love it. that's what I wanted to do as well. City buildings with damage action. Perfect job. Looks great.

I Finally Got the Flow Going on this Game. Pretty Much made it to the end of the new code , becaquse I accomplished evrything I could. Godzilla Controlled all 4 cities and Icompleted ALL Battles and than the code started doing funny stuff when I went back into the scoop! It kept looping and Not starting NEW battle. I cannot wait to see what the NEW CODE Brings. That Saucer Multiball is a cool mode!

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Had some good games on a premium, then went back to the pro, wondering if I would miss the mechs. Have to say, what I really noticed is that the pro has all the same adrenalin, it was just as exciting. You can't go wrong with either choice, it's simply an amazing combination of layout and lighting and media assets.

Saucer Attack Multiball can only be played once per game.

For those of you leveling your machine, note that despite appearances the building targets are not perfectly parallel to the flippers.

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The proof is in the infallible use of legometrics you see before your eyes.

I trust the precision of lego more than I trust just about anything else. The lego's I had as a kid are mixed with the one's I've bought my kids. I have yet to find a NAME BRAND LEGO that did not integrate and work perfectly with every other lego.

I use legos when I level my machine to get the level even on different parts of the playfield.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tip-how-to-level-your-machine-and-how-legos-can-help

And I made the family suffer through every single one of them...

I personally found this amusing when I first saw it.

It's a photo of a prototype playfield with the original Mechagodzilla that people might recognize from the Walking Dead game.

The photo is a picture of a picture on a screen. So it's fairly low resolution.

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What's that in the back left?

the left ramp loopback?

How do you get sauced multiball ?

For me it’s 3-5 glasses of rum… any more and my skills deteriorate too fast to trigger a MB in the game….

Actual answer: http://tiltforums.com/t/stern-godzilla-rulesheet/7210#heading--saucerattack

If you get sauced enough, every ball is a multiball! I've got four-flippers, two for each one of you!

Just added a shaker motor. Highly recommended.

It looks like there was originally a captive ball between the right ramp and the upper loop shot. That would have been badass, but it probably made that lane too tight.

I was playing my brother's Godzilla Premium the other day and the very first game, I got an airball that landed between Mecha's head and left arm...well, right arm if you're looking directly at him. Had to scoot the glass down a little to remove that one.
Are his arms adjustable at all? My brother is still too scared to pull the glass lol...so hopefully this doesn't happen to him when I'm not there.

I've had a couple airballs from MG that land on the ramp.

Your brother's is in for a tough ride if he can't handle super simple stuff like that. Owning pinball requires a very basic level of DIY.

Easy Christmas gift - teach him!

A lifelong friend of mine finally got his first pin and I've been showing him the basics for a while. It's been fun. You forget what it was like back when you started.

haha ok you guys got me there!

quick poll of the owners here...has anyone noticed much thermal drop off on the flippers? I feel like i may, but it could just my subconscious trying to make up for my crappy play on longer sessions

I did, and I installed PinMonks cooling kit and fade went away.

Godzilla has fade, for sure. With stock settings it takes longer to get to fade (unlike, say Stranger Things that gets there in about 15 minutes), but if you're playing long sessions, you WILL feel it.

And it dovetails with this, so might as well add that the magnet cooler is going in the store here and on pinmonk.com later today. It requires a Tibetan Breeze kit already be installed as it uses the left over connector from the 3 Flipper SLE1 kit or the 2 flipper kit to power it.

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Hot damn, already have the matching kit, can't wait to add this, thanks PinMonk.

Looks like a king ghidora figure in the back right which looks awesome. That kinda explains the emptiness in that area now. Probably pulled out of final production for cost reasons…

Do the coil coolers truly help?

the breeze kit is why i wanted to make sure i wasn't losing my mind feeling it before i pulled the trigger. what is "this" that you have photographed here? I was looking at the Tibetan Breeze v1.5 SPIKE 3 Flipper Coil Cooling Kit - SPECIAL LAUNCH EDITION, but if there's an add-on coming today that is needed, i should wait

just realized, it's for the magnet, derpderp

This is an optional add that also cools the magnet coil. On earlier releases the magnet was fading very heavily very quickly. Recent releases (including 0.85) it's been better since it's used less and held shorter (especially on the Pro), but on long sessions it can still fade like flippers and have trouble with holding fast and strong. This prevents that.

Yes, I have had mine on since week 2 of owning the game and they make game play so much better. I know other have posted of zero fade issues, however I can only speak to my game.

Most I've played at a time is just shy of an hour (lunch breaks) and havent noticed fade in those few times. What I might do first if I start seeing a lack of power is replace coil stops. Not sure if the ones on this one is any different from the other Stern games. My aiq stops were shot at around 200 games. And think most of those games were short.

ya, i remember that being an issue earlier. I'll wait until it's in the shop, then

Godzilla is a slow build for coil temps, more like LZ or Star Wars, so you probably won't notice fade in an hour. But once you get there, fade is easy to tell apart from coil stop issues. Coil stops problems are there from the beginning of play if they're bad. Faded coils were fine when you start, but get bad once they heat up after a longer session. Then when you let them cool off and come back later, they're fine again. Coil stop issues aren't like that.

Yeah, the AIQ when the coil stops were starting to give, shots were still makeable early on in the gameplay, but more noticeable later on with light fade, i guess. I replaced the stops first, and it improved shots at around the timeframe I was starting to see bigger issues, then around at the 1hour mark I noticed the bigger fade issue (usually when the shots were getting a PITA i stopped playing so never really made it critical heat). The fans helped us get to pretty much non-stop playing afterwards.

Later when the pin gets to a nice spot at home, we'll be getting more gametime, so we'll see how it does 1-2 hours of gametime.

Just had a laugh-out-loud moment. I was pressing the flipper buttons to hear the callouts during attract mode. I laughed when the deadpan radio announcer says, “Just like the songs says, We’re gonna super jackpot around the clock!”

Just out of interest how long does it take for the coils to cool through just not playing without the fans? I need to add fans to my games as I like to play one game for an evening rather than jump between games so I definitely notice some fade

Haha! I just got that one myself not more than an hour ago!

Does anyone have a suggestion for a Monster Zero? I'd like to put one in mine when I get it.

With fans if you stop flipping, they go back to ambient room temp in just a couple minutes because the fans keep them around 100-120F and when you stop flipping they go below 100F really quickly. Without active cooling if you give them a break of 10-15 minutes they cool off enough to ease the fade unless they were way out of bounds like a JJP Pirates game with 249F coils (that were measured at that temp!). Those would take a while to cool off. For a "normal" Stern Spike fade temp of 150-180F, give them 10-15 minutes and they should be back to 100F or so. But letting them cool for a bit without active cooling, you'll get to fade faster when you resume playing than from a cold machine.

I've been keeping my eyes out for a big one, for a DIY topper. Think it's very complimentary to the premium backglass

I ordered pinmonk fans for it. I do notice that my right flipper is just slightly off compared to my right. Like it feels just a tad loose compared to the left. Would that be the “leaf” switch inside there needing to be adjusted? Do i just bend one with a needle nose plyer?

You can check your EOS switch is working correctly by going into switch test mode and manually raising the flipper slowly. The EOS should trigger on screen right as the flipper reaches its peak motion. If it's triggering too soon it robs power from the flipper stroke. If it's triggering too soon, you can bend it away a little so it registers later, then re-test to see if you got it right.

BTW, your fans went out today.

You just need the SLE1 Tibetan Breeze kit and the Dual Fan magnet cooling kit (the magnet kit will be in my pinside store here and on pinmonk.com later today). That'll cool all three flippers and put two fans on the magnet coil (one fan on each side).

ty sir

3110 balls, factory settings and I definitely have visible wear.

I feel that way every time I lose a gem on AIQ. GZ just makes me happy every time.

Bridge attack I think.

I just tried this and they both seem identical in switch mode. So i dunno whats happening. Game is playing fine it just feels 1% off on that flipper.

Anybody ever try a simple 6 inch fan under the playfeild to eliminate flipper fade ?

Need to narrow the scope of the cooling for it to have any realistic effect. Otherwise, the air is just moving around like a convection oven.

I just got an LE and have been reading about the building collapse diverting balls onto different ramps. Mine just dribbles them STDM single file every time. I'm currently running .85 code. Anyone know why the building is doing this? Thanks.