Godzilla (Limited Edition)
Stern, 2021
Godzilla (Premium)
Stern, 2021
Godzilla (Pro)
Stern, 2021Quoted from Paseb:Best way to hook up a polk sub?
Pinsound connector?
Or pinnovator?
[quoted image][quoted image]
You could try it without either to start; you just add wiring to your existing cabinet speaker connectors. Some machines even have empty spade connectors on the cab speaker already, you just clip onto those with spade connector or you could alligator clip onto the terminals and run to subwoofer that way.
Otherwise I think the either of the two adapters you mentioned will work.
Quoted from prentice:You could try it without either to start; you just add wiring to your existing cabinet speaker connectors. Some machines even have empty spade connectors on the cab speaker already, you just clip onto those with spade connector or you could alligator clip onto the terminals and run to subwoofer that way.
Otherwise I think the either of the two adapters you mentioned will work.
I went with the chip the plugs. Always wondered what Stern means on the flyer when they said Spike 2 systems have a sub line out. I have yet to find this sub line plug.
A new problem with my GZ Premium: sometimes the ball goes into the building, when lock is lit, and doesn't come out. I can sometimes reproduce this in switch test. The VUK Opto registers, but the VUK doesn't fire. It doesn't happen all the time in play, nor all the time in switch testing. I can't see the ball when it gets lost like that, but a ball search will cause the VUK to shoot it up, so I assume it's sitting in the little subway right on top of the VUK. I've removed that little subway, and there are no obstructions in it. If I physically lift up the front of the machine, the VUK will notice the ball, and shoot it up to the roof (if it's in switch test, where the tilt won't matter).
At first I thought maybe it was because I had the pitch at 7.5, so I lowered it to 6.8 (boy, does it seem floaty now!), but that made balls get lost more often. It is perfectly level side to side at the top of the playfield, and off by 0.1 at the bottom, as measured with a digital level (not a phone).
I've read this whole thread, and I don't remember seeing this issue. Couldn't find any mention of it by searching, either. Thanks for any help you can offer!
Thoughts on how to fix this? The ball gets stuck when it goes underneath the top part of the rail. Normally the ball has enough speed to clear it and it only sticks for a second but if the ball isn't going fast enough it will get stuck. I'm hesitant to start bending it because I'm afraid it'll get misaligned somewhere.
20221126_110927 (resized).jpgQuoted from crunchysue:A new problem with my GZ Premium: sometimes the ball goes into the building, when lock is lit, and doesn't come out. I can sometimes reproduce this in switch test. The VUK Opto registers, but the VUK doesn't fire. It doesn't happen all the time in play, nor all the time in switch testing. I can't see the ball when it gets lost like that, but a ball search will cause the VUK to shoot it up, so I assume it's sitting in the little subway right on top of the VUK. I've removed that little subway, and there are no obstructions in it. If I physically lift up the front of the machine, the VUK will notice the ball, and shoot it up to the roof (if it's in switch test, where the tilt won't matter).
At first I thought maybe it was because I had the pitch at 7.5, so I lowered it to 6.8 (boy, does it seem floaty now!), but that made balls get lost more often. It is perfectly level side to side at the top of the playfield, and off by 0.1 at the bottom, as measured with a digital level (not a phone).
I've read this whole thread, and I don't remember seeing this issue. Couldn't find any mention of it by searching, either. Thanks for any help you can offer!
Some people have posted about having the ball hang up on the end of the subway just before the VUK. Might be worth checking out. Here's one post where it's mentioned:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stern-godzilla-official-owners-club/page/289#post-7109591
Quoted from brit141:Thoughts on how to fix this? The ball gets stuck when it goes underneath the top part of the rail. Normally the ball has enough speed to clear it and it only sticks for a second but if the ball isn't going fast enough it will get stuck. I'm hesitant to start bending it because I'm afraid it'll get misaligned somewhere.
[quoted image]
Gentle bending is the way to go. Do it a little bit until you get the clearance you need.
Quoted from Paseb:Best way to hook up a polk sub?
Pinsound connector?
Or pinnovator?
[quoted image][quoted image]
Best way? Pinwoofer with the BBU. Incredible sound and easy to fine tune to your liking
Quoted from prentice:You could try it without either to start; you just add wiring to your existing cabinet speaker connectors. Some machines even have empty spade connectors on the cab speaker already, you just clip onto those with spade connector or you could alligator clip onto the terminals and run to subwoofer that way.
Otherwise I think the either of the two adapters you mentioned will work.
This^
Quoted from brit141:Thoughts on how to fix this? The ball gets stuck when it goes underneath the top part of the rail. Normally the ball has enough speed to clear it and it only sticks for a second but if the ball isn't going fast enough it will get stuck. I'm hesitant to start bending it because I'm afraid it'll get misaligned somewhere.
[quoted image]
I second gently bending it. I had the same issue.
Quoted from EaglePin:Some people have posted about having the ball hang up on the end of the subway just before the VUK. Might be worth checking out. Here's one post where it's mentioned:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stern-godzilla-official-owners-club/page/289#post-7109591
Ahh, thanks @eaglepin! I do have a pretty good gap between the subway and the VUK hole, like the guy in that post, so I tried taping a little cardboard in the gap, and now I can't reproduce the issue. So hopefully that was it. Now, for a permanent fix, I really don't want to drill new holes in the playfield to move the subway closer to the VUK, but I'm not sure how else to move it.
Quoted from BFaster:This happened to mine just last week. Easy fix. First go to page 56 in the service manual to see the exploded parts diagram.
Lift the playfield and find the screw that goes in the back of the magnet core (his belly button). Part #7 in the diagram. You will also need to find the spring washer (part #8) which is most likely still inside Mecha, just fallen down.
Two tips.
First, while the Magnet core is out of Mecha take the screw and thread it all the way back into the core. On mine, the threads had "tightened" I think due to the heat that gets generated. Had to drive the screw all the way in to sort of re-expand the threaded hole. Was no problem, just could not get the leverage while it was in place trying to reattach.
Also, holding the spring clip in place was a bit of a challenge until I used my magnetic grabber tool to hold it in place while I slide the magnet core back through. Super easy with the magnet tool assist.
15 minute fix. Five minutes to search for the screw. Five minutes to scratch my head and strategize. Five minutes of work.
Also, I put a dab of blue lock-tite on the screw when I replaced it (distributor's suggestion).
Probably 100 plays since fixed. No further problem. Working as it should.
Thanks for the advice! 
Quoted from crunchysue:Ahh, thanks EaglePin! I do have a pretty good gap between the subway and the VUK hole, like the guy in that post, so I tried taping a little cardboard in the gap, and now I can't reproduce the issue. So hopefully that was it. Now, for a permanent fix, I really don't want to drill new holes in the playfield to move the subway closer to the VUK, but I'm not sure how else to move it.
Someone posted here about adding washers behind this piece to close the gap on the bottom. I did on mine and it helped a lot. I put 2 washers in the top 2 holes, and one washer in the middle holes. Kind of a pain. I might glue them on if I ever have to remove this again. Worst case I would open the holes on the subway piece. I would not drill new holes in the PF.
21E8AF1F-F22A-4654-849C-3E92259DEA44 (resized).jpeg
Quoted from crunchysue:A new problem with my GZ Premium: sometimes the ball goes into the building, when lock is lit, and doesn't come out. I can sometimes reproduce this in switch test. The VUK Opto registers, but the VUK doesn't fire. It doesn't happen all the time in play, nor all the time in switch testing. I can't see the ball when it gets lost like that, but a ball search will cause the VUK to shoot it up, so I assume it's sitting in the little subway right on top of the VUK. I've removed that little subway, and there are no obstructions in it. If I physically lift up the front of the machine, the VUK will notice the ball, and shoot it up to the roof (if it's in switch test, where the tilt won't matter).
At first I thought maybe it was because I had the pitch at 7.5, so I lowered it to 6.8 (boy, does it seem floaty now!), but that made balls get lost more often. It is perfectly level side to side at the top of the playfield, and off by 0.1 at the bottom, as measured with a digital level (not a phone).
I've read this whole thread, and I don't remember seeing this issue. Couldn't find any mention of it by searching, either. Thanks for any help you can offer!
Hey @crunchysue, yes this happened to me and a few others. The trick of placing a piece of cardboard or business card to close the gap between the subway and VUK where the ball gets stuck hopefully will fix it for you. For me it did initially and then the issue returned, so I added washers as described in this post and it fixed the problem 100%. Hope it helps.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stern-godzilla-official-owners-club/page/316#post-7199283
Anyone have solves for a (pro) scoop that rejects as often as not? I previously swapped out the stock scoop protector (which had a split on its side) for a cliffy. Can't see anything visible for the reason why it rejects so much now. I got to play a couple other godzillas on location and it was like another machine: one premium had such grippy + snug accommodating scoop was unbelievable to me. Very frustrating hitting the shot for key stuff and having it pop out sometimes 3-4 times in a row.
Quoted from blueberryjohnson:Anyone have solves for a (pro) scoop that rejects as often as not? I previously swapped out the stock scoop protector (which had a split on its side) for a cliffy. Can't see anything visible for the reason why it rejects so much now. I got to play a couple other godzillas on location and it was like another machine: one premium had such grippy + snug accommodating scoop was unbelievable to me. Very frustrating hitting the shot for key stuff and having it pop out sometimes 3-4 times in a row.
Have you tried lowering flipper power?
Quoted from blueberryjohnson:Anyone have solves for a (pro) scoop that rejects as often as not? I previously swapped out the stock scoop protector (which had a split on its side) for a cliffy. Can't see anything visible for the reason why it rejects so much now. I got to play a couple other godzillas on location and it was like another machine: one premium had such grippy + snug accommodating scoop was unbelievable to me. Very frustrating hitting the shot for key stuff and having it pop out sometimes 3-4 times in a row.
The cliffy is most likely causing the issue. Try it without the cliffy.
Quoted from chuckwurt:The cliffy is most likely causing the issue. Try it without the cliffy.
Good idea that probably should have been obvious. It's my first pin and read all of the things I need to do to protect it. Would much rather just have it play well.
Quoted from Nokoro:I don’t think so. My high scores are set to initials but when I log in with Insider Connected, it uses my user name instead. I don’t see any other settings unless I’m missing something.
Correction. I may have been wrong. It does this for normal scores, but it does appear that I can use my initials now when getting a high score.
Quoted from blueberryjohnson:Good idea that probably should have been obvious. It's my first pin and read all of the things I need to do to protect it. Would much rather just have it play well.
I could only assume you had a much deeper collection.
Hey folks,
Happy to have joined the club today with my GZ Prem. Are there any must do tweaks out of the box? Suggested pitch?
Cheers
Quoted from brit141:Thoughts on how to fix this? The ball gets stuck when it goes underneath the top part of the rail. Normally the ball has enough speed to clear it and it only sticks for a second but if the ball isn't going fast enough it will get stuck. I'm hesitant to start bending it because I'm afraid it'll get misaligned somewhere.
[quoted image]
Had the same issue on AIQ.
Quoted from blueberryjohnson:Good idea that probably should have been obvious. It's my first pin and read all of the things I need to do to protect it. Would much rather just have it play well.
Another cause could be your playfield pitch.. If its too shallow it will more easily bounce right out. You should be at 6.5-7 degrees (I aim for 6.8), and don't rely on that crappy bubble or iPhone app - buy a digital level from Amazon.
Quoted from RoadQueen:Ha! Just what JP76 described! Glad it helped someone else.
Thanks, @jp76, RoadQueen - I remember seeing that post with the washers, but didn't realize it was for my same problem. I guess I'll give that a try, since my taped cardboard failed as soon as I put the glass back on. LOL. And yeah, I woke up thinking about it this morning, and realized that drilling new holes in the subway would be much better than drilling new holes in the playfield.
Quoted from crunchysue:Thanks, JP76, RoadQueen - I remember seeing that post with the washers, but didn't realize it was for my same problem. I guess I'll give that a try, since my taped cardboard failed as soon as I put the glass back on. LOL. And yeah, I woke up thinking about it this morning, and realized that drilling new holes in the subway would be much better than drilling new holes in the playfield.
For what it's worth you may get away without the washers, just tightening those screws made a world of difference for mine. If you think about it the bottom of that vuk assembly get hammered back pretty frequently, not to mention the constant vibration from sending the ball up the vuk. It makes sense those screws are going to loosen up over time. I would say check them every 5 to 700 plays and tighten as needed to keep it running smooth.
Quoted from crunchysue:Ahh, thanks EaglePin! I do have a pretty good gap between the subway and the VUK hole, like the guy in that post, so I tried taping a little cardboard in the gap, and now I can't reproduce the issue. So hopefully that was it. Now, for a permanent fix, I really don't want to drill new holes in the playfield to move the subway closer to the VUK, but I'm not sure how else to move it.
If the cardboard is resolving the problem and it's staying in place then why look for a different fix? I'd figure no need to look to do something else when what you've done seems to have fixed it and it's holding up.
Quoted from chuckwurt:The cliffy is most likely causing the issue. Try it without the cliffy.
Thanks, chuck. This did the trick. Played an entire game without a reject. It was amazing.
So, I think I have a connection/wifi issue on my game, but I caused a second that may be more serious. Does anyone know how to clear this? I accidentally popped out the SD card while my game was on. I reseated it, but immediately got this error. I turned off the game, took the card out and reseated it again. Powered back on and still got the error. I did a factory reset, but that didn't help. I can still play a game and the message goes away after I start a ball but comes back upon the next ball. Any ideas?
Cheers
69126919952__11D5B8EC-5F60-4979-BC20-232B1F2AF5C1 (resized).jpgIMG_7571 (resized).jpgSo I sold my Godzilla Pro because a Ghostbusters became available locally and that's a grail pin for me. I have a number of Godzilla mods for sale, all are brand new, never installed. Prices include US shipping. Photos available, please PM me if you are interested. Thanks!
Mezel Godzilla Pinball Drake Building Upgrade × 1
PRO $135
Mezel Godzilla Pinball Noodle Building × 1 PRO
$100
Lermods Godzilla Pinball PRO Illuminated MechaGodzilla
RED EYES $95
Naegele Oil Building $250
~ PRO
~ NOT Weathered (clean)
~ No Diddy's sign
I'm also looking for the following Ghostbusters Mod - the captive ball set from Mezel Mods - the 3 green balls and the red or blue ball, they are out of stock currently and I would be interested in it.
Quoted from Norcalpin:So, I think I have a connection/wifi issue on my game, but I caused a second that may be more serious. Does anyone know how to clear this? I accidentally popped out the SD card while my game was on. I reseated it, but immediately got this error. I turned off the game, took the card out and reseated it again. Powered back on and still got the error. I did a factory reset, but that didn't help. I can still play a game and the message goes away after I start a ball but comes back upon the next ball. Any ideas?
Cheers
[quoted image][quoted image]
Reflash the SD card with a fresh class 10 card.
Quoted from Apinjunkie:For what it's worth you may get away without the washers, just tightening those screws made a world of difference for mine. If you think about it the bottom of that vuk assembly get hammered back pretty frequently, not to mention the constant vibration from sending the ball up the vuk. It makes sense those screws are going to loosen up over time. I would say check them every 5 to 700 plays and tighten as needed to keep it running smooth.
The screws were all tight. I did end up putting the washers in, but I'll reserve judgement on whether that worked until I've played a few days worth of games. And thanks, I'll check the screws if Godzilla starts losing balls again.
Quoted from EaglePin:If the cardboard is resolving the problem and it's staying in place then why look for a different fix? I'd figure no need to look to do something else when what you've done seems to have fixed it and it's holding up.
The cardboard worked great until I put the glass back on, then it failed on the first game. I ended up putting in the washers, and I haven't had any lost balls yet. Time will tell if it really did work!
Quoted from chuckwurt:Reflash the SD card with a fresh class 10 card.
Yep, I was going that route but the problem seemed to fix itself. I left the game on for 45 minutes and when I came back to it the error was gone. Thanks anyway.
$15 off on our Oxygen Destroyer mod for Cyber Monday!
Highendmods1.com
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/godzilla-oxygen-destroyer-mod
20220418_224013 (resized).jpg
Quoted from ktcoady12:Hi All- this has probably been covered in here- I have a GZ Pro, and Am looking to upgrade the speakers. any suggestions? Thank you
https://pinwoofer.com/
Best $$ you can spend on a pin
Quoted from ktcoady12:Hi All- this has probably been covered in here- I have a GZ Pro, and Am looking to upgrade the speakers. any suggestions? Thank you
If you want to try to do it yourself, it isn’t hard at all and can save a ton of money for the same quality as a $400 kit, but kits will be slightly easier.
$80 on Amazon gets you a full high quality replacement. Here’s a buy list with some instructions: http://bit.ly/sternaudio
Definitely recommend either way!
Quoted from ktcoady12:Hi All- this has probably been covered in here- I have a GZ Pro, and Am looking to upgrade the speakers. any suggestions? Thank you
There's a whole thing about it here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/improving-sound-quality-the-diy-route
Quoted from ktcoady12:Hi All- this has probably been covered in here- I have a GZ Pro, and Am looking to upgrade the speakers. any suggestions? Thank you
Cabinet
JBL Stage810 - 8" Car Audio Subwoofer, Black (STAGE810AM) https://a.co/d/5mL0hMG
Backbox
Kicker 46CSC54 Car Audio 5 1/4" Coaxial Full Range Stereo Speakers Pair CSC5 https://a.co/d/9AYInzr
Or
Pinball Life
https://www.pinballlife.com/boom-boom-3000-8-speaker-upgrade-for-spike-spike-2-machines.html
Quoted from prentice:If you want to try to do it yourself, it isn’t hard at all and can save a ton of money for the same quality as a $400 kit, but kits will be slightly easier.
$80 on Amazon gets you a full high quality replacement. Here’s a buy list with some instructions: http://bit.ly/sternaudio
Definitely recommend either way!
Whoa! This link was super helpful.. Had no idea it was this simple (and cheap - especially today with cyber Monday deals going on) to do this... I might pull the trigger on the first column option and see how it goes.. Have you done this? For a non-audiophile, would I notice a significant difference between stock and column A?
Sure you can add speakers and it will sound better but the amp makes all the difference in the World.I paid 10k and up for my machines and its worth 400 bucks to have the tried and true Pinwoofer kits in all of them.comes with everything in 1 box and support other companies wish they had.
Quoted from cabrioletsch:Got my nuclear mushroom explosion in today
Cheap topper!!!!
[quoted image]
That's actually pretty cool looking, where'd you get it? It might incorporate well into a topper design I've been thinking about for my Elektra.
Screenshot_20221128-133152 (resized).pngGreetings everyone, hope you all are having a great start to the holiday season!
We publish this comparison from time to time as taken from the various posts out there. Below are some things to think about and no knock on anyone's approach:
1) To DIY your realized cost is going to be about the same, but it will be difficult to match PinWoofer's integration and outcome.
2) The time to install the PinWoofer kit is approximately 30–60 minutes and this is likely about the time required to only come up with a plan and order ones own parts, let alone doing the actual install.
3) DIY install time is going to vary widely but it will be on the order of hours if not days.
4) Odds of failure are higher, and Amazon does not provide pinball audio support.
5) After the money is spent, there is little or no brand recognition for the mixed parts added so it will be difficult to convince a buyer that your upgrades command a higher selling price.
Spike-2 Super Kit:
https://pinwoofer.com/pinwoofer-spike-super-kit/
Thanks for your attention and have a stellar day!
Dan
https://PinWoofer.com
[email protected]
+1 208-855-0346, 9am - 5pm MT, Mon - Fri
20221026 DIY Breakdown (resized).jpgQuoted from Apinjunkie:That's actually pretty cool looking, where'd you get it? It might incorporate well into a topper design I've been thinking about for my Elektra.
[quoted image]
From aliexpress
Quoted from Apinjunkie:That's actually pretty cool looking, where'd you get it? It might incorporate well into a topper design I've been thinking about for my Elektra.
[quoted image]
Screenshot_2022-11-28-20-50-38-799_com.alibaba.aliexpresshd (resized).jpgWanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
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