I love it! It just makes you cuss and then laugh. Quite shocking. I put Barbie legs under mine

Got my pinball-mods.com clear bumper
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It's pinball baby

Now get rid of all that black rubber and put clear or translucent in it, you'll thank yourself. The black puts a lot of extra black residue into game.

EDIT - by bad, I see the green in the slings

I’m with you Cheeks. Not having long ball times at all. Guess I have to make more adjustments.
To those saying you are at 6.8, where do you have 6.8, between the flippers or at the top of the playfield?
And yes I agree, the deeper you get in the game you do get extra balls, but still for me they don’t last long.

I got hammered on this game about 300 rounds before i really started getting anywhere.

Does it?

Excellent, WTF is exactly what I was going for. The hot tub roof top is held in place with magnets and can be easily swapped with a more conservative one, complete with goat, intended as a nod to diddy's original design. I like to start with the goat rooftop and then swap it out after an hour gameplay when a newbie goes to the bathroom just to goof on them.
I was snowed in for 3 days straight over the winter.

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No, no problems like that at all. Just be careful with the scissors that you don't damage the machine.

A lot of talk about playfield protectors.

I've never played one, so can't comment on it, but I think the idea of it is cool to protect the playfield.

It'd be nice if there were a way to also stop the dust from getting down underneath them. Maybe a small silicone seal around all the holes in the protector and it's edges? Then when it's installed, dust can't permeate through.

Also, all playfields are shot with a coat of clear coat to protect them. Anyone ever take a protector and shoot a coat of clear over it before installing it? I think if you cleared it, it would then have the same playing feel, ball movement and friction properties as the playfield would.

I wish I still worked at my old automotive paint place and could do this. Shooting a coat of clear would literally take only 2 minutes.

Thoughts?

Never. Cannot seal it in. Cant do any of those things. Put in on and play it, or don't are the only options.

Clean you playfield with some consistency, never introduce a silicone based product to it. I like carnuba wax from mothers. Light coat after every couple cleanings or wipe downs

I don't like how the playfield protectors play, they look good, but the play is all wrong.

Afternoon everyone, came across a potential issue that I’ve never seen before….

My Pro’s shooter doesn’t seem to hardly hit the ball and only on a full plunge. If it’s anything less, the ball doesn’t get hit and sometimes the shooter makes the auto plunge mechanism hit the ball. The ball rests on the auto plunge mech, see pic, which I didn’t ever notice before on the Premium I had.

Thanks for any and all help.

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It’s normal to rest on the forks like that but it looks like your shooter rod isn’t centered on the ball. I’d start there and see if you can get that centered up. Your playfield might have some side to side play that you can move to center it. Other than that, there’s a few adjustments you can make to the rod to bring the rubber tip closer to the ball as well (playing with removing washers, different spring tensions, adding some spacers inside the rubber tip, etc).

info, tech, and all that jazz in the "Key Posts" on top, expand them

No disrespect but really? a protector for the protector? As I believe others have said, in an HUO environment with proper care (waxing at prescribed intervals, changing out balls at prescribed intervals) there will be minimal wear to the playfield clearcoat hence no need for the time and expense of a protector that ends up looking like crap (i.e., hazy) after 100s of plays.

Thanks for the help, will see if anything looks out of the ordinary and will play with the springs and washers.

Thanks and will do. Usually I check first but was in a rush to make dinner and figured I’d do a quick post.

If there’s a washer outside the cabinet on the shooter rod remove it and that will help slightly move it forward.

Using a stronger spring inside the cabinet can help make up for it a bit also.

Main issue with yours could be the length of the spring outside the cabinet. Seems like some of those can be a bit too long lately. I just got 2 of these from PinballLife to correct for the same issue you’re having.

https://www.pinballlife.com/ball-shooter-plunger-barrel-spring-075-long.html

I got one of those for Xmas. I love it, so does the wife. Yeah, kind of unnecessary for the bottom half, but hey, like people are saying, gotta put the other half somewhere. I show people when they come over to play and they get a kick out of it. Always say poor Mechagodzilla.....

I get what you guys are saying with cleaning and waxing your playfields. That's a given and not my point. I just had the idea hit me of what if you sprayed a coat of clear on it. I wondered how it would play. Not to protect the protector. Lol

As for the Silicone, I was thinking of a small silicone ring that would stick onto the protector at every hole and edge. Then when it's placed on the playfield, it would create a dust free barrier between the protector and the pf. It doesn't stick to the ppayfield, just rests on top of it and creates a seal.

Again, these were just thoughts, ideas and what ifs.

Just did this and it really made a difference. Much more smooth with less rattle which allows the ball to make up the ramp completely.

I have a question on a tweak. My saucer seems slightly out of line. The base looks like its right however, middle skirt seems to stick out towards the middle of the playfield. I can't see how I can realign this. I tried shifting the bracket under the playfield, but this really doesn't move much.

The problem here is the scoop shot. a forehand from the left flipper just hits this skirt and deflects. The margin of making the scoop is just so tight. Maybe that's the way it is supposed to be, but from my pic, you can see that everything does not stack up nicely.

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Hey again, Eddie!
I ran into this exact same problem when I was trying to fix the rattle-y shooter. I did a comparison across the 3 Sterns I had in my garage, you can see the pic here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stern-godzilla-official-owners-club/page/284#post-7095107

The solution was as mentioned above: getting a shorter exterior barrel spring. Stern sent me a proper one, if I recall correctly.
You can see my measurement of that spring a few posts after the above link. It was the only meaningful physical difference between the 3 Sterns I had.

Good luck!

Its not a fix, the gate isn't broken. Game was designed this way, play it as it lies or play better.

Incorrect. Mine could hit the gate and it stilll wouldn’t trigger it from time to time, they are toys, do what you want with them. Who cares?

Exactly what my play it as it lies statement meant... you play it as it is and not worry about it. You seem to care more if something doesn't work as you think it should. So going back to your question... who cares? You do.

What are your settings for free game (extra ball)? automatic? Fixed? And how many per game?
My settings:
Only 1 free game at 500

I once bought a game with a PF protector already installed. The sound and gameplay was noticeably different. The ball always seemed to be skidding a bit. There was also a ton of static electricity. I’d get dust or little debris under the protector and you obviously can’t clean it. I was nervous how the static electricity could affect the node boards.

Once I removed the protector I found that there were a couple of sunken inserts. The guy put the protector on to smooth out the playfield. That being said I will never buy a game that has a PF protector installed.

I wouldn't say it's a disqualifier for me, but i don't like them and would remove it.

What's interesting is there's a pinside poll in another thread on pf protectors and it was about 50/50. Regardless, they absolutely alter the dynamics of ball friction, that's just a fact, like science. But whether you mind (or notice) the difference is obviously a matter of personal opinion.

I have to say that the pen-spring idea is good, though I'm too lazy to do it. I don't know if it works, but when I miss the imposter battle because of the prostitute-sized gap, I frown but move on. NBD.

The two things that actually annoy me about this game are:

1- That damn flat spot at the top. Have to tilt to get it back and lose everything. DAMN YOU!!

2- The impotent plunger. No fix has worked for me. I have just been playing knowing I rarely can get a good skill shot.

Both of these problems suck.

But this game is fun as hell and I love it. I deal with the problems just like I eat my wife asparagus.

I would really love for someone to come up with a plunger shooter rod that is FAR more adjustable, like by 1 or 2 inches at least so it can be really dialed in, combo of barrel spring lengths and washers, etc.

What would be better is a longer rod that you can make shorter with longer barrel springs and washers.

RM

Just adjust the switch on the spinner so that even a slow rolling ball registers. No pen spring or frown required.

The gate AND the spinner both count for the award.

I removed the scoop protector and it made a difference in rejects. I put some mylar around the scoop instead. It is easy enough to reinstall it if necessary.

Pro tip - turn on the setting for coin door Open ball save. When it get stuck up there open coin door. Shake the hell out of machine to jiggle ball loose, it will drain, close coin door, ball will pop into shooter Lane and auto launch.

OK - I lowered my pitch and had an unusually good game (for me).

However, I have a MAJOR pitch difference at the flippers vs. at the building. With a digital level, I get 6.4 at the flippers, 6.8 in the middle, and 7.2 at the building. This seems like a huge differential.

I have never seen that kind of differential on a playfield.

Either the level is not sitting flat for some reason or your playfield has a serious warp in it.

RM

It’s hard to imagine the wood could be that warped with metal rails on each side

Also you don't even have to change the setting. You can push the trough eject coil by hand to pop another ball into the shooter lane.

My God, it's full of stars..

Starting test run of topper; probably take 2-3 weeks. This will epoxy onto plexiglass-glass which will have magnetic strips to hold in place. Hole through plexiglass-glass up through bottom of neck with LED usb (still need to research correct one to buy) eyes will have blue somewhat opaque material hot glued from inside.

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I need a picture of the underside of playfield, the left sling leaf switches please. I have a broken, dual black and green (ground) wire that the manual says belongs to leaf switch, but i am unsure where to solder, i can see no obivious space where it fell off.. Woudl help me if you can post pic for me so i can solder with no damage. Thank you.

Thank you all for the pictures of the sling wiring.. I have it fixed!!

Looks pretty sweet…and I’m not a topper guy

Thanks. If it works I might upload stls for free.

Best I could do from a video I have.

Looks pretty cool - will the rest of his body be inside the backbox?