Does anyone know how to loosen/remove the right ramp on the prem/LE? I expected to see two bolts running through the playfield and I do not.

https://nitropinball.com/products/flipper-buttons-led-stern

Never mind. I found them.

Could have been left in there from the factory and may not be missing one to begin with. You can go into lamp test and look for an area missing some light, would be somewhere in the GI because the inserts use those little light boards and not the individual bulbs anymore.

Thank you. Is there supposed to be anything by the scoop on the pro? Only area that looks dim when I do any of the Gi test.

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I would check those missile lights under the inlanes to see if one is missing. If it's not obvious after that then just hold onto it in case you do find a empty socket one day, not hurting it playing without a bulb.

I agree the best mod for the money is a shaker motor. Also one of the easiest to install.

The top of the right sling looks a little dull compared to the left side. Should be 3 lights under the plastic there.

Bingo! Thank you for the help!

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I know is repetitive but what’s the best most qualified OEM shaker motor for Godzilla?

I’ve ordered others in the past and they say the title of the game with it. I can’t find a Godzilla one does that. Does that mean I should wait until they release one?

Thank you in advance

There aren’t any game-specific shakers, just different brands. I usually get them from cointaker or pinball life. They are specific to spike games like GZ.

Got it. So I should be looking for a Stern 2 Spike compatible shaker

Comet pinball has them and they are cheaper.

https://www.cometpinball.com/products/illuminated-flipper-button-kit

You have to do a visual inspection unfortunately.

Correct.

2 options here:
https://www.pinballlife.com/godzilla-stern.html

One from stern and one from pinball life

I have bought Sterns and pinball life’s, can’t go wrong with either.

those aren't the same brand, so i can't speak to those. different LEDs, etc.

Magna grab you hit both flippers to drop it where you want. If you let it time out then it drops wherever the ball is currently held.

I spoke with a support person today at Stern regarding the issue at least a couple of us have with the top half of the back wall ball guide not being flush with the bottom piece. He said he brought showed it to the mechanical engineer who said the way we have it is how it is designed.

I asked why it would be the case that on some machines the guide is flush. He said they were probably built at different times and that either is fine as the ball does not actually run along three guide, so it not being flush has no impact on the shot or trajectory.

I wasn't in a place to be able to check this out myself by rolling a ball through the shot and watching that top area with the glass off. Will do later when I'm able and hope to confirm what he communicated is the case.

Found two of those in my pro and no idea where they go

Check the screws on the inside of the coin door.

Thx, that's a good strategy.

Good evening. Had several requests asking where I ordered the LED for Godzillas mouth. Here you go… not near my machine to snap any pics. Sorry.

Lights ordered from - www.evandesigns.com. - Just be aware that these things (the lights and the wire) are TINY.

I added some wire to the led pigtail so It would be easier pulling it thru the figure. The 8 inches that comes with the light is barely enough to get it all the way through and have enough to work with. To keep the drilled hole in the mouth as small as possible I did not want the rectifier to be pulled through so I ordered the “separated light set” which worked great.

I also did not want the the rectifier half of the separated set exposed so I used enough wire to run that to the back side of the backboard before “connecting” them. I also ran tube heatshrink along the entire length of wire so it is a bit more sturdy.

For the wire behind the backboard I attached a 12 volt female pigtail adapter and used a 12v wall wart (already had these on hand) and simply plugged that into the service outlet. I am aware there are multiple ways to grab power but this was the easiest for now. Used black gaffers tape to affix the wire to the back side of the back board. Because I used that pigtail connection it will be easy to disconnect if I ever need to pull the playfield.

You only need to drill a small hole in the roof of his mouth…if its to big the light will easily pull through. I affixed the light with a small piece of Gorilla double sided tape…. About 1/4 the size of a pencil eraser…if not smaller. I may add a dab of hot glue down the road.

Attached are pics of what I ordered (or had on hand) for the lighting. Other posts in this thread on the bank figure and painting it…

NOTE… I ordered the “flickering” lights but had to add that in the Special Instructions when I checked out. Really like that effect.

Thanks for the compliments. Good luck and feel free to ask any questions.

- Matt

I may experiment with alligator clipping to different lights on the playfield (spinner anyone?) to see varying styles… but really kinda like the always on flickering blue light.

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Finally got my side blades installed, the building facades from Mezel's as well as the Tesla strike towers from Tom (man, those things are awesome!).

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Very cool. Can you please share a link to the led you used? Tie into GI?

I have them and they are good. I wouldn’t spend double on them from nitro. That’s stupid and over kill. Comet LEDs are great. And good prices.

Thanks for the report. I plan to do the same to take a close look, maybe take a slow mo video, to see how it rolls back there. Thanks again.

Just stopping by to say hi! After a 6 plus hour trip last night, I am officially part of the GZ club. Got our pro home and setup late last night.

Awesome, thank you!!

So, i've thought about it for a while, and kind of always wanted to do this....and ultimately I decided to do it on this game...
...to re-think the Pinstadiums.

So I had a set of Pinstadium Neo's from a prior game.
Over the years, I've been less inclined to have those strips on the sides.
Sure, Scott makes a great product (and his customer service is top notch), but my tastes have just changed (and I have been using more spotlights instead of stadium lighting and enjoying the subtle shadows the game gives with just a touch more light where I want it...also, I have been tiring of taking down those strips, putting back up, taking down again to put back up, take down again, etc etc, etc every single time I need to pull the playfield...ugh...I digress...).

So, this morning I decided to take the Pinstadium strips off of their ong L-shaped plastic bases (and in this maneuver I opted to exclude/cut the white dimmable strip, and then I trimmed the color changing strips as well as the UV strips on both sides).

I then saved the diffuser that came with the Neo's and cut them to spec for the 2 strips I would have at the back of the pf (out of view, but gives the color coming from the strip a nice softer glow).

Since there's no backboard bulbs on this game, for one side of the Pinstadiums (2 strips; color + UV) I decided to place the long color-changing strip with diffuser high on the backboard (above the subway and noodle buildings; and completely out of view when playfield is in position), and a long UV strip (also with diffuser) underneath the back glass channel facing down.
...and with the other side of the Pinstadium (2 strips; color and UV), I trimmed the color-changing one under the pf to highlight the scoop (which is nice as its color jives with the color coming from the backboard), and placed the UV strip (trimmed to just 2 lights) behind the bridge facing Godzilla.

I opted on a warm yellow-orange'ish red (if that's a color, haha) for the color changers, which hook to GI as usual, and tied the UV into the spinner flasher.
Cool thing about the UV hook-up (which photographs a little bit more intense than it is in reality, or so it seems) is now when I rip the spinner, not only do tdiddy 's Tesla towers flash (along with Mezel's building fire hook-up), but a wild UV electric glow pulsates the back 1/3 of the playfield, catching all kinds of cool angles. Truly looks electric!!!
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That playfield is badass.

With all the negative bashing, etc. that goes on in forums, THIS is an example of how great they can be. That's pretty cool.

Nice buttons, baby.

Finally gave in and bought some Tilt game blades. I think they look really good in the machine and add to that "world under glass" aspect. While I was there I picked up a shooter plate, flipper button guards, flipper toppers, and a new pingulp. I am a fan of most of it, but will be taking the flipper button guards off unless I am taking my pin to a free play event.

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Your welcome. Glad to help.

So who all sells game blades for this now? Wizard, Tilt, and eventually Stern?

2/3 isn’t bad lol. I have the wizard ones and look great. Really good quality. I did not want to wait for stern to release them. They can’t even get Mando premiums out from or shooter rod. Forget about the topper at this point.

I get these. No issues.

https://www.pinballlife.com/flipper-coil-stop-for-sternsega.html

Hey there. Happy New Year to everyone. As far as the coil stops everyone complains about, are you changing ALL coil stops, just the flipper coil stops, or only as necessary? Thanks. Have a good day.

I think i like those better too, the monsters are actually on there, the TILT ones are just cityscape - but they look good too! I just prefer more monsters!

Flippers only.

Sleeves are cheap enough do them at the same time.

Every single flipper takes these stops. All stern and sega games since like 2000s easy peasy. Buy spares.

Yeah, the Pinball Life coil stops have been good for 4000+ games in my Deadpool and 3000+ in my AIQ so far. I also change the sleeves, both are cheap and super easy.

Some other coil stops in the machine are not changeable or not easily changeable (I don't have my GZ Premium yet, but in my other Stern machines this is the case).

Don’t touch any coil stops that aren’t on the flippers. It’s not necessary.

Yeah, haven't encountered any other coil stop related issues through the years, other than on flippers.

That’s why I went with wizard. Colors match the playfield better.