Quoted from Gogojohnnyquack:

You need to either:
1) Get a leaf switch adjustment tool and bend the metal tab of the microswitch so it contacts the spinner actuator like your working spinners. Bend the blade as close to the pivot point of the switch as possible. This may require some disassembly to get proper access, in which case you may as well go to #2:
2) Disassemble that area so you can get to the two small screws that secure the microswitch to its bracket. Slightly loosen them and rotate the switch to achieve the proper contact with the spinner actuator, they have this adjustment capability. Then snug them back down. This would be my preference as I always want to make position adjustments before bending or modifying something.
Use the switch test and a good flick on the spinner with your finger to get the position and tension right so it spins freely and still registers.
And if you have it, a VERY slight amount of 3-in-1 oil or SuperLube applied to the spinner pivots with a Q-tip (or cotton bud in some parts of the world) will make them really go!

Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:

You know... of all the people in pinball selling mods, doing restorations, and designing things on the side, I think Cliffy is probably doing the best. People love his product, he is saving countless old machines and preserving them for generations, and is getting $80-$120 per set and makes enough to sell to other distributors as well as selling direct. I wouldn't be surprised if he was making more than the designers at Stern. Great product and a great business model.

Quoted from tedwasright:

Are there any videos for installing the one for the shooter lane?

Quoted from tedwasright:

Are there any videos for installing the one for the shooter lane?

Quoted from tedwasright:

Are there any videos for installing the one for the shooter lane?

Quoted from Gogojohnnyquack:

You need to either:
1) Get a leaf switch adjustment tool and bend the metal tab of the microswitch so it contacts the spinner actuator like your working spinners. Bend the blade as close to the pivot point of the switch as possible. This may require some disassembly to get proper access, in which case you may as well go to #2:
2) Disassemble that area so you can get to the two small screws that secure the microswitch to its bracket. Slightly loosen them and rotate the switch to achieve the proper contact with the spinner actuator, they have this adjustment capability. Then snug them back down. This would be my preference as I always want to make position adjustments before bending or modifying something.
Use the switch test and a good flick on the spinner with your finger to get the position and tension right so it spins freely and still registers.
And if you have it, a VERY slight amount of 3-in-1 oil or SuperLube applied to the spinner pivots with a Q-tip (or cotton bud in some parts of the world) will make them really go!

Quoted from tedwasright:

Are there any videos for installing the one for the shooter lane?

Quoted from matlynch91:

Has anyone removed or loosened the back right ramp? Installing convolex and can’t seem to figure out how to loosen the back right ramp enough to slide the new thicker plastics under the ramp. I’ve tried removing the two nuts that appear to somehow connect to the front of the ramp and have the back screw removed, but no luck. Any help would be appreciated.

Quoted from blueberryjohnson:

Thanks for the tips (and thanks to others as well). I have gun oil and had used to see if it would help the spinning. That was before I looked and saw the significant gap between the bar and the actuator vs. the other ones that are in light contact at rest.
I have a feeling I'll need to disassemble at least some of the stuff in that area to probably bend (I have the leaf switch tool). Will report back after trying (maybe this weekend).

Quoted from chuckwurt:

These may help. Video that shows how it should register in test.
Then I show two pics. One with the space between switch arm and spinner arm (mine has a decent gap). Second pic shows at what point the spinner should register the switch. Basically at 180 degrees.
3rd pic shows how easy it is to get to the switch with a tool. Nothing needs to come off.
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Quoted from blueberryjohnson:

Awesome. Thanks so much

Quoted from blueberryjohnson:

quick follow-up chuckwurt : can you follow up for a luddite what I'm looking at in pic 2 and what is meant by "Second pic shows at what point the spinner should register the switch. Basically at 180 degrees."?

Quoted from Hayfarmer:

Hey, easy bud. Wasn't implying anything, just saying it doesn't really serve a purpose

Quoted from blueberryjohnson:

I tried pressing the bar up to try to narrow the gap without success. Perhaps I'd be able to bend it that way if I disassembled the stuff around it. But I still think the comparative lack of tension/springiness in the bar would remain.

Quoted from chuckwurt:

Change the gold for EL paper and report back with your findings. Thanks!

Quoted from flynnibus:

You don't need tension in the switch actuator to the spinner - you just need it to cleanly trip and release for each cycle of the spinner. Your engagement point of the switch may simply be too far away due to the position of the switch blade vs the spinner. This can be adjusted sometimes by the switch position itself or by bending the actuator arm.
Just test manualy in switch test, does the switch trigger as you cycle the spinner slowly and consistently? It should cleanly trip and clear. Then try doing it fast and see if you get inregular results or not.
This like every other microswitch in pinball you want to cleanly and consistently have the blade be able to trip the microswitch but not bind.
First step, check that your spinner cleanly rotates when spun by hand.. first check is always 'check for something physical'
Then check the switch is registering accurately in switch test. If not, manually actuate switch and ensure the switch registers and clears consistently. if it does, then work on the switch position or actuator blade to get it to engage the switch consistently.

Quoted from crwjumper:

I personally put playfield protectors on all my games before I play them. For NIB games, after thousands of plays the playfields are pristine. No dimples, chipping, scratches etc. If and when I sell a pin the new owner gets a perfect playfield no matter how many games I have played. They can take of the PP if they don’t like them. I prefer how they play. They are quieter than a bare playfield and play exactly the same. You may have to make a few adjustments however, like slightly raising the pop-up posts and the other mechs that could catch a ball due to the slight depression that will be present. Once you understand this there is no issue whatsoever with a pp. After playing my pins, several of my buddies also now use PPs on all of their pins.

Quoted from blueberryjohnson:

Thanks. I agree it is something physical. And I can tell it's not spinning like it's supposed to compared to the other two. So I'm glad to have this and various recommendations of how to assess where the problem is.

Quoted from chuckwurt:

Yep. Common. Not sure there is any fix for it.

Quoted from kttully0428:

Hi! Anybody have any tips for reliably hitting the scoop? Any magic shots you've found that get it over there without much chaos? Definitely a toughie, for me anyway, and it's so thrilling when it finally gets in.
Sold all of my collectibles (a lot of old big box PC games, Legos, comic books and art, etc.) to buy my Godzilla Pro NIB a week ago. They were just collecting dust on shelves and I didn't realize I was sitting on a small fortune -- feels great to have them out of the house and replaced with something I actually can use every day! I can't believe how much I love it!

Quoted from kttully0428:

Hi! Anybody have any tips for reliably hitting the scoop? Any magic shots you've found that get it over there without much chaos? Definitely a toughie, for me anyway, and it's so thrilling when it finally gets in.
Sold all of my collectibles (a lot of old big box PC games, Legos, comic books and art, etc.) to buy my Godzilla Pro NIB a week ago. They were just collecting dust on shelves and I didn't realize I was sitting on a small fortune -- feels great to have them out of the house and replaced with something I actually can use every day! I can't believe how much I love it!

Quoted from kttully0428:

Thanks for the help y’all! I got the scoop like 6/10 times I tried on my last game based on the advice of just hitting it with the tip of the left flipper and got my highest score yet.
A couple more things— I noticed my building is a little misshapen (it opens slightly at a funny angle on the corner by the left ramp), and I think my UFO bumper is getting slightly lopsided. Seems to be purely cosmetic and not affecting play. See pics. Anything to be concerned about for the long term? My first pin so I’m hyper about every little imperfection right now.
The last thing to mention is that about once or twice per game, when the ball launches itself for ball saves or if I use the action button to launch the ball, the ball jumps off the track and lands on the little platform where Mechagodzilla stands before rolling off into the playfield. Last time it did this, it actually hit Mechagodzilla square in the chest Anyone ever have this happen? I am concerned if it keeps happening it could damage something.
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Quoted from PinDeadHead:

Of anyone is interested in an up close view of the bottom half of the building assembly, here are some photos. The blue foam & metal bracket on the looker’s left of the building entrance broke off so stern sent me a new building. Apparently it’s easier for them to repair the broken building at the factory and reuse it elsewhere. It took about 1 hour to uninstall and reinstall.
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Quoted from hawknole:

While the building was out I put tape on the other side as well to avoid a repeat.

Quoted from Frax:

Yes, oddly, it's only been the LEFT side that this issue seems to occur on. What the hell are they doing? lol....

Quoted from Hayfarmer:

Go into settings and decrease the ball launch. I set mine so it hits near, but not behind, the upper flipper most every time.

Quoted from Insanity199:

Thanks! I searched on "Magna" in this forum and saw some people experiencing it but mine rarely catches unless it is more of a glancing blow. I never saw a resolution and I guess this is why... there may not be one. That's kind of a bummer but compared to some others problems, I guess I will just be happy that's all I am fighting with.

Quoted from Insanity199:

I played more this morning and on mine it rarely catches it. Even glancing blows aren’t always caught. I would say 1 out of 10 get caught. I have seen video streams where it works way better for others. Luckily that magna grab isn’t a huge component of game play like destruction jackpot.

Quoted from kttully0428:

Hi! Anybody have any tips for reliably hitting the scoop? Any magic shots you've found that get it over there without much chaos? Definitely a toughie, for me anyway, and it's so thrilling when it finally gets in.
Sold all of my collectibles (a lot of old big box PC games, Legos, comic books and art, etc.) to buy my Godzilla Pro NIB a week ago. They were just collecting dust on shelves and I didn't realize I was sitting on a small fortune -- feels great to have them out of the house and replaced with something I actually can use every day! I can't believe how much I love it!

Quoted from BallyKISS1978:

I had a KISS lp collection that I sold to buy my pins. I did very well on selling them and have more to sell. They were just sitting there collecting dust in my lp crates.
So glad I was able to sell them and get my pins. The whole family gets to play and have fun. No regrets selling them. So much fun vs records just sitting there.
Congrats. Many cool mods to add to the pro. Definitely a fun pin and my favorite, but Halloween arrived yesterday and it’s really good also.

Quoted from tktlwyr:

If the magnet’s not working correctly, there may be a power issue. I’d check for loose/not fully seated pins inside the connector at the magnet and also at the node board.

Quoted from ZAuxier:

Curious what power you have yours set to? I know setup angles and playfield pitch will make this vary, just curious so I can have a starting place.

Quoted from tktlwyr:

If the magnet’s not working correctly, there may be a power issue. I’d check for loose/not fully seated pins inside the connector at the magnet and also at the node board.

Quoted from splickety_lit:

It might be all in my head, but it seemed the magna grab was holding and pulling more.

Quoted from splickety_lit:

I've had some issues with weak magna grabs. I had the playfield up and noticed the large nut holding it to the playfield was almost falling off.
The very large threaded bolt was also loose and the magna grab above the playfield was spinning and a little raised off the playfield, which it wasn't when I first got the machine.
I tightened the threaded bolt down and the cylinder above the playfield no longer turned. Then I tightened the nut so everything was locked in place.
It might be all in my head, but it seemed the magna grab was holding and pulling more. I guess I can see how the vertical position of the cylinder relative to the actual magnet could affect the grab. It still won't grab a very strong glancing hit, but I've seen it pull it from about an inch away several times now.
No idea if it actually made a difference, but it seems to. Worth checking for anyone with magna grab issues though.
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Quoted from wisefwumyogwave:

If you look at some pictures of people that have had the issue compared to people that haven't-you can see some sort of color difference in the steel on the left side my guess is they had two different vendors for the building or two different vendors for the steel for the building probably lower grade steel on the left side where the screws attached.

Quoted from rob3:

Looks like the 50% completion of tier 1 battles to light tier 2 battles is only when in the second city.