The magna grab magnet was loose and spinning on an LE. After I tightened it, my magna grab performance deteriorated significantly.

From Stern, the magnet cylinder on a Godzilla is NOT supposed to spin. It’s supposed to be solidly screwed in place.

Mine is loose and kept it that way when I replaced it recently.

I'm confused, and having issues with our game. Is the magnet supposed to be tight? And yours plays fine loose? Mine spins freely, with about 1/4" up and down play. Why did you need to replace?

I guess I need to run a test to watch the magnet, I haven't done that yet

Something weird is happening with the rescaling. Set the dropdown to "no rescaling" and it should work.

Mine spins about a half inch, side to side....off of a magna-grab. I think it is supposed to move because timing the release off a magna-grab is the challenge, correct? But, off a destruction jackpot the magnet is stationary.

Stern tech support says it supposed to be tight. No movement. Mine spins freely with a little up/down movement and plays great. I replaced it due to wear though didn’t really need to. It still worked fine.

The post in the middle is not supposed to move. The magnet around it, doesn't matter if it moves.

Use some Loctite 243 on the magnet screw and it wont get loose anymore.
It's true that the magnet shouldn't spin. However, I din't saw a difference in performance.

I'm baffled how anyone would think anything like that is supposed to be loose. It will eat anything above or below it over time. Not Stern's intent. TIGHTEN IT if you value your clearcoat.

Hey guys,
Quick question,
Family members came over last weekend and played godzilla as usual. Their comment was the game feels slow now and i must agree(i barely played within the last months) They had hard time getting the ball into the ramps.

I recently leveled the game with a digital meter, if i recall around 7.8

Game has roughly 500 plays, original balls and never waxed other then small novus clean up.

What do you recommend? Thx

Check the coil stops, clean the game, replace the balls, make the pitch so the bubble is touching the top line or just past it.

7.8? Should be around 6.5 - 7

There's your problem chief..

Ditto 7.8 is a bit much

7.8? Dang! Your ball needs ropes, carabiners, and ice-shoes to get up the ramps!

On my premium, the magnagrab post would spin, even with the screw fully tightened.

In my case, the screw was bottoming out and simply would not tighten any further.

I ended up putting a small washer on the screw which allowed it to tighten properly and lock down the magnagrab cylinder.

To be honest, I saw no change in performance.

Putting in a little PBL order right now. Are the coil sleeves and stops the same for the upper flipper vs the lowers?

Picking up my GZ premium armor from the powder coat shop today! Super excited!!

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Yes - they are the same.

lol, i guess, i will verify the level tonight,

im in doubt now

Thanks

I'm surprised that by 1.04 code there are still some animations that you can't skip, especially with so many timed modes. Off the top of my head, jets and telsa still can't be skipped like the rest of the on-screen stuff. I've missed quite a few imposter shots and battle shots because the ball was struck on the magna-grab during an unskippable animation.

Stern, let us skip all on-screen content, for the sake of game flow!

I think the real answer is that the timers should pause. Though I would really like to skip the city bonus after changing cities. Like I get it, move on.

The Mothra shooter is definitely weaker than the standard one. I took all of the hardware (springs, washers, lock ring and tip) off of my standard shooter and put it on the Mothra shooter. Now the new shooter is as strong as the stock one was. I understand that the green-marked springs should all be the same, but there is definitely a difference because this solved my shooter issue.

zh2oson Somehow I missed this earlier. Thank you for the kind words and I’m really happy you love them. I’m super proud of them and think they should be in every toolbox. Just makes life so much easier.

The part that spins doesn’t touch the clear coat. It’s not an issue, and the performance is the same. Honestly, spinning is probably a good thing as it evens out the natural wear of the ball hitting it, though that may be negligible regardless.

Base coat is Ink black. Top coats called "Gojira" from prismaticpowders.com. In low light it almost appears black, but when light hits it, it's a very high metallic color shifting type deal. Lots of green with some gold thrown in. Super happy with the results.

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Stunning!

So I just got my Premium in FINALLY I have a tech question for everyone. When my building goes down and start multiball it makes a pretty terrible noise, it sounds like maybe the belt is getting caught. Once I hit the building with the next ball it seems to work fine. Does anyone have an idea as to what I could adjust? Frustrating that I am having out of the box issues but I know this stuff happens.

Lift the playfield and make sure all the nuts are tight on the bottom of the building. There are a few nuts that are recessed - those are the ones I had to tighten. If that fixes it take the nuts off, add some loctite, and tighten them back up. That is what Stern tech support told me to do. Hope that helps.

Mine started doing this after a while. I fixed it this way…. Under the pf in the building mech, there’s a metal block part that has two holes and two poles go through the holes. It’s like the guide rails that the building slides up and down on. I figured out there was slight binding going on where these poles go through that metal block piece. It caused the building to vibrate when descending. I put a small amount of liquid Super Lube (2 drops) on each pole and rubbed it around with a cloth. Fixed it right away and hasn’t been an issue since.

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Thank you both. I will try both things this morning.

I got my Pro last week. I am in Monster Heaven! I look forward to playing daily and rereading all 389 pages of this thread.

That's exactly what I did, except in my case I got through the whole thread while I was waiting on my game. It makes very good reading, and you'll certainly be prepared for anything that pops up. Plus, if you do run into an issue, everyone here is very helpful.
Enjoy!

I believe the game comes with some lube to use? I'm sure the Super Lube works great, but I'm wondering why you chose to use this over what it came with? I ask because I will have to do the same thing eventually Thanks!

If you don't mind me asking...How much does this cost, and is it a pain in the butt to remove those siderails?

Newer Sterns are easy to remove the armor. They don't use double sided tape. Side rails use 2 Phillips screws, and a bolt at each end. The head does have to fold down to remove the back bolt (unless you're removing the hinges also). Legs, Lockbar, you know that stuff. My local place charges $80 to strip and sandblast the original finish off, then $225 to do the coating. They provide any base coat needed. I buy the color I want from Prismaticpowders.com and bring it to them. I've had numerous games done, and I have spare armor sets on hand (they aren't terribly expensive). That way the game isn't torn apart for weeks waiting on the job to be complete.

I suggest you use only BLUE or PURPLE loctite in a situation like this (not the RED or GREEN permanent type that you will hate down the road when you need to remove it for any reason).

I don’t remember any lube coming w the game. Maybe in the goodie bag which I didn’t fully open? I used super lube only because I find it to be good general purpose synthetic and doesn’t get all gunked up over time. And a tiny bit goes a long way. Works great on spinners too. That said I know you don’t want to lube a pin in general but I find certain targeted applications to fix specific problems have been fine.

Mine came with this
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Super Lube is good stuff! Thanks for your input.

Smart, that's what I was thinking...Pin would be down for a month or more

Wow. Were there instructions about what the lube was meant for?

This was the answer someone posted from Stern

A word of caution: Use lube very sparingly as it becomes a magnet for DUST. Once you start using lube, the dust will become a regular service item for you every 50-100 games or so. I prefer NOT to use it anywhere since most mechs on most modern playfields are designed not to need it.

Hi All,

Today I noticed when the “Light Destruction Jackpot” insert in front of the building is lit and I hit into the building, my GZ Premium won’t initiate the Destruction Jackpot mode and the “Destruction Jackpot” insert will not light.

When I hit the ball into the building the damage meter registers fine. Has anyone run into this issue and if yes can you please offer a solution? Thanks.

I totally forgot about it. So funny. I just threw it in my junk drawer, I didn't give it much thought.

There's a Building Hit opto (switch 52) and a Building Exit micro (switch 53) as well. Try feeding a ball through the building in Switch Test to see if your Building Exit (53) is registering.

I had a similar issue when my machine was new where the entry/hit was working but the exit was not. Turned out the leaf of the microswitch needed to be adjusted. Kind of a pain, it's down in that space just behind and below the right end of the bridge (on a Prem/LE). Best tweaked with a switch leaf adjuster tool, super handy to have in your kit if you don't already have one.

https://www.pinballlife.com/ultimate-leaf-adjuster-tool.html

Does anyone know how to get a 3X super or higher in Godzilla Multiball?

From the Godzilla Rulesheet at Tilt Forums: http://tiltforums.com/t/stern-godzilla-rulesheet/7210

"Godzilla Multiball begins by either plunging and releasing all three balls from the magnet lock (Pro) or releasing all three balls from the building towards the flippers (Prem / LE). During Multiball, shoot lit shots for Jackpots worth 500k + 500k per Godzilla Multiball started. Each jackpot advances its corresponding shot to the next Jackpot level, up to three times per shot until the Super Jackpot is scored:

Blue > 1x Jackpot
Green > 2x Jackpot
Yellow > 3x Jackpot
Orange > 4x Jackpot
Red > 5x Jackpot
Super Jackpot, worth the jackpot total, lights at the building by shooting 6 Jackpot shots. Complete all lit shots for +1x to Super Jackpot. Shoot the Wallop shot (reverse building) for an additional +1x. Scoring the Super Jackpot also relights all jackpots at +1x their initial level (the highest level jackpots can be lit at after scoring the Super Jackpot is 3x), and is required to qualify Monster Zero."