Have a few more coil cooler kits done and my shop is open:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/mod-announcement-extended-play-coil-coolers-spike-2-

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Happy to be part of the club finally. Would have been here a week ago if it weren't for me having to delay the shipment due to our family spring break vacation. Kids....

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Well my time with GZ LE will be up tomorrow as a temp trade expires. Here's some things my weird brain thinks of after hearing certain callouts:

"Sir the monster has fled!!! WHAT?"

"You feel pretty good about that do you?"

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I have the same issue....replaced coil stops and sleeves, adjusted the EOS switches, flippers set on full power. And it's still almost impossible to make the right ramp except from a cradle and weak noodles during mutli-balls. I'm hoping the JP Premium I have coming (supposedly) doesn't have similar issues with the flippers.

Crazy that something as simple as FLIPPERS on a brand new game would be an issue. If there's ANYTHING that should work and work well on a new $7K-$10K pinball machine out of the box, it's the flippers!

Hmmm... my GZ and AIQ flipper power seems pretty comparable... my Deadpool as well. I do have DIY coil fans on all of them. I can easily make the right ramp with game at 6.8 degrees.

Without looking at the manual, I'm pretty sure the left and right GZ flipper coils are different from each other, upper may be as well, but not sure if different from AIQ setup.

I guess make sure the proper coil numbers were installed and could also verify ohms are correct for each. Otherwise check voltage to the coils and upgrade if you decide to if everything checks out.

Indeed that the problem with the flippers bat heating consistency, and specially the problems of quality on the wood playfield, and the harden coat it's quite lame indeed, and am sure it would not cost too much to have a better quality of playfield and hard coat.

Let me know if you figure anything out. Sounds like we're in the same situation.

Shoot I had to turn my flippers down same with my avengers, both of the games were tearing themselves up on factory default. My line voltage is 125 shouldn't make that much of a difference with the regulated power supply tho

matches my godzilla and video clips,I like this version.Make a green 1 too and everybody will be covered.

Thanks James, I have some green artwork too. I will work on.

Extra Balls are not very generous in the game. How many are there?

At least 5.

Lots of great info here with hyperlinks.

http://tiltforums.com/t/stern-godzilla-rulesheet/7210#heading--extraballs

Thanks.

Extra Balls:
Extra balls are instantly awarded once any of the below tasks have been achieved.

Conquer 2 Cities
Collect 5 City Combos
Destroy 3 Saucers
Destroy 10 Jet Fighters
Make 15 shots during Monster Rampage the first time

Like I said. 3 and 4 are the only ones I can achieve. 1 2 and 5 are stupid hard on the Pro.

Conquering a city is just beating a tier one monster in two separate cities right?

Got my Godzilla Side armor and installed it. Anyone else underwhelmed at the quality? The gold inlay is sort of gold paper or similar. Doesn't seem as though it will stand up to time and will degrade. Anyway, just curious of opinions of others and what they think about this side armor kit.

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Underwhelmed as well ! That’s why I didn’t get it.

I’m definitely not liking it. No offense to ones who like them just my two cents.

When the topper is eventually released, do people put an order in with their distro for it, or get it directly from Stern? I'm wondering if I should get on an eventual list for one, seeing as demand is insane for everything now. How much are we expecting the topper to sell for?

Pretty sure rampage is 11, but yea not easy. To conquer cities all you need to do is play a mode and leave the city. 1,3,4 are like guaranteed if you are trying for them.

If a game regularly gives out more than 2-3 extra balls, I’m gonna probably turn them off. Haha

Order has been in since before I picked up my machine and the expected price will be WAY TO MUCH.

Change the gold for EL paper and report back with your findings. Thanks!

Sure is fun! Wish I had mine!

You can get gold/green/etc foil for a couple bucks and would probably look better.

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What’s this black plastic loop behind mecha for.. ? Seems odd.. am I missing something that’s supposed to be here?

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Blocks wayward balls to one side or the other so they don't come off the plastic straight onto Mecha's back.

I took it off day 1 cuz it looks dumb. Not a single issue, I'd remove it if I were you.

I didn't say there was a big issue connected with it. I just answered the question the person asked. Take it off if you want. Leave it on if you want.

Hey, easy bud. Wasn't implying anything, just saying it doesn't really serve a purpose

Cool. Cool. Thanks guys!

It does serve a purpose. It helps prevent ball hang ups. Not a big deal in a home environment.

Fixing to recieve my NIB GZ. I need some feedback. How many of you installed a playfield protector on your game? This will be a home use game only.

Thanks for the feedback ☺️

Follow-up on my problematic upper spinner:

It's not easy to get a good shots of the spinner given the position of the ramps, so hopefully this video will show enough of what's going on.

Here's a video of my left spinner which works great. You can see the one metal bar rests on the other, and that the lower one springs strongly right back when pressed and released:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1z60MCcRr_QYRGpC5ouy6asK-57Z4sKBf/view?usp=sharing

And here's a video of my upper spinner which does not work great. Though harder to see, hopefully you can make out that there is a sizable gap between the two bars, and the lower one is weak and not springy when pressed down and released (the pressing is a little awkward because of the angle, but trust me it would still respond weakly if flicked just the same as the other).

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1J1Np3mRbZlpu2zezSm0lHUBfU23feax3/view?usp=sharing

I tried pressing the bar up to try to narrow the gap without success. Perhaps I'd be able to bend it that way if I disassembled the stuff around it. But I still think the comparative lack of tension/springiness in the bar would remain.

Thoughts on what to do? Is this fixable with the existing parts or do I need to replace something?

Get a leaf adjustment tool and bend the switch arm

Sorry. Those video don’t tell us anything.

Post a video of the game in switch test and you manually spinning the center spinner with your finger.

I'm picky about my games and have installed a few playfield protectors, but never on new games. I wouldn't put a Playfield Protector on this. If you are picky, I'd buy a sheet of mylar and carefully install it into the shooter lane... might get a set of cliffy's for the shooter lane as well when they are available but thats it. A sheet of mylar is cheap, can be used multiple times, and lasts forever... I do it on all my pins with minty shooter lanes. A playfield protector won't protect the shooter lane, and thats about the only thing that would show any wear on this machine aside from a few dimples. Most people don't care about the shooter lane thing, but for those that do this has you covered and costs under $1.00 per machine and is essentially invisible (Mylar).

Some people swear that playfield protectors change gameplay on machines. I think it does but in a good way. I only use playfield protectors on machines where I have done extensive touchup and/or have replaced inserts and want to make sure the playfield is 100% smooth. I like playing my machines, and take games to shows when I can. I have never felt the need to put down a playfield protector on a new game... but it can be a great investment for an older game that still has good art.

Just as a heads up, Cliffy's are available for GZ you have to email him and he will invoice you. He is about 4 weeks out and a full set for GZ cost me about $90 shipped. If you're thinking of getting them do it now

You know... of all the people in pinball selling mods, doing restorations, and designing things on the side, I think Cliffy is probably doing the best. People love his product, he is saving countless old machines and preserving them for generations, and is getting $80-$120 per set and makes enough to sell to other distributors as well as selling direct. I wouldn't be surprised if he was making more than the designers at Stern. Great product and a great business model.

Heard nothing but amazing reviews! Very responsive and upfront about his backlog. There is a reason why, they have got to work! Money well spent if it will keep my game nice

I personally put playfield protectors on all my games before I play them. For NIB games, after thousands of plays the playfields are pristine. No dimples, chipping, scratches etc. If and when I sell a pin the new owner gets a perfect playfield no matter how many games I have played. They can take of the PP if they don’t like them. I prefer how they play. They are quieter than a bare playfield and play exactly the same. You may have to make a few adjustments however, like slightly raising the pop-up posts and the other mechs that could catch a ball due to the slight depression that will be present. Once you understand this there is no issue whatsoever with a pp. After playing my pins, several of my buddies also now use PPs on all of their pins.

The day of release. Missed the initial run by two.

Yeah, the videos don't help at all unfortunately.

You need to spin the actual spinner... the arm on the spinner will push down on the arm of the switch, which will then activate the switch.

You should be able to push the arm down on the switch itself slowly to feel the actual engagement spot to understand how it works.

As mentioned - you may need to adjust the switch arm so that each rotation of the spinner depresses and releases the switch properly. Also as mentioned - spin the spinner in switch test mode to make sure everything is working properly.

I've got one (used to bend for the flippers). Can try that there too. Will need to take apart some stuff to properly get to it.

Will do.

Has anyone removed or loosened the back right ramp? Installing convolex and can’t seem to figure out how to loosen the back right ramp enough to slide the new thicker plastics under the ramp. I’ve tried removing the two nuts that appear to somehow connect to the front of the ramp and have the back screw removed, but no luck. Any help would be appreciated.

Having the game in switch test will really help you troubleshoot. Manually turn the spinner slowly and see the exact point in which the switch registers. It should register fairly quickly to ensure that every time the ball passes trough you get at least one spin.

I had never put them on until everyone on Pinside said it was a "must". So I ordered my first set and was not disappointed. As a bonus, dealing with Cliff has been an absolute breeze - he is just a great guy and makes a great product.

You need to either:

1) Get a leaf switch adjustment tool and bend the metal tab of the microswitch so it contacts the spinner actuator like your working spinners. Bend the blade as close to the pivot point of the switch as possible. This may require some disassembly to get proper access, in which case you may as well go to #2:

2) Disassemble that area so you can get to the two small screws that secure the microswitch to its bracket. Slightly loosen them and rotate the switch to achieve the proper contact with the spinner actuator, they have this adjustment capability. Then snug them back down. This would be my preference as I always want to make position adjustments before bending or modifying something.

Use the switch test and a good flick on the spinner with your finger to get the position and tension right so it spins freely and still registers.

And if you have it, a VERY slight amount of 3-in-1 oil or SuperLube applied to the spinner pivots with a Q-tip (or cotton bud in some parts of the world) will make them really go!