Quoted from twenty84:

It kind of bothered me that the plastics around the Mechanogodzilla were printed to look like metal but weren't actually metal. I laser cut a few pieces stainless steel pieces and I like the look of this better. It is the type of thing I could make (maybe even a slightly better version now that I have done it once) if there was interest. Would probably need to sell it for about $30 a set.
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Quoted from HoakyPoaky:

I thought I would post this in case anyone was thinking about ordering Chrome Candy’s bridge plastic metal replacement. This is the best mod I have added to my GZ for two reasons…
1) It’s an aesthetically pleasing solution to the breaking plastic problem
2) While installing, I was able to properly fix the most frustrating problem on my game….LT ramp rattle rejection shots.
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1029-chrome-candy/05861-under-the-bridge-plastic-replacement
There are no instructions, so this is how I did it. First remove the c-clamp & washer from here
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Then remove the lock nut from underneath the bridge here.
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The RT half of the bridge will slide off the shafts. Be careful these washers & spacers don’t fall off this screw.
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First remove the plastic. There’s a small black screw & a lock nut holding it in place. When you try to remove the lock nut, the post screwed into the playfield t-nut will likely come out with it. No worries. You can separate them now.
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Use a magnet tool to remove the captive ball
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See this gap between the guide & the big magnet? It shouldn’t be there. 50% of my LR ramp shots would catch the edge of this guide, rattle around, and reject. Well no more! Time it fix this to ensure clean smooth shots to the LT ramp.
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Now some might grab some pliers & start bending metal, but not me. Remove the guide & do it right. So remove these two lock nuts & slide the guide out.
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Now that you gave the guide out, you’ll want to bend it slightly. Right here on the dotted line. Take it to your vice & bend as needed. Then reinstall in place. Don’t overtighten the lock nuts or you’ll strip them.
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Problem solved! And the good thing is that the ball will have more room to rock when held by the magnet, giving you more motion to hit the imposter shot behind the upper flipper. And when it stops rocking, it will sit farther to the left, leading to better feeds to the upper flipper for destruction jackpot shots.
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Before you install the metal protector, put the captive ball back in place. Even by bending the guide, there is still plenty of room in there for the ball to move around & hit the switch. And it doesn’t hurt to polish the protector with a little Mothers Mag. Get that thing nice and shiny! Then screw the post screw back into the playfield t-nut, and then secure the metal in place.
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Put the bridge back together & make sure it functions properly. Now the game plays better & there’s no worries or plastics breaking. And now you can see the captive ball too. Great mod! Highly recommended!
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Quoted from PalmettoPinworks:

Anyone else waiting on the Type 14 flaming speaker light kit from Speaker Light Kits?

Quoted from Bohdi:

Those look good. I went with a couple of these
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Quoted from Bohdi:

I love it. Yeah, the price is a bit high I guess, but IMHO, i really don't think it is for all the work that was put into it, and it's beautiful. I can't imagine not having it now that I have one. For as many as Davey has sold already, I'm guessing the price isn't deterring to many GZ owners. Mods these days aren't cheap, neither are pins, so i'd say get on the waitlist

Quoted from tedwasright:

Thanks. Does he have a link? I wouldn't know where to get it. I'm interested.