Quoted from fooflighter:

That's a wire loom used as ball trap preventer, should go behind Mecha on the plastic to prevent balls getting lodged there. You probably are missing a screw there as well unless the clip broke
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Quoted from Desmodromic:

OK, good call. I confirmed using the Diag -> Switches that my Opto 52 is actually working OK. In my case the one that is actually acting funny (I think) is physical gate switch 53 for Building Exit.
On a regular through-the-building shot, I get an Opto 52 trigger and nothing when the ball goes through the Switch 53 ball gate.
If I shoot backward up the return and around into the back of the building, or just push a pinball backward through the Switch 53 ball gate, Switch 53 triggers and then the Opto 52.
Looks like the end of the leaf is tilted down, so when the gate tilts on exit, it doesn't displace the leaf enough to trigger the microswitch. But on the other side (backward shot) the leaf is higher so the switch triggers when a ball passes.
Sound like I'm on the right track? This would all make sense with my symptoms (I think) as I can register hits to the building and damage buildup by passing through Opto 52. But it doesn't count as a shot through the building because it never fires Switch 53. Same with my situation where the Oxygen Destroyer wasn't defused since it looked like a strike at the front of the building (Opto 52 only) instead of a full pass through the building and return chute (Switch 53).
So do I just tweak the tail end of the leaf upward?
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Quoted from Apinjunkie:

Find some quarters.

Quoted from mtp78:

So I got my game on Halloween and really haven't played it since the diagnostic buttons are broken.

Quoted from cscmtp:

is 5 Billion a meh, good, or great score on this pin?

Quoted from javagrind888:

Can someone link the playfield alignment brackets that are missing in Godzilla? I don't know what to search for on Pinballlife and can't find it.

Quoted from mtp78:

So I got my game on Halloween and really haven't played it since the diagnostic buttons are broken. Curious to what you guys think of this. I was told by my dist. I was getting a freshly made game from the Oct run. I receive the game and the box is kind of dirty and I check the production sticker and it's June 2022 and has code .97 loaded.
I thought it was weird cause my dist. texts me saying he just got a message from Stern , its coming off the line and I will be getting it shipped directly from them . He sent me the shipping slip and that is correct. Game looks fine out of the box, Just seemed weird to me and my Dist. seems stumped too...Any thoughts?

Quoted from mtp78:

So I got my game on Halloween and really haven't played it since the diagnostic buttons are broken. Curious to what you guys think of this. I was told by my dist. I was getting a freshly made game from the Oct run. I receive the game and the box is kind of dirty and I check the production sticker and it's June 2022 and has code .97 loaded.
I thought it was weird cause my dist. texts me saying he just got a message from Stern , its coming off the line and I will be getting it shipped directly from them . He sent me the shipping slip and that is correct. Game looks fine out of the box, Just seemed weird to me and my Dist. seems stumped too...Any thoughts?

Quoted from ExSquid:

I had to order this and just replaced mine. Works great now. Easy to install.
https://www.pinballlife.com/coin-door-4-button-service-button.html

Quoted from fooflighter:

I wonder if it got shelved in the factory temporarily while they were waiting on parts to finish it. It could be that everything was complete, save for a couple items they had earmarked to complete. I'm just throwing out a guess and don't know if they do this officially or not in production, but it would explain the strange dates

Quoted from tedwasright:

I just gotta say that the change to Imposter Battle if fuckin blowhard. I used to get one every once in a while. Now I get one every once in a while and I get credit for it every once in a while.
I hope they fix this.

Quoted from Jedi_Gill:

As mentioned in my previous post and it should probably be stickied across all other PINS. Pinball Life is aware of the flaw of the stock designs from wherever Stern gets them and has re-designed them. These are similar looking but mechanically different and as they even stated. "These are the good ones".
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Quoted from awesome1:

I've missed out on some myself since the spinner doesn't move enough to register a hit. Should be the switch or the spinner to get the award.

Quoted from chuckwurt:

Adjust your switch so the ball will register it no matter how slow it goes through the spinner.

Quoted from chuckwurt:

Adjust your switch so the ball will register it no matter how slow it goes through the spinner.

Quoted from tedwasright:

You mean just adjust the tiny leaf switch to super small gap?

Quoted from awesome1:

I'm not sure that's possible

Quoted from chuckwurt:

You should be able to bend the arm of the micro switch so that a ball cannot pass through that spinner without registering the microswitch.

Quoted from jackd104:

Welp, every minutia is discussed around here, so... after getting real familiar with my GZ over the past couple months of ownership, I finally got around to noticing that the slingshots came from the factory with hair-trigger switch adjustment. That is, trigger switches were a gnat's ass from touching so if the ball so much as breezed by it would trigger. Most switches, you want them to be easily triggered, but the slings are crucial to ball control. I found the default adjustment a bit unreasonable in they would send the ball flying around at the slightest touch. I adjusted to add a little more gap, still in the realm of "fair and reasonable" as far as I am concerned, and it increased the fun of the game a lot for me, in the sense it increase ball control quite a bit. Curious how others' sling switches came from the factory and if you have farted around with this.
PS - they were like > 1mm and now they are probably ~2mm. this with the sling rubber on.

Quoted from jackd104:

Welp, every minutia is discussed around here, so... after getting real familiar with my GZ over the past couple months of ownership, I finally got around to noticing that the slingshots came from the factory with hair-trigger switch adjustment. That is, trigger switches were a gnat's ass from touching so if the ball so much as breezed by it would trigger. Most switches, you want them to be easily triggered, but the slings are crucial to ball control. I found the default adjustment a bit unreasonable in they would send the ball flying around at the slightest touch. I adjusted to add a little more gap, still in the realm of "fair and reasonable" as far as I am concerned, and it increased the fun of the game a lot for me, in the sense it increase ball control quite a bit. Curious how others' sling switches came from the factory and if you have farted around with this.
PS - they were like > 1mm and now they are probably ~2mm. this with the sling rubber on.

Quoted from jackd104:

Welp, every minutia is discussed around here, so... after getting real familiar with my GZ over the past couple months of ownership, I finally got around to noticing that the slingshots came from the factory with hair-trigger switch adjustment. That is, trigger switches were a gnat's ass from touching so if the ball so much as breezed by it would trigger. Most switches, you want them to be easily triggered, but the slings are crucial to ball control. I found the default adjustment a bit unreasonable in they would send the ball flying around at the slightest touch. I adjusted to add a little more gap, still in the realm of "fair and reasonable" as far as I am concerned, and it increased the fun of the game a lot for me, in the sense it increase ball control quite a bit. Curious how others' sling switches came from the factory and if you have farted around with this.
PS - they were like < 1mm and now they are probably ~2mm. this with the sling rubber on.

Quoted from chuckwurt:

You should be able to bend the arm of the micro switch so that a ball cannot pass through that spinner without registering the microswitch.

Quoted from chuckwurt:

See my post above.

Quoted from chuckwurt:

Just adjusted mine. I got it so that the spinner registers at least once even if I drop the ball from only a couple inches above the spinner. So I doubt it would ever be possible for the ball to go down that lane and not register the spinner. Same adjustment made for the gate, but as we know the ball can sneak around the side of that.

Quoted from awesome1:

Cool, I'll have time this weekend to check it out. Does the spinner always come to rest with the arm on the switch, never at the topmost point away from the switch?

Quoted from drbrain:

I just checked my leaf switch at 53 and it is very flat and straight. Yours looks a little bit bent down but not that much as there is pressure placed on the switch naturally from the gate. First, to adjust a leaf switch always use a leaf switch adjuster tool.
Here is a link to one - https://www.pinballlife.com/ultimate-leaf-adjuster-tool.html
Be careful when adjusting switches as a very little change can make a big difference. Also you would most likely want to adjust it further back than at the end, hard to say till you try but go slow. I would roll a ball through in both directions while in switch test and watch the motion of the switch and see if it closes the small plunger and it registers in the switch test. You can also move the gate manually and see what happens. Remember the ball may not move the gate as much as you do manually when it goes through and speed can play a factor sometimes.
Good luck and if anyone else wants to jump in please do as I wonder if it could be something else as well.

Quoted from chuckwurt:

Just adjusted mine. I got it so that the spinner registers at least once even if I drop the ball from only a couple inches above the spinner. So I doubt it would ever be possible for the ball to go down that lane and not register the spinner. Same adjustment made for the gate, but as we know the ball can sneak around the side of that.

Quoted from Desmodromic:

Thanks drbrain - this leaf adjustment seems to have addressed my issue. Because of the overly downward tilt, a ball would easily actuate Switch 53 when going up (backward) but when going down (building shot) the chute, there wasn't enough displacement of the leaf. Didn't take too much of a tweak to make it right. I did a handful of tests of the Oxygen Destroyer and it defuses every time now. Doesn't seem like this area would need adjustment in the future but if it does, I know where to tweak.

Turns out in my case I had TWO issues. The Switch 53 issue above that was not registering and not defusing the Oxygen Destroyer - but also the set screw that holds the pulley to the building ballscrew (in the lower mechanism) had backed out. The stepper motor would start, turn the belt and two pulleys, but since the driven pulley was not anchored to the shaft, the building would never move. Easy one to fix, just orient the pulley set screw to the flat on the end of the ballscrew and tighten.
So, back in action with Godzilla multiball and building movement and with Oxygen Destroyer too.
Now to play some pinball with all the features working!

Quoted from metallik:

Now you need to confirm the spinner will still rip properly when hit hard and not just keep the switch closed most of the rip.

Quoted from chuckwurt:

After adjustment, the spinner arm is touching the switch actuator at all times.

Quoted from Lazlo:

So I got a NIB Godzilla delivered a week ago, I set it and it seemed to play fine for the first 80 plays. After that every time a switch would hit my Mech target bank would rotate. I emailed tech support, they told me to check the set screw and the Opto LEDS.
Having done all this my issues is
In shield test mode, opto/switch 41 does not stay activated after it spins from the position of switch 42. I have tested the Opto and it seems to work.
Anyone else have this problem ?

Quoted from ronaldvg:

This is very strange, because I had Switch 41 and 42 not working also today, but they are not optos, so how did you check the opto leds? Those switches are magnetic switches, at least on the Premium. By the way my problem was a loose V+ wire (the red one) that was not crimped nicely into the pin in a connector. Took some serious time to find that problem, as the wire was in the connector, but not making contact with the pin in the connector. Connector was at the very bottom of the playfield also, not near the switches. That red wire seems to go to several optos also.

Quoted from ronaldvg:

This is very strange, because I had Switch 41 and 42 not working also today, but they are not optos, so how did you check the opto leds? Those switches are magnetic switches, at least on the Premium. By the way my problem was a loose V+ wire (the red one) that was not crimped nicely into the pin in a connector. Took some serious time to find that problem, as the wire was in the connector, but not making contact with the pin in the connector. Connector was at the very bottom of the playfield also, not near the switches. That red wire seems to go to several optos also.

Quoted from ronaldvg:

This is very strange, because I had Switch 41 and 42 not working also today, but they are not optos, so how did you check the opto leds? Those switches are magnetic switches, at least on the Premium. By the way my problem was a loose V+ wire (the red one) that was not crimped nicely into the pin in a connector. Took some serious time to find that problem, as the wire was in the connector, but not making contact with the pin in the connector. Connector was at the very bottom of the playfield also, not near the switches. That red wire seems to go to several optos also.

Quoted from ronaldvg:

This is very strange, because I had Switch 41 and 42 not working also today, but they are not optos, so how did you check the opto leds? Those switches are magnetic switches, at least on the Premium. By the way my problem was a loose V+ wire (the red one) that was not crimped nicely into the pin in a connector. Took some serious time to find that problem, as the wire was in the connector, but not making contact with the pin in the connector. Connector was at the very bottom of the playfield also, not near the switches. That red wire seems to go to several optos also.

Quoted from Lazlo:

My distributior told me they were optos so I assumed they were. I was quite confused looking for them and seeing them not work. I guess when I passed my magnetic screw driver over they registered. I am new and assumed it was an optometrist.

Quoted from chuckwurt:

Do the switches register in test?

Quoted from crunchysue:

In the switch test, the left slingshot registers, and fires, but the right does not.

Quoted from chuckwurt:

Look for broken wires on the right sling shot switches.