(Topic ID: 300354)

Stern Godzilla Official Owners Club King Elwin

By beltking

8 months ago


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Topic Stats

  • 10,844 posts
  • 829 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 hours ago by joey_skittlz
  • Topic is favorited by 527 Pinsiders

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Topic poll

“What model did you order?”

  • PRO 147 votes
    20%
  • PREMIUM 383 votes
    51%
  • LIMITED EDITION!!! 216 votes
    29%

(746 votes)

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Topic index (key posts)

14 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items. (Show topic index)

There are 10,844 posts in this topic. You are on page 105 of 217.
#5201 4 months ago
Quoted from JWE:

Great mod for the Pro, the plastic figure is way too small. Thanks for the info, Just finished mine and now waiting for my Diddys bridge mod to ship / arrive. [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Nice work!

#5202 4 months ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

You just need the SLE1 Tibetan Breeze kit and the Dual Fan magnet cooling kit (the magnet kit will be in my pinside store here and on pinmonk.com later today). That'll cool all three flippers and put two fans on the magnet coil (one fan on each side).

Order placed, Thank you sir

--Ron

#5203 4 months ago
Quoted from navajas:

Thanks for the reply! Can you point me in the right direction / link a good source about the giving the flipper mechs a once over? Coil stops?

I'd be sure to check:

- operate the flipper by hand, make sure it rotates smoothly and isn't physically binding from some issue. Compare against the other flippers.
- flipper bat gap/clearance against the Playfield - it would not surprise me if this isn't your problem. The right flipper on my IMDN was too tight from the factory, making it hard to backhand the center ramp. A quick way to check is just to grab the flipper and make sure it has a little tolerance/slop when you wiggle it up (away from the Playfield surface) and down. If it's tight and won't budge with no clearance, then you need to set it correctly. I have a gauge tool, but I think I've heard a business card or maybe credit card can be used. I think if you find Vid's (Vid1900 I think is the full user name?) flipper rebuild thread it will cover setting this gap and probably covers a diy method/gauge.
- check the end of stroke (EOS) switch on that flipper. The rebuild thread should cover this too, but if triggering too early it can cause a weak flipper.
- coil sleeve - go ahead and buy a few/replace this one if you don't find anything else wrong. Pinball life will have them.
- coil stop - same, go ahead and replace when doing the sleeve.

Edit: here's Vids guide: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-upgradingrebuilding-flippers

Obviously it's mostly for older flipper rebuilds, but covers the basics. Post 17 and 18 cover the flipper shaft gap spacing bit. You really should just be able to wiggle/pull the flipper up and down and get a sense for if this needs to be addressed further, for a quick check.

#5204 4 months ago
Quoted from mbl1116:

Was playing my premium tonight and i heard something drop into the cabinet. I lifted the playfield and found this towards the back. I spent about 20 min with the playfield up trying to find the bolt it fell off off with no luck. Put everything back and played another 10 or so games with no issue. Guess i just wait till i see something jiggle too much?
[quoted image]

My distro likes to bring the machines in and test before delivery or pickup. He said over the last year it has been not uncommon to find hardware that has been dropped and not located/removed during manufacturing.

Main reason he likes to test machines before customers receive them.

#5205 4 months ago

No, you can not mount a 5.25" speaker on a 4" speaker plate without some sort of adapter (or ditching the 4" speaker plates for the proper 5.25" speaker plates). Buying upgraded 5.25" speakers and then cheaping out to stick them behind the original 4" speaker plates....I just don't get it. Especially when some people are selling these adapters for almost as much as the proper 5.25" speaker plates cost. What Allibaster has pictured on the right is mounted on a 5.25" speaker plate.

I'm not sure who you are asking. It appears Allibaster went with the 5.25" Pyle PL53BL and many people go with the 5.25" Kenwood KFC-1366s that Stern uses in most of their LE games from the factory. I don't think there is anything you can do to make those cointaker knock off light kits work with 5.25" speakers. Maybe you could put some sort of adapter between the back of the light kit and the speaker, but I'm expecting that would make their bad looking light kits look even worse if that could be done.
You could also get upgraded 4" speakers that should mount the same as the factory pro and premium speakers. The 4" Pyle model would be PL42BL, but I'm expecting nearly any 4" speaker would be a step up from the default Stern speakers and, as I said, mount the same without any need for an adapter or different speaker plates.

That’s what I wanted to know. A good 4” speaker to upgrade to. Thank you!

#5206 4 months ago
Quoted from spblat:

My Pro speakers were bad to begin with and started to get worse over time. Buzzing and distorting almost from day one. It’s not surprising, they’re super-cheap speakers and it’s a demanding soundtrack. I went with the 10” flipper fidelity kit at pinball life because 8” was out of stock. No crossovers or volume controls are needed because you can tweak all that in software. I didn’t have to upgrade my Infinity Quest or Jurassic Park Pro which are still sounding good. Anyway IMHO speakers are a must upgrade for Godzilla Pro day one—just before the shaker, which I haven’t done yet but should.
Enjoy your new game. The hype about it is true.

Thank you! I played the pro on location and loved it. Also played an LE. Wasn’t worth the upgrade for $2300.

#5207 4 months ago
Quoted from DugFreez:

No, you can not mount a 5.25" speaker on a 4" speaker plate without some sort of adapter (or ditching the 4" speaker plates for the proper 5.25" speaker plates). Buying upgraded 5.25" speakers and then cheaping out to stick them behind the original 4" speaker plates....I just don't get it. Especially when some people are selling these adapters for almost as much as the proper 5.25" speaker plates cost. What Allibaster has pictured on the right is mounted on a 5.25" speaker plate.

I'm not sure who you are asking. It appears Allibaster went with the 5.25" Pyle PL53BL and many people go with the 5.25" Kenwood KFC-1366s that Stern uses in most of their LE games from the factory. I don't think there is anything you can do to make those cointaker knock off light kits work with 5.25" speakers. Maybe you could put some sort of adapter between the back of the light kit and the speaker, but I'm expecting that would make their bad looking light kits look even worse if that could be done.
You could also get upgraded 4" speakers that should mount the same as the factory pro and premium speakers. The 4" Pyle model would be PL42BL, but I'm expecting nearly any 4" speaker would be a step up from the default Stern speakers and, as I said, mount the same without any need for an adapter or different speaker plates.
EDIT: I guess if you did get upgraded 4" speakers that have extended tweeters, you may have to add some space to the front of the speaker (between the speaker and the speaker plate). Though, I have heard there are good 4" upgrade speakers that have a lower profile tweeter that do not need any additional space in front.

I know nothing was meant by it and I see this a lot....., but I don't like the term "adapter" when talking about the 5.25" speaker plates. They are not adapting anything. They are 5.25" speaker plates for 5.25" speakers. If you are sticking a 5.25" on a 4" speaker plate you would be using an adapter (which, as I said, people do sell), but using the proper 5.25" mounting plates for 5.25" speakers is just using the right item to get desired effect correctly.
Doug (SpeakerLightKits.com)

Thanks just wanted to know what a good 4” speaker to use. I didn’t want to go with 5 1/4” and buy a mounting plate and not be able to use my cointaker speaker lights.

#5208 4 months ago
Quoted from sirlonzelot:

Add this to my machine, and yeah it is interactive

[quoted image]

How you did it would be great to know.

#5209 4 months ago

Thanks and appreciate your guidance.

#5210 4 months ago
Quoted from Txcoastal1:

My distro likes to bring the machines in and test before delivery or pickup. He said over the last year it has been not uncommon to find hardware that has been dropped and not located/removed during manufacturing.
Main reason he likes to test machines before customers receive them.

So just keep playing til something looks wrong i guess

#5211 4 months ago

So I installed Tdiddy's tesla towers and some plastic protectors and they are fantastic. But Im wondering if I ever so slightly changed the height of the ball guide. Now suddenly Im getting a few airballs and the ball will make hard contact with that lower rail here and there. I just noticed this little ding in the middle of the wireform. Is this normal and already there? Or is this from contact with the ball?

ALso just put up 1.45B which is by far my new high so thats nice.

20211224_012050254_iOS (resized).jpg
#5212 4 months ago

The mechagodzilla is a stucky ball mess. Anybody tried re-posing the arms with a heat gun or anything?

#5213 4 months ago

replying to my own pic above. i dont think a ball did that. its crinked on both sides. and theres another spot in another area the ball didnt hit. Im guessing thats like that since the wireform is long in that area without support.

But I do wish the ball didnt air ball and hit

#5214 4 months ago
Quoted from sirlonzelot:

Add this to my machine, and yeah it is interactive

[quoted image]

That is awesome!!!
What did you do / use to get that effect!?

#5215 4 months ago

Found a couple of nice 3” figures of Mothra and Jet Jag
FC154E9C-6B44-46AF-9B0E-7672036593D4 (resized).jpeg

21
#5216 4 months ago

So i have finally found my first major flaw in the game and I am not sure anyone else has experienced it yet. I own an iron maiden, wonka, Metallica, strikes N spairs and a fully restored taxi but the problem I am running into is my guest's do not want to play anything but Godzilla! And I'm not talking one game, it's game after game after game. These are the same people who just a month ago loved the other games. Hopefully a code update will fix this but I think this is a fatal flaw to the game and I don't think can they fix it. I guess I will just have to accept and live with it.

#5217 4 months ago
Quoted from navajas:

I'm concerned that my left flipper is a little weak. I'm not a pro, but I'm not a rank novice, and there are shots I would definitely expect to score that die almost up, before coming back down to drain (if I'm already on tilt warnings). And I'm not crazy right, that thing is fading in power as I play it? New rubbers? Weak coils?
Would different balls help?
Does it come cleaned and waxed? Do I need to do that already?
It's totally possible there's an existing FAQ or thread covering this shit already. If so, feel free to just point me to it.

Get a simple analog inclinometer - https://www.homedepot.com/p/Empire-Polycast-Magnetic-Protractor-36/100165800?MERCH=REC-_-searchViewed-_-NA-_-100165800-_-N and you'll never worry about those inconsistently mounted bubble levels

Use anywhere from 6.5 to 6.9 or so incline on your game to your tastes.

The right ramp is a simple shot - shots from the left flipper should go around that shot with authority easily. shots from the upper flipper to the ramp are more likely to drain then make the ramp.

Game is not waxed from factory - but this wouldn't impact your ability to make shots. That's just nice preventative care to do.

You don't need to worry about rubbers or balls - It's going to be playfield pitch, and your mechanical flipper action. The one thing to look for with new Sterns is make sure the coil stop hasn't failed - that will always lead to weak flippers. The pressed back of the coil stop should be solid, and not rotate or move at all in the coil stop bracket. If you can press on it and it moves, or it rotates. It's junk and needs to be replaced.

#5218 4 months ago
Quoted from navajas:

I'm concerned that my left flipper is a little weak. I'm not a pro, but I'm not a rank novice, and there are shots I would definitely expect to score that die almost up, before coming back down to drain (if I'm already on tilt warnings). And I'm not crazy right, that thing is fading in power as I play it? New rubbers? Weak coils?

I would check your EOS switch gap for the left flipper. If the End of Stroke is activating before the flipper is actually AT the end of stroke it can make the flipper feel weak because it goes into hold power prematurely.

Glass off (rest the glass on something, not on cold cement if it's in a garage or something). Put the game in switch test mode. Slowly raise the right flipper with your hand and note when the EOS triggers on screen. It should be right as the flipper maxes out in the up position. Then compare that to the left flipper. If the Left is triggering the EOS switch prematurely, adjust the blades of the switch so they don't activate until the flipper is at max stroke. You'll probably have to test, adjust a few times to get it right if this is the issue.
flipper EOS (resized).jpg

Oh, and also check the coil stop. Stern notoriously has been shipping pins with crappy coils stops for YEARS. Do you seen any gold "dust" in the cabinet below the left flipper? The coil stop could be going bad, but not quite loose enough to cause a sticking flipper, another telltale sign. Worth checkout out if the EOS checks out ok.

#5219 4 months ago
Quoted from BallyKISS1978:

How you did it would be great to know.

Gabriele build me a controller, that allows that. Nice Guy

#5220 4 months ago
Quoted from bowtech:

So i have finally found my first major flaw in the game and I am not sure anyone else has experienced it yet. I own an iron maiden, wonka, Metallica, strikes N spairs and a fully restored taxi but the problem I am running into is my guest's do not want to play anything but Godzilla! And I'm not talking one game, it's game after game after game. These are the same people who just a month ago loved the other games. Hopefully a code update will fix this but I think this is a fatal flaw to the game and I don't think can they fix it. I guess I will just have to accept and live with it.

Yep I’ve experienced the same flaw. It’s the only game I want to play now, and I play at least 10 games every night. My other machines are feeling very jealous.

19
#5221 4 months ago

I just put the finishing touches on a mod to stop the Godzilla multi-ball SDTM issue. I have been testing this for the past few weeks and it works great. All three balls feed to the left flipper and you get a nice separation after they rebound off the flipper. Regarding installation, it takes less than 5 minutes. You remove the 4 screws holding on the two standard plastics on top of the building, remove the spacers from the old plastics and put them on this mod, slide the baseplate into position, and add the four screws. I have about 6 mods ready to go at the moment. I am selling these for $45 each which includes shipping. The mod can be found here:

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1368-hurryuppinball/05681-godzilla-prem-le-building-mod-multi-ball-sdtm-fix

Stay safe and play more pinball!

DSC_0499-1 (resized).JPGDSC_0483-1 (resized).jpgDSC_0486-1 (resized).jpgDSC_0489-1 (resized).JPGDSC_0497-1 (resized).JPGDSC_0504-1 (resized).jpgDSC_0502-1 (resized).jpg Added 143 days ago:

Due to the cost of packaging materials and shipping fees, I have added a shipping fee of $4.95 to the item in the shop.

#5222 4 months ago
Quoted from sirlonzelot:

Gabriele build me a controller, that allows that. Nice Guy

Where did you hook it up to to get power? Looks awesome. Thank you!

#5223 4 months ago
Quoted from HurryUpPinball:

I just put the finishing touches on a mod to stop the Godzilla multi-ball SDTM issue. I have been testing this for the past few weeks and it works great. All three balls feed to the left flipper and you get a nice separation after they rebound off the flipper. Regarding installation, it takes less than 5 minutes. You remove the 4 screws holding on the two standard plastics on top of the building, remove the spacers from the old plastics and put them on this mod, slide the baseplate into position, and add the four screws. I have about 6 mods ready to go at the moment. I am selling these for $45 each which includes shipping. The mod can be found here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1368-hurryuppinball/05681-godzilla-prem-le-building-mod-multi-ball-sdtm-fix
Stay safe and play more pinball! [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

A small clear furniture bumper on the plate where the balls first exit the lock will separate them rather nicely too.

#5224 4 months ago
Quoted from BallyKISS1978:

Where did you hook it up to to get power? Looks awesome. Thank you!

For the power supply i uses the 12v that are in the backbox. For the trigger signals I use the coil from the right scoop and the red gi.

14
#5225 4 months ago
Quoted from Lounge:

Not to be an a-hole but a small clear furniture bumper on the plate where the balls first exit the lock will separate them rather nicely too.

There really is no SDTM issue! Just level your game!

Look the ball release is not centered on the playfield the building is located a notch more to the left, so SDTM means you need to raise the right side just a tiny little bit by turning the right leg levelers up

#5226 4 months ago
Quoted from HurryUpPinball:

I just put the finishing touches on a mod to stop the Godzilla multi-ball SDTM issue. I have been testing this for the past few weeks and it works great. All three balls feed to the left flipper and you get a nice separation after they rebound off the flipper. Regarding installation, it takes less than 5 minutes. You remove the 4 screws holding on the two standard plastics on top of the building, remove the spacers from the old plastics and put them on this mod, slide the baseplate into position, and add the four screws. I have about 6 mods ready to go at the moment. I am selling these for $45 each which includes shipping. The mod can be found here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1368-hurryuppinball/05681-godzilla-prem-le-building-mod-multi-ball-sdtm-fix
Stay safe and play more pinball! [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

That's a cool looking roof.

#5227 4 months ago

Has anyone done anything other than an le style powder coat on a pro? Or photoshopped it? Wondering what orange, yellow, green and red look like, so many colours on the art don’t know what would look good!

11
#5228 4 months ago
Quoted from NoSkills:

Has anyone done anything other than an le style powder coat on a pro? Or photoshopped it? Wondering what orange, yellow, green and red look like, so many colours on the art don’t know what would look good!

Godzilla Pro red.png
Godzilla Pro yellow.png
Godzilla Pro neon_green.pngGodzilla Pro orange.pngGodzilla Pro brown.png

Godzilla Pro dk_green.pngGodzilla Pro dk_blue.pngGodzilla Pro purple.pngGodzilla Pro lime_green.pngGodzilla Pro teal.png

#5229 4 months ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

[quoted image]
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Awesome! thank you

#5230 4 months ago

You can literally just loosen your screws on your top of your building and swivel the plastics just so to where they exit a little more left you might get about a 1/16 difference at most but that's all you need.

#5231 4 months ago

If anyone is interested in a backbox flasher mod for the PREMIUM only- includes shipping. Here's my humble little mod. It's plug and Play, easy bracket install in back box with existing screws, it uses a control board to go off the spinner switch input-(or any switch you choose)so you can program different effects(it will come preprogrammed), and later if you wish easily add more flashers in parallel, for instance on the playfield near Godzilla, behind his breathe, ect. individually fused and uses the un-used 12v power connector in the backbox, no power what so ever drawn from a node board, LE and pro not available yet. It looks amazing especially if you play with the backbox lights dimmed.

If interested PM me and I'll get a list together I'm waiting for parts to come in. Price is $65

#5232 4 months ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Thank you, that is great

#5233 4 months ago

Total noob question by someone doing this for a while….can’t seem to find the coil adjust menu. Seems to me. Am i missing something?

#5234 4 months ago
Quoted from VolunteerPin:

Total noob question by someone doing this for a while….can’t seem to find the coil adjust menu. Seems to me. Am i missing something?

Feature adjustments. The one with a picture of Godzilla.

#5235 4 months ago

Thanks! That was weird. Just missed it I guess. So, lowered trough eject power to its lowest setting and still plenty strong if anyone was interested. In fact, almost like nothing changed.

#5236 4 months ago
Quoted from VolunteerPin:

Thanks! That was weird. Just missed it I guess. So, lowered trough eject power to its lowest setting and still plenty strong if anyone was interested. In fact, almost like nothing changed.

Good to know. For some reason in AIQ, you can lowered so much that the balls won’t even be kicked out. Haha

#5237 4 months ago

Just set my aiq to 65 also and still kicks out fine. Just got both these couple weeks ago so time to level, wax, new balls, etc today. Been too busy playing to mess with that stuff before. Like em both, but Godzilla way more so far.

#5238 4 months ago

Perfect level side to side but only about 6.1 degree incline. Bump it up to maybe 6.7 or so?

Keep reading how sensitive this game is to pitch. Seems good right now playing it but maybe it could be better. Funny thing is the aiq was also perfect side to side but is at 7 incline.

#5239 4 months ago

Mines steeper. Like 6.7-6.9

#5240 4 months ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

If you can do the same for the premium, I will have my tibetan breeze flipper cooler kit ordered by eod. I'm looking specifically for fiery (orange titned) red.

#5241 4 months ago
Quoted from wisefwumyogwave:

If anyone is interested in a backbox flasher mod for the PREMIUM only- includes shipping. Here's my humble little mod. It's plug and Play, easy bracket install in back box with existing screws, it uses a control board to go off the spinner switch input-(or any switch you choose)so you can program different effects(it will come preprogrammed), and later if you wish easily add more flashers in parallel, for instance on the playfield near Godzilla, behind his breathe, ect. individually fused and uses the un-used 12v power connector in the backbox, no power what so ever drawn from a node board, LE and pro not available yet. It looks amazing especially if you play with the backbox lights dimmed.
If interested PM me and I'll get a list together I'm waiting for parts to come in. Price is $65

I’d love to see footage of this while the back box is lit.

#5242 4 months ago
Quoted from ShootTheRamp:

I have a Premium coming some day soon, hopefully. Does the speaker upgrade make a real noticeable difference?

If you don't hook an external sub to your game then maybe at higher volumes you will notice an improvement. Best sound upgrade is adding an external sub IMO.

#5243 4 months ago
Quoted from wisefwumyogwave:

If anyone is interested in a backbox flasher mod for the PREMIUM only- includes shipping. Here's my humble little mod. It's plug and Play, easy bracket install in back box with existing screws, it uses a control board to go off the spinner switch input-(or any switch you choose)so you can program different effects(it will come preprogrammed), and later if you wish easily add more flashers in parallel, for instance on the playfield near Godzilla, behind his breathe, ect. individually fused and uses the un-used 12v power connector in the backbox, no power what so ever drawn from a node board, LE and pro not available yet. It looks amazing especially if you play with the backbox lights dimmed.
If interested PM me and I'll get a list together I'm waiting for parts to come in. Price is $65

Pretty cool

#5244 4 months ago
Quoted from UnholySpectacle:

I’d love to see footage of this while the back box is lit.

There's no point, it only looks good with the backbox dimmed and is designed as such. I use 5%power in standard adjustment 92. If you don't do this I recommend it anyway. It reduces glare on the glass by a large margin. When my parts come in I'll activate the store I made.

#5245 4 months ago
Quoted from manadams:

If you don't hook an external sub to your game then maybe at higher volumes you will notice an improvement. Best sound upgrade is adding an external sub IMO.

I agree. Added the pinnovators sub adapter to all my stern spike II pins plus an external sub. Huge difference.

#5246 4 months ago

Im a little late to the thread.
Just got an LE.

Having issue with the turn table not moving back to the Original position.
Anyone?

28D28BA6-CCEF-47F3-944E-3515CF6D6BEA (resized).jpeg
#5247 4 months ago
Quoted from Lounge:

Not to be an a-hole but a small clear furniture bumper on the plate where the balls first exit the lock will separate them rather nicely too.

Funny thing is when people say you aren’t being one, you actually are. This is a good fix and won’t detach after play like a furniture bumper will.

#5248 4 months ago
Quoted from tvbenk:

Funny thing is when people say you aren’t being one, you actually are. This is a good fix and won’t detach after play like a furniture bumper will.

I've used them on a few of my games for trouble hang up spots. They stay on forever. With that said, the mod looks great.

#5249 4 months ago

hooked a psw10 subwoofer up to my machine using gweempose 's sub connector kit...that plus the shaker has made this so crazily immersive, it's not funny...

pasted_image (resized).png
#5250 4 months ago
Quoted from PiperPinball:

Im a little late to the thread.
Just got an LE.
Having issue with the turn table not moving back to the Original position.
Anyone?[quoted image]

Have you raised the playfield and inspected for interference? Loose switch/bracket? How does it operate in switch test?

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