Looks like that’s part of the most recent firmware update?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/godzilla-tokyo-neon-sign-mod/page/17#post-7116094

Question about playfield pitch. Finally got a digital level and it reads 6.8 at the building, but only 6.2 at the flippers. Should it be 6.8 at the flippers too?

Report back after you play a few games! The left ramp should be a lot more flowy. I even hit it by ACCIDENT sometimes.

6.5 at the flippers (or whatever you're going for). Just measure down there. The playfield isn't going to be dead perfectly flat

Same issue, so I decided to split the difference and I do 6.5 at the center of the PF. I think it's a personal preference for how you like the game to play.

You can certainly do this, your mod should have come with a bulb socket adapter that is meant to go onto a GI bulb on the back, run a wire to the back of the sign. Then in the GUi for configuring the sign, you can enable this feature. It should be in the instructions. If not ask Davey.. I like this feature a lot.

Thanks for your responses.
Yes, there is a setting on the back of the sign where you just need to move a connector and then attach a matrix wire and send it down to a GI bulb (and that allows the dimming/off when the GI goes off as opposed to constant on).

I was given all of these components with my package (which was very handsomely packaged I might add...thx again, Davey).

Really just looking for a vote as to what people thought about constant on vs. dim/off with GI off.

Sounds like you like the feature of it going off with the GI. I haven't tried that setting yet, but it seems pretty straightforward.

By the way (and not to jump on any one or another creators bandwagons), but today I also took the opportunity to install Doug's flaming speaker light kits. I'd never seen them in person and Oh $h#t these things are bad to the damn bone! I mean wow man...I knew they'd be cool, but these things are absolutely badass!!!

Hoping to FINALLY get mine installed this weekend. Had them for months, but my pin arrived only a few weeks ago. Can't wait...

Same here. They've been sitting down in the game room for about a month, finally had some time to install them today. I had to undo and redo those little micro screws that go into the monitor a couple times over just to get everything right, not that the online instructions weren't good, there was just a couple little steps that I had to stumble over, lol.
They look SO cool. Hats off!!

Is there also a Youtube video on the install, or just the online instructions? I used the online instructions on my IMDN, but I prefer a video when available

www speakerlightkits.com.
Site comes up, choose the "manuals" tab there on the left. There's a "flaming flames" icon that pops up (along with the other manuals) and just click that and you're off to the races.

Btw, and on a nother note...I did the light sensor addition to the Tokyo Sign mod (to dim/turn off when GI turns off), and I think I like that result

Yep there is a jumper in the back that needs to be moved from off to on position. In addition I believe the red side of the two wire plug goes on the TX pin on the back of the sign. ( Only the one wire as the other is free off the pin)

Now what I had discovered, when you boot the game the sign will power as normal and dim as normal with a slight delay but works awesome. However if you went into the game settings and adjusted the LED from lets say 100% to like 60% , and the brightness I believe from 255 to like 200. I found when the game called for it's firs dimming effect the sign would dim as normal but not restore when the GI's come back on. Once I changed the settings of the LED inserts and GI brightness back to 100% and 255 (default) All was good once again.

Just something to know before you or someone else may encounter this and start pulling hair out or make Davey pulls his out lol.

Thanks for the excellent pointers!!
I can see how dimming the GI a bit might negatively affect the sensor, so appreciate that advice!

I would recommend connecting the GI dimming cable as there is a setting in the software where you can set the dimming to your liking. So if you dont like the sign to go off completely, you can set it to any brightness level between off and full brightness during GI dimming. I did not like the sign to fade off as i missed the insert information. But i like the sign to adapt to GI brightness

Just tried it out and had a very good game, 2.3B. I was playing well today so I don’t attribute it entirely to the adjustment. But the shot did feel more open and the game flowed better. Cheers.

I picked up an extra Mechagodzilla from Pinball Life for my premium. I can picture an airball breaking the arm someday, better safe than sorry. It seems like they're already sold out.

https://www.pinballlife.com/mechagodzilla-figure.html

I'm sure this has happened to me before, and I just never noticed: Hitting two balls perfectly during multiball so each hits a different ramp and crosses at the building in the center at the same time.

It looked really cool!

Our Computers Detect Coin in Pocket.

Had a ball get stuck in the building last night as it was moving after I qualified for Monster Zero. It came out of the scoop after I selected that powerup directly to my left flipper as I shot it up into the building and it got stuck since the building was moving and the building stopped moving mid-level. After ball search happened and all the coils fired, the building moved up and the ball came out.

There's a reason the balls drain STDM after godzilla multiball is activated and the building is moving. Elwin himself even stated that, in this thread. But to each their own.

Part 1 of the “How to get to Planet X” strategy has been released. Now that you have your billion point score, let’s take you to Planet X! Link is below.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/how-to-score-a-billion-on-godzilla-and-more/page/4#post-7142483

I disagree! You can start Tesla before starting rampage and it will carryover. As for surviving, I agree it can be challenging. If the goal is to survive, then right ramp ski jump is the technique to use. If the ski jump is hard, then right ramp to left ramp. If you miss, then be slightly early and clip the magna post on the left. Ignore the left spinner shot on rampage if you want to survive.

If they were going sdtm probably check your playfield level even if you've inst

That may be the intent but out of 1000 games played I have had very very few GZ multiball with triple drain. Usually I can save all 3 if the game is properly leveled. At least two.. and even rarer in those 1000 games had it caused any weird issue..

The fact of the matter is that you get more ball save time if you don't triple drain, and it feels "less bad" especially for casual people who don't know who designed the game and don't give a shit what they intended, or why. They just are trying to keep the ball from draining

I will say properly leveled games don't need a mod to prevent it. But I completely understand anyone that wants to install one

Even more fun is two immediate shots to the same ramp, love seeing both balls coming down the habitrail together!

A properly leveled game is supposed to drain stdm on Godzilla multiball. If it's not doing that, then your game isn't properly leveled.

Again, Elwin himself has said, in this thread, it is supposed to do that.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stern-godzilla-official-owners-club/page/128#post-6718166

I heard him say in this interview that the balls should hit the tip of left flipper if you hold it up when the balls drop down. He has also said level the game left-to-right putting your level in front of the building. I have done this very carefully with a digital level and my game behaves exactly like this. If I hold the left flipper up, most of the time no balls drain. Rarely one ball drains. Never seen 2 or more drain.

Start at time 35:05

Exactly. Usually for me the first ball hits tip of left flipper, and that knocks the others away from drain

Posted this in the mod thread too. Got my speaker lights and installed, along with a Godzilla and King Ghidora plastic silhouettes I cut out. Looks awesome!

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Yeah interesting to hear that. But basically it's not supposed to be going back directly to a flipper to be able to get a clean shot to a ramp while the building is moving.

I'm still having this problem where the mechagodzilla spinner randomly rotates left to right for a little bit. It'll stop for a while then rinse repeat all throughout the game. I know a few others have reported this as well, has anyone figured out a fix??
I really think it's code related since I didn't have this problem before the latest code update, but I do know others reported having it the whole time.

Seems like the machine does not know its position at times so it tries to bring it back to where it belongs. Could be the connector or the position switch of the mech (opto maybe?).

Interesting thought, I'll look in the manual to see what parts are involved

This video is great! Deep dive into Annihilation Bonus. Do not switch Cities. This is were the big points are. He gets a 707 Million Carnage Bonus

There should be a switch to set each position. It would then rotate until the switch triggers. If the connection is lost it thinks it moved out of position and tries to move it back. Most of my tech experience is in older games, but that is how they work. Not sure if it is a microswitch or opto on GZ though.

So looking for a little bit of help here.

I just installed the clear pop bumper. I shaved down the tip of it so that it was virtually the same exact size as the white one that I replaced. I was putting them basically tip to tip so they touched the underside of eachother and were nearly identical.

However after putting everything back together, the saucer coil is not firing when the clear bumper is hit. I have tried with my fingers and stuff and it's simply not firing at all.

If I do the coil test however, it fires no problem.

Anyone know what I have messed up? Could it be that the tip of the clear one is still just a bit too long and the leaf switch is closed so it's just not firing when it's being depressed? If that is the case I wasn't sure if the coil test would fire or not.

Any help is appreciated. Thanks.

My Mecha ramp rotates back and forth non stop during all my games, and sometimes for no reason while in attract mode. I've been talking to Stern about it after trying a few things with my distro's tech, and they think it might be the sensor board. I'm waiting to receive it, but I'm not looking forward to disassembling the bottom part of the Mecha shield to change it. Really hope that will fix it, my game is really hard to play with no shot to the ramp or spinner.

Adjust the switch to have less gap. If you push the switch with your finger from the underside of the pf it should fire. Lift the playfield and see how much gap is in the switch.

I think the problem is that the switch is actually depressed the whole time because there is no gap between any of the leaves on the switch. When I look at the leaf switch for the flippers the gap is obvious. Attached is a pic of how it is at resting position.

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Has your Mecha been like this from day 1? Do you know what code version came with your game?

I had the same issue after changing mine out. You can just slightly bend the switch to create a very small gap. Press on the clear skirt from the top side while looking at the switch underneath to make sure it connects when pressed.

my right side sling is firing off now and then for no reason

So yeah the problem was definitely that the switch was making contact the whole time but now I'm even more confused.

I took it apart again and then I put the normal white one back and tightened the screws. However after I did that, even with the one that came, the switch was being depressed when I had everything screwed tightly down.

The only way to get it to work properly was basically to loosen the screws holding it to the base, making the spring push up the ring that the ball hits a bit more so that the switch isn't depressed. However now the whole pop bumper is "loose" in the sense that it's not tight and every time you hit it, the whole thing moves around a little since it's not screwed all the way down.

I don't know how when I installed the normal white one back, it was now doing this. I am guessing maybe I did something wrong when putting it back together? I'm starting to wonder if maybe I have the part that goes right on the playfield, turned 90 degrees the wrong way, because 2 of the holes are raised a bit and 2 aren't. Maybe that little extra space is causing this issue.

Either way I'm done messing with it tonight because I'm tired of soldering this crap lol.

Do you happen to have any kind of star post lights or anything like that?

I had that problem with my JP and it ended up being the wire that was going from the star post light was causing the switch to trigger because the light had rotated a little bit.

no its stock only added plastic protectors

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From that pic it looks like you actually do have star post lights. Your slingshots are glowing.

Making Progress! My first time winning all 4 cities, but I didn't make it to the last Tier 2 battle.

Along with my new high score of 8.2 Billion, I picked up a few more bests for me so far including a 781M Destruction Jackpot!

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Does anyone know if Godzilla will be receiving Co-op and the difficulty modes (like in Mando)?

It would be amazing if these features were standard across all Sterns.

It will not. I give Bond a better shot at having that it's a Dwight thing the game coder.

The Mecha shield was fine when I got the game on code 0.96. The issue started happening sightly during next next code upgrade (but not immediately with code 0.97) and just kept getting worse and worse. Still happening with most current code.

So I did have it installed properly but the skirt tip was just too long still and it was keeping the switch always activated.

I ended up shaving the tip of the skirt even more until I got it just perfect. Took some time and trial and error until I got it perfect, but now I got everything in there and it's working great and looks fantastic!

Got some more comparison pics at the link below:

https://imgur.com/a/PKRDL6F

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