Valley Forge, PA
I have a February 23 build and same for me. Shortened plastic but the bridge was slightly hitting and marked the plastic after 11 games or so. Two washers in the coil and all is good.
(Topic ID: 300354)
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I have the original longer plastic piece and it’s still intact. Mine is an Oct.2022 build and I noticed marks on the edge from bridge contact early on. I did add two washers to the base of the coil plunger and it’s been smooth sailing since then. One washer still had contact on my machine, but there’s a long path (linkage, tolerances, slop on the pins, etc) between the coil and the parts that actually make contact. Two washers seemed to fix it and my original long plastic looks the same as it did when I put the washers in.
If you do add the washers, be sure to check and confirm that the ball can drop through the collapsed bridge opening as intended. It’s definitely possible to put too much in the coil to where the ball can’t drop freely through.
Québec, QC
Quoted from Scotty_K:I can confirm this. My Pre is a November build, and it has the shortened plastic. It started to show marks after only 3 plays, so I did the washer-in-the-coil fix, and it's been good as gold ever since.
Where do we put the washer? Over or under the playfield?
Quoted from acedanger:Yes totally normal.
Quoted from Holy_Pickle:What is washer-in-the-coil-fix?
takes up some space to limit the throw of the linkage to prevent bridge from contacting plastic when actuated. Couple of washers in teh coil sleeve.. thats it.
Quoted from Holy_Pickle:Where do we put the washer? Over or under the playfield?
Key posts.
73A32019-41E5-4760-809A-25DC2E2C455D (resized).jpegQuoted from Markharris2000:OK, I'm finally in... and it only took FEDEX two weeks to get it to me (with just a little box damage, right under where the head folds down.)[quoted image]
Gorillas damaged my LE. They said we can ship it back. I said no I will live with that nick. Thought I could buy side art from Stern and was in talks with them, then nothing.
Quoted from gamera9:Gorillas damaged my LE. They said we can ship it back. I said no I will live with that nick. Thought I could buy side art from Stern and was in talks with them, then nothing.
They nicked up my Pro as well. Finally after about 6 months I got my replacement cabinet decal from Stern
Quoted from Bohdi:They nicked up my Pro as well. Finally after about 6 months I got my replacement cabinet decal from Stern
Now you just need to spend a whole weekend to prep and replace the decal.... uggg!
Got my hands on an original Bandai GZ Oxygen Destroyer 'paperweight' which is perfectly sized for addition to the game. It's made of metallic machined parts, steel and brass, glass and has extreme tiny detail on all parts. Ordered some SMD green strip LEDs to mount underneath it once I have my GZ dialed-in.
GZ-OXD (resized).pngQuoted from Markharris2000:Now you just need to spend a whole weekend to prep and replace the decal.... uggg!
I want my LE decal to have the art to frame and put on the wall. Doubt I would ever put on the game
Quoted from Markharris2000:Now you just need to spend a whole weekend to prep and replace the decal.... uggg!
Doubt I'll actually install it. Can barely even notice it. Really can't unless you know where it is. Might make some wall art out of it?
Quoted from Pinballpal:Ok cool so I wonder why mine is not behaving this way.
The washers I had installed to stop the bridge from cracking the plastic under neath the bridge were causing the bridge to not stay collapsed when it is exposed to. I can only have one washer in the coil stop any more and the bridge does not stay collapsed.
So any one using the washer fix make sure your bridge is working correctly. It is really cool to see the bridge collapsed when super jackpot is lit 
Quoted from math08:I was using 2 washers and I have not seen my bridge stay open. Just went to one. Will see if that makes a difference.
I'm using 2 washers as well and my bridge only opens to drop the ball then closes again. Let me know if that changes but when I had 1 washer it was still hitting the plastic.
Quoted from Hayfarmer:I really like Doug's flaming frames...[quoted image][quoted image]
Yeah I'm still waiting on mine. I ordered back in November, so I hope I'll see it soon. His stuff is terrific!
Quoted from Scotty_K:Yeah I'm still waiting on mine. I ordered back in November, so I hope I'll see it soon. His stuff is terrific!
Worth the wait, you'll be glad
Quoted from math08:Just had a good game, 754,000,000 and the bridge did not stay open during the game. I think the bridge was hitting slightly so I may go back to two washers.
The bridge only stays open when you have super jackpot lit when playing bridge multiball and I think maybe one other time (I will have to check iepinballs stream) Try it with no washers with the glass off and light bridge super jack pot and your bridge should fall and stay open. Great effect when it happens. I only have one washer in mine and it might be enough to save the plastic if not I will just have to upgrade to the metal version of the plastic. That bridge effect is to cool to give up
I wasn't having luck with the superglue I had on hand. I would recommend a quick setting kind if you go that route. I went with a clear zip tie and you can't notice it from player perspective unless you focus in on it and the just barely,you could always paint it grey if it bothers you.
20230323_195046 (resized).jpg20230323_195101 (resized).jpg20230323_195107 (resized).jpgQuoted from Pinballpal:The bridge only stays open when you have super jackpot lit when playing bridge multiball and I think maybe one other time (I will have to check iepinballs stream) Try it with no washers with the glass off and light bridge super jack pot and your bridge should fall and stay open. Great effect when it happens. I only have one washer in mine and it might be enough to save the plastic if not I will just have to upgrade to the metal version of the plastic. That bridge effect is to cool to give up
I don’t understand why the bridge wouldn’t stay open with more than one washer. Isn’t it a matter of the coil staying energized? The washer just limits how much the plunger in the coil moves, but if the coil stays energized, shouldn’t it hold it in that position.
Quoted from Puffdanny:I wasn't having luck with the superglue I had on hand. I would recommend a quick setting kind if you go that route. I went with a clear zip tie and you can't notice it from player perspective unless you focus in on it and the just barely,you could always paint it grey if it bothers you.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
That looks pretty good! You could weather it a bit to get it to disappear into the design; good work
Quoted from Pinballpal:The bridge only stays open when you have super jackpot lit when playing bridge multiball and I think maybe one other time (I will have to check iepinballs stream) Try it with no washers with the glass off and light bridge super jack pot and your bridge should fall and stay open. Great effect when it happens. I only have one washer in mine and it might be enough to save the plastic if not I will just have to upgrade to the metal version of the plastic. That bridge effect is to cool to give up
I didn't realize this was only with the bridge super jack pot, which I do not believe I got during this game. Will try without the glass. I also don't understand why the amount of washers should affect the bridge staying open. As said above, the bridge should stay open if the coil stays energized unless I am totally off the mark on how the bridge opens. I had not thought this through.
Quoted from Apinjunkie:I've found that the bridge works best... When you place an animated Godzilla behind it.
ok take my money.. where is the list?
Quoted from Apinjunkie:I've found that the bridge works best... When you place an animated Godzilla behind it.
I think I would be in on this depending on price
Quoted from Baggerman:ok take my money.. where is the list?
I just put this in this week, and I'm loving it! See this post for some more details. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stern-godzilla-mod-thread/page/78#post-7484958
Quoted from math08:I didn't realize this was only with the bridge super jack pot, which I do not believe I got during this game. Will try without the glass. I also don't understand why the amount of washers should affect the bridge staying open. As said above, the bridge should stay open if the coil stays energized unless I am totally off the mark on how the bridge opens. I had not thought this through.
That is exactly what I thought as well but after I found out their is not a switch their that tells the bridge that is down. The only thing I could think of is to remove the washers then it worked. I think the game does not hold the bridge down with washers because their is not enough of the metal arm in the coil to hold the bridge down.
Anyway try it without any washers and it will hold the bridge down and it is a great effect.
Just replace the plastic with a metal version if your plastic breaks.
Quoted from Pinballpal:That is exactly what I thought as well but after I found out their is not a switch their that tells the bridge that is down. The only thing I could think of is to remove the washers then it worked. I think the game does not hold the bridge down with washers because their is not enough of the metal arm in the coil to hold the bridge down.
Anyway try it without any washers and it will hold the bridge down and it is a great effect.
Just replace the plastic with a metal version if your plastic breaks.
I removed the washer, placed a Scotch Bumper on the magnetic spinner and everything works great. The bridge now stays open, and nothing hits the plastic.
Quoted from math08:I removed the washer, placed a Scotch Bumper on the magnetic spinner and everything works great. The bridge now stays open, and nothing hits the plastic.
mines been working great and plastic is fine after 1 1/2 years with the Dot
My premium is on order and I have begun collecting the mods I have been working on going through the 400 pages of threads to find the must have mods - but can anyone tell me their personal list? I have the tokyo signs and Lolly UFO mods from Stumblor
Quoted from toro1966:My premium is on order and I have begun collecting the mods I have been working on going through the 400 pages of threads to find the must have mods - but can anyone tell me their personal list? I have the tokyo signs and Lolly UFO mods from Stumblor
The only mod I would put on the playfield is Atomic Godzilla. And the stern art blades. That’s just me. Other than that must haves are shaker, invisiglass, speaker upgrade.
Quoted from jackd104:The only mod I would put on the playfield is Atomic Godzilla. That’s just me. Other than that must haves are shaker, invisiglass, speaker upgrade.
Thanks! Fair enough. I am definitely a modding kind of guy. Where do you find the Atomic Godzilla? I will search of course, but figured I'd push the easy button.
Quoted from toro1966:Thanks! Fair enough. I am definitely a modding kind of guy. Where do you find the Atomic Godzilla? I will search of course, but figured I'd push the easy button.
Get in the list at this thread. Videos etc to.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/godzilla-atomic-godzilla-figure-mod#post-7234340
Quoted from jackd104:Get in the list at this thread. Videos etc to.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/godzilla-atomic-godzilla-figure-mod#post-7234340
Thanks, just did!
Quoted from toro1966:Thanks! Fair enough. I am definitely a modding kind of guy. Where do you find the Atomic Godzilla? I will search of course, but figured I'd push the easy button.
Check out the Godzilla mod thread here on pinside, lots of great mods to inspire.https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stern-godzilla-mod-thread
Quoted from Apinjunkie:I've found that the bridge works best... When you place an animated Godzilla behind it.
Appreciate the ingenuity he brought with that mod, but as stated elsewhere he had to source an incorrect Millennium Era Godzilla figure to make it work. The sculpt of the face, body & spines just doesn't work IMO for this Showa Era themed game, but I appreciate the design & all the effort that went into it. Buyers probably won't care, since it's cool to see it in action.
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:Appreciate the ingenuity he brought with that mod, but as stated elsewhere he had to source an incorrect Millennium Era Godzilla figure to make it work. The sculpt of the face, body & spines just doesn't work IMO for this Showa Era themed game, but I appreciate the design & all the effort that went into it. Buyers probably won't care, since it's cool to see it in action.
All valid points and I agree. When I saw his offering I thought... If I trimmed back the spines and reworked the sculpt with some modeling compound and a repaint this might just work. I'm digging it.
IMG_20230301_153732685 (resized).jpgIMG_20230304_123344076 (resized).jpgIMG_20230305_152135790 (resized).jpgIMG_20230306_111017227 (resized).jpgQuoted from DCfoodfreak:It’s a good day !
[quoted image]
Hello Baby
Quoted from Puffdanny:I wasn't having luck with the superglue I had on hand. I would recommend a quick setting kind if you go that route. I went with a clear zip tie and you can't notice it from player perspective unless you focus in on it and the just barely,you could always paint it grey if it bothers you.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
A lot of people misunderstand super glue. It doesn't stick until it starts to dry. So If you use too much, you'll have to hold it together for a lot longer. A very thin layer on both sides being adhered works best.
Quoted from Rarehero:Question - I can get about 4 or 5 loops on the upper flipper, but then it usually goes too fast & ricochets a bit on the way around, skipping past the upper flipper and ruining my combo. This happening to anyone else? I’m guessing it’s common, but maybe I need to look at my ball guide or dial down the upper flipper strength or something.
I have only just got my Godzilla nd mine is doing the same after 2 loops.
Any fixes for this yet?
Quoted from Chambahz:On mine, a partial right ramp is extremely likely to SDTM. If the ball makes it most of the way up, it’s usually a much more forgiving outcome.
I put a small rubber at the bottom right of the ramp so it hits the rubber and doesnt go SDTM.
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