(Topic ID: 300354)

Stern Godzilla Official Owners Club King Elwin

By beltking

2 years ago


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“What model did you order?”

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Topic index (key posts)

25 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items. (Show topic index)

There are 27,180 posts in this topic. You are on page 246 of 544.
#12251 1 year ago

Scored a goal but didn't get the achievement. The led popped out of the left spot during gz multiball got hit by a ball and ended up just like that. Glad I saw it happen lol.

20220704_202919 (resized).jpg20220704_202919 (resized).jpg
#12252 1 year ago

One in a million shot, doc.

Quoted from Apinplayer:

Scored a goal but didn't get the achievement. The led popped out of the left spot during gz multiball got hit by a ball and ended up just like that. Glad I saw it happen lol.
[quoted image]

#12253 1 year ago
Quoted from Travahontas:

Thanks Craig! I did some more troubleshooting tonight with no progress. The opto seems to reliably trigger and I've never seen it fail in switch test. I'm tempted at this point to just throw parts at it and get a new opto pair... :-/

Is your Vuk opto Switch # 63 working as well? That's the one down at the bottom of the Vuk shaft versus the top Vuk exit opto.

#12254 1 year ago
Quoted from fooflighter:

Is your Vuk opto Switch # 63 working as well? That's the one down at the bottom of the Vuk shaft versus the top Vuk exit opto.

The VUK fires reliably when the ball enters and doesn’t fire willy nilly at other times … so I don’t think I have a reason to suspect it…?

#12255 1 year ago
Quoted from Travahontas:

The VUK fires reliably when the ball enters and doesn’t fire willy nilly at other times … so I don’t think I have a reason to suspect it…?

Gotcha, that makes sense. Yeah probably has something to do with that top opto I'm guessing it gets a lot of vibration abuse from the rattling of that ball hitting the top of that shaft every time it ejects

#12256 1 year ago
Quoted from fooflighter:

Gotcha, that makes sense. Yeah probably has something to do with that top opto I'm guessing it gets a lot of vibration abuse from the rattling of that ball hitting the top of that shaft every time it ejects

I’m sure Foytik would tell me to measure stuff and reflow solder Probably worth a shot.

#12257 1 year ago
Quoted from Bschafer:

I just got my Godzilla premium! I have just noticed the center spinner is not working. Gigan and when tank are lit I can hit it over and over, it spins but it’s not registering. Any ideas what I should be looking for? Thanks for any help!

When the spinner spins, the metal rod connected to it rotates to press down on a strip of metal which itself pushes down on a button on a microswitch. That strip of metal might need to be slightly bent so that when the spinner rotates it will press down on the button and then release before pressing down on the button again on the next rotation, etc. You'll know you have the switch adjusted correctly if you can rotate the spinner by hand with the game off and you hear the button click each time you rotate it. Or go into switch test with the game on and see if the switch registers each time you rotate it by hand.

#12258 1 year ago
Quoted from Travahontas:

I’m sure Foytik would tell me to measure stuff and reflow solder Probably worth a shot.

Definetly reflow solder on flakey optos before replacing them. I had a flakey one in the loop behind the building. Was giving mutiple false loops. Removed ( very easy as the pair are on a bracket mounted from below the playfield), reflowed the 4 solder pads on the one that was flakey and has worked flawlessly since.

#12259 1 year ago
Quoted from Richard-NBA-SF2:

Previous owner put Mylar around the flipper buttons (at least I think it is Mylar) , but didn’t remove the buttons first.
To risky to just peel it off?
Richard
[quoted image]

Wow, that is pretty terrible.

Should be removable.

I would warm up the mylar JUST A LITTLE with a hair dryer, one bit at a time (not a heat gun)

Should make it easier to pull off; go slow.

Any adhesive residue, try 91% rubbing alcohol.

They do make proper mylar button area covers, but you need to take the buttons off to install them properly.

The general recommendation with mylar there or on the playfield is clean and wax the snot out out of that area first, then put the mylar down.

It will still stick well, but is much easier to remove and/or replace late with much less risk to the cabinet or playfield.

RussMyers

#12260 1 year ago
Quoted from RussMyers:

Wow, that is pretty terrible.
Should be removable.
I would warm up the mylar JUST A LITTLE with a hair dryer, one bit at a time (not a heat gun)
Should make it easier to pull off; go slow.
Any adhesive residue, try 91% rubbing alcohol.
They do make proper mylar button area covers, but you need to take the buttons off to install them properly.
The general recommendation with mylar there or on the playfield is clean and wax the snot out out of that area first, then put the mylar down.
It will still stick well, but is much easier to remove and/or replace late with much less risk to the cabinet or playfield.
RussMyers

Thanks!
One came off perfect. The other left residue. I’ll get some alcohol

Thanks!

#12261 1 year ago

I am ordering mirror blades for my Godzilla Premium from cointaker.

Anything else for Goldzilla I should pic up from them?

Richard

#12262 1 year ago
Quoted from Richard-NBA-SF2:

I am ordering mirror blades for my Godzilla Premium from cointaker.
Anything else for Goldzilla I should pic up from them?
Richard

if you've got money to burn this looks pretty cool:
https://cointaker.com/products/stern-led-backbox-kit

#12263 1 year ago
Quoted from RussMyers:

They do make proper mylar button area covers, but you need to take the buttons off to install them properly.

Someone — I think maybe Titan Pinball — sells button area protectors that are like those window clings. You can just peel them off. No glue or residue.

#12264 1 year ago

Have any fellow SpeakerLightKits buyers received their "Flamin' Frames" order recently? My order was placed about 2-1/2 months ago, so hoping to see if any others are getting their kits.

Type 14 summery 700 thumb (resized).jpgType 14 summery 700 thumb (resized).jpg
#12265 1 year ago
Quoted from rapidflipper:

Have any fellow SpeakerLightKits buyers received their "Flamin' Frames" order recently? My order was placed about 2-1/2 months ago, so hoping to see if any others are getting their kits.
[quoted image]

They look great! Hope you get it soon.
Does anyone make a RGB light kit that interacts with the game? Kinda like the CGC speaker lights.

Richard

#12266 1 year ago
Quoted from rapidflipper:

Have any fellow SpeakerLightKits buyers received their "Flamin' Frames" order recently? My order was placed about 2-1/2 months ago, so hoping to see if any others are getting their kits.
[quoted image]

0E786E03-78DE-43A2-BC0D-77F48F7D1612.gif0E786E03-78DE-43A2-BC0D-77F48F7D1612.gif
#12267 1 year ago
Quoted from rapidflipper:

Have any fellow SpeakerLightKits buyers received their "Flamin' Frames" order recently? My order was placed about 2-1/2 months ago, so hoping to see if any others are getting their kits.
[quoted image]

believe he's still working through a pretty big backlog. I ordered early march, just gotta be patient.

#12268 1 year ago
Quoted from Richard-NBA-SF2:

They look great! Hope you get it soon.
Does anyone make a RGB light kit that interacts with the game? Kinda like the CGC speaker lights.
Richard

He has an option for sound activated lights, I use them on all I buy . Except on the flaming frames, not an option for them

#12269 1 year ago
Quoted from RussMyers:

Wow, that is pretty terrible.
Should be removable.
I would warm up the mylar JUST A LITTLE with a hair dryer, one bit at a time (not a heat gun)
Should make it easier to pull off; go slow.
Any adhesive residue, try 91% rubbing alcohol.
They do make proper mylar button area covers, but you need to take the buttons off to install them properly.
The general recommendation with mylar there or on the playfield is clean and wax the snot out out of that area first, then put the mylar down.
It will still stick well, but is much easier to remove and/or replace late with much less risk to the cabinet or playfield.
RussMyers

These vinyl protectors are a much better option, peel on and off easily, inexpensive and are invisible installed.
https://www.titanpinball.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=138

-2
#12270 1 year ago
Quoted from Muymanwell:

believe he's still working through a pretty big backlog. I ordered early march, just gotta be patient.

I know someone who ordered back in March. Almost 4 months!

We all know about the struggle of parts and what a great person he is, how eventually you will get your product and if you don’t want to wait, cancel your order…

It’s still bullshit for those people who ordered and are being more than patient.

#12271 1 year ago

can anyone share a link for a 3d printed spacer for the JBL stage810 sub?

#12272 1 year ago
Quoted from Lopa:

can anyone share a link for a 3d printed spacer for the JBL stage810 sub?

No spacer needed for the sub. Just use sex bolts and be sure to remove the plastic fence on the bottom of the cab.

https://www.boltdepot.com/Sex_bolts_Combo_truss_head_Zinc_plated_steel_Coarse_(standard)_thread_3_16_barrel_(6-32_thread).aspx?Selected=14288

#12273 1 year ago

Just got my GZ Prem a couple of weeks ago and having an issue with the bridge. It operates fine, but for some reason, doesn't always completely reset to a flat surface; leaves a slight gap that prevents the ball from travelling. Resolves itself after ball search (the bridge will open, ball drops, and then bridge resets as it should. I didnt see a bridge calibration option in the menu, so is there another means of tweaking the bridge?

#12274 1 year ago
Quoted from Richard-NBA-SF2:

They look great! Hope you get it soon.
Does anyone make a RGB light kit that interacts with the game? Kinda like the CGC speaker lights.
Richard

people are starting to opt for these as an alternative,
https://www.mythpinball.com/product/stern-spike2-speaker-light-kit/

ordered mine last week they are shipping next week, i get updates weekly so far...
i love the speakerlight flame kit but hearing a 6+ month wait time is too much for me personally.
These also have a control box so you can customize the lights in a LOT of ways.

#12275 1 year ago
Quoted from Monte:I know someone who ordered back in March. Almost 4 months!
We all know about the struggle of parts and what a great person he is, how eventually you will get your product and if you don’t want to wait, cancel your order…
It’s still bullshit for those people who ordered and are being more than patient.

I ordered my GZ premium sept 22nd and just got notice that it is being built this month.

#12276 1 year ago
Quoted from Lopa:

can anyone share a link for a 3d printed spacer for the JBL stage810 sub?

Quoted from CashMoney:

No spacer needed for the sub. Just use sex bolts and be sure to remove the plastic fence on the bottom of the cab.
https://www.boltdepot.com/Sex_bolts_Combo_truss_head_Zinc_plated_steel_Coarse_(standard)_thread_3_16_barrel_(6-32_thread).aspx?Selected=14288

This isn’t the ideal solution. A spacer is better. The hole in the cabinet is just a touch smaller than that required to accomodate proper speaker excursion.

I 3D printed my spacer. There’s a generic spacer on Thingiverse. I had to scale it up in my slicer; I’ll find the settings and link for you when I get home later today.

edit: I used the following. You’ll have to scale this in your slicer. The 8 holes in these were key. 4 of them fit over the existing bolts. I then used self-tapping wood screws to secure the speaker to the floor with the other 4 holes.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1236894
DDB8E218-964F-4452-9289-D596781C934D (resized).jpegDDB8E218-964F-4452-9289-D596781C934D (resized).jpeg

#12277 1 year ago

Anyone else have (90% of their) shots from the left flipper through the building rocket past the magna grab without it the magnet being able to grab it when it's supposed to? If so, have you had any success with the new magnet settings or anything else addressing this? It's a major handicap to big scores.

#12278 1 year ago

this is exactly what I was looking for thank you!

Quoted from DiabloRush:

This isn’t the ideal solution. A spacer is better. The hole in the cabinet is just a touch smaller than that required to accomodate proper speaker excursion.
I 3D printed my spacer. There’s a generic spacer on Thingiverse. I had to scale it up in my slicer; I’ll find the settings and link for you when I get home later today.
edit: I used the following. You’ll have to scale this in your slicer. The 8 holes in these were key. 4 of them fit over the existing bolts. I then used self-tapping wood screws to secure the speaker to the floor with the other 4 holes.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1236894
[quoted image]

#12279 1 year ago

Does anyone know how this plastic junction box opens? I want to look at the shaker more closely and need to disconnect it (I'm assuming the connection is inside this box).

PXL_20220705_194950623.MP (resized).jpgPXL_20220705_194950623.MP (resized).jpg
11
#12280 1 year ago

That box is a ferrite core for EMI. There’s nothing inside to see but 2 magnets. If you do open it up, be sure to loop the wires back exactly as in your pic. ‘cause, physics. How do I know? Inductive reasoning.

#12281 1 year ago
Quoted from DiabloRush:

That box is a ferrite core for EMI. There’s nothing inside to see but 2 magnets. If you do open it up, be sure to loop the wires back exactly as in your pic. ‘cause, physics. How do I know? Inductive reasoning.

Thanks for the heads up! Nope, not going in there then. I'll unplug from the board.

#12282 1 year ago
Quoted from DiabloRush:

How do I know? Inductive reasoning.

#12283 1 year ago

I have intentionally stayed off this thread until my game was ready to ship. I'm sure it has been discussed already, but how far along is the code now that my game is being built? Living in Alaska, I have not had a chance to play this yet. I have also avoided watching gameplay.

#12284 1 year ago
Quoted from blueberryjohnson:

Anyone else have (90% of their) shots from the left flipper through the building rocket past the magna grab without it the magnet being able to grab it when it's supposed to? If so, have you had any success with the new magnet settings or anything else addressing this? It's a major handicap to big scores.

This started happening on mine immediately after installing new code. Had been perfect grabbing clean left flipper shots through the building prior to new code. Now like yours the clean left flipper shots fly past the magnet. In general my magnet isn't performing anywhere near as well with new code as it was on the old code.

#12285 1 year ago
Quoted from DiabloRush:

This isn’t the ideal solution. A spacer is better. The hole in the cabinet is just a touch smaller than that required to accomodate proper speaker excursion.
I 3D printed my spacer. There’s a generic spacer on Thingiverse. I had to scale it up in my slicer; I’ll find the settings and link for you when I get home later today.
edit: I used the following. You’ll have to scale this in your slicer. The 8 holes in these were key. 4 of them fit over the existing bolts. I then used self-tapping wood screws to secure the speaker to the floor with the other 4 holes.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1236894
[quoted image]

Yeah I guess my point was the spacer is completely optional. Per Dave's post in the DIY thread, we aren't likely going to be running enough power to warrant the use of the spacer, especially if you're using the Stern EQ. For the JBL 810 with the Stern EQ, it's not needed. Either way, the speaker mesh should always be removed.

Reference this post: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/improving-sound-quality-the-diy-route/page/16#post-6990556

#12286 1 year ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

This started happening on mine immediately after installing new code. Had been perfect grabbing clean left flipper shots through the building prior to new code. Now like yours the clean left flipper shots fly past the magnet. In general my magnet isn't performing anywhere near as well with new code as it was on the old code.

Interesting. Have you played around with the magnet adjustment settings? Mine has been like this for a long time, not just with the new code.

#12287 1 year ago
Quoted from Sorokyl:

if you've got money to burn this looks pretty cool:
https://cointaker.com/products/stern-led-backbox-kit

I've been buying those from Chris for years. He goes above and beyond to make them coincide with the particular translite that you have. Great product

#12288 1 year ago
Quoted from Tomass:

I have intentionally stayed off this thread until my game was ready to ship. I'm sure it has been discussed already, but how far along is the code now that my game is being built? Living in Alaska, I have not had a chance to play this yet. I have also avoided watching gameplay.

At .97 now, and by most standards would be considered done. But each update has been amazing, cant wait for next one.

#12289 1 year ago
Quoted from Hayfarmer:

At .97 now, and by most standards would be considered done. But each update has been amazing, cant wait for next one.

Thank you! Can't wait to play it. Will be a welcome addition to get me through our long winter.

#12290 1 year ago
Quoted from Tomass:

Thank you! Can't wait to play it. Will be a welcome addition to get me through our long winter.

Hard to imagine what 1.0 will look like!

12
#12291 1 year ago
Quoted from Shuoink:

people are starting to opt for these as an alternative,
https://www.mythpinball.com/product/stern-spike2-speaker-light-kit/
ordered mine last week they are shipping next week, i get updates weekly so far...
i love the speakerlight flame kit but hearing a 6+ month wait time is too much for me personally.
These also have a control box so you can customize the lights in a LOT of ways.

My Flaming Speaker Light Kits have not even been listed for sale for 6 months....so how have people been waiting 6+ months???

Doug (SpeakerLightkits.com)

#12292 1 year ago

Anyone run into an issue where the ball is not entering the VUK after going through the building ball lock? It’s draining but the VUK seems misaligned. If I lift the playfield slightly I can hear the ball roll fully into the VUK, then it will kick it up to the top of the building.

Stern has been useless when it comes to support and keeps insisting it’s an opto issue despite countless times pointing out it’s not.

#12293 1 year ago
Quoted from blueberryjohnson:

Interesting. Have you played around with the magnet adjustment settings? Mine has been like this for a long time, not just with the new code.

So far I've just been playing it without adjusting any settings. If they make another tweak to magnet behavior in another code update I don't want to have adjusted the settings and then have to dial it in again. If it's still doing this after code is pretty much finalized then I'll monkey around with settings, but fingers crossed they make another tweak to it or at least mostly undo whatever they just did.

#12294 1 year ago
Quoted from sgtski1978:

Just got my GZ Prem a couple of weeks ago and having an issue with the bridge. It operates fine, but for some reason, doesn't always completely reset to a flat surface; leaves a slight gap that prevents the ball from travelling. Resolves itself after ball search (the bridge will open, ball drops, and then bridge resets as it should. I didnt see a bridge calibration option in the menu, so is there another means of tweaking the bridge?

I noticed this issue too (have had my game about 3 weeks). I initially thought it was the plastic trim pieces binding (the edges of the stamping were not smooth). I filed the edges but the bridge will still close "uneven" as you describe sometimes. It feels like there is a ton of play in the mechanism but I haven't pinpointed the culprit nor have I emailed Stern about yet...

Can others chime in on whether they've experienced this with the bridge mech and, if so, what the issue was?

#12295 1 year ago
Quoted from DugFreez:

My Flaming Speaker Light Kits have not even been listed for sale for 6 months....so how have people been waiting 6+ months???
Doug (SpeakerLightkits.com)

Fair point. No one has waited 6 months yet. As a follow up, should people expect to wait 6 months after placing an order?

#12296 1 year ago
Quoted from DugFreez:

My Flaming Speaker Light Kits have not even been listed for sale for 6 months....so how have people been waiting 6+ months???
Doug (SpeakerLightkits.com)

I'll be honest I was just going off what I saw in previous posts about them throughout this thread. It's quite possible I misread/misinterpreted what someone had said. I'll have to go back and look but I thought I saw someone saying they ordered some in January and were still waiting.....I humbly stand corrected on the wait time, accept my apologies.

I'm not knocking the product at all, they look amazing. I prefer your inserts as well...

Everyone genuinely seems to understand it's a hot item and you are back logged on making them, and most people are fine waiting.

Some people are a bit more impatient and it's nice to have an alternative available in the mean time...
Def my bad on the 6 month thing but it does seem from other posts to atleast be a 2-3 month out order, or no?

#12297 1 year ago
Quoted from ThatGuyBo:

Anyone run into an issue where the ball is not entering the VUK after going through the building ball lock? It’s draining but the VUK seems misaligned. If I lift the playfield slightly I can hear the ball roll fully into the VUK, then it will kick it up to the top of the building.
Stern has been useless when it comes to support and keeps insisting it’s an opto issue despite countless times pointing out it’s not.

I mentioned this problem a few posts earlier, yes I have the same issue... ball save engages, building lowers...then ball gets shot up the back and rolls through the building instead of locking.. about a 50 50 chance for me to actually get a ball lock out of it

#12298 1 year ago

I’ve ordered several speaker light kits the last 2 months, and each was delivered very promptly, typically in 4-5 days from my order. Super-happy with these and the service. Just FYI. Results below.

8139FF10-6E3F-4964-B5D3-D8C127E0530E (resized).jpeg8139FF10-6E3F-4964-B5D3-D8C127E0530E (resized).jpeg
#12299 1 year ago

Question on installing the stern shaker motor, my AIQ had four pre drilled holes inside the cabinet for the shaker motor, not seeing that on my GZ. I believe there under side of the cabinet has inserts for the screws to go into. Should I drill pilot holes up through these to ensure the shaker screws align?

#12300 1 year ago
Quoted from Sorokyl:

if you've got money to burn this looks pretty cool:
https://cointaker.com/products/stern-led-backbox-kit

I put an an Interactive LED in AC/DC from Flipper Fidelity and it is so very nice. This is definitely something I want to burn $$ on! Yeah, thank's for posting that link and making me spend money...

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