Same here, may 31 builds seem good, curious of all the people with the glass issues have the same build date and not may 31

May 22 build glass fit is perfect just like the rest of the game!

My May 25 Pro's glass was a little tight when first delivered, but has loosened up and been fine over time. Nothing near immovable or stuck even at its worst, though.

I was planning on doing this soon, and I priced out speakers for the game. It seemed that DIY only came to about $30 less than just buying the Flipper Fidelity kit that comes with everything, the adapters, and instructions. So I'm curious, is that because I priced out those same speakers as you on Amazon and they are much cheaper elsewhere? Or is it just a small savings?

And I really am asking because I'm curious. I can already tell that Godzilla is going to be in my house a very long time, so I was looking into better sound.

Out of curiosity, which particular Flipper Fidelity kit were you looking at?

https://flipperfidelity.com/copy-of-stern-8-speaker-system-le-conversion-for-spike-2-pro-and-premium/

$174.95

For the ones that he listed:

Kicker DSC50 DS Series 5.25" 4-Ohm Coaxial SpeakerKicker DSC50 DS Series 5.25" 4-Ohm Coaxial Speaker
and "JBL Stage 810 800W Max 8" Stage Series Single 4 ohm Car Audio Subwoofer Speaker"

$70 (uppers) and $80 (lower). $150 for the three speakers needed.

So the Flipper Fidelity comes out to $25 more expensive, but also comes with the adapters to mount the upper speakers. And if I'm missing something here, feel free to let me know.

25$ sounds about right for the speaker plates.

I mean flipper fidelity obviously does not make speakers. And they covered up any indication of what speakers they used with their stickers. Maybe its common knowledge somewhere what speakers they use, but just from looking at their site, i can't tell. I have to assume the speakers cost them less than $150..... they obviously need to make money, and shipping is expensive. I suspect they buy the 3 speakers themselves for well under $100. Still, they're going to be better than the stock speakers, I can tell just by looking at the size and shape of them.

Meanwhile, on the "DIY" thread, OP is testing many speakers and many configurations. The Kicker+JBL 810 combo you priced out is the best speakers he has found out of all the ones he's tested. And he's got a GZ that i believe he's testing on, so assuming you trust this guys hearing, you know your getting great speakers.

If you have a soldering iron, and can spend 10 minutes soldering, I am pretty certain you'll have a better result, for the same or possibly a slightly lower price.

Haven't been able to find what they're comparable to, but keep in mind that just because they're the same size that they might not be the same quality. Better than the stock from prem/pro, but might not be as good as the kickers. I have kickers on two of my games so far, and another game with a different brand pre assembled upgrade kit. Price for the initial setup were about the same, but I liked the quality from my DIY option. What you get mostly in a kit is ease of installation having everything needed for hook ups in adapters.

Thanks.... Anyone have these on GZ or any of their Spike 2 machines that can comment of sound quality, etc.?

If you don't need the wire harness. I would DEFINITELY go with aftemarket front and a sub for much less money than flipper fidelity. Like Sorokyl said, head over to the DIY speaker thread, you'll do well.....

I paid $160 for 5.25" kickers a d the 8"JBL.
My friend went with Flipper Fidelity and they sound good but my setup sounds better.

Have you raised the playfield?(remove all 6 balls 1st) then check to see if cable is plugged in to Dual Mag Bag Board that senses Mechas position.
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Officially in the club. My Premium from Old Town Pinball arrived in mostly great shape, though I had a bit of a scare on first startup where it told me that it couldn't locate node boards 1, 8, 9, and 10, with the whole playfield basically not lighting up. Broke out the node map in the goodie bag and made sure all of the connections were seated on those boards (honestly none felt loose at all), and luckily all was well on the next startup. Still need to get the leveling right, but excited to setup my first pin. May 31st build date, glass wasn't tight at all.

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Had this exact thing happen to me. I did have a loose connection though. It was in most of the way but mine definitely not fully seated. Glad you figured it out. I know how you felt , I thought why me!?Lol

I have the flipper Fidelity kit in both my Jurassic park and my stranger things.
They sound much better than the stock speakers and if you've ever taken out the stock speakers from one of these machines you can definitely tell the low quality $5 speakers that come with these machines.
Are the flipper Fidelity speakers absolute most bang for the buck? Probably not.
Do they come with very detailed easy to follow instructions and all parts needed? Yes.
Additionally they include all the settings to change in the audio section on your pinball machine to sound the best with their speakers.

I have pinwoofers on my guns and roses but obviously those are twice as much but was interested in going with higher quality due to that being a music pin.
Lastly The flipper Fidelity website was down last week and so I ordered a set of pin sound for my Godzilla which just showed up today and I will be installing this week and will let you know my thoughts if anyone's interested.

Hedorah!!

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So anybody know the secret to getting an update to appear on the Stern Insider ? I’ve been out of town for 5 days and expected to come home to an update waiting, and … 0.96 is “up to date”. I’m downloading the package to USB now but this takes approximately 16 million years at 500KB/S (actual real world speed on my 1GB internet)

I have my Godzilla (at last , ordered day one ). The flipper is amazing, to see the ball movement traveling at the ramps is amazing, my favourite pinball machine ever!
But i have a minor "problem", i have a premium and when the ball "locks" on the top of the building, sometimes the coils doesn't send the ball, well it sends but it doesn't arrive on the top, what i can be? a power problem? to much or too less power? Normally it only lands on the top at the 2nd try.

You can and should adjust the setting of all the coil-powered things this one is gonna be called like building vuk or something. just go through the game specific settings and you'll find it. You also want to tweak the autoplunge and scoop to your taste.

I was struggling to make the building shot and barely made the Oxygen Destroyer Ball Save shot before it timed out. Converted it into a nice Destruction Jackpot!

Being brand new to this, would you mind sharing some of the settings you play with? I did go in and turn down the autoplunge to 125 (still not sure I love that) because the autoplunge was launching the ball too high sometimes and missing the curve entirely, just sending the ball up past Mechagodzilla.

Put in a about a dozen games tonight in between fixing various things.

Anyone else had trouble with the ball bouncing off Mechagodzilla's right arm and landing on the right/left rail? I kind of don't mind it, because it just returns the ball to the flippers, but it has happened about 6 times in a dozen games, feels weird.

Also I installed a Stern OEM shaker motor (the official one) and I've been having a lot of trouble with it. Sounds like jackhammer, had to turn the shaker use to LOW to even really be usable. I looked around the forums for general shaker motor issues and I've tried a few things, but no luck yet. Tried it w/ glass off, took off the plastic cover, made sure the shaker is really, really screwed in (used my cordless driver just to be sure), tried without the coinbox... it really just seems like the shaker motor itself is making the noise but it has been very hard to track it to a specific item. Tomorrow I'm going to try repositioning the weights to not be aligned as I've seen suggested. Also didn't check anything w/ the backbox, so maybe I'll try without the translite too. Happy to hear any other suggestions since I'm totally new to this.

Hopefully mine is the same….
Being it was built at same time, just not delivered yet. Aiq was tight as shit!

Yup, thanks. Exactly what it was. Got it done. First pin ever owned just was asking, appreciate everyone that chimed in with the pointers. Def don't mind learning a bit about the machines as part of ownership

I couldn't get mine to move at all.. I finally stuck a bath pillow on it thay had suction cups on the back and finally got it moving, I thought I was going to break it for sure...
Had a local repair tech swing by tonhelp me give it a look over and he was surprised how bad the glass fit was. Taking it off the second time was even worse. I was going to buy that exact suction cup you have for the same purpose.
Getting a ball stuck with the glass fit like this is going to be a pain. Loosening the side screws didn't seem to do anything for me

The MechaGodzilla right arm ricochet to the wire form ramp is normal(at least in my game) Also it looks really cool. Haha. The most important setting you can adjust out of the box is the trough eject power(#149 in feature adjustments) turn it down to around 148 instead of the factory setting of 225, so it’s not blasting the ball out through the side of your cabinet. I say 148 because that’s about as low as I can turn mine to get a consistent eject. Lower the better on that setting.
For now, other feature adjustments I have are as follows:
#157 VUK power -adjust to around 145 for more consistent first time pop ups( mine was popping the ball to hard and constantly falling back down at factory setting. It would take 2-3 tries for it to finally land up there)
#150 auto plunger - I adjusted to 130 (I was getting SDTM drains bouncing off magnet at factory setting)
I haven’t messed with scoop power yet because mine seems to bounce off left flipper over to right every time right now and I like it. I may try turning it down little by little to see what results I get.
That’s all I messed with in feature adjustments. You can fine tune your building too. Check the sticky threads in this topic for help there. I think you basically want to get the first floor level with the playfiield.
In standard settings I adjusted
#93 gameplay b.box brightness down to 25% so I’m not seeing a distracting glare on the playfield glass while playing. Set to your liking. Gotta see to play.
For the shaker motor- MAX power BABY!!!! if it’s your first pin and shaker… it’s supposed to rattle the entire house. It’s designed to do so. It’s super immersive. You can always turn it down or off, or pull it and sell it maybe? Shakers are one of the coolest mods to start with and people love them. In a home setting it may get old but when people come over it’s funny to see their reactions when first playing.
Hope these few settings help, and know they may not work the same for you as they do for me.
I’m set up at a 6.5 angle on all my pins front to back and level side to side.
Like I said though, turn that trough eject down right away to save your shooter lane from getting beat up. Have fun and congrats on your first pin!

Somethings wrong with your computer or internet.

But on the game, go to the net menu, test the connection first, but then after that just go down to install/download update automatically and select those. Should start then.

Please do let me know (either via forum or PM) Thanks!

I don’t think that’s it. The game is successfully connected to the network, has a valid IP address, and I can see traffic over the node. But 0.97 never shows up as available

So just to be clear. You selected software update, then selected download updates automatically, and after checking, the game said .96 is up to date?

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After a few times on and off, it is starting to loosen up a bit. But the suction cups still help. The friction from my fingers are not enough. Not like my JP prem that comes on and off easily.

Build date is May 31st btw for those who thought May 31st was a magic date for perfect glass. .

Still extremely happy with it. Everything else seems to be great other than an extra nut in the button of the pin that I can’t find where it came from. Looked everywhere for about 30 minutes. I am hoping it was an “extra.” But sooner or later, something will probably show itself to be loose and then I will say “ah, there is your home.”

For anyone having trouble with glass removal, something like these may help:

https://www.amazon.com/LOCCEF-MicroFoam-Nitrile-Coated-6-Seamless/dp/B09GV6LCYX

I was using these (different pair, but similar) to remove glass on all my pins to avoid fingerprints on the glass. The nitrile coating provides tackiness that makes it easy to remove the glass. I had to buy in a multi-pack so I just keep a pair in the coinbox of each pin.

My glass isn't THAT tight, but I've never had a problem when using these.

Really appreciate it, I'll try some of these settings out.

For the shaker, I definitely do want one, the thing that's annoying me so far is that it feels way different on mine than either of the LEs I've been lucky enough to play on location locally. Way way stronger and rattling like a jackhammer vs. more of a continuous rumble that feels more like a nice strong subwoofer, if that makes sense? I'll keep fiddling with it. May also try a pinballlife version instead, just to see. The game definitely doesn't feel complete without one.

for all you pro owners, is there a setting to increase the magnet strength during Godzilla multiball? mine is only holding them about 50% of the time.

The shaker has two arms. Undo the Alan key on one of the arms and try 90 degrees to each other. Try other positions until it is to your liking.

The shaker on my machine squeaks. I've tried spraying dry lube (PTFE) on/around the arms. That seems to take care of the squeak for several games, but then it slowly returns. I quick search in this thread has turned up different but somewhat similar suggestions, like using Super Lube synthetic grease or 3-in-one oil. I'm leaning towards using the Super Lube as I think the grease would last longer than what I had used in spray form, but it may be more difficult to get into those hard to reach areas (where the arm enters the motor housing). Has anyone gone this route using Super Lube with long-term success?

Having very similar issues with mine...looking forward to hearing of a solution.

Here's a video of my shaker during the coil test: https://photos.app.goo.gl/E8DkwE82pAZ3kZXA8

I don't have the cover on because I've been taking it in and out so much, but will put it back on if I get this fixed. I adjusted the arms like gumnut01 suggested (went 180 just to see what that was like, think that's way too light and will adjust it again), but unfortunately the "jackhammer" effect is still present even at 180. Though maybe this is what it is supposed to sound like and I'm just wrong lol. Thanks again all, I'll probably also post in the tech forum where this really belongs

Same here. I removed the weights and put a drop of oil on each bearing. That helped a little but squeak is still there. Curious what will fix this for good.

Are you on a hard floor or carpet? If on concrete or wood floor, try some pads under legs, if you haven't already

Doh, definitely should have thought of that. The back legs are on a soft pad but the front legs overhang onto the tile flooring of the basement. Will definitely stick something under and see if that does it.

Anyone have mirror blades installed in their Godzilla? I have some to install that are actual pieces of polished metal, but I'm worried about the clearance of the playfield. I'm also not crazy about the idea of having to screw these into the sides of the cabinet. Anyone have any tips on the mirror blades issue?

In case anyone missed this. Neat article that highlights Godzilla.

https://www.npr.org/2022/06/28/1091211119/juana-summers-pinball

Lift playfield into upright position. Use two spring hand clamps to hold the mirror blade in place at each end, make sure it’s aligned properly and screw them in. Helps to pre-drill a small hole. I typically only use screws in the front and back, middle not needed. Repeat for other side.

The screw holes being on the bottom, I assume some kind of double sided tape should be used on the top edge of the blades?

That's good advice on the spring hand clamps, thanks!

Just got 4.7 Billion and it does not show up on isider, I was logged in

No tape needed.