading each ball on the roof, the ball search kicked in and the building lowered and drained the ball. When MB started I only had one ball for a bit, but soon I had 5 balls going. Anyone else seen these issues? I don’t know if it’s due to code update or something else is going on.

Post 15771 helped me with the building optos not recognizing balls locked. It started out once in a while but got worse. This completely fixed it.

#25385 80 days ago
Quoted from Kkoss24:

Post 15771 helped me with the building optos not recognizing balls locked. It started out once in a while but got worse. This completely fixed it.

Here's the link to that post: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stern-godzilla-official-owners-club/page/316#post-7199283

#25386 80 days ago

Hi all, just got my Godzilla premium in the house 1 hour ago

I realized that the left flipper button has some sort of "step" to it. If I press it not all the way down, only the bottom flipper is activated. And I can feel a slight more resistance to press it all the way down to make the upper flipper activate. Is this expected? I don't remember how it feels in the arcade.

#25387 80 days ago

normal so You can flip one or both

#25388 80 days ago
Quoted from gnocchi_pesto:

Hi all, just got my Godzilla premium in the house 1 hour ago
I realized that the left flipper button has some sort of "step" to it. If I press it not all the way down, only the bottom flipper is activated. And I can feel a slight more resistance to press it all the way down to make the upper flipper activate. Is this expected? I don't remember how it feels in the arcade.

This is designed so that you can essentially cradle a ball during Multiballs and still shot another ball off the upper flipper; or shoot from the lower flipper without the upper flipper blocking the shot. Other opportunities as well.
Takes some practice, but when you need it, you need it.

#25389 80 days ago
Quoted from gnocchi_pesto:

Hi all, just got my Godzilla premium in the house 1 hour ago
I realized that the left flipper button has some sort of "step" to it. If I press it not all the way down, only the bottom flipper is activated. And I can feel a slight more resistance to press it all the way down to make the upper flipper activate. Is this expected? I don't remember how it feels in the arcade.

This may or may not help. My flipper button had a little flashing on it. I removed the button and smoothed the end that touches the leaf switch and that solved my issue.

#25390 80 days ago

My Plunger has sharp flashing on it. But I plan on replacing it anyway.

#25391 80 days ago
Quoted from northerndude:

Goodness you shouldn't have to worry about that stuff before you get your game, warranty for a while yet.

I was hoping it would cause me to not have the problem in the first place. I got all sorts of spare parts for stuff that I never need. You know because I have the parts on hand.

#25392 80 days ago
Quoted from gnocchi_pesto:

Hi all, just got my Godzilla premium in the house 1 hour ago
I realized that the left flipper button has some sort of "step" to it. If I press it not all the way down, only the bottom flipper is activated. And I can feel a slight more resistance to press it all the way down to make the upper flipper activate. Is this expected? I don't remember how it feels in the arcade.

Yes that's normal. There are 2 staged switches on the left side. The better players can use this to do what they call stage flipping so they can cradle the ball on the left and also lower the upper flipper to open up the left lane or take shot with upper flipper without using the bottom flipper.

#25393 80 days ago

Just wanted to share a photo of my super exclusive Godzilla topper that my girlfriend bought me. It only cost $20 at FYE and included cups, plates, and napkins for my birthday party.

IMG_9347 (resized).jpegIMG_9347 (resized).jpeg
#25394 80 days ago
Quoted from WillM:

None whatsoever and no perceptible loss of velocity
[quoted image]

Thanks for the reply my man! My anxious ass is still gonna order 2 sets

#25395 80 days ago

Man, it sucks seeing this post blow up with mostly issues and especially from first time buyers. My only game so far was a NIB Pro and I can only imagine what it feels like having issues on what should be a glorious day. And that's that I'm a woodworker/certified solderer. What hubris to advertise buying games for your home on Stern pins only to have a QC nightmare.

Hope all you dudes figure it out. Plenty of help on here.

#25396 80 days ago

I need to thank Mark Pearson for coming by and helping me fix my issues. We tackled the opto pretty quickly but then the building refused to work with the playfield down... as soon as we took it from any service position where we got it to work and lowered it into the cabinet, the building went to the top until building up switch was engaged and stopped moving altogether, with both up and down switches activated...

WTF?!?

Could not get the building to work at all. But in test, both swithches register separately, until you put the playfield down... then both active on.

Again, WTF?!?

While we were moving the playfield from vertical back to in the cab, I noticed the building down switch blink once and make the switch noise... I'm thinking, great, a harness problem, FML.

But wait! Lets think outside the box and, er, the cabinet... is something interfering with the f-ing down switch down in the cabinet?

Folks, look at your cable runs in the back of the cabinet and make sure they don't-

INTERFERE WITH THE F-ING BUILDING DOWN SWITCH...

That is all...

BH

#25397 80 days ago

I just got my GZ premium last Saturday morning, only had time to play a few games before I had to leave to the Uk for a work trip. In just the one hour or so of play, I found a handful of quality issues. I’ve been following this forum daily and have to say, I’m dreading having to deal with building optos and other stuff when I get home.

Stern - please fix your quality control!!! For a game you charge this much for, in a world where you see the business going to home use, and for a game you’ve made this many of (you’d think the November/December runs would be super polished by now) - your customers expect more from you on quality.

#25398 80 days ago
Quoted from nickrivers:

Man, it sucks seeing this post blow up with mostly issues and especially from first time buyers. My only game so far was a NIB Pro and I can only imagine what it feels like having issues on what should be a glorious day. And that's that I'm a woodworker/certified solderer. What hubris to advertise buying games for your home on Stern pins only to have a QC nightmare.
Hope all you dudes figure it out. Plenty of help on here.

Tend to agree, Stern quality certainly in the toilet at the moment. Definitely not the way to get buyers to return for future purchases.
Hell I don't buy Spooky games because I have never played one yet that doesn't fail.

#25399 80 days ago

Just to give everyone a update on my Building opto issues for my NIB Zilla, I received my new optos yesterday and replaced the receiver opto as this is what my troubleshooting concluded was the problem.. All is well now and the game works as it should.

Also, I want to say that the parts I received I ordered from Pinball Life and had overnighted. It cost me a pretty penny but the game had less than a few hours of play when it failed and the family really wanted to play this game. I did put a trouble ticket in with Stern and after a few emails back and forth the last correspondence yesterday from them was that the ticket has been submitted for replacement optos.

The sad part is that this is a NIB game and if I just waited for Stern for the replacement parts who knows how long it would take.. So opened my wallet and spent $100+ For optos and extra ones as well not to mention $50 bucks for overnight shipping since I have no clue how long it will take to get the parts from Stern themselves.

Also, I feel bad for anyone who bought this game that doesent read Pinside and doesnt have any clue about the issues and how to fix them. I am grateful for the information provided here because without this I too would have a much harder time trying to figure out the issue and get it resolved. So thanks to everyone who posted about these problems. You really saved me a bunch of time and gave me a good heads up one what to look for.

#25400 80 days ago
Quoted from tscottn:

So opened my wallet and spent $100+ For optos and extra ones as well not to mention $50 bucks for overnight shipping since I have no clue how long it will take to get the parts from Stern themselves.

This is exactly what I did, and the first reciever opto I put in from Pinball Life had the exact same issue as the original part from Stern that failed early. So be aware, this is a supplier issue plaguing Stern right now, and it all boils down to dyking off too much of the excess LED legs after they are soldered, basically shearing the solder joint in half, leading the solder joints to early failure due to vibration and shock. Get on it Stern or these parts will poison your manufacturing processes, on any opto using machine, which these days is all of them. Somebody needs to tackle the monkey fisted mystery dyker on the assembly line and teach then how to solder.

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