Even with a much shorter piece with a bigger gap, I didn't see any issue..I think if your ball is riding the wall that early in the lane then you really do need to fix something with the plunger.

Hmmm.. this might be a better hedorah option than the one I have now, which will require sawing off his back ..

I’ve read all 322 pages of this thread and I completely missed a link to ABE_FLIPS shooter guide fix for download. Is it available anywhere? Looks like an awesome fix!

It’s not a text guide, but refers to the shooter lane metal (ball guide). The fix is basically extending the metal rail on the right side upward with some plastic to keep it even the entire length of the shooter lane.

I see you have a 3d printer. Try this out. you can customize the dimensions in your slicer easily if you wish.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5589060

Congrats! If you need to adjust building height, don't adjust the buikding too low to the play field or you could chip play field at the unprotected side.

I had tinkered a bit with an Abe fix plastic for the 3D printer which can be screwed under the kickout metal protector, thus not needing to glue something. But it turns out that the overall object would be too long, i.e. printed plastic in a pin which gets warmer over time is bound to warp w/o additional affixation. I plan to speak to a metal builder one of these days and see what he thinks (I don‘t have the required tools for metalwork).

Can anyone recommend some double-sided tape can will hold the plastic in place even when it gets warmer but at the same time can be completely removed again w/o leaving any visible spots?

@sorokyl: this matches the pin quite well, can you share a link of the PLA you used?

https://www.proto-pasta.com/collections/all/products/empire-strikes-metallic-black-htpla

Wanna trade wives!? Haha
Congrats man! Mine gets here first thing in the morning!

Just joined the club, man what a fun game...

Just wanted to know however if there's an adjustment for the magnet. Mine drops the ball too much to the right, even though I already adjusted my playfield level.

Also, with regards to the ball riding up to the left hand of mechagodzilla when plunging, my distributor told me it seems the plunger spring was too strong (it was the red one). I replaced it with a green spring, and I've not had a single issue since then.

So this just happpened... Brand new GZ premium, after about 15 plays the top flipper stopped working and closer inspection revealed the coil had fried, melting the plastic sleeve and jamming the flipper mech. A call to the distributer resulted in them sending me a replacement node board (older version) and a used coil (same type). Looking closely I think the end of stroke switch wasn't activating which caused the overheating issue (yes should probably have checked it before play). Distributer said the node board should have stopped the coil from overheating so they think something is wrong with the node board.

Replaced the coil and node, adjusted the end of stroke and have about 30 games and alls seems well so far.

What do people that are more experienced with stern machines think of all of this? Including getting an older version node board (one in machine was e, the one I got was b. and a used coil?)

Anyone with the Mezelmods Toho Theatre, Subway or Noodle buildings… Do those mods stay lit or are they dark? If unlit, do they disappear in the back? I like the look of them but trying to decide whether if they are worth the money.

I have them all plus the light up signs and I think they make a huge improvement over the standard 'flat plastic' buildings and yes, they light up. On of the best mods for the money that you can put on your machine. Don't hesitate, you will really enjoy them.

Just received notice that my machine has shipped! On replacing the stock balls, are there preferred balls for a GZ Premium, or for games with magnets? I like ninja balls, but my recollection is they don't work with games that use magnets.

Also, do you guys swap rubbers immediately? I like Titans but was considering using the stock ones for a bit. I can't decide whether to immediately swap out the flipper rubbers.

Haven't gotten new balls in mine yet personally so interested to hear what people say about this.

I will say that swapping rubbers in this game was cake compared to Jurassic Park. There are like half the amount of rubbers in GZ compared to JP, but there were a couple that took some time to get to just due to having to take stuff off. I played on stock rubbers for like 3-4 weeks or so before I ordered my Titans.

I think its cool your distributor was responsive, had that stuff on hand and could get you back running without you having to wait a long time without being able to play your new game.

I wouldn't worry about board revision unless you are aware of some difference or your game is not playing correctly.

Awesomeness! Thank you! I looked on Thingiverse yesterday and didn’t see it. But here it is now. Muchly appreciated! I’ll print it out and anyone in the Atlanta area who wants to pick one up can have it for free. Happy to spread the 3D printing love!

Thanks TrekTobbyGermany I'll give it a try.

Huuuuge improvement for the game. Yes they all light up, either incorporating the flashers or the sign LEDs as it were. They do not disappear, they are prominently visible and add a huge impact to the look of the game. I do wish they had a little smoother finish but it’s not noticeable once installed

Rdoyle1978 - Are these easily removable for servicing areas of the game in the back? I saw the use of sticky tape in the instructions to put the front of the Theatre on. Especially the VUK feed off the building as I have had to remove that already.

Thanks

I like the Ball Baron Ninja super shiny chrome balls.

Many say not to use these in games with Magnets, but I personally have never had an issue with them in Godzilla, AIQ or Twilight Zone.

I do change them out around every 500 games or so when they get scuffed up, but no magnetism issues.

I was wondering about that. Thanks for sharing.

OFFICIALLY IN THE CLUB! Godzilla Premium just delivered, woohoo!

I haven't had to service my game in any areas back there, but yes they all use the 3M tape to adhere - if I recall correctly, some of the buildings are screwed on using the original holes, but the screws are a MAJOR pain (especially on the leftmost building) - IMO the adhesive is better. (doesn't mean it's perfect!)

So happy to read that Abe figured out the exact issue with the skill shot.
I may try and do a makeshift fix until someone can market a nice professional one.

Has anyone replaced the white GI bulbs in the slings (tow on each side)? I am thinking of putting in Titan UV glow bulbs and their Glow Rings on the slings to add some fun.

Double and triple check that you are actually level side to side at the building. A small amount off will have a big impact.

If still not releasing the ball from the magnet how you like it, adjust the rear right leveler lower a quarter turn at a time until it does.

When the ball is held, it should be at like 7 o’clock. If that drops to the tip of the flipper, somethings off with your level or your playfield is warped. Most likely your level. Should stop to the middle of the flipper.

Thanks again for posting this - I'd like to get to one that fits into the curvature of the pieces eventually, but this is great! Printing now - 9 minutes on ultra-drafty mode. Now where's that VBH ...

I got my Premium yesterday! First-ever NIB for me, and setup was a snap...unpacked, legs on, and playing within about and hour and a half, about half of which was devoted to leveling. So far, I've had none of the issues that I've read about from others here, in particular with the ball launch or multi-ball STDMs (perhaps owing to the extra leveling effort). The game is a lot of fun and plays amazingly well.

However, I have noticed one thing that I'm not thrilled about. On my older games (Road Show, Pinball Magic), even though the playfield can be slid forward before tipping it up, the rear is somewhat anchored down, and the guides are fairly sturdy. On GZ, however, when I raise the front of the playfield, I have to be very careful that it doesn't rotate, and fall and crash into the bottom of the cabinet! I was especially surprised to see this on a Premium. Is this normal for newer games?

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Sadly yes. Not sure why we can't have some sort of safety/locking mechanism similar the old B/W's.

So, my Godzilla Prem and all my Sterns are plugged into a basic power strip. When you turn off the machine from its power button there is a loud speaker buzz - when you turn it back on it stops. When you power down from the power strip there is no speaker buzz. I have installed the after market headphone jack (as done with all other Sterns with no issue) and hooked up a sub-woofer. Sub connections are good and I have seated and re-seated the cables for the headphone jack.

Any idea what is causing the buzz? Would an upgraded clean power power strip fix it or something?

Inspired by and with permission from ABE_FLIPS, we have designed our own shooter lane bracket to ensure clean plunges. As many of you are undoubtedly aware, this game suffers from poor plunges that rattle around and prevent clean exits. In this game, clean exits are pretty important given the vast number of skill shots. Our bracket is a 100% fix and I have provided a video of it below. It is also basically invisible and you can barely tell it's even there. We are offering the bracket for $15 shipped on our website, but we are also happy to provide the STL file free of charge to those who want to print it themselves with a link provided below.

https://lermods.com/shop-by-game/ols/products/abe-flips-godzilla-pinball-shooter-lane-fix

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1HxJ1k_FU1im58LOMSEHx5j7F2E8gFyDs/view?usp=sharing

A little backstory on this. My 14 year old son designed the bracket and it was his first attempt at 3D printing. He is a freshman in high school and is taking an engineering class where they teach 3D printing. He has been asking me for something pinball related to print and I thought this would be a good project. He nailed the bracket on the first try, no modifications needed. All proceeds for this bracket will go to him and I'm hoping this encourages him to keep going. If you use the STL file to print yourself there is absolutely no obligation to send any money, but if you do want to send a couple of dollars, I will make sure he gets it. Just send me a PM for our payment info.

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Edit: due to shipping, packaging, fees etc, we had to adjust the price to be $15 plus $1.99 shipping. You can still print for free.

Very cool. Looks like the STL file is requiring to request access (not a public share).

Edit: Link has been fixed.

So I was going for a non 3D printed more finished look... I used a .07 in thickness vinyl that I had laying around and used a trace rubbing, Indiana Jones style to get the exact dimensions and then cut out and fine-tuned the vinyl to fit I used double-sided 3M tape on the back side to hold it to the guardrail and then used pro gaffers tape, which gives a nice clean factory look to it by being able to hide that rough edge and conform over the top of the rail.

Happy to say this works like a charm I have included a video of some of the shots I took in different speeds so please excuse the video I was holding it with one hand along with some step by step pics of the install

Thanks again ABE_FLIPS

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Awesome! $15 shipped sounds like a fair deal if you don’t have a 3D printer. I can promise you he won’t be making money off this one considering the time involved to print, pack and ship. Thx Lermods and Abe Flips!

What fooflighter did is his I thought this fix was supposed to be, just covering the top of the right ball guide so that the ball can't fall on top of it. The Lermods fix is something else, right? Basically making the plunge go more towards the left to avoid the ball guide altogether?

Shooter lane fix is all the rage! Ok here is a paranoid question. Made my own fix and adhered with a pretty darn strong double sided foam tape. Possible this will pull up finish on the black rail someday if it is removed? That finish seems to be heavy duty so I didn’t think so. But maybe others know more about the manufacture of that piece than I.

fooflighter cool to see all the different fixes, the skillshot works!

My idea, was to keep the ball 0.7 inches away from the right ballguide until it drops down onto the playfield. So that the ball can't fall onto the ballguide on the right hand side al it leaves the shooterlane. As long as it works its fine, right?
Lermods took the very short lengh approach, and event that seems to work.
Great to see all those successful skilshots, I have seen too many rattling balls there... I guess I'm already traumatized

Ours is 1.7 mm thick and the tape we use is paper thin. Just played three more games and not a single rejection. I wonder if this will work on Rush, which has similar plunge issues.

AIQ could benefit with something like this. It has a terrible side kick where the shooter merges into the orbit.

Thanks for this! I just placed an order for one.

I did as well! Thanks!

Anyone with a game from the late September or October runs get their game through Marco?

My shooter lane ramp definitely overlaps the ball guide but not sure if it matters.

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Got the powdercoat done, went with the Grecian Gold which as its turns out is the same as Halloween. I didn't realise until afterwards. I am happy with it and its a bit different. I know it won't be for everyone and the photos do not really do it justice. Anyway I know there is a few people thinking of going the gold path so thought I would share. I definitely need to change the flipper buttons now though, the yellow does not work. Maybe light up green.

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I was hoping someone would make one of these available if I need it.

My suggestion would be concerning the look of it. Extending the length of the printed part so it ended evenly with where the shooter ramp tip ends on the right would really make it look more like it was supposed to be there in my opinion. Ending just short of the end of the ramp looks strange to me.

...but, if it works, it works.

Two things. 1. You can't tell it's there unless you look for it or I told you it was there, especially from the player viewpoint. 2. The printer bed can't handle more than ~9" prints so you'd be looking at two pieces to print and mate together, not to mention a longer box to ship in.

Does the 3D print file tell me the dimensions? I have lexan I can cut a piece from if I know the dimensions.

Thanks!