Both prototyping and printing as I have no 3D printing skills. A few people have reached out but I will check that thread as well.

Thanks

I just replaced the T-molding on my JP park yesterday. Not kidding, took ten minutes for both sides. Just search youtube for installing T-molding. May not be on a pinball but a video game, but it's the same process. Very easy.

Yeah pixelpete

Now I'm curious how you did the vinyl wrap. Could you post the link to the exact orange vinyl you purchased from amazon?

I'm guessing it involves wrapping, hiding seam on backside of part & using a heat gun to shrink to fit.

Me too!

My premium is being delivered Fri .
I have not been following the threads
For this machine.
Is there another thread or quicker way to find the top 10 mods or fix pieces for Godzilla unless someone is willing to help?
Thank you in advance

You’re in the right spot. Lots of choices, everyone will add their take.

My top ones:

UFO replacement (there’s a few)
Translucent Titan Rubbers + low bounce flipper rubber in your choice of color
TDiddys Tesla Towers
Flame speaker frames (Speakerlightkits or Myth Pinball)
Speaker upgrades (see the diy sound upgrade thread)
Some sort of Godzilla replacement

Tons of info if you scour this thread, have fun!

I recommend the shooter lane fix

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1016-lermods/07374-abe_flips-godzilla-pinball-shooter-lane-fix

Hey All,

Thanks for the kind words. So about the vinyl wrap. It's really easy to do. To do 1 pin, you can buy a roll of "glossy" vinyl if you like the gloss. 1 roll of 1' x 5' is enough to do 2 rails and 2 lock bars. Vinyl wrap is VERY forgiving. You can peel it up even weeks later if you don't like it. Just heat it up with a heat gun or hair dryer (heat gun is faster). The vinyl quickly gets soft and stretchy. it took a bit of trial and error around the lock bar corners. When you cut your pieces for the lock bar and rails, leave 1/2" - 1" bigger than the part. this way you have an edge to hold on to. Once you fold the vinyl to the hidden or underside of the part, just hold it for a bit for it to cool and the crease holds the visible vinyl in place. If you see bubbles, wrinkles, or creases, no worry, just heat it back up, stretch it a bit and fold again. Easy and nothing to panic about. On the lock bar, remove the action button and white plastic part. Once you have wrapped the lock bar, then cut slits (like pizza slices) for the action button hole and fold them under, then reinstall the action button. I noticed on the lock bar corners I did a bad job so i will fix them and show you a before and after if you like. I also did my AIQ in glossy purple. Just look up my posts. Here are the 2 vinyl colors I got on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08NCBZP6X/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07J25CZS6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title

Have fun.

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Thanks! I did my AIQ as well. Check out my other posts. Pretty easy, just a couple of cans of spray paint.

Thank you so much for this!!

No problem. As I mentioned earlier, vinyl is very forgiving. I went back 2 days later and fixed this. Just heated it up and stretched it a bit more.

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Looks so good. Have you tried the legs ?

yes has anyone done legs

Hey guys just wondering if anyone has done the legs at all?

It's all well and good to ask these questions, but I'm more interested to see if if works on other things, like legs.

Can anyone post some pictures of doing the legs?

I tried vinyl wrap on the legs of my Stranger Things. I couldnt get it right, so ended up removing it (sorry, no pics).
It was tough because air bubbles kept creeping in due to the contour of the leg sides. Im sure someone with more experience could do it right, but I quickly got frustrated and gave up.

I did find a pic...

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Is this something you have professional experience with, or did you learn to DIY? I’m curious how this process would differ from say, wrapping a table or desk

Any chance this stuff will stick to a wood arcade cabinet? Maybe if primed in some way?

Hey Everyone
I’m Jazzbouche – I've been working with Stumblor on the Lolly UFO kit, and am excited to announce a new Godzilla Figure Mod: ATOMIC GODZILLA!

It has reactive lighting and works with Stumblers awesome Lolly G.I.

Full details are here:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/godzilla-atomic-godzilla-figure-mod

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Hope you like it!

Cool. Quick question. If we are getting the ufo lolly bundle and we get your extended gidzilla bundle and by chance both lolly boards are using the same triggers....Are there connectors with splitters to make wire management easy?

Second. And this my be a Stumbler question, for instance if we use the magnet as a trigger. Will the leds be lit the entire time the magnet is engaged? I ask because I did something similar with a reed switch on the magnet that closes the circuit on LEDs. The lolly board blows away my solution.

There are splitters yes (Lolly boards all use JST PH connectors, otherwise known as Comet matrix However two boards can't be connected to the same switch as it causes false switch hits. There's probably a solution to this involving a sensor redesign, however it's not in scope at the moment sorry. For now both boards would have to be connected to two different triggers. As Jazz explained though, if you wanted to connect Atomic Godzilla to the Lolly UFO rig (using splitters) you can do that, without needing the extra board.

In regards to trigger actions - what the board detects a trigger, it performs an action. That might be to turn something on, or in the case of Atomic Godzilla, play an LED pattern for x seconds. The length of the action can be configured - 3, 5, 10 seconds or whatever. It's not dependant on the source in that regard - although it can be

Hey everybody.

Firstly, I want to thank all those whom bid on and those whom ultimately won the Godzilla bridges we donated to "Flippin The Script on Autism" which helped raise $25k for a great cause. Also congratulations to Josh, Scott and team on the massive success.

I hope you're holidays are off to a great start. I know mine are and I've been so busy with work, family and a Gilligan's Island restoration that after my last batch of bridges had gone out I should probably let everyone know that I am ready to start another run as we shoot past 100 bridges sold.

For those interested I will say that the "Dark Steel" color is by far the most requested color way followed by "Mecha Silver" and then "Blue Patina".

Lastly, I have a store 90% set up and hope to get it online shortly so that you can order directly on Pinside. Until then please continue to PM me for details. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/godzilla-premium-le-train-bridge-mod

Also be sure to check out the new Atomic Godzilla mod by Jazzbouche as it looks absolutely amazing. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/godzilla-atomic-godzilla-figure-mod#post-7234595

Thanks for all your support!

Who sells the plastic protector for the scoop plastic? I have the others but can't find that one from the usual places.
Thanks

I don't have professional experience with vinyl wrapping. Just something I tried.
I would say convex shapes are easier and concave shapes (like the inside of a bowl) would be harder because you can't stretch the material and only rely on the adhesive on the vinyl. This is why doing legs I anticipate is harder. Doing a table or desk should work.

Sorry, I missed up on the post, here you go:

I don't have professional experience with vinyl wrapping. Just something I tried.
I would say convex shapes are easier and concave shapes (like the inside of a bowl) would be harder because you can't stretch the material and only rely on the adhesive on the vinyl. This is why doing legs I anticipate is harder. Doing a table or desk should work.

So I finally got around to modifying the mini Oxygen destroyer that came with this Super7 figure.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stern-godzilla-mod-thread/page/59#post-7181545

It’s only about 1.25 inches long, which won’t obstruct the view of the outlane. But it’s tiny, so you’re going to need some tiny parts to do this. I don’t really feel like buying a bunch of these & modifying them for sale. So here’s what I came up with if someone wants to try their luck….

Here is the Oxygen Destroyer. Yep it sure is tiny, but it has some nice details.
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This is the most critical step. Use an exacto knife & pop the dialed end off. Don’t crack the window. Don’t break the shaft of the ball inside. Be patient.
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I use sticky wax that I melt to secure the LED & put it the whole thing back together. It’s easier to mange than superglue. Pretty sure I melted these beads into a solid brick using a heat gun. This block will last me forever. I love this stuff.
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You’re going to need a very tiny LED, which you can find from a hobby website. I found mine on Evan Designs. You can get them in all kinds of colors, sizes & voltages. I used the CHIP size, which is only a couple millimeters long. Make sure you buy the 5v-12V DC LEDs. Stern lighting is all 5V, so these won’t blow & are still bright enough. They come with the transistor attached already.
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I use a wax pen to melt the wax & put some in the cap end. Then place the LED & the wax cools around it, keeping it in place. Be careful, the wires are thin & the LED is tiny. Hope you brought your magnifying glasses! You can test the bulb at your workbench with a 6v battery pack if you want.
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Use more wax to place the cap back on the housing. Run the wire out the bottom edge.
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You’ll need a mounting bracket. I disassembled an old pop bumper switch I had lying around & used one of the blades cut down to size as needed. Run the wire through a tiny hole. Attach the Oxygen Destroyer using double sided tape.
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Time to install. Attach the blade to the post with the screw. My outlane post is set at the conservative position (no apologies) so you can run the wire through the other hole. The wires run to the OD insert. You’ll have to break out your soldering iron. Green wire to the ground, red wire to the other.
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That’s it! Mini OD tied to the insert! Not a mod for a beginner but not really that hard either. I just wanted to see if it could be done. If it takes a direct hit from a flying ball, it’s probably breaking. Enjoy!

Impressively done!!

Added some light-triggered lighting to the figures on my machine.

When the Mothra insert lights yellow, Mothra lights yellow.
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When the Rodan insert lights up purple, Rodan lights up purple.
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When The Anguirus insert lights up green, Anguirus lights up green.
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Too bad there's no way to trigger Hedorah... That'd be nice...

Really nice looking machine, the addition of the lights to bring attention to the added figures is really well done. Can you share an image of the party on the roof. Looks like fun.

Nicely done, and praises deserved for sharing this

Cheers, I can't take credit, this was another Pinsider's idea, can't recall whom off the top of my head...

Here are the surviving rooftop folks:
20221112_131029 (resized).jpg

So far, I've lost a cow, a dog and a dad holding his kid on his shoulders. What can I say? There's a casualty rate on Kaiju attacks, cheers!

good things are worth the wait

Flamin' Frames install with a custom acrylic building backdrop that i cut out myself.

Boss backbox 2 way speakers.

Hedorah replaced the stock godzilla figure.

Modfather planes.

Custom UFO pop bumper (self-made).

Powdercoated armor and habitrails.

Looks nice in person, at least to me. very fun game to customize:

https://www.veed.io/embed/07fa877b-ed36-4654-992c-c4bf9e659a16

Godzilla Rootbeer Powdered (resized).JPG

vid clip (resized).png

Love that translite!

thank you. well...thank you to the person that made it, and i grabbed it,
added a stern logo, some godzilla letters, then resized it for translite usage.

I love this idea. Where did you get the little people and characters?

Cheers, somebody had pointed me to a product line called Woodland Scenics, and they have a bunch of model train figures
For best results, I recommend "N" scale figures.

With the announcement of Atomic Godzilla I’ll probably be putting my Godzilla figure on hold. With that said I’ll be shifting focus over to other monsters - Mothra will be the first. But open to suggestions for which monster to do after mothra.

King Ghidorah gets my vote

AH HAH! The original rooftop party was by wtatumjr : https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stern-godzilla-official-owners-club/page/89#post-6649119

And I stand corrected: he recommends HO scale figures, not N scale. (You can see the difference. My cows are HO-scale, my townsfolk are N scale. That was NOT deliberate.)

Does anyone make a lighted oxygen destroyer thats about 2.5 inch in size for the R outlane?

Found these on Ebay. Like to see someone put these in the game. Thought they were pretty funny. Be a heluva rooftop party

Mine looks to be 1/2 inch too big for you

20221115_100114 (resized).jpg

I'm looking for a surfing figure. I've checked Ebay, train hobby stores, etc. No luck

Show me the way brother

Saw this on ebay.

ebay.com link: itm

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Thanks to Magicmike0 excellent post with details here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stern-godzilla-mod-thread/page/20#post-6803756

I got my NECA 1956 Godzilla installed and it looks awesome in comparison to the original. I'm sure there are side-by-side pics elsewhere in the thread but for anybody with a machine from a recent batch like me, here's the original Premium/LE figure next to the NECA 1956 Movie Poster figure:

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And a couple of the new figure mounted up in the game:

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Like Mike's experience, his head juuuuuust clears the glass. I have his head turned toward the building since that both gives a better view of the head/face and the building is what gets destroyed when Godzilla his most highlighted with the flasher. You can see the glass groove here, it clears a little better than it looks from this photo:

IMG_0859 (resized).jpg

I thought about using the 1964 figure as the color of Godzilla and his spikes are closer to correct to the movies but the bright colors of the 1956 figure seem to suit the similarly bright coloration of the cab art and playfield. I'll have to paint his spike white/blue sometime but he's in there for now and looking awesome.

Thanks for your post Magicmike0 !

Posted in the owners thread also… but it’s definitely a mod also! Just got this back from Steve at pinball refinery. It’s…. Very blue…but I love it.

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Order on: Highendmods1.com

You won't be disappointed!