Quoted from Thefuge:

2.The Godzilla figure. Holy shit it's bad. In comparison with the mechagodzilla it just looks off in the machine. What is the best replacement?

Quoted from Sorokyl:

Mine is coming Wednesday, and i feel like I've become an expert in Godzilla action figures in the last 72 hours....
There are plenty of various cheap godzillas out there, but if your willing to spend about $60-70USD you can get a posable action figure from NECA. This is gonna let you pose the miniature best for where you put him in the pin. These are also the max size you can fit, which is just over 6 inches.
There are 4 eras of Godzilla so the first decision is which Godzilla you want. Probably the original 50s-70s Godzilla which had the movies that most of the pin is based on. There are two Neca Figures at least for this era. eBay is your best bet:
"Neca 1956 Movie Poster Godzilla" <- what I ordered
"Neca 1964 Godzilla vs Mothra" <- my 2nd choice
The 1956 is based on the 1956 Amercian version of the original 1954 Godzilla. They changed the costume after this first movie (Not to mention that Godzilla died, and the other movies have a second Godzilla), So there's some subtle differences between this and the 1964 figure.
But the most important difference between these two figures is the 1956 Movie Poster edition is brightly painted. I think this fits the pinball game better, as its very bright. But, it doesn't really match the Godzilla from this Era, who was very desaturated. If you happen to have miniature painting skills, perhaps you can paint whatever figure you get, but if not, keep that in mind.
sorry for the wall of text. I've just spent way too much time looking for a plastic godzilla toy and didn't want all my work to go to waste=)

Quoted from Thefuge:

1.The Scoop shot (very hard to hit) anyone with tips hitting the scoop consistently?

Quoted from Sorokyl:

Mine is coming Wednesday, and i feel like I've become an expert in Godzilla action figures in the last 72 hours....
There are plenty of various cheap godzillas out there, but if your willing to spend about $60-70USD you can get a posable action figure from NECA. This is gonna let you pose the miniature best for where you put him in the pin. These are also the max size you can fit, which is just over 6 inches.
There are 4 eras of Godzilla so the first decision is which Godzilla you want. Probably the original 50s-70s Godzilla which had the movies that most of the pin is based on. There are two Neca Figures at least for this era. eBay is your best bet:
"Neca 1956 Movie Poster Godzilla" <- what I ordered
"Neca 1964 Godzilla vs Mothra" <- my 2nd choice
The 1956 is based on the 1956 Amercian version of the original 1954 Godzilla. They changed the costume after this first movie (Not to mention that Godzilla died, and the other movies have a second Godzilla), So there's some subtle differences between this and the 1964 figure.
But the most important difference between these two figures is the 1956 Movie Poster edition is brightly painted. I think this fits the pinball game better, as its very bright. But, it doesn't really match the Godzilla from this Era, who was very desaturated. If you happen to have miniature painting skills, perhaps you can paint whatever figure you get, but if not, keep that in mind.
sorry for the wall of text. I've just spent way too much time looking for a plastic godzilla toy and didn't want all my work to go to waste=)

Quoted from chuckwurt:

Shoot from a trap and memorize where on the flipper the ball is when you flip and make the scoop.

Quoted from Thefuge:

I tried this a lot but its not working.
maybe my flipper is a bit too high. Ill try to lower it tomorrow

Quoted from chuckwurt:

No. You’re just missing. . Practice makes perfect. Well, perfect accuracy in pinball is impossible, but it can be improved.

Quoted from KidK:

This was my experience too. It was probably the shot that took me the longest to nail down, tbh.
I find it’s much higher up on the flipper than I had expected to nail the scoop.

Quoted from bt94kg:

Left ramp gives me the most trouble.

Quoted from troon47:

For me it's left ramp and left spinner. Then after about 15 min. virtually every shot is tough because of massive flipper fade.

Quoted from KidK:

To be honest I forgot about left spinner. That is by far my most missed shot.
The left ramp I’ve become more accustomed to, and I will admit that ensuring the machine is well waxed tends to help that shot significantly.
I haven’t noticed much flipper fade after 1,800 balls or so, but I did swap the sleeves and coil stops NIB, so YMMV

Quoted from chuckwurt:

Left spinner is my toughest too.

Quoted from bigd1979:

Yes left spinner kills me..

Quoted from manadams:

Anyone that put a $1 deposit down with Cointaker get a game yet?

Quoted from hawknole:

I adjusted the left guide around the magnet leading to the left ramp, based on the instructions linked below from the mod thread to completely remove the guide and bend it, (I did not do the plastic replacement as I don’t have that mod & my plastic is protected by clear vinyl). By fully removing the guide you can get it snug against the magnet. My magnet now throws the ball much further up towards the ramp, and left ramp shots are smoother, highly recommended. Also, the captive ball was stock dirty so while it was out I polished it with Flitz and waxed where the captive ball sits.

Quoted from troon47:

For me it's left ramp and left spinner. Then after about 15 min. virtually every shot is tough because of massive flipper fade.

Quoted from bt94kg:

I haven’t noticed any significant flipper fade, this is after about 1000 balls played. Anyone else have any issues with fade?

Quoted from bt94kg:

I haven’t noticed any significant flipper fade, this is after about 1000 balls played. Anyone else have any issues with fade?

Quoted from Sorokyl:

I know there are some enterprising individuals who sell properly designed fan mounts to cool coils, but is it a bad idea for me to just find a way to zip tie mount some old PC fans pointing at the coils? Can't hurt right??

Quoted from Sorokyl:

I know there are some enterprising individuals who sell properly designed fan mounts to cool coils, but is it a bad idea for me to just find a way to zip tie mount some old PC fans pointing at the coils? Can't hurt right??

Quoted from Sorokyl:

I know there are some enterprising individuals who sell properly designed fan mounts to cool coils, but is it a bad idea for me to just find a way to zip tie mount some old PC fans pointing at the coils? Can't hurt right??

Quoted from Walk:

I was thinking why not just buy a little USB powered desk fan or something and leave it in the cabinet pointed up.

Quoted from neverahighscore:

How to fill your time when you don't have to work! Good info man, thanks!

Quoted from Hayfarmer:

Easier way is to loosen guide bolt under field, squeeze guide inward and re tighten. Before and after pics. Huge difference, much easier to hit loop shot
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from Sorokyl:

Mine is coming Wednesday, and i feel like I've become an expert in Godzilla action figures in the last 72 hours....
There are plenty of various cheap godzillas out there, but if your willing to spend about $60-70USD you can get a posable action figure from NECA. This is gonna let you pose the miniature best for where you put him in the pin. These are also the max size you can fit, which is just over 6 inches.
There are 4 eras of Godzilla so the first decision is which Godzilla you want. Probably the original 50s-70s Godzilla which had the movies that most of the pin is based on. There are two Neca Figures at least for this era. eBay is your best bet:
"Neca 1956 Movie Poster Godzilla" <- what I ordered
"Neca 1964 Godzilla vs Mothra" <- my 2nd choice
The 1956 is based on the 1956 Amercian version of the original 1954 Godzilla. They changed the costume after this first movie (Not to mention that Godzilla died, and the other movies have a second Godzilla), So there's some subtle differences between this and the 1964 figure.
But the most important difference between these two figures is the 1956 Movie Poster edition is brightly painted. I think this fits the pinball game better, as its very bright. But, it doesn't really match the Godzilla from this Era, who was very desaturated. If you happen to have miniature painting skills, perhaps you can paint whatever figure you get, but if not, keep that in mind.
sorry for the wall of text. I've just spent way too much time looking for a plastic godzilla toy and didn't want all my work to go to waste=)

Quoted from Hayfarmer:

Easier way is to loosen guide bolt under field, squeeze guide inward and re tighten. Before and after pics. Huge difference, much easier to hit loop shot
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from Green-Machine:

Finally got to finishing adding clear rubber

Quoted from Sorokyl:

looks great. but the right slingshot has black rubber and the left slingshot has clear rubber!

Quoted from fooflighter:

Super Loopin':
So I finally got my Godzilla premium dialed in... It was pretty finicky on the playfield angle and the upper left flipper power to get consistent consecutive loops.
Just for reference I wound up going with about 6.8 to 6.9 measured at the flippers for playfield angle and boosted my upper flipper power to 175. I originally tried a lower setting from 160 to 167 as suggested to break in the game and then raise it back to the default 168, but that wasn't working too well.
The boosted flipper power is in contrast to the idea that the lower number will allow more consistent looping. On my machine, at 6.8 to 6.9 angle it seems to hug the wall nice and tight with the upper boosted flipper setting at 175 from the default of 168 in the current software build.
I'm able to hit consistent three and four loop shots and the occasional five and seven multiple times in a game
And destruction jackpots are hit about 70% of the time
Also to mention I'm using Titan competition silicone on all the flippers and rubber and replaced the coil stops and sleeves from the garbage ones that Stern ships with new in the box
None of the other shots from the upper flipper have suffered as a result of boosting to 175 also if anything they're also smoother as is the tail whip.. where you don't get the slow dribble out down the outlane, and get a nice smooth return off of the curved rail below the UFO

Quoted from Apinjunkie:

Nice to hear you're getting the game dialed in, especially after the shipping fiasco.Enjoy!

Quoted from pluto:

Had my first 1 billion game on my GZ Prem yesterday. Played rampage, got 2 EBs and got to play Monster Zero. I was SWEATING. I still need to really figure out how to more effectively get that score up because I feel I've seen content creators and stuff breeze past the 1 billion mark and it felt like a marathon for me.
Seems to be the annihilation bonuses, DJ and carnage mostly?

Quoted from ChipScott:

Just wanted to share some progress I've been making on my GDZ Pro.
-Changed all stock cool white GI bulbs for 2 SMD warm whites (along with the stock left spotlight and 3 backboard lights).
-Added 2 towered spots at left sling, doubled up the spots at the stock left spotlight, added an additional spot just beyond that (hooked to the red-yellow GI to give some additional light during the "red light" GI modes, as it can get a bit dark during those times).
-Added 2 towered spots at the far left in front of Godzilla (1 Comet fire bulb, 1 warm white).
-Added 2 towered spots behind the scoop sign (1 fire bulb facing mechagodzilla, 1 warm white facing the far center pf).
-Removed the stock cool white apron lighting and changed to Comet 6SMD warm white lights, along with warm white trough light (pic below).
-Added the piggy bank Godzilla, painted it and was able to fit it in without shaving his arm (touches but not jammed on the side of Drake building, but about 2cm from the left sidewall...looks more like he's creeping around the corner which is cool, little additional perspective). Did of course have to shave an inch or so off of the bottom so that his head didn't hit the playfield glass.
-Added a Mechagodzilla figure (and after attaching the music wire, I added foam padding underneath, which sticks nicely to the underside of the toy. I added a pic of this because I frequently add toys/mods that sit on pf plastics that are hooked to local nuts, bolts, etc and I thought this was a nice way to protect the pf plastics it sits on and wanted to share that).
-Added a battle tank at the right outline.
-Added Tilt's right ramp decal.
-Added Lermods bridge with interactive green flasher (which is a nice additional lighting accent to Godzilla and goes nicely with the new ww and fire bulb spots).
-Added shaker from PBL (nicely integrated).
-Added the Flipper Fidelity LE Speaker kit (and also using the Pinnovators hook-up to 10" external sub) and the sound is kicking!
*Looking forward to receiving @tditty 's Tesla Strike Towers and bamboo plane mods.
*Have side blades and apron decal coming from Wizard Mods, which Im excited to get.
*Looking forward to receiving the pop bumper UFO mod as well...that'll be cool.
*Do have some of Mezel's building facades on the way for the Drake building as well as for the noodle shop on the right end Subway building on the left. I think that those will give a nice upgraded look.
*Did order an equivalent size Mothra figure to the backboard plastic, which I plan to hover in front of that plastic like its flying. I plan to hook up a hidden spotlight to that figure from underneath, tied into the Mothra backboard light. I think that'll look cool, and somewhat interactive lighting, as that light isn't always on.
Still playing around with game pitch. Was pretty happy at 7-7.2 degrees, but am going to try 6.8-ish degrees this weekend based on the plethora of recommendations of that slope. Who knows what'll feel best... May also play with the flipper coil strength power. This is the first time in a while, if I'm not mistaken, that Stern flipper coils aren't already at its max amount on factory settings to begin with.
This is such a great game...hard to believe the code is just gonna keep developing and getting better and better...its already pretty damn awesome.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from KidK:

Does anyone have any advice on replacing the black rubber on the lamp post and the ring just to the left of the maser cannon? Those two spots seemed pretty tricky to get into when I was disassembling the plastics over there and got nervous and held back.
For the post, do I simply loosen it from underneath the board?
As for the ring, what’s the best approach there?
Those and the bumper pads are the only black rubber I have left on the game and I definitely want to get them off and replaced with some titan.
I picked up some silicone bumper pads too, but haven’t really looked at how they install yet.
I apologize if this seems basic, but this is my first machine.

Quoted from fooflighter:

Looks great, thanks for the pics, I am going to change mine out to the warm as well. The harsh cool white isn't working for me

Quoted from CashMoney:

Not sure if this is a bug or not: if you have Bridge MB ready, but start a "Rage Combo" on the right ramp, the bridge drops and Bridge MB starts right away instead of letting you finish the rage combo. I'm on a premium which could act differently than the pro model. It would seem to me that the code should accommodate for the bridge falling and allow you to finish up the rage combo first.
Anyone else notice this?

Quoted from ChipScott:

This is a more recent picture of my GDZ with warm white in the GI and spotlights. For my preference and eyes, I always change out the stock Stern cool whites for Comet 2-Smd warm white lights.
I also remove the apron and change out the lights that are behind those apron holes facing the playfield. I usually use the 6- LED warm white pads from Comet (gives a little bit of additional light to the proximal playfield) connected via comet matrix system. In addition I'll add warm white trough lighting.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from wtatumjr:

From the top, remove the top screw/lamp. Unscrew the hex spacer which is about 4 inches long while holding the nut nearest the playfield. Do not overtighten when reinstalling the hex spacer or it will snap off.

Quoted from crunchysue:

That looks fantastic! Do you have a list of all the bulbs one would need to get to make it happen?