Nice! I’m going with 5.25 kickers, JBL woofer and a fosi amp. All in about $220. First time upgrading the speaker system. I’m hoping it’s worth it

I refuse to put those stupid metal flippers on my game. They change how the game feels and shoots.

Thanks, FP. Very helpful.

Such a happy guy

I am cause I have my original flippers and my game flips amazing

I went the same speakers and even without the amp it's worth it. I'll be adding my amp hopefully on Sunday.

I do notice these machined-aluminum flippers catching on, and I will say this: a precise, tight flipper bushing changes how the ball rolls from the flipper ballguide to the flipper; it amplifies hop if your ballguide-to-bat gap is big'ish. The tiny bit of play in a factory, plastic bushing is important. If you take it out - as I assume you do in a precise, aluminum design - you may discover you don't like how things like bounce passes feel. I'm not critical of the new product. I've never tried it, so I can't offer an opinion. I *have* however experimented with custom flipper bushings and they resulted in considerable changes in feel - enough that I went back to the stock bushing. I do think finely tuned flippers make a big difference though, so I will happily try this product sometime soon.

I play in the dark, and there are too many moments where there are only flashing inserts. I love the effect but I need some GI all the time! Also, I'm gonna need to look into a sound mod...

Besides that, it's a great shooting game. Still debating on some figures for the game or not.

I went with frosted for now. Looks a lot like old time pinball games with incandescent lamps. Very warm and cosy. Colors look great. The clear warm whites look great too but not as warm and soft to the eyes as frosted.

When did they change the plastic under the bridge? I see mine does not go over the magna grab like some that I see.

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Nice backlit door mod I made for a friend....

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Shortly after the first run of premiums. Longer plastics were getting broken by the bridge banging against them.

You’ll see this printed, but you should do it right away. Even with the shortened plastic under the bridge, the bridge action will still chip away at the edge of the plastic. Putting a washer in the coil sleeve limits the motion just enough to save the plastic. There’s a good video in this thread somewhere. I just wanted to alert you not to wait as damage is happening without you realizing.

Other than that, enjoy!

I can see this one is already damaged a bit..if you don't wanna put the washer fix in right now then at least, before you play any more, pull the glass and stick some piece of rubber there where it's taking damage. That will keep it from getting more messed up

Any link to the video?

blockquote cite="#7090314">I can see this one is already damaged a bit..if you don't wanna put the washer fix in right now then at least, before you play any more, pull the glass and stick some piece of rubber there where it's taking damage. That will keep it from getting more messed up

Here it is (not my video, but the one I watched to help me do this):

Very quick fix. Thanks to the person who made the YouTube video.

What is that washer going to do to the plunger and/or coil stop over time? It is not the same size or shape as the coil stop. There is a hole in the center and I wonder as to the hardness of the washer metal vs the plunger and coil stop metal. I'd wager rebuilds will become much more frequent.

I wonder what the washer size is?

I tried the washer but was having an issue when I lifted the pf sometimes the washer went sideways and really stopped the plunger. I thought about glueing it in or something but that seemed like a bad idea. I finally put a couple small bits of thin adhesive felt where the bridge hits the plastic. It’s only been a few days so time will tell. I’m sure it will chip through the felt eventually. Also have those rubber furniture dots I may try.

Possibly another manufacture coil stop that is Just a bit longer than stock would be better.

I actually picked up a replacement stainless piece to replace that last night from a friend. It says I need to remove the back half of the bridge, but doesn't say how to do that. Is it a simple part to remove?

I'm not sure about the mod, but you can definitely remove & replace the plastic above/behind the magna grab without removing any of the bridge.

I removed my plastic after it broke (mine was newer design) and just filed/sanded it back a little ways so it can't get hit... I may make a replacement clear piece in the future to allow seeing the captive ball better.

Couldn't find a stickied post that included a printable copy of the rules, so I reformatted the wiki from tiltforums.
Anyone is free to edit further!

https://docs.google.com/document/d/1XFwsmDDAWb5SisAwrktZP7AqpCMgItob0iPWGFUVHhk/preview

He FINALLY showed up yesterday! My 1st NIB. Been following and contributing to these threads for months, and after ordering in February he's here. Honestly say it's the 1st time I've seen and played this game last night. Oh my god, what a beautiful pin! Plays pretty good right out of the box. Need to level it a tad more, but, otherwise plays great. This was so worth the wait. Can't wait to get some more plays in tonight and start adding those mods I've been collecting for months.

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For my fix to prevent damage to the magna grab plastic below the bridge, I had a small piece of left over rubber pond liner (.020" thick) and cut a small circular piece that I glued onto the coil stop in June. My Prem was part of the May production run and has the shortened plastic, but the plastic still had a small nick from the bridge that I noticed in June, and haven't noticed any more damage to the plastic since my fix. I complained to Stern and they sent me 2-replacement plastics - I haven't yet installed the new plastic because I want to wait a few months longer to see if my coil stop fix works in the long run, which so far it has.

I wonder if the glued rubber onto the coil stop would also work in the flipper coils to prolong the life of the stops, which many people on this forum say should be replaced with non-Stern stops. I have noticed metal flakes on the cabinet floor beneath the flippers which is the sign that the stops are wearing out. I have already purchased replacement flipper coil stops from Pinball Life to have on hand when the stops require replacement. I think I'll install the glued rubber onto the flipper stops and see what happens, and post the result in a year or two when the results will be more meaningful.

The flakes are because Stern's cheap stops break apart and wear prematurely. Replace them with aftermarket stops and they'll be fine for years of home play. Adding rubber will shorten the flipper stroke and mess up gameplay, and isn't necessary.

I got a couple questions about leveling my pin. I've been playing it since I got it 2 weeks ago with the threads on the levels just matched to my JP until I had a chance to check it today. I checked it today and need to fix the pitch and the angle down by the flippers was 6.3%.

1. Is the angle you want (6.5 in this case) supposed to be at the flippers? Or in the middle of the play field? I know when I measure the top vs. the flippers it is not identical. It is steeper up top. I also remember this happening in my JP however I don't recall the exact answer to this.

2. I also have the same question about the pitch - where do you want to measure that? Ideally it should be throughout the whole PF but if it's not possible to get it 0 all the way through, is down by the flippers the right spot?

3. I am having trouble lifting my pin because of the current way it sits and there just isn't much room behind/around it. What is the best way to go about lifting it up so I can adjust the leg levelers? Like am I going to have to slide it out, lift and adjust, then slide it back? Or is there some other trick that you all use to level pins that have a pin right next to it where the backs are up against the wall?

Get down on all fours under the pin and lift with your back. It’s actually not as bad as it sounds and pretty effective as you’re only lifting an inch or so.

I like to set sterns at 6.8°, with a 12" smart level, with it setting between the flippers. Others may have diff ideas, but works well here.

Will definitely give that a try later tonight, thanks.

1) For pitch it's really a matter of preference and finding a spot where you're happy with how it plays. On mine if it's lower by the flippers and more near the top of the playfield I set it at about the midpoint at the flippers and then dial it in from there.

2) For level I do it at the flippers and at a spot near the building. If it's level in those two spots then you should be good to go.

One trick is to get on all fours under the pin and use your back as a jack while you turn the leg leveler. Works pretty well.

Thanks for the tips I will give those a go later.

I have already broken a billion twice in like 25 games so I hope changing the angle/pitch to be correct won't mess me up lol!

Nice car!

Okay thanks for the pointers with leveling I just got under my machine and lifted with my back and yeah, was pretty simple.

I got it 6.5 angle and 0 pitch at the flippers.

It's 7.0 at the building and 0 pitch up there too.

This .5 angle difference between top/bottom of playfield is consistent with my JP as well, although I still don't really understand it since it should be a flat/straight playfield lol.

Haven't seen a TA like that since high school, nice!

Make it steeper than you think than shallow it out. Steeper pins make trapping and ball control easier. 6.8 plus is my preference. The bubble is cut in half on the top line of the factory level.

I just looked inside my GZ Pro cab and see metal brass looking flakes over my speaker and coin box. Is it from the sling coils or flipper or both. I have new stops ready to install on the flippers?

It's the Stern stops. Throw the pinball Life stops in and you will be good to go.

Over the coin bix is the flipper. Most likely only the flipper stops are the issue. I've had zero issue with any other stops other than flippers.

I haven’t checked my GZ, but I have other pins that have a slight difference in pitch top and bottom. The playfield is wood, and different things are bolted to it with different weights. It has some level of flexibility, so I think it makes sense.

Is anyone else having an issue on the pro where the right spinner is slow or sticking?
I've found that the left axel of it rubs on the underside of the defence barrier plastic.

I put a clear round dot you would use to keep cabinet doors quiet under the bridge and have played hundreds of games with no damage.You can find this and photos in previous posts by Hayfarmer

Same

I've noticed since the latest code update that when I started a game sometimes on my premium the mechagodzilla spinner rotates left and right for a bit and then it'll just stop. After it stops it functions as expected. Anyone else have this issue?

Mine was doing this before the latest code, and does it for a full game sometimes. Definitely a problem there, no idea what to do.

There's apparently footage of this happening during NYCPC qualifying. May track down later to confirm it's on a full-speed shot.

Have been trying to get my shooter rod tuned up for my new Premium I just set up (first NIB). Felt pretty rough and not smooth. Had a lot of grease on the rod, going to try wiping that off a bit. But I also notice that there seems to be no plastic sleeve inside the assembly. I pulled off my new Mando premium shooter rod and can’t find one there either. Is this normal for Stern? I was expecting a plastic sleeve like on my JJP machines.

Edit: pulling rod off my DP also shows no plastic sleeve. Weird that when I look up the stern shooter assembly for purchase it mentions a sleeve.

Thanks. I've ordered replacement optos. While waiting I checked the VUK opto and it works flawlessly when testing, even fast movement. Is there another opto that can cause balls not registered when entering the building?

Any guesses on when code will hit 1.0?