It's shill, not schill. And he's not swindling anyone so not sure why you call him that. Grow up dude.

Just got my tooper. What in the world are these Ferrites? These white magnetic clips. What do i do with them?

I guess since they sold out, Stern isn't too worried, but man, they should have hired you to do the reveal! Would have been much less bitching from the community!

I didn't really bitch about it, but I don't like it any more after seeing that and don't know why anyone's opinion would have changed.

It looks better in Zachs video but we're still getting a**f****d.

That’s pinball baby

For the playfield Godzilla I have the NECA godzilla. I like having the accurate Showa era Godzilla. I think the Atomic one, while resembling the playfield art,l is kind of a skinny little bitch who for some reason doesn't have eyeballs or teeth.

I don't know know what I want to do for the topper though. Do I buy a second NECA godzilla? I don't want the same thing in both places. So maybe if something else cool comes along for the playfield slot i'll move my Neca Godzilla up there (after updating the paint job to better match the machine)

Too expensive for my taste as well for what you get. Unfortunately, because I was entertaining getting it if it met my expectations of value.

My main point was that Stern's reveal was just a huge miss in my and I think others opinions since the topper didn't get its own video or even show any of the functionality of it.

I don’t know much about Godzilla. Was at a customers house today and saw this. Are these pretty common and easy to get?

IMG_7110 (resized).jpeg

Bought this on ebay yesterday for my topper, $14. It's close enuf for me.

Screenshot_20230608_142505_eBay (resized).jpg

Here is that same version, with added paint.

IMG_20230220_181830724 (resized).jpg

Nice!. I was planning on painting his back , but looks like I have more to do

So let me say this first: the topper is cool! However, I'm super bummed! I think that's the wizard mode challenge I was waiting for that Elwin was saying was coming! That's no goat mania, fml!

.

Why is a zip or line needed?

So I found out why my exit building switch (53) wasn’t working. Spent a day trying to fix my it so I thought I would share my findings so someone else doesn’t waste a whole lot of effort like me.
280182BA-FF70-44E1-9159-B5A0AB9F05C2 (resized).jpeg

1) micro switches do not fail that often. Press down on the switch, does it click? If so probably not the switch. My mistake ordered a new one, desoldered old, soldered on new one. Didn’t work. What I should have done is swap this with another switch location that was working to see that my original switch was good. Dumbass. So not the switch.

Here’s where things got worse

2) check connections - unplugged and replugged at switch end and node board 9, cn12. Still no good.

Ok so connection, harness or node board problem

3) check molex pin 4 at node board 9 cn12. Accidentally pulled out connector 4, it snapped.

4) check continuity with multimeter to determine if switch and common have a connected circuit. Here’s my next mistake. Checked from switch female molex plug to side of molex (broken) pin that connects to cn12. Got continuity on both switch circuit a common.

5) next big mistake jumped to conclusion must be node board. Swapped out deadpool node board 8 with gz board 9 since they are the same. Next stuff up- snapped off locking tab on one of the large power molex - worked out do not try to bend these suckers with screwdriver to ease out molex -they easily snap at base. Instead just start to pull one corner of large molex and just get small screwdriver underneath molex and ease out - the lock tab will not stop the molex from being removed this way. Also made the mistake of not changing the dip switches. 8 has a different setting to 9. So you can swap them but you need to set the switches first. So after getting deadpool a node board in Godzilla, switch still didn’t work.

6) check continuity right way - one lead of multimeter in switch molex female connector firstly for switch circuit to documented pin 4, next for common black lead to ground pin 10. BUT this time pull out board molex from cn12 just by a few millimetres. Check pin on board, so you are sneaking the multimeter rod under the molex connector and touching the pin thus testing the molex connection to the pin on board as well. I was not getting continuity to pin. In my earlier inspections I had snapped the molex connection inside for pin 4. Crimped on a new one, popped it back in housing. When crimping make sure the crimp is tight. If any of the tabs are a bit untidy they will not go back in the molex housing well. I just used needle nosed pliers and a lot of cursing. Also if it is still tricky getting crimped wire back into molex, check the bully bit at the end. Compressed too much and it won’t catch, uncoiled too much and it won’t go in at all. Just play with the little oval bit of metal until it slides easily into moles housing and clicks. So pin fixed, switch still doesn’t work.
03CBEF43-77EE-406E-85DC-9BA6E6E2D71E (resized).jpeg
7AD75450-1CDC-43DD-9AE6-208A6801329D (resized).jpeg
7) solution and lesson learned. The loss of connection to switch was actually a loose in-line molex connector at the switch end. Sigh. All I had to do was pull the 2 male pins toward each other so they had a good connection with the female counterpart. I did not have to buy a new switch, nor swap node boards, nor break the node board molex connector nor waste all of yesterday. If a switch fails, check switch in-line molex. Just thought I’d share. Don’t know if there’s a “what to check if switch fails” thread on pinside. Will check.
3B7C67E3-A4A2-4AEB-AB3B-6D856925B8D3 (resized).jpeg

DIAMOND SELECT TOYS Godzilla Classic 1989 Vinyl Figure Bank, Multi-Colored (JAN141921) https://a.co/d/5MYlieH

I painted one of these and put it in mine when I had it. After cutting it to fit of course.
Screenshot_20230608_195520_Amazon Shopping (resized).jpg

Looks great! Would you mind sharing how you did it?

That looks REALLY good.

For anyone who would like to see the new topper mode “King of the Monsters Time Attack” in action, here is a link to 44.40 in the video:

I'm having a bit of a problem with my premium building VUK as the ball is getting stuck in the gap and I often have to shake it free. I've been living with it because I've learned to shake it loose pretty easily but I had a Rodan/MZ combo I was trying to get to and tilted it.

Damn it, time to fix it.

I've seen the washer solution in detail from this post (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stern-godzilla-official-owners-club/page/316#post-7199283) but I was hoping to just do the credit card trick. Does anyone have specific words of wisdom or pictures of what you're doing to fix it before I dig in there?

I'm guessing you're putting the business card in just enough to cover that gap so when the ball is on the card it bends a little and then sticks out so the ball can't bounce back into that gap, yet also not get into the way of the VUK. Sound right?

I wonder if Stern was going for these old Godzilla neon lamps from the 80s when designing the topper. Last time I was in Maui a few back I saw one for sale in an art gallery. The concept is there.

IMG_8618 (resized).jpegIMG_8619 (resized).jpegIMG_8620 (resized).jpegIMG_8621 (resized).jpeg

Thanks,seems like there's never a shortage of these guys around. I have painted three different versions for my machine. As well as a handful for fellow pinsiders, check out this post from the Godzilla mod thread from about a year ago, https://pinside.com/pinball/community/pinsiders/apinjunkie
It's a different version of the Godzilla but the same paints and techniques are used.

IMG_20230314_111241633 (resized).jpg

I used a business card that was laying around.
IMG_20230417_131047508 (resized).jpg

Thanks for putting the time for the post. I bookmarked it.

Can someone please tell me how to access the 'King of the Monsters Time Attack' mode directly? Or is it even possible?

Does anybody have a problem with the building catching/scraping on wire forms and the plastics protectors when it's going up and down. Everything seems tight underneath.

Building seems to be leaning forward a bit from when I first got it.

I have been looking for this in the forum but only can find the discussions on height adjustments not back and forth.

Same way you access juke box. Hold right flipper button (or both). Must have topper installed.

Man that's cool. I'm sure Stern can make almost anything they want. I would love it to look like that. I just don't understand.

Case in point I think the Deadpool topper is ok. I have it but I wish it had Little Deadpool riding a spinning embedded disco ball with crazy lights.

At a G note I think they can put a little more into it. Just my thoughts? Yours?

When I do that, I just get the choices of 'standard', 'competition' and 'DJ Mixer'. I do have the topper installed.

What am I missing?

It's disappointing that the topper mode is the same as the KOTM, but timed.

You're not really even getting access to some special mode. Just a shortcut basically. They should have that available for all and added a brand new mode for the topper.

At least with goat mania in JP, that wasn't in the game before.

Maybe a code update is needed? Flip n out video mentioned that they were playing on beta code.

Thank you! I just a piece of thin (but sturdy) cardboard to implement that fix and it has worked like a champ so far. First game on it I just put up 2B. For whatever reason I think that was stressing me out a little every time I shot a lock.

It's not out yet.

Thanks!

A clear elastic (silicone?) band that manufacturers use to hold action figures (and other toys) in their protective plastic could probably work. They’re very thin and nearly invisible, especially from a distance. If you could find one with roughly the same diameter, that is. They are used frequently in the toy industry, on toys that are roughly the same scale as the sculpt on that topper. The clear plastic twist ties that come in those same sort of toy containers could also work. A zip tie is much easier to source and less money though.

Hey thanks!
If my stuff ups help others than it’s not so bad!

If that is what they were going for they fell quite short. That looks pretty cool.

are those 2 screws not enough to hold Him in place ?

Think it’s to stop the Tail Whip…….

The NECA figure I swapped into my game is only held in place with the two screws, and that's on the playfield with shaker on Max. No issue at all.

On a Pro, I have an issue with my left slingshot where it fires at random during gameplay. There are a few hundred plays on the machine, and this just started happening all of a sudden. At first I thought it might be vibration related either during nudging or caused by the shaker motor, but it is happening at random even when I am cradling the ball on a flipper.
Any thoughts on how to troubleshoot?

check keypost #3567

it will shake 10X more on top of a backbox..just sayin and not sprayin. better to have it secure and not break (anyone's) pricey topper, unless you live on the wild side, lol.