That is a rough looking finish on that mod, just saying. Was that the intended design?

pretty similar to how it looked in the movies

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Blocks your outline. No good

Appreciate the clarification. So, if I complete a battle in Tokyo and choose to stay there during the subsequent city select screen, then hitting both ramps won't therefore light a new battle since you can only play one Tier 1 battle there? I'm trying to figure out why I'm seeing scenarios where I've completed a battle, gotten to the city select at the scoop, hit both ramps yet not lighting another battle. I'm not in a multiball and tank multiball isn't lit at the scoop.

Glad you like it, thx for posting. Feeding the wire down takes a bit of patience. I don’t find it blocks the outlane either, at least not for nudging, as it sits a little lower down.

Correct.

Use the ramp lights. In this scenario the ramps will not even be lit.

I believe the replacements are definitely owed to me regardless of quality... the games only gotta few hundred plays and although I have always kept spares around I feel like It'd be better to have a few more in the tool box then a few less. But I get the point both ways.

Agreed. I mean, do what you want with your machine, but that fundamentally changes how the game is played

as shown in the pictures and from 100% personal play, it does not block the view of the top of the outlane, and does not impact the ability to nudge, etc, in any single way. there's zero impact on game play.

You want crap coilstops to put in your toolbox to replace the crap coilstops that break?

Well, we all have our hill to die on.

Been wanting to see better when the shield rotates for a while. Installed a LED that lights whenever the moter kicks on.

Has their been any insight as to what Monster Zero, King of the Monsters and Terror of Mecha Godzilla modes will be? I assume KOTM will be the main wizard mode but Keith usually puts a super wizard mode in so maybe the other mode will be another mini?

I keep watching the stern Instagram stories, waiting for the one showing the line of Godzilla premiums being assembled at the factory.

Got my Diddy Mods signature line building today - # 1013. Looks great, the fire led lighting is very cool, I dig it. Big upgrade over the flat plastic building. With TDiddy's bridge and towers, I'm very happy with the look.

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I think this looks amazing - very, very well done! Have you already posted the steps/connections/parts you used to pull it off?
Not looking for tons of details but just the basics of where you made the connections, where you placed the LEDs, etc.

My bad. When looking at the picture, I thought it was completely blocking the right out lane. Very cool looking mod!

I was having magna grab "fails" due to glancing and powerful hits bouncing off too hard but they were dead on. I change my "magnet pulse delay" from 32 to 22. And it grabbed direct super strong hits like 10 in a row and few strong glancing shots, I would imagine this will run the magnet hotter but I have a DYI fan kit on mine so I'm not worried about that, just beware.

Thanks man. I used the magnetism generated by the bridge coil and the godzilla magnet to close Reed switches. When the Reed switch closes it sends the 6v to the LEDs. All separate from the spike 2 system.

1. Tap into the 120v in the backbox.
2. The 120v feeds into a standard.
arcade switching power supply.
3. From the power supply 5v lugs.
you have a + (5v) and - (ground)
wires running to magnet and
coil.
4. The normally open Reed switch
is installed in line either in the -
or + wire and hot glued to the
magnet and coil.
5. Finish the wire runs to LEDs. I
have LEDs in front of the bridge
and behind the godzilla toy.

To make the work easier I used comet LED matrix wires, Splitters, lamp sockets, and blue Fire LEDs. 1 white LED for the bridge.

I'm sure there are better ways to do this but I'm not a pro modder.

https://www.cometpinball.com/collections/matrix

Reed switch I used.
Gebildet 20pcs Reed Switch Reed Contact Normally Open (N/O) Magnetic Induction Switch (2mm14mm) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RS2M9TR/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_XAXX3NK50QMW5KK4ERNY

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Looks awesome!! I wish LE/Prem models had something like that!

They really look cool... but I don't see those for sale on Diddy's mod page. Are they all sold out or do we have to request them? Thanks!

Probably have to PM Tdiddy directly. Last I heard him say there may be a few slots left. Only making 100 total. Thread below:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/signature-line-godzilla-building-release-info-

Hello all, I have an opportunity to trade my mando premium for a GZ pro and cash. I have played the premium but not the pro. The trade is close to me around an hour, so would be convenient. Or would I be better to just sell and put in for a premium. I have had several opportunities to trade mando for other games and just end up keeping mando.
Asking people who have payed both versions GZ.

Anybody else with a shaker installed getting a weird chirping noise in the speakers when it’s on? Not while it’s activated but just random chirps when it’s on. I turn it off in options and the chirping goes away. Weird.

How much cash is an important detail. In theory, I would take that trade, but the amount of USD (don't make me do currency conversion math!) cash would be the determining factor.

I get occasional random loud chirps/pops on my LE but I’ve never tried turning off the shaker to see if it’s related… figured it was a software thing they’d catch eventually

Essentially the difference between a NIB pro and NIB premium. My game has about 460usd in upgrades and no insider connect.

So $2k USD cash plus GZ Pro for your Prem Mando? Does the GZ Pro have any worthwhile upgrades like Stern art blades/shaker motor, etc?

Basically. No mine has the upgrades, stern Shaker, stern art blades, stern shooter rod and cliffys.

If his GZ has no upgrades, if you take off your Mando shaker motor (so you have it to put on for the GZ Pro that uses it WELL), I'd do his GZ Pro + $2k for your Mando prem. You can always upgrade to a GZ Prem later when they are more easily available if you really love the game. Gameplay-wise I think GZ is better than Mando, so you're getting a gameplay upgrade straight off the bat.

Are you sure it's not the virtual knocker (replay)?

Positive it’s not on mine..it’s just doing it even with ball sitting in shooter lane

Watch Godzillas All Monsters Attack dubbed and free on YouTube.

My 5, 8, and 10 year old loved it. The movie is sooo lame but totally worth a watch especially if you have little kids around that don't know what to expect. Had pretty much all the monsters.

I played a LE on location several times and liked it enough to put in an order for a premium but knew it would be several month before I would get the premium. I came across a NIB pro and bought it as it was available at the time. The pro is a really solid game, I would make the trade with cash coming your way. I will have quite the decision once my premium becomes available, but I am leaning toward selling the pro and keeping the premium. The game play is not all that different but I tend to like premiums more than pros. also depends on how much you like Mando, I’m not a huge fan, but GZ is really fantastic.

I’d make the trade and put in an order for a premium. If you like the pro, cancel the order for the premium and bank the $$. If you want the premium sell the pro, doubt you would lose money on the pro..just my 2 cents.

Make sure you play the Premium a few times before deciding to get rid of your Pro. You may very well end up liking the Premium more but in my case I've owned a Pro for a couple months and went back and played a Premium again and found that I preferred the Pro's gameplay even more than I did early on when I played both models and was deciding which model to buy. The shot geometry just feels better and the game feels more solid. This isn't always apparent within the first handful of plays but after putting 500 plays on my Pro you can tell the subtle differences between the models.

Thanks to Sonic for these MRS switches! I feel like the one to the right of the scoop makes for smoother skill shots, & the one below the pop makes for a smoother transition to the flippers. I also put one on my WH20 in that notoriously bad "canyon main" switch position. They work flawlessly & are easy to install. I definitely recommend them !!

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You replaced the rollovers with reeds?

I just did the upper next to Mecha and I am doing the Pop Bumber/outlane area next. Tired of the ball hopping from the pop bumber into the outlane and losing a ball. Tried adjusting the switch, adjusting power on the pop, just not worth it any more, IMO. MRS is the way to go in this area. The Mecha area is more about the soft shot with my family, I had the regular switch adjusted, but I now prefer the MRS.

Yes he did!

Matt
M&M Creations

Glad this is working. This is a tough area for a regular roll over switch.

Dan
M&M Creations

what does the oxygen destroyer (right out lane) do?

No idea, hasn’t been coded into the game yet.

destroys oxygen

If anyone's interested, I will be selling my wiz panel for a Godzilla premium. This is the magnetic art piece that covers the speaker area on the back box. In the end, I decided to go with the lit fire speeker inserts from Doug. Never used, still on the original shipping tube. These normally ship from overseas, so you can save yourself the wait time in shipping and customs.PM me if interested.

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Just unboxed a new premium. The lock bar button doesn’t light up. Everything is plugged in, and the button itself works. Anyone run into these little LED boards being bad? Solders look good.

Check the pins in the connector on the coin door interface board on the left inside the cabinet. It's the connector on the bottom edge toward the right of the board. Sometimes the pins slip out of the connector and you don't get power.

Also, it's RGB, so maybe just one of the lines is out. Go into light test mode and see if you get light on Red, Green, or Blue test for the lockdown bar button.

Thanks! I missed that post... Cheers

I did art blades in my IMDN and seemed fairly easy with the PF in. I haven't got my GZ yet so.......so is there a reason it'd be tougher on GZ? Just curious without having mine yet

i left mine in while installing the stern blades, no major issues. I used the soapy water method, so i could shift the blades around during install (i suck at stickers)

Naw, wouldn't be any different. I just meant in general, its real nice to do it without PF in

p.s. - I also swap out the cheap assed speaker in cab and hit both a same time.

Curious what you replaced the cabinet speaker with? I've been reading up in this thread, and others, and the CS5 set from Kicker sounds like the best pick for the backbox pair, but I'm interested to hear what's recommended for the 8inch downfiring speaker?