Quoted from darkryder:

Is this backpanel left center flasher not used in the game? This specific flasher doesn’t light up when cycling through flasher test mode. If it’s supposed to flash, could someone post a picture of the corresponding flasher or area on the backpanel that’s supposed to flash? Thanks in advance
[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from TheShadowsNose:

Hey there, I just picked up a beautiful GZ premium. Only issue is that the gate will not raise during GZ multiball to release the balls from the roof. Gate also does not raise during ball search. Anyone else have this issue? Any ideas on a remedy?

Quoted from Nokoro:

Doesn’t raise at all or doesn’t raise enough? If the latter, there’s a post to the left of the building. When the building lowers, the post pushes up on a section of the arm that controls the gate. Put a washer or two under the post so the gate raises a bit more. If the gate doesn’t raise at all, you may be missing that post, assuming your building is lowering properly.

Quoted from briyau15:

Well, got it again. Only thing I can think of is that the first two games I barely made the relay value after the bonuses so maybe those bonuses don’t count.

Under Adjustments - SPI - Adjustment #1. You can change it to “Fixed”, then change Adjustment #3 to Extra Ball. Then you can set how many Replays available to earn in Adj #4 and then Adj 7-10 allow you to select the amounts.

Quoted from briyau15:

Well, got it again. Only thing I can think of is that the first two games I barely made the relay value after the bonuses so maybe those bonuses don’t count.

Under Adjustments - SPI - Adjustment #1. You can change it to “Fixed”, then change Adjustment #3 to Extra Ball. Then you can set how many Replays available to earn in Adj #4 and then Adj 7-10 allow you to select the amounts.

Quoted from SimplePin:

Got my "Abe's Fix" today from Freddy's Pinball Paradise. This thing is a work of art. Right up there or even rivaling Bally/William's stainless work. All I can say is that it provides the shooter lane fix. Smooth plunge 100% of the time so far. But the added value of the cost of shipping from Germany is the fact that it looks beautiful. As I said earlier in this thread. It should have come like this from the factory. Go look at the SW shooter lane for comparison. [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from Nokoro:

Doesn’t raise at all or doesn’t raise enough? If the latter, there’s a post to the left of the building. When the building lowers, the post pushes up on a section of the arm that controls the gate. Put a washer or two under the post so the gate raises a bit more. If the gate doesn’t raise at all, you may be missing that post, assuming your building is lowering properly.

Quoted from BrokenChair:

Happy to hear it’s working good for someone
I installed the lermods version of Abe’s shooter fix and I Am a bit disappointed with the results of it still getting weird launches ;
Maybe I should try swapping it out and getting the stainless steel one but would that make a difference even?
Mine is mounted correctly and everything
It works good like 90% of the time still a 10% of the ball doing weird stuff
Don’t get me wrong it’s way better than it was but sad with results how people are saying 100 %

Quoted from TheShadowsNose:

It seems like the building is possibly not going all the way down. But also can’t seem to get it to go down at all in test mode, in that the menu comes up but none of the coin door buttons seem to activate the test. Which seems odd.

Quoted from purbeast:

Those of you who have taken your playfield out of your GZ, is the cat6 cable all intertwined with the 3 quick disconnect cables you disconnect in order to make it disconnected from the cabinet? Did you have to basically disconnect it and then untwist it so it's just not all mixed up with those other wires?
I have some mirror blades I want to install and it just seems like it would be much easier to do with the playfield out, but I've never taken one out before. Aside from the network cable being intertwined, it seems like it's pretty straight forward.

Quoted from daveyvandy:

I installed mirror blades without taking the playfield out for what it's worth. What kind did you get? Mine did not have any screws which made installation a lot easier.

Quoted from Nokoro:

Did you pull the interlock switch out so there’s power to the building during test mode?

Quoted from purbeast:

I got the PBL ones that stick on.
I was playing with it last night a bit and with the playfield flipped up, I couldn't even get my head to fit behind the playfield to see if the circle at the rear of the cab was lined up at all. I'm just not sure exactly how to do it.
Once you peal off the 3M side, can you "slide" them around at all? Or is it super tacky and sticks very easily to the point you can't make changes by pushing em around?

Quoted from purbeast:

I got the PBL ones that stick on.
I was playing with it last night a bit and with the playfield flipped up, I couldn't even get my head to fit behind the playfield to see if the circle at the rear of the cab was lined up at all. I'm just not sure exactly how to do it.
Once you peal off the 3M side, can you "slide" them around at all? Or is it super tacky and sticks very easily to the point you can't make changes by pushing em around?

Quoted from NoDisclaimer:

There's three connectors to unplug cut the zip ties off the cat 6 disconnect it and the playfield pulls right out. Put the apron on the bottom if you lean it against the wall.

Quoted from daveyvandy:

Those are the ones I got and I installed them without removing the play field. The trick is to lift the play field up so that it's against the back box and then install them while standing on the opposite side of the machine. They're not super super sticky, but they also don't slide around. I started in the upper corner above the hole and work my way down and forward. There's also the wet method which I've never used but could possibly work here.

Quoted from mtdouble:

The major differences between the premium and LE is what?

Quoted from purbeast:

Yeah I saw those disconnects and I did see the ziptie connecting the cat 6 to the wire group, but the cat 6 is also like twisted all around. I'm sure it will pull right out though and I can wrap it back up if I wanted to. I planned on just sitting the playfield flat on the ground if I went this route.

Gotcha. I may give that another go late tonight but it still seems like it'll be a bit tough to do it that way. It just seems hard to see under the playfield when it's leaning back up against the backbox because the building blocks so much of the view. My lighting also isn't the best when I was messing with it yesterday. I need to find my headlamp to help with that.
I did notice that when I line the hole up perfectly, the top of the blades are definitely right at the glass guide. There is like a noticeable gap between the top of the mirror blade and the slot the glass slides into. I can move it up a bit more but the holes aren't perfectly flush, but still enough where I could get a socket in there if need be.
I was assuming you wanted the blades lined up as close to the slot for the glass to slide through as possible right? I've never installed glades in general so this is my first time.

Quoted from pinmister:

Biggest is mirrored back glass, and foil art for cabinet(stunning), shaker and side blades. I was not big into Godzilla upon release because of theme(did not think I would connect) but the gameplay won me over. I am on the fence right now and not sure what direction to take? I thought about offering my minty LOTR towards trade bait but changed my mind(hoarder syndrome). I have a good friend that said he would take Pro over Premium/LE for flow and gameplay. Then I have friends say Premium/LE for home is only way to go. Bridge is no biggie and building sinking may not be special after a few hundred plays, but what about Mechazilla? Decisions-Decisions Wish somebody local would hook me up on a HUO LE for Christmas. I can get a NIB delivered in February for Premium. Never bought a premium before-always Pro or LE for me. So do I buy a modded Pro with Drake building-hold out for LE or purchase a Premium and powder coat with sparkling emerald green powder?

Quoted from daveyvandy:

Here's pictures of my install for reference. Kind of hard to tell with the pin stadiums installed on there, but there's very little gap from the top of the mirror blades to the cut for the glass channel.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from mtdouble:

and price difference is about 5k

Quoted from purbeast:

Thanks for those.
So it looks like you have the circle holes lined up perfectly centered, and basically have that gap run along the entire side pretty evenly? Like the gap at the back of the cab is the same as the cap at the front?

Quoted from daveyvandy:

Yep, pretty much. It doesn't have to be exactly perfect, unless it bothers you of course lol.

Quoted from FatPanda:

I guess it's new code day? Just started on its own while in attract mode.
[quoted image]

Quoted from chuckwurt:

It’s most likely the code from 11/30 that just hasn’t had a chance to install yet.

Quoted from FatPanda:

I guess it's new code day? Just started on its own while in attract mode.
[quoted image]

Quoted from Desmodromic:

I actually just checked mine right before seeing your post and nothing came up for me. 1.03 released on 11/30, but 1.02 released just a week earlier on 11/23. Let us know what code you have once it finishes!

Quoted from NoSkills:

This looks like the most aesthetically pleasing solution. Does it need 3m to stick in place?

Quoted from FatPanda:

It's still 1.03 unfortunately lol

Quoted from mtdouble:

Thank you, aesthetics only difference between premium and LE, and price difference is about 5k?

Quoted from purbeast:

I got the PBL ones that stick on.
I was playing with it last night a bit and with the playfield flipped up, I couldn't even get my head to fit behind the playfield to see if the circle at the rear of the cab was lined up at all. I'm just not sure exactly how to do it.
Once you peal off the 3M side, can you "slide" them around at all? Or is it super tacky and sticks very easily to the point you can't make changes by pushing em around?

Quoted from JayLar:

How good is Pinstadium on Godzilla? Must have or just nice to have?

Quoted from KneeKickLou:

Dang you had me excited for a Christmas pinball miracle

Quoted from mjthompson:

I had a few people ask for the stl for this so I added it to Thingiverse - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5593220.

Quoted from jackd104:

I'm working on improving the ball shooter, it's been rattle-y since I got the game a couple weeks ago and it really bothers me. This builds on prior threads by fooflighter:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stern-godzilla-official-owners-club/page/280#post-7087445
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stern-godzilla-official-owners-club/page/281#post-7088176
I've done several things from this advice, will share to help others, but also to get pointers moving forward. I have made progress: it shoots much better now, but is still not to my satisfaction.
The first step was stabilizing my playfield, as it would shift by 3-4mm if I pulled on the front of the PF left/right. If that isn't stable, then aligning the shooter rod won't do much good.
There was prior discussion about playfield alignment brackets and that some earlier GZ's had come with them, but newer builds didn't. I emailed Stern support asking why my GZ didn't have them, while others did, and if it needed them. The response: "As for the alignment bracket, the new cabinets are not supposed to need them. I forget the exact date we started using them, do you know when your friend got their game?" Apparently, there were "new cabinets" at some point, and it was on purpose the brackets aren't installed any more.
Although Stern said the new cabinets don't need them, my playfield (build date 8/22) certainly seemed to need them (btw, another owner in this thread said their PF didn't move at all, and they didn't have the brackets - puzzle). So I ordered the brackets:
https://www.pinballlife.com/switch-plate-left.html
https://www.pinballlife.com/switch-plate-right.html
(note, when this part is being used as a playfield alignment bracket, it really shouldn't matter whether you use the "left" or "right" part, but anyway...)
To install these brackets...
With the PF down, I reached my hand through the coin box with a small piece of painters tape and stuck it by feel to where the PF meets the cabinet. This helped determine where to put the brackets.
[quoted image]
On each side, I screwed in the brackets so that the top screw was right near the top of the tape. Just used one screw at first in case it was in the wrong position (why make two bad holes instead of just one?)
[quoted image]
I lowered the PF to test them out. They were in the right spots, but the PF wouldn't lower all the way. So the brackets needed to be flattened a little. I thought about tapping them with a hammer, but didn't wand to damage the cab, so I removed the brackets and flattened each slightly in a vice. Pic shows before and after slight flattening.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Then I removed the painters tape and put the brackets back and tried again. PF was snug and fit was good. I added the second screw to each bracket. And it looks like this installed.
[quoted image]
Now, the result of this was that my PF was rock solid. I could not budge it even 1 mm left or right when pulling on the front of the PF. A nice feeling in itself
With the PF stabilized, here is what my shooter alignment looked like - too far to the right. Also, quite far away from where the ball will rest.
[quoted image]
Next I loosen the screws on the shooter rod housing and shift it over to the left as far as I could. It barely moved so I just moved it as far as possible and hoped it was far enough.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
I could have done a few different things to bring the shooter tip closer to the ball. I had several old barrel springs so I decided to try a shorter barrel spring. (this part may be similar to one I used, but it's hard to tell from the pic: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/25878)
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
(I'm not thrilled having this nasty old spring on my beautiful GZ, but alas...)
So this is how the alignment and position looks now when at rest. Well-aligned and the shooter tip is just a hair from the ball, which seems to work well on other games:
[quoted image]
The result... overall, the shooting experience is much improved. Before, nearly every manual plunge was a rattle-y shot that didn't cleanly leave the shooter lane. Now, soft plunges and powerful plunges are nearly 100% clean. There is a lot more trouble in medium-strength plunges, though. Somewhere around where you want to be to hit the skill shot. And with those, it's about 50/50 a clean shot verses rattling around.
To me, the effort thus far was worth this result, but still puzzling whether I can actually make it better from here. With some slo mo video of the medium-strength rattle-ly shots, things always go wrong at the short metal ramp near the shooter.
[quoted image]
Before hitting this ramp, the ball is going straight. Then, near the top of this ramp, the ball veers toward the right, hitting the right wall, bouncing toward the left and hitting the metal wall near the scoop.
[quoted image]
Right now, I am feeling like this metal ramp may be a design problem that I can't reasonably fix. Other games have a slit or graduated channel for the ball which seems work better. When the ball hits that ramp, there's a sudden change in upward direction that causes the ball to go wonky about half the time. At least that's my theory!
If anyone else tries to improve this or has suggestions I am all ears. Also, does anyone's GZ actually shoot great out of the box? I would be curious to know.
PS - game is carefully leveled side-to-side with digital level, and at 6.65 slope. Many have said 6.8 ish is a better slope for GZ and I'll try that sometime soon. Not sure if that will affect this issue any though.

Quoted from NoDisclaimer:

Every time I get a big score I have a panic attack and drain. I can't wait until I get over the billion hump it's been such a nemesis.[quoted image]

Quoted from BrokenChair:

Well I got my first real issue with my new premium; left slingshot is totally unresponsive. Kinda bummed the tech just left my house tonight and I did not realize this … oooof epic fail
I have limited knowledge however leaf switch gap looks good spacing is similar to slingshot that’s working . So I don’t think it’s a leaf switch gap issue Atleast…
Does anyone mind helping through the next steps to troubleshoot/fix?
Thank you so much appreciate the wisdom and help