You might be losing a little flipper power. I had to adjust the EOS for all flippers. It definitely helped the shots. You still have to nail them, but not as many shots poop back out.
You might be losing a little flipper power. I had to adjust the EOS for all flippers. It definitely helped the shots. You still have to nail them, but not as many shots poop back out.
Quoted from BallyKISS1978:I was thinking of lermods one. I didn’t know Chris did them. I don’t see it on their site.
Johnbeatle left a link a few posts back. Chris makes them coincide with the translite. Pretty cool
looks great. like it should be included in a 7k game . now all you get is a superbright led from a tiny main board /
these games went up in pricing and now can't even give you interactive backbox Lighting anymore that you have to buy from modders..Lol Cheap arse Stern .
Quoted from Johnbeatle:Just installed this LED backbox kit from Cointaker. Pretty good I think...
Look inside a Pro GOTG where's the beef.. Tell me this Looks Expensively made and should be upwards of 6 to 7 k ? HOMEPINS YAY / Sterns Stock Prices should have Risen considerably being they are Gouging consumers
1b58ff8ef008938c9309a6c66acb0c3839127d3a (resized).jpgcc223d99086256b0562cb3f5518450937d5f5911 (resized).jpgI dont see the problem. Less mess, fairly bulletproof electronics, easier for me to work on. And the games keep gettin better and better.
Quoted from Allibaster:For those folks that have the bank mod, what tool are you using to trim Godzilla’s elbow?
If you painted him, what did you do about the back spikes? Some of the inside areas of the spikes look tough to reach.
[quoted image]
I just painted mine yesterday. Literally used a chop saw as if he were a 2x4… ha. Worked fine.
Pretty pleased with it…thinking HARD about running a small blue led into top of his mouth… im not 100% sold on the blue tongue but it matches the artwork. Looks good when lit by the spotlight. Gonna finish with a spray of semi gloss clear tomorrow.
419759C7-3427-4702-83CB-811F9CCDC2A1 (resized).jpeg7B84039A-AE8A-4449-9086-3084DEAC276E (resized).jpegB959A285-6991-4FF6-BC52-B779CFBBEF57 (resized).jpegBBF06ED8-4DCC-4056-96C4-075E3B74BED2 (resized).jpegCD8BA19F-AE8D-4183-9190-07DFAE0DD71B (resized).jpegD97C6A7D-8A43-441F-9358-6B88C8463471 (resized).jpegDE3A500F-296B-4ADB-812D-53B898EB3A00 (resized).jpegEC219283-E564-495B-A806-898F8CEDBC6D (resized).jpegQuoted from BallyKISS1978:Ordered this to make as a topper. Will go with RGB, or green LEDs. I have the Neca movie poster Godzilla in the game so decided to go with this 1954 Godzilla.
[quoted image]
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Holy shit. That's great.
Ordered this to make as a topper. Will go with RGB, or green LEDs. I have the Neca movie poster Godzilla in the game so decided to go with this 1954 Godzilla.
[quoted image]
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quotedDamn. That's cool - so is all the stuff on the shelves!
Quoted from PinFever:Look inside a Pro GOTG where's the beef.. Tell me this Looks Expensively made and should be upwards of 6 to 7 k ? HOMEPINS YAY / Sterns Stock Prices should have Risen considerably being they are Gouging consumers
So smaller, newer technology should be cheaper becase it is smaller?
Quoted from Strummy:So smaller, newer technology should be cheaper becase it is smaller?
Of course!! Bring back the brick and all the extra parts and weight, so I can get rid of this stupid Galaxy phone with its high speed internet and 4K video camera built in.
Personally I think the simple SPIKE 2 CPU with the built in LEDs is a great replacement for the nasty old florescent tube, and I prefer it to the backbox sets because of the ability to have them dim during game play. If I buy a game with one of those backbox kits in it, the previous owner gets to keep it.
brick-phone (resized).jpgQuoted from BallyKISS1978:I noticed that also on Godzilla. AIQ flippers feel way stronger, especially the upper flipper compared to Godzilla. On AIQ I have no problem hitting the right ramp. Feels like a struggle on Godzilla.
Avengers is using 090-5032 coils across the board - all three flippers.
Godzilla is using ONE 090-5020 on the right and a 5030 and a 5032, and the 5030 is turned down to like 160 stock. So the feel might be a combination of mixed-strength coils with different power settings in the system menu instead of the same coil across the board like Avengers. I turned my upper left one up to like 180 or 190, and bumped the lower ones a little (they're already pretty high). The R flipper has a stronger coil than the left already.
Quoted from PinFever:looks great. like it should be included in a 7k game . now all you get is a superbright led from a tiny main board /
these games went up in pricing and now can't even give you interactive backbox Lighting anymore that you have to buy from modders..Lol Cheap arse Stern .Look inside a Pro GOTG where's the beef.. Tell me this Looks Expensively made and should be upwards of 6 to 7 k ? HOMEPINS YAY / Sterns Stock Prices should have Risen considerably being they are Gouging consumers [quoted image][quoted image]
Yeah yeah we know. Call bally/Williams and see what their next game is..oh wait.
Quoted from tedwasright:Holy shit. That's great.
Will post pics when I get it. Hopefully it ships soon. Can’t wait!!
Quoted from Strummy:Johnbeatle left a link a few posts back. Chris makes them coincide with the translite. Pretty cool
Thanks!!
Quoted from Johnbeatle:Just installed this LED backbox kit from Cointaker. Pretty good I think...
You just cost me more money. Looks awesome.
Quoted from wisefwumyogwave:Yeah yeah we know. Call bally/Williams and see what their next game is..oh wait.
What settings are you guys using for your 10 band equalizer and sound settings? I am using an external sub with a pinnovators external sub kit. Thanks for any help.
Quoted from John_I:Of course!! Bring back the brick and all the extra parts and weight, so I can get rid of this stupid Galaxy phone with its high speed internet and 4K video camera built in.
Personally I think the simple SPIKE 2 CPU with the built in LEDs is a great replacement for the nasty old florescent tube, and I prefer it to the backbox sets because of the ability to have them dim during game play. If I buy a game with one of those backbox kits in it, the previous owner gets to keep it.
[quoted image]
Agreed. Every Spike game I’ve owned has been absolutely flawless (kiss of death) and the backbox dimmer is one of my favorite features of the Spike 2 system. Those little LEDs on that board can really make that art on the translight/backglass really pop but also the glare has never been more pronounced.
Quoted from PinMonk:Avengers is using 090-5032 coils across the board - all three flippers.
Godzilla is using ONE 090-5020 on the right and a 5030 and a 5032, and the 5030 is turned down to like 160 stock. So the feel might be a combination of mixed-strength coils with different power settings in the system menu instead of the same coil across the board like Avengers. I turned my upper left one up to like 180 or 190, and bumped the lower ones a little (they're already pretty high). The R flipper has a stronger coil than the left already.
My right flipper never felt right, swapped out the button with a spare I had ,now it feels perfect. Just wasn't smooth feelin before
Quoted from Hayfarmer:My right flipper never felt right, swapped out the button with a spare I had ,now it feels perfect. Just wasn't smooth feelin before
Yep, button and flipper switch blade gaps can also make a difference in feel.
Quoted from matt68061:I just painted mine yesterday. Literally used a chop saw as if he were a 2x4… ha. Worked fine.
Pretty pleased with it…thinking HARD about running a small blue led into top of his mouth… im not 100% sold on the blue tongue but it matches the artwork. Looks good when lit by the spotlight. Gonna finish with a spray of semi gloss clear tomorrow.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
The color scheme looks spot on. Mind sharing what type of paint & colors you used? Thx.
Quoted from matt68061:I just painted mine yesterday. Literally used a chop saw as if he were a 2x4… ha. Worked fine.
Pretty pleased with it…thinking HARD about running a small blue led into top of his mouth… im not 100% sold on the blue tongue but it matches the artwork. Looks good when lit by the spotlight. Gonna finish with a spray of semi gloss clear tomorrow.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
That looks awesome. We’ll done!
Quoted from PinDeadHead:The color scheme looks spot on. Mind sharing what type of paint & colors you used? Thx.
Thanks… it was just acryllic paint I stole from my wifes craft room…. I believe it was “Folkart” bought from Michaels or Hobby Lobby.
Used 2-3 different greens and some yellow…. Mixed into 4-5 shades and just thinly layered them on. Have to let each layer dry or it all just blends together.
For the blues I started with a purple/navy mix and just lightened the blues up to nearly white towards the top of his scutes. (Not a word you get to use every day…ha!). Use 3 shades of blue.
When it was dry I cleaned all the brushes in a small dish water and added a dab of black paint. With a very runny dark mix, almost water in consistency, I lighly brushed that in places and let it run down through the crevices in his scales…dabbing in places with a paper towel. Gave it a nice depth…kind of a “low lighting” if you will.
Wasted the last three hours looking at small LED’s… considering sticking one in the roof of his mouth .
Good luck!
Quoted from matt68061:Thanks… it was just acryllic paint I stole from my wifes craft room…. I believe it was “Folkart” bought from Michaels or Hobby Lobby.
Used 2-3 different greens and some yellow…. Mixed into 4-5 shades and just thinly layered them on. Have to let each layer dry or it all just blends together.
For the blues I started with a purple/navy mix and just lightened the blues up to nearly white towards the top of his scutes. (Not a word you get to use every day…ha!). Use 3 shades of blue.
When it was dry I cleaned all the brushes in a small dish water and added a dab of black paint. With a very runny dark mix, almost water in consistency, I lighly brushed that in places and let it run down through the crevices in his scales…dabbing in places with a paper towel. Gave it a nice depth…kind of a “low lighting” if you will.
Wasted the last three hours looking at small LED’s… considering sticking one in the roof of his mouth .
Good luck!
Nice work how many inches did you cut off the bottom im working on mine know
Quoted from Delta9:Nice work how many inches did you cut off the bottom im working on mine know
Quoted from Delta9:Nice work how many inches did you cut off the bottom im working on mine know
maybe 2/3 or just a bit over 1/2 inch…. I also did a little notch in his belly where a nut is on the mounting plate plastic.
C8003606-0A9F-41E3-B88F-BE391A2FD1CC (resized).jpegQuoted from Delta9:[quoted image]
Looks great…. Having second thoughts on the blue tongue on mine…
Quoted from matt68061:Looks great…. Having second thoughts on the blue tongue on mine…
Just stick a blue ice cream in his hand. Blue tongue origin story.
Quoted from PinMonk:Just stick a blue ice cream in his hand. Blue tongue origin story.
Now that made me chuckle….
Just wanted to share some progress I've been making on my GDZ Pro.
-Changed all stock cool white GI bulbs for 2 SMD warm whites (along with the stock left spotlight and 3 backboard lights).
-Added 2 towered spots at left sling, doubled up the spots at the stock left spotlight, added an additional spot just beyond that (hooked to the red-yellow GI to give some additional light during the "red light" GI modes, as it can get a bit dark during those times).
-Added 2 towered spots at the far left in front of Godzilla (1 Comet fire bulb, 1 warm white).
-Added 2 towered spots behind the scoop sign (1 fire bulb facing mechagodzilla, 1 warm white facing the far center pf).
-Removed the stock cool white apron lighting and changed to Comet 6SMD warm white lights, along with warm white trough light (pic below).
-Added the piggy bank Godzilla, painted it and was able to fit it in without shaving his arm (touches but not jammed on the side of Drake building, but about 2cm from the left sidewall...looks more like he's creeping around the corner which is cool, little additional perspective). Did of course have to shave an inch or so off of the bottom so that his head didn't hit the playfield glass.
-Added a Mechagodzilla figure (and after attaching the music wire, I added foam padding underneath, which sticks nicely to the underside of the toy. I added a pic of this because I frequently add toys/mods that sit on pf plastics that are hooked to local nuts, bolts, etc and I thought this was a nice way to protect the pf plastics it sits on and wanted to share that).
-Added a battle tank at the right outline.
-Added Tilt's right ramp decal.
-Added Lermods bridge with interactive green flasher (which is a nice additional lighting accent to Godzilla and goes nicely with the new ww and fire bulb spots).
-Added shaker from PBL (nicely integrated).
-Added the Flipper Fidelity LE Speaker kit (and also using the Pinnovators hook-up to 10" external sub) and the sound is kicking!
*Looking forward to receiving @tditty 's Tesla Strike Towers and bamboo plane mods.
*Have side blades and apron decal coming from Wizard Mods, which Im excited to get.
*Looking forward to receiving the pop bumper UFO mod as well...that'll be cool.
*Do have some of Mezel's building facades on the way for the Drake building as well as for the noodle shop on the right end Subway building on the left. I think that those will give a nice upgraded look.
*Did order an equivalent size Mothra figure to the backboard plastic, which I plan to hover in front of that plastic like its flying. I plan to hook up a hidden spotlight to that figure from underneath, tied into the Mothra backboard light. I think that'll look cool, and somewhat interactive lighting, as that light isn't always on.
Still playing around with game pitch. Was pretty happy at 7-7.2 degrees, but am going to try 6.8-ish degrees this weekend based on the plethora of recommendations of that slope. Who knows what'll feel best... May also play with the flipper coil strength power. This is the first time in a while, if I'm not mistaken, that Stern flipper coils aren't already at its max amount on factory settings to begin with.
This is such a great game...hard to believe the code is just gonna keep developing and getting better and better...its already pretty damn awesome.
1 (resized).jpg2 (resized).jpg3 (resized).jpg4 (resized).jpg5 (resized).jpg
Okay, okay... I'm a believer.
Just played some games at 6.8° pitch and man oh man it was like a totally different game!!! It was not floaty at all...was fast and fun and compared to my previous settings, seemed to have smoother ball flow. Also took the above recommendation from PinMonk and raised the power on the left upper flipper to 180, and went up by about five points or so on the lower flippers.
Previously I was at 7.1- 7.2° with some earlier recommendations of slightly leaning to the left, and don't get me wrong, I really enjoyed playing with these settings, however, when I made the above adjustment to 6.8°(and made everything perfectly level to start out with), it was perfect and the ball travel felt intuitive and arguably flowed so much more smoothly.
6.8° and perfectly level it is!
Quoted from aeonblack:I have my game maxed out on the leg levelers and it's sitting at 8 degrees. That's how I know our league/tournament games are going to be set up, so that's what I play on (hell, they might even end up with 2x4's under the back legs). I see some massive scores and I wonder if ya'll are that much better than me or if you're just at a much lower slant, as I've yet to see a single other person say this is how they are set up to play.
Increasing steepness does not always make the game harder. In fact going too steep can make the game alot easier
1. Less outlane drains, because left/right movement is drastically reduced
2. Sounds strange at first but game is actually slowed down because the upward movement is reduced! Hitting targets softer results in less rebounce and less chaos.
You should not deviate much from the recommended pitch in order to keep the overall physics right. In tournaments games are not only put very steep, some become much harder in a floatier setting due to outlane tendency. Wider outlane gap or removing posts and changing ball save timers and other software features as well as tightning the tilt are all effective together in order to reduce playtime
Mainly tournament games are steep because it makes them faster. Faster is more fun. To a point. If the game plays fast and like shit, that’s bad. Make the game fast and still be able to hit all the shots.
Make a game harder with reduced debounce, sensitive slings, and wide open outlanes.
Quoted from PinMonk:Avengers is using 090-5032 coils across the board - all three flippers.
Godzilla is using ONE 090-5020 on the right and a 5030 and a 5032, and the 5030 is turned down to like 160 stock. So the feel might be a combination of mixed-strength coils with different power settings in the system menu instead of the same coil across the board like Avengers. I turned my upper left one up to like 180 or 190, and bumped the lower ones a little (they're already pretty high). The R flipper has a stronger coil than the left already.
Ordering new avengers coils now..........damn you monk!
Quoted from PinFever:Look inside a Pro GOTG where's the beef.. Tell me this Looks Expensively made and should be upwards of 6 to 7 k ? HOMEPINS YAY / Sterns Stock Prices should have Risen considerably being they are Gouging consumers [quoted image][quoted image]
Yeah, I have a hard time enjoying Godzilla because I can’t stop thinking about how few wires and boards and solenoids are under the playfield
Might as well pop open a VCR and then a DVD player and cry “where’s the beef?” Look at a Nintendo cartridge and now a Switch game, or how about a floppy disk and a micro sd card?
Like all tech, pinball manufacturing has gotten a lot more efficient since the early 90s. I know this is gonna hurt, but that’s getting to be almost a 1/3 of a century ago.
Quoted from KingVidiot:Yeah, I have a hard time enjoying Godzilla because I can’t stop thinking about how few wires and boards and solenoids are under the playfield
Might as well pop open a VCR and then a DVD player and cry “where’s the beef?”
Like all tech, pinball manufacturing has gotten a lot more efficient since the early 90s. I know this is gonna hurt, but that’s getting to be almost a 1/3 of a century ago.
Couldn’t agree more, just wish they had spare boards more readily available for the spike 2 stuff because when your down for 4 months waiting for a node board it really sucks!
Quoted from KingVidiot:Yeah, I have a hard time enjoying Godzilla because I can’t stop thinking about how few wires and boards and solenoids are under the playfield
Might as well pop open a VCR and then a DVD player and cry “where’s the beef?”
Like all tech, pinball manufacturing has gotten a lot more efficient since the early 90s. I know this is gonna hurt, but that’s getting to be almost a 1/3 of a century ago.
To get machines in and out of my basement, each and every time I need to remove the head. Funny how this comes up when I was just thinking the other day " Dam you Stern" for making it only 8 plugs to disconnect now for this process instead of the 70+ I had to do in the past. I mean really who do they think they are trying to make improvements, don't they know we love the past. In fact lets go back to all those alpha numeric displays too instead of these color LCD displays
My pool sharks was real pinball. So many boards they literally had to be stuffed into the head. 100 connectors and weighed a ton just so we could have a game less complex than the most stripped down stern.
Quoted from WizzardRob:Increasing steepness does not always make the game harder. In fact going too steep can make the game alot easier
It does on almost all games I've owned. Sensitive slings don't suddenly lose their ability to drain the ball. Speed kills!
Quoted from KingVidiot:Yeah, I have a hard time enjoying Godzilla because I can’t stop thinking about how few wires and boards and solenoids are under the playfield.
Nothing wrong with a little criticism for stern. I think we deserve a light show in the blackbox, a knocker, a quality PSU, and through-hole transistors for the price. But I'll overpay for Elwin's insanely good designs. *Sigh*
Quoted from chuckwurt:I’m glad I can only have the backbox on for attract mode and off during play. Glare sucks.
I cut my backbox brightness to 50% during attract too. It reduces heat discoloration on the CPU node around the LEDs.
Quoted from chuckwurt:I’m glad I can only have the backbox on for attract mode and off during play. Glare sucks.
Always turn mine down for gameplay too! Helps with videos.
Now I’m gonna try this 6.8 degrees madness.
2 things I like about 6.5 and hope it stays the same. Sometimes when I hit the ball just right through the bottom left spinner it almost goes through the top loop. Anybody got that to go all the way through yet? Is it designed for that? I’ve already noticed it seems to go through the tail whip shot more when shooting through that spinner at 6.8
The other shot is sometimes it jumps off mechagodzilla onto the wire ramp, and I live when that happens.
Made a topper today.
Got the figure from eBay https://www.mymoviemonsters.com/store.php/mymoviemonsters/pd9818852/diamond_select_godzilla_gallery_diorama_1991_godzilla_vs._king_ghidorah_statue?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIzrn3ssOO9QIVD21vBB2-ZAtzEAsYAiABEgIILPD_BwE
Put it at a forward slope so you can see more of the details when at the machine, hooked 2 LED strips underneath the figure facing up through the transparent water (blue and warm white), a third LED strip in front facing forward (warm white), and a hid a Comet fire post light by the front strip facing forward to bring the flames. All hooked to GI.
Figure and lighting all attached solidly onto a piece of plexiglass and then velcro stripped to the top of the backbox.
Quoted from PinFever:looks great. like it should be included in a 7k game . now all you get is a superbright led from a tiny main board /
these games went up in pricing and now can't even give you interactive backbox Lighting anymore that you have to buy from modders..Lol Cheap arse Stern .Look inside a Pro GOTG where's the beef.. Tell me this Looks Expensively made and should be upwards of 6 to 7 k ? HOMEPINS YAY / Sterns Stock Prices should have Risen considerably being they are Gouging consumers [quoted image][quoted image]
who the hell wants bright backboxes anyway? I set all my backbox light to 10% when playing. Cuts down on glare. You do NOT want a lit up backbox when you are trying to play.
Quoted from chuckwurt:I’m glad I can only have the backbox on for attract mode and off during play. Glare sucks.
Is that easy to do? I don't have mine yet.
Quoted from tedwasright:Is that easy to do? I don't have mine yet.
Very easy. There are three settings in the menu. One for attract mode; leave it at 100% here. One for in-game; I like about 10-15%. One for service mode; 2% so you are not blinded when you take off the backglass.
Quoted from John_I:Very easy. There are three settings in the menu. One for attract mode; leave it at 100% here. One for in-game; I like about 10-15%. One for service mode; 2% so you are not blinded when you take off the backglass.
Thank you.
Quoted from CaptainNeo:who the hell wants bright backboxes anyway? I set all my backbox light to 10% when playing. Cuts down on glare. You do NOT want a lit up backbox when you are trying to play.
Every 90s machine I own has great lightshows in the backbox. Hasn't affected gameplay yet... Maybe I'm missing all this glare that everyone hates. A few darker games might get it bad I guess.
Quoted from ChipScott:Made a topper today.
Got the figure from eBay https://www.mymoviemonsters.com/store.php/mymoviemonsters/pd9818852/diamond_select_godzilla_gallery_diorama_1991_godzilla_vs._king_ghidorah_statue?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIzrn3ssOO9QIVD21vBB2-ZAtzEAsYAiABEgIILPD_BwE
Put it at a forward slope so you can see more of the details when at the machine, hooked 2 LED strips underneath the figure facing up through the transparent water (blue and warm white), a third LED strip in front facing forward (warm white), and a hid a Comet fire post light by the front strip facing forward to bring the flames. All hooked to GI.
Figure and lighting all attached solidly onto a piece of plexiglass and then velcro stripped to the top of the backbox.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Well done, this looks fantastic. Thought of picking up the same piece for my premium along with their King Ghidorah that lines up with this sculpt. My concern is the way they connect there may not be enough space on the top of the back box. I like the way you mounted this as well, nicely done.
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