Lol …. Yes it could

I put in bc precision I had here,been using them for years. No issues at 400+ plays. I could pick up paper clips with the ball baron ones, and they were hanging and dropping funny off the magnet. Could not hit destruction loop

Nice! I’m gonna give a few distributors a call today and see what I can do and try to move some of my machines in the meantime.

Instead of spending the $200.00, made my own out of a wooden egg and a little paint, blank shooter rod, and coated 3 times in 2 part epoxy....smooth as glass and has a nice weight and feel to it. Best thing is when I get my game and if I don't like it I can remove it....cost less than $25.00 to make.

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These?

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Thirty 1-1/16" Inch Mirror Finish Chrome Steel Replacement Pinball Machine Balls https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H6A82ZM/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_KA74EH2QB1D3VAZV5402

Wanted to share something that started happening to my Pro and collect thoughts... My left flipper is triggering the right ramp opto. It's also possible that Mech exit switch also triggers the right ramp (I observed that once but can't replicate it)

I tried all the obvious past suggestions seen in other posts such as:
1. the opto is off center - The opto back on the right ramp is very tight, very hard to move, which makes me think it didn't just move off place. I couldn't get it to shift in any way, but I don't know if I have to "force" harder and try repositioning;
2. turn on switch test and go pounding around to see if ramp switch turns on - I did that (pounded a lot, everywhere) and nothing will turn that switch on, other than hitting the left flipper button. When I hit the left flipper button (but not manually lifting the flipper) I get 3 messages from the switch test very quick: "left flipper", "R. ramp", "U. left flipper" (something like that) showing the right ramp went off.
3. Magnetized balls interfered? The balls are new, about a week old, not magnetized.

I opened a ticket with Stern, haven't heard back. Just wondering from those who have tons of experience with machines (PinMonk ?) if they think it's the opto after all or could be the node 9 or something else.

Another tidbit: I did get a tech alert "check node 9 - overcurrent protection" when testing the switches around; but that message went away after I restarted the pin. A little lost here...

Thanks and cheers!

Played GZ Premium on location for the first time a couple of nights ago. A few things stood out - this is a great game and it flows for days. Second - black rubber is in the trash before the start button is pressed on mine when it comes. The artwork was completely covered in black residue and the yellow flipper bats were dirty as hell. Titan translucents are on day 1 (with green low bounce flippers!). Finally, I’m not a great player but I don’t completely suck - it’s got that perfect level of difficulty where I felt like I could progress but it was still challenging. I feel like GZ is going to have serious longevity in the home environment.

The wait didn’t get easier after spending some time with it!

I ordered a Premium on day one and it should be arriving in the next few weeks. Played a Pro when they first came out but have avoided that location since they swapped it for a Premium. Looking forward to the experience of not having seen or played a Premium in person. The wait has been long but it's almost over! Agree on the rubbers. Super-Bands going on mine. Some sort of green and translucent combination.

Get a set of midget wrenches/ignition wrenches. Basically toy sized box wrenches. . Works great for this application

Good call. Does Stern use metric or SAE? I don't have a modern Stern yet. Thanks!

SAE.

Is there a post somewhere in this thread that has a diagram of the length and location of all the rubbers? I'm replacing mine too before i even play a game, which won't be til summer

this is the list i made and used:

https://www.titanpinball.com/kits/index.php/view/id/2002

there's a diagram in the manual, which you can find on stern's site:

https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/Godzilla_LE_Pre_web.pdf

I already have my Titans ready to install when my pin comes on day one. I also went with green and translucent for the colors. I also picked up some of the super shiny balls at the same time from them.

Thanks,
Also, just making sure, but are the rubber sets exactly the same for the Premium/LE vs Pro? I have a Pro coming..

Anyone running the super shiny Titans in GZ yet? I was going to go standards but if the super shinys aren’t magnetizing quickly I’d rather go that route.

Most I’ve heard are that there are less on the pro. Not sure which ones

if you go to stern's support site (where my link goes), there's a pro-specific manual with the same type of diagram and list. I can't think of any that would be different, though, as they're all at similar places in the machines.

Godzilla Premium will be my first NiB pin, and I hadn't thought about the rubber at all. How does the black rubber dirty the playfield? Through contact with the balls?

There's a few user-made kits on Titan's website for Godzilla Premium, but they seem more or less identical, save a few color variations. Is any one of those kits considered to be more ideal than the others?

it's low quality rubber that sheds black nonsense everywhere. strongly recommend upgrading to titan stuff ASAP

Overcurrent is probably what's doing it. You have a short somewhere that needs to be addressed. You know it's on Node 9 from the message. Was there a second screen that gave a little more information, or did you only get one screen?

Does your upper playfield occasionally go dark for a second or two like this:

https://clips.twitch.tv/ProductiveWrongChickpeaKappaClaus-xkpYk2SQWDgejFJE

That's a node reset caused by overcurrent.

Thank you for posting a feedback. There was also a "Device Malfunction - Trough" (forgot to mention)
I'm assuming this should be addressed by Stern (still in warranty) but I'm still waiting, and waiting... Maybe pause playing until figure it out?

Thanks again

Trough is likely related to the overcurrent.

Is it possible that mods (spotlights, extra lights on toys or dark areas, etc) tapped into the regular GI can cause overcurrent? I have more than a few, could try plug them off and see...

Yeah, that can absolutely do it if you are using alligator clips and they are intermittently shorting, or if together they are just drawing too much current. Until you get this diagnosed, I'd disconnect all of them.

Looking for the Mod where their is a plastic that fits on top of building and helps ensure balls don't go SDTM

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stern-godzilla-official-owners-club/page/159#post-6789446

i will say, you really shouldn't need this if your machine's truly leveled, left to right, all the way up the machine, though

Try to connect with "Hurry Up Pinball" he makes a mod for this, and also has a fantastic YouTube channel for streams and other fixes, tutorials. Really enjoyable stuff.

Not sure if they're still available, but the link below is probably what you're looking for.
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1368-hurryuppinball/05681-godzilla-prem-le-building-mod-multi-ball-sdtm-fix

Can you share more about how you tied this into the shaker motor power? Looking to do something similar.

Godzilla gets DIRTY - more so then it's peers (I've posted this before). Certainly nothing you can't manage in a home setting, but it gets filthy.

Godzilla is a brain simple game rubber wise. You can order my kit from titan which is just black but only the ones you actually need - https://www.titanpinball.com/kits/index.php/view/id/2053

Depends on how much current your mods are pulling. Overcurrent issues are typically caused by a short circuit or drawing too much power. If you do have alligator clips, just make sure they aren’t touching each other. Also, overcurrent issues in stern spike games have typically been caused by extra solder bits in the gi sockets causing a short circuit. Easiest thing to do first is disconnect your mods and see if that clears it. Are any of your GI lights out?

No, all GI's are on. But there's a mod with alligator clip. I like the idea of going maybe one by one (I know, patience...) and test. Thanks all for the feedback!

I ordered clear titan rubber post sleeves to replace the black ones on my game.

Did you notice that the original black sleeves are actually hard plastic rather then rubber?

Therefore i did not do the exchange because i guess the low bounce of that hard plastic may be intended and also i think there will notbe much black dust coming off of these?

What are these post sleeves? Are they commonly used in Stern games and would you still replace them with soft rubber/silicone sleeves?

Just put down my deposit for my Premium (first NiB and first Premium - had to sell my IM to make it happen, but at least they are both Elwin!).

Just read through a few pages of the posts, and wanted to check if there's anything I should be getting before it arrives. I'm getting a shaker motor for sure and already have a Voodoo glass for it. I saw I should replace the rubbers. Anything else? The Premium doesn't come with art blades correct? The seem like another good addition (had them on the IM and they were great)

Super pumped to get this game at home - one of my dream IPs and the extras on the Premium took it to the next level for me.

Well, you may as well read all 175 pages... you will for sure get your game before 2024

No, my upper playfield does not get dark. In fact, the overcurrent message is gone as well as the trough message. I disconnected all light mods and tested again. Unfortunately the right ramp still goes off on most left flipper triggers... Really lost here

The overcurrent will come and go if the short is intermittent.

First of all figure out if it's the cabinet switch that's causing the issue or the EOS on the flipper.

Unplug the coil drive from the node board (power off first) which is connector CN8 on Node 8 for the lower and CN7 for the upper left, so the coil for the left flipper doesn't fire. Then power up and hit the flipper button slowly so you trigger the lower first, then the upper. See if that triggers the opto.

If not, then manually move the flipper until the EOS fires on the lower left flipper a few times. If that doesn't trigger, try manually moving the upper left flipper and see if fully extending that one so the EOS triggers cause the opto to go.

THEN if THAT doesn't work, power down and re-connect the flipper coil and on to the more detailed stuff:

So CN11 connector on Node 9 is the one you want to concentrate on. GREAT that the opto triggers on almost all the flips because you can reproduce it frequently and know when it may be fixed.

Basically, you want to remove CN11 connector from node 9 (power off). Then take a picture of it so you have the wire order correct. Then remove pins 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, but DO NOT remove pin 4 (which is right ramp made - the one that's triggering, right?) then replace the connector, power up, and see if the flipper still triggers it.

This assumes that it's not cross-shorted with a wire from another board...

Yes.

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That's a sweet image, nice to see the oxygen destroyer in action. I received this today, like so many others here, stockpiling mods until the fateful day arrives.

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all right... this sounds scary in the hands of a new guy (lol) particularly the last steps... Thanks, I'll try it tomorrow morning very carefully and post back.

I love my Le but I have never seen such tight glass.I use the suction cup method to remove.
It also squeaks when someone walks by.Im afraid it could shatter anytime although the squeaks
are starting to die down pretty much.

The glass on my Premium is also super tight.

Do the first part before the CN11 more detailed part and report back. Just make sure you have the correct node board (node 8 is by the ball trough, node 9 is below mid-playfield) and that you are powered OFF when plugging or unplugging stuff on the node board.

For post sleeves I prefer the Super Bands. In my experience they last way longer than the silicone variety (Titan or Perfect Play) and stay much cleaner. (I like clear translucent) They are a bit firmer (higher durometer) as well.

I am installing a playfield protector. Which is the best way to remove the bridge in order to be able to install the protector on the playfield? Thanks for any info!

EDIT: Never mind, figured it out

Anyone see the Wiz Mod side art blades in person? Anyone used their art blades before?
https://wizardmod.com/collections/wizblades-pinball-blades/products/godzilla-stern-pinball-wizblades

Trying to decide if they are better than the official Stern ones.

I have zero complaint. As you can see I don’t save on the mod side, if I had the slightest doubt I would change them in a heartbeat.

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PinMonk I was able to do part I (node 8 ) but realized I'm not very comfortable messing with the connectors. I couldn't get the ramp to lit with just the cabinet switches. I plugged back CN8 (CN7 off) and tried and the lower flipper (coil?) triggers the ramp.
When I started noticing the right ramp issue was because sometimes the autoplunger would go off by itself, so I started tracking if a switch went off before I started a ball (that's when I noticed my flipper was causing it). But now I'm also noticing the autoplunger going off before I touch the left flipper. So there's something else (maybe shorts like we suspect) and I'm afraid this can go deeper.
I will seek Stern or a tech help as I'm not that handy with small electronics, not comfortable with part 2... Thanks for all the help and input.