Pro is well worth it. Plays faster and rules and callouts are practicality the same. Mech shot is much easier on Premium. So is the Building ball lock. I love the Pro if the outlane post are down all the way. Otherwise it's brutal.

I just love the variety of shots and those 2 buttery smooth ramps combined with the upper loop shot.

Subwoofer and volume controller installed on the GZ Pro.

20220411_164546 (resized).jpg

My affiliate link to subwoofer. https://amzn.to/3v9ZXX9 Only 28 bucks.

Doesn’t get stuck unless it is going slow, but it is still annoying!

3C6360D1-D02F-49B8-8C3F-3A8A1D773411 (resized).jpeg

BB5C9267-D337-43DA-8709-F6E9D6DE560F (resized).jpeg

You should jumper the positive to the positive and negative to the negative on the opposite side of that woofer so the dual channel is firing.

All I meant is your building is very nice. You’ve done a fantastic job. I just got my pro this week and as such I’m late to the party, but it’s all good. Well done!

That used to happen frequently on my pro. As was said earlier, simple and gentle bend of the top-side upward, and the bottom side down.

Current code

Godzilla Pro shipped out today! ETA is Friday! Can't wait!

Why did someone downvote that? Lol, yes 5.5 and 8.5 bil put up on a location GZ at current code. Granted both of the scores were put up by very good competitive players. I’m just trying to figure out how to get there myself. No need to get wild with the downward thumbs.

That would present a 2ohm load to the amplifier which will overload the on-board amp.

Wired in series would present an 8ohm load which would work, but then you're only getting 8w to a driver that ideally should have >100w. This woofer also has a moderate Qts rating meaning it's more suited to a sealed or vented enclosure rather than infinite baffle (which is effectively what we're running here). I'd recommend a woofer with a Qts of >0.7 which has a lower compliance and will give a much tighter sound.

Thought you'd never ask

I run Focal 130AC 5.25" coax drivers up front, a Rockford Fosgate Punch 8" 2ohm DVC wired to 4 ohms down the bottom (Qts 0.72), a Pinsound line out converter off the board for a stereo line level output, into a Dayton 2.1ch external amplifier that outputs 50w to the backbone drivers and 100w to the cabinet woofer. The sound is superb. Cabinet shakes to the bass, but the glass doesn't rattle which is good. And negates the need for an external sub (I run a DIY 18" sealed sub for another game )

I printed a spacer ring for the bass driver as it's slightly oversized to the stock hole and didn't want to drill the cabinet. Removed the grill as it's superfluous and can rattle.

The amp also has Bluetooth, so you can use the pinball machine as a bluetooth speaker when not playing which the kids love!

IMG_5307 (resized).jpg

IMG_4746 (resized).jpg

IMG_5308 (resized).jpg

IMG_4739 (resized).jpg

IMG_4749 (resized).jpg

Oh one more thing. Try your settings back to 8ohm (even if you're wired to 4ohm). It's a conspiracy, but it definitely does more than change the output tap on the amp. I believe it's filtering some frequencies. You'll hear it immediately. The cabinet setting affects the backbox speakers' sound as well. I'd love to know what's going on, but the sound is far better when both cabinet and backbox speaker settings are left at 8ohms.

Ask? Sir, I'm begging, please make a video of the wires, where they lead, maybe a few links to where we can buy all the parts? Bless your heart sir

It's fairly well covered in this thread if you can get through it, I could conceivably do a video on my next install! If you're just doing the backbox speakers, that's an easy one. You can just cut the wires from the stock speakers, re-terminate with spade connectors, then press those onto your replacement speakers. Almost any 4" speaker is going to be an improvement on stock, and you can go to a 5.25" speaker by either using a Stern 5.25" speaker adaptor plate, or printing out the adaptor with a 3D printer (not as good, but well cheaper). Once you've got the parts this is a <5min job.

So for the speakers I totally get that and am confident with that. My issue lies with hooking up an external amp because I want to upgrade my sub. I know very little about speakers/power. When we start talking ohms and channels and QTS my mind scrambles

Jeff’s going to be a happy guy!

Easiest way, get an external sub, run a cable from current speaker to it and DONE.

Like other Elwin games, you just have to make shots it seems and good things will happen.

Watch Karl’s game. I believe by the end he was getting DJPs with like an 8x multiplier.

I don’t think there’s any sort of billion point shot or anything in this, so it’s more about doing well in everything so that later the stuff is worth way more.

I set the machine up to how it plays the way I want it to. THEN adjust the plastic level itself so that the bubble is in the middle. That way when I move it or take it to comps I know that the bubble can be trusted when setting it up the way I want.

I've had a score a smidgen under 6Bil and another just over 5Bil. Normally, I'd class a good score around 1.5Bil.

It seems that ball length time does exponentially increase score, as a lot of progress resets when you lose the ball. To simplify, it's better to have a game were ball lengths are 1min, 1min & 13min as opposed to 3 balls each lasting 5min.

On my 6Bil game I had the DJP up to 12x and had a shot for that with a base value of 42mil - as it happens that was my lost shot as I missed and it went SDTM. I also completed Planet X. I had a GZ mb of over 650mil and a Rodan of over 1Bil. I did play well, but I've had games when I've made it to Planet X but didn't score much over 2Bil.
It just all needs to come together on a single ball for that exceptional score.

Can people share their premium powder coat examples? I’m thinking some type of green, gold, or red. Thoughts? Examples to share?

Lots of great examples in here, even some custom artwork, like on mine where I did a Mechagodzilla theme.

20220319_131528 (resized).jpg

20220319_131609 (resized).jpg

Loving the game. Not close to a billion yet, but cracked 600 a couple of times. I had started with the game pretty steep and back it off to around 7.25 right now. Its really fast for sure. I may go down a bit more still.

One thing that seems to be an auto drain for me is when all the lights go dark and the ball is still flying around. I haven't pinpointed the exact moments (jackpots/mode completions), but it happens and I can't see anything when it does. Anyone else have an issue with that?

If I was in a dark room, I’d be screwed. But I keep my game room nice and bright.

ya, it's definitely a severe drop if you don't have bright ambient lighting in the room. I've lost more balls than i'd care to admit to that blackout

The dark room gives me the old school nostalgia feel. I kept my pinbot incandescent too

20220402_173306 (resized).jpg

I like to see when I play.

B1FA6D43-204E-49F4-9D7C-6DE09928941A (resized).jpeg

I can see....kinda

Thanks. You quite a ways from Tampa!

I had held off on installing pinstadiums because the lighting is pretty good already but when those moments happen where things go dark/strobing I have a hard time tracking the ball as well. Maybe I’ll drop in pinstadiums this weekend to see what it looks like when those moments happen.

I'm changing all the rubber over to Titan, like most NIB owners seem to be doing, before i even play a game on mine WHEN i ever get it. Looks like most people are doing green flipper rubber. What other colors are you some of you using? Doing translucent everywhere else. And, dumb question, haven't even played the game yet, and have no idea how many balls it takes, 5 or 6? replacing those right away as well.

6 balls. my complete rubber list from titan is here (clears, green flipper, and black on the shooter tip): https://www.titanpinball.com/kits/index.php/view/id/2002

I did Green right away with a lil mix of red, now I have orange, with some light blue and red for some posts. Link to my kit with pictures.

https://www.titanpinball.com/kits/index.php/view/id/1875

For sure, not looking for a single high scoring shot but a strategy for score as well as completion. My higher scoring games so far have been defeating tier 1 and 2 battles and getting to planet X basically. I’m thinking the next step is to hang out in cities longer on a hot game and try to complete tank bridge etc as well as finishing kaiju battles.

Thanks. Like the Orange flipper rubber. But i'll stick with the translucent about everywhere else. Really liked it on my IMDN

i held the wire and ziptie while unscrewing the flasher post. I didn't have to unplug any lights to get all the rubbers in

Anyone have some pics of these glow in the dark ones installed? Curious how they look

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stern-godzilla-official-owners-club/page/186#post-6865892

I got tired of losing sight of the ball during those moments as well. So I put a couple Matrix warm white frosted LED strips in the apron, then ran the wiring & tapped into one of the coin slot bulbs on the coin door. These are the only GI bulbs that stay on continuously on GZ, regardless of the modes. The playfield white & red GI strings are all controlled & turn on/off. You just have to wire it down to the back of the playfield & then back inside the lower cab to the coin door so you can still lift the playfield.

With the LED strips in the apron, it certainly helps keep sight of the ball during those moments. You really don't notice them until the GI goes dark, especially if you have pinstadiums installed.

THX. I like those. Maybe go that route

Yep, just as stated, very easy, hold the zip tie, no unplugging.

Transluscent is rocking it on games too, may be my next choice.