Hah well good (?) to know I wasn't alone with the loose coin box. Fingers crossed it didn't nick anything else up but hey, that's life I guess. Stern support got back to me this morning and confirmed I'll need a new coil, reached out to my dealer and had them put in the warranty order. I'll try soldering it back together soon to see if I can get it working while waiting for the replacement.

My flippers seem like they're out of alignment, is there a guide on how to adjust flipper angle on a modern Stern like GZ?

That was you? NICE..
i have watched them all but obviously it didn't all stick the first time around will definitely check them out a few times, great videos for anyone else interested in getting a better understanding of the rules and higher scores. Tha ks for making them available to us!

There is little divit on the playfield that should be inline with the tip of the flipper. I had to adjust my left flipper as it was a bit low. Shoots better now.

Right, I see that, and that confirms my flippers need adjusting, but how do you actually adjust them?

This vid is for a slightly different issue, but the adjustment info will work.

Loose Coin boxes... on a premium or LE?
Geebus; a new cost cutting low for Stern.
I'd be pissed if my coinbox was banging around inside my LE.

I still don't get what needs to happen once those Allen screws are loosened or tightened. Once loosened, the flipper will move freely, and you need to re-tighten with the flipper in the proper alignment?

yes, put the bat in the correct lower position with the mech resting against the stop. Then tighten it down. Also you want to make sure to have a bit of space between the bottom of the bat and the bushing. Marcos sells a nice little tool, but you can also use a credit card or similar.

It will flop around when it is loose. So then you tighten it up until it just grips, and then a tiny bit more so the flipper moves when you get to the end of stroke of the flipper. Then check your play up and down so you are not pinching. The flipper should move just a little bit up and down and not bind at this point. You can tell it is right by the feel and sound as you grip the flipper bat itself.

Finally, you adjust your angle until it is pointing correctly. Tighten a bit more, check your play up and down again, confirm angle, and then lock that puppy down tight. Final check for binding, and then start playing.

All the checks and rechecks are because it is easy to move out of position as you tighten, and that you never want a binding flipper.

As does PBL:
https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PBL-300-0162-00
I'm sure pinball resource sells them too.

It's a sign!

Screenshot_20220707-163440 (resized).png

Sorry took a bit... lost my coinbox key for a day. Finally found it and finished the install:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/10WiVu9qcOM8Je6EmuRCoee6j5SLTbGIO/view?usp=drivesdk

It's three separate pieces, it does have a nice 3 d effect you can't really see in the video. For what it costs its not a bad topper at all considering how much an official stern one would be if finally released. I like it.

Yes! Thank you so much for posting this! I was having this problem just before I moved few months ago (I'm definitely not "14 billion" good) and have been digging through here for someone with a similar issue and found nothing. I eventually just turn that opto off in the menu to keep my scores reasonable (thusly locking myself out any game modes that need that ramp) Recently ordered replacements as a last resort, now that I can get back working on it again, and I figured I'd take another look just in case and found this. Not looking forward to pulling that ramp, but I'll do it for the honest scores!

Wow! Just experienced my first Terror of mech mode! That was a blast, holy shit was I just flailing, but I have no idea if I got a good score on it.

So Karl iePinball was just streaming Godzilla and the call out said Karl Karl Karl! Does the new code use insider connect to say your name while you’re playing now or is it all mere coincidence??

No thats specifically for Karl when he restarts a game, it reads his Insider Connected name

Still having trouble with flippers giving me free points.
I thought I fixed it by tightening the right ramp opto on back side of backboard but the problem is back. Here’s a video. Wish I could get some footage during gameplay. I went back to add some but of course it stopped doing it. Doesn’t show much except in the beginning, I got it in test mode to show opto tripping when hitting flippers. I’ve got the opto to trip before in test with a bang to the playfiled with my fist, but not in this video. Also the first time I went to check the opto a week ago I touched the board and it tripped the sensor. That’s why I tightened it to begin with. Figured it was vibrating while playing. It worked for like a game or two. Maybe somebody will be able to help. It’s driving me nuts.

Great idea! Never thought of doing that. Thank You! I will try that this weekend

Just spitballing a couple possible troubleshooting ideas:

Was there a point in time that it started acting up after not having been a problem before, and if so was anything worked on or done on the machine right before it started happening?

Also, have you tried disconnecting the mods to see if it still happens with them disconnected?

This will be more down to the diffuser plastic being used (or not used). The light output of the LED strips won't be any different between the two.

It seems to have popped up out of the blue. Maybe it happened when installed mods and I didn’t notice, but I can’t recall. I’ll try to run it without towers? Last mod I put on was speaker light kit. It seems to have been working all this time though, and popped up weeks after I had all mods on it.
Seems like since last update it started it. I’m sure it’s simple but I just can’t trace it yet.

Has anybody recently received their order from Doug? When did you order?

Does anyone have an estimate on the time from the distro telling you your game is about to be built till the time it ships?
Thanks

I just got my GZ premium in yesterday. It’s my first pin. Assume I know nothing because i don’t. Any recommendations for adjustments/set up for the game? The dist set it all up in my house for me, but he just did the basic standard set up out of the box.

The level on the inside of the game by the shorter rod has the bubble at the top, shouldn’t it be in the middle? As previously stated I’m new to this, I want to learn and take good care of this best I can. Teach me O wise pinside ones! Lol

So the middle of the bubble is roughly 6.5degrees, which is standard recommendations from Stern. Most people find enjoyment at 6.8-7.2 (give or take). This is all personal preference. All the way at the top makes it seem like its set much higher, as I think 6.8 might be about 3/4 of the way up the marker. Theres two ways to approach this. The quick way is to download a leveling app on your phone and check front-to-back leveling and side-to-side as well. Though many, including me, found the app to be slightly off. Thankfully when I got my first pin, I already had a dedicated digital leveler from my art framing, so used that that to make adjustments.

After that, it is recommended to lower the power from your ball eject into the shooter guide to help increase its longevity. From there, play and see if you notice anything "off" in the way the ball travels and such. But at the very least, start with proper leveling through a more accurate reading (instead of using the bubbles).

Make sure the bubble tube is fully seated in the plastic cradle that is screwed into the side rail. Both my GZ and recent JP weren't properly seated and the bubble was all the way at the top. Use the bubble as a guide. A digital level is useful.

Looks like the right ramp opto to me. Poor connection, misaligned or loosely mounted opto or bad opto.

Worst case, I would recommend replacing the right ramp optos and going from there since it sounds like you looked into the other possibilities.

Do as the others recommended, but if you don't have a digital level (a regular bubble level can be used for leveling the side to side) - generally screwing the front leveling pads all the way in (short as possible) and the rears half way out will get the game in the 6.5 to 6.8 range. The rear all the way out (make sure the upper nut is fully filled with the leveler screw or the game can become unstable) will usually be in the 7.0 to 7.2 range.

It may take some minor adjustments (turn a leveler 1/4 to half turn at a time) to get it fully dialed in and the upper magnet releasing to the upper left flipper properly.

One thing that a lot of people forget is to turn down your backbox brightness for game play. Really cuts down reflections.

Got them 2 weeks ago, ordered mid-Jan. Worth the wait.

Tab for the upper flipper successfully soldered back on and up and running again, though now my right bumper is randomly firing during gameplay so I'll have to tinker with that. Only had time for a couple quick (bad) games over lunch after the soldering so I didn't get a chance to look at the bumper at all.

I hate the upper flipper when magna grab drops ball on it. It almost feels like ball is dropped too far away from flipper.

I hit it up right ramp a lot with a weak shot and it drains SDTM!

Anyone else have this issue or has it been discussed previously???

Likely the switch is just gapped too close.

.1 degrees shift to the left with the legs can make a world of difference. People have had both extremes of the issue, either too far away or hits the top of the bat. This of course if the playfield and everything else is nice and flat.

Any idea where that is in the settings? Thanks.

Standard adjustment #72, Gameplay Backbox Brightness

For those that are modding their pop bumper to a clear body, be aware of the following (most of you know this, but there's a few newer hobbiest here that may not have restoration experience):

The clear bumper skirt I was supplied is too-long compared to stock (see pic). As you need to remove the RGB light to work on this, you'd be bummed to discover this fact after you reassemble everything. Let's get it right the first time, during your install:

You need to VERY carefully shorten the actuator on the clear bumper skirt. [Note: shortening is considerably easier than re-gapping the spoon switch on the bumper. Spoon switches are notoriously finicky, and it takes careful work and the right gapping tools to do that job properly; best to avoid it if possible. You can screw up a spoon switch pretty easily if you don't know what you're doing]

The amount of shortening needed is tiny. I'd suggest ever-so-slightly filing/sanding the tip to a rounded end. I used a hobby belt sander; hand sanding or filing will work if you're careful. Reinstall with the body and base, screw it down, and go into the switch test. Confirm operation (off in neutral; on when the skirt is slightly depressed). Better to have the switch constantly on when you start, with the post too-long. Remove, sand/file off a tiny bit(I mean TINY), and reinstall. Repeat this until you have reliable operation.

The clear body looks great, a fine mod to those that suggested it, above. Good luck.
IMG_1970 (resized).JPGIMG_1971 (resized).JPGIMG_1975 (resized).JPG

Since updating to code .97 The new oxygen destroyer ball save feature will not register building shots. I also noticed last night during monster zero mode the building through shot/ switch also would not register effectively killing the mode. I have tested the switch (#53) and opto (#52) the building through shot involves and both register every time in the test. Also worth noting the Godzilla multiball and destruction jackpots using these same switch and opto function perfectly and always have. Has anybody experienced this can anyone help me understand how i can correct to enjoy these other modes?

I've noticed that weaker / slower shots through the building won't "count" if they don't hit that rollover switch fast enough after the opto. I've seen this in all modes, but I wonder if that threshold is different depending on what the building is lit for? It's kind of frustrating since it seems like it should just count anything that hits both switches in sequence, regardless of speed. I suppose it's to avoid weak shots to the building and then the wallop lane, but honestly that should still count in my eyes since it's tricky to do. I'm not sure if that's the issue you're seeing, but it's the best explanation I can come up with.

THIS is the number 1 problem with GZ. On mine it will hold it fine, but at the last second will shift slightly to the right and make the loop nearly impossible to hit. I’m no engineer (toxicologist), but I feel that this could be fixed by changing either the strength or the pulse of the magnet. +1000 points for anyone who solves this problem. I have had multiple 10 billion + potential games ruined by not getting a consistent drop from the magnet where it isn’t at the tip of the flipper. First-world pinball player problems I know… but still!

Interesting. Mine at the lest second pulses to the left giving me a perfect flipper shot. I wonder if there is a "home" the ball goes to when the mag is juiced up to full power right before the drop that needs to be aligned correctly. (Like a north pole on the magnet)

Is your magnet tight. Mine was loose from the factory, took an Allen wrench to the top bolt and have it a little snug...

Also, using PinMonks Tibetan Breeze fan on the magnet

Do you have any other power fluctuations going on in your room, ie multiple pins on one circuit, computers or high wattage items...

Lastly, reseat connectors and consider reflowing solder if it looks like it needs it

Thanks for posting this, it's informative and timely (just ordered a set last week from zit). I did the all clear pop replacements on a space shuttle a while back without needing to modify anything, would have taken the same approach with these. Thanks for saving me from that WTF moment.

Gojirra has landed in Hawaii !!

608E0466-348B-4059-99D1-07B9B6984871 (resized).jpegGojira!

This all seems like sound advice. Unfortunately, I’m a way better player than I am a fixer of anything… but I think I could attempt your first suggestion. Thank you.

I've never had anyone in years of supplying these skirts ever tell me they were too long.

I just went to the garage and checked; and these are spot on the correct size for Gottlieb and williams.
I checked against some unknown white repos and they were indeed a bit long. Mine looks like they may be a 0.02inches longer.
Weird. Personally; I'd just adjust the switch gap as I have the tool and it different isn't that much.

Similar to others, mine also does a last second pulse to the left in order to make the flip easier. If yours is going right then it sounds like you might have an issue.

Zitt, thanks so much for supplying the clear pop bumper parts. Take a look at the pic I posted, above. The skirt actuator was roughly 1/16" too long. That's way more than any gapping of the spoon switch will accomodate without major adjustments. Perhaps Stern is using a different-spec skirt in their pop bumpers? I'd be happy to send you the old pop bumper skirt I removed from my GZ for your inspection. The picture shows the difference clearly.

edit: I measured each. The stock Stern GZ skirt is 1.77mm shorter (.07"). That's quite a bit for a spoon switch. Usually spoon switch tolerance/actuation is around 0.5mm
IMG_1980 (resized).JPGIMG_1981 (resized).JPG

It's not fair to measure from top to bottom like that. The mating surface is the flat part of the skirt.
That said; the difference is between the bottom of the skirt and the tip. I'm guessing the difference is much less than 0.07inches.

It's really immaterial at this point. The mold is made and parts are bought. No changing it at this point given the costs involved.
As I stated; it's been this way for years (on my product) - so not a wide spread problem at this point.