Quoted from Apinjunkie:How I attached the horn mod. Full disclosure, I have limited pinball electronic knowledge so I used an accessory power supply board from pinball life. I would assume but haven't verified that you could skip the accessory power board and tie directly to cn11(ticket dispenser) with a .100" 5 pin connector. The benefits of the board are that it is double fused (protects your machine from your mods and your mods from your machine) and has connections for up to six mods. I will be adding more in the future so this was the right solution for me.
Let's get started, Mount the auxiliary power supply board directly under the cabinet node board as per the manufacturers instructions. Real simple four screws and two wire harnesses to swap. The horn comes pre-wired from the factory with a yellow,black and red wire leading from the housing and a mechanical switch. Using a three pin molex connector attach the black (ground) to the top (pointy end) of the connector. Attach the red and another wire of the same gauge (approximately 3 ft long) to the lower or flat end of the connector. Solder the end of that wire to one lug of the mechanical switch(doesn't matter which lug), solder the yellow lead from the horn to the other lug on the switch. Attach the molex connector to any of the four available spots on the accessory board.
To attach the switch we will be using the center coin slot. You'll need to temporarily remove the plastic lamp and clip that luminates the coin reject button. On the coinmeck assembly just under where you removed the lamp you will find two holes that run through the mechanism. We will be using the top hole closest to the coin door and a zip tie, the largest you have available that fits comfortably through the hole. There is a lock adjuster nut on the button that came with the horn, you want to tighten that up enough to leave a channel just wide enough for your zip tie. Run the zip tie through the hole and secure the button using the channel as your guide. You'll want to pull this extremely tight but check your alignment as you're doing so by depressing your coin return button. When set up correctly, your coin return mechanism should be pushing the red button all the way in when you're at your end of stroke with it. Reattach your lamp clip, it will have to ride up a little further on the assembly.Now you can mount the horn under the cabinet node making sure to leave room so you can adjust the angle of the horn without making contact with any electronics. Now clean up all your loose wires with zip ties being sure to leave enough slack to comfortably open your coin door paying close attention to not interfere with your coin door switch. There, easy peasy, power it up push the button and enjoy.
https://www.boomblasters.com/product/godzilla-roar-sounds-car-horn/
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
[quoted image]
Wanted to post an update here as to an improvement made to the installation of the horn mod. After having the mod installed for a few weeks and going through the grandkids test, I found that after about 100 pushes the switch can work itself loose or out of alignment. I found a simple solution using parts you may have laying around. I simply added a few small rubbers, sandwichad between the switch and the coin mech. Using the rubber rings gives you the hole through the center so you can still use a simple zip tie to secure. This centers the button for better contact with the coin eject lever as well as keeping it from sliding out of position.
Pic 1, rubbers used
Pic 3, original installation after grandkids testing with coin eject liver fully depressed
Pic 4, new installation with better alignment
Pic 2, new installation with coin eject lever fully depressed, note the red on the horn assembly button is completely engaged.
Easy peasy, much better, more reliable.
IMG_20220725_115603259 (resized).jpgIMG_20220725_120144759 (resized).jpgIMG_20220725_115659655 (resized).jpgIMG_20220725_120159615 (resized).jpg