(Topic ID: 37046)

Stern Flipper Blowing 3A slow blo (Tron)

By Nevus

11 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 14 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 11 years ago by Nevus
  • Topic is favorited by 4 Pinsiders

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#1 11 years ago

My TRON LE (2nd owner) has blown the 3A slow blow fuse on the right flipper coil. I replaced it this morning and it blew as well.

Symptoms. It seemed to hum when the flipper button was held down. I investigated the humming a little bit. Flipper switch and EOS are both functioning properly before and after the 3A blown fuse. I noted that both left and right flipper hummed a little when the buttons were held down but not a loudly.

History of machine.

1. The spinning disk motor was not functioning properly and the previous owner had what her called a "transistor pack" replaced. Its a component of 4 ceramic bricks with power going in and out and leads to the spinning disk motor.

2. I have added some mods; arcade, flynns sign, LED flipper buttons.

Any help is appreciated.

#2 11 years ago

Does the fuse blow on a single flipper hit or after you hold the flipper?

How did you test the EOS switch? Go into switch edge test and make sure it's working.

Check solenoid diode and resistance on coil if a single hit blows the fuse.

#3 11 years ago

The same thing happened to my TRON LE back in October 2012.
The problem was not the fuse.

The Q16 MOSFET on the I/O board had shorted.
Once I replaced the MOSFET with a new one, the flipper worked fine.

It has not been a problem since I replaced it. I also have the same mods minus the Flynn Sign.

If you need the MOSFET, just send me a private message with your mailing address, and I will send you one. I bought a couple in case I messed up the board swap with the first one. But luckily, I didn't mess up.

Marcus

#4 11 years ago
Quoted from terryb:

Does the fuse blow on a single flipper hit or after you hold the flipper?
How did you test the EOS switch? Go into switch edge test and make sure it's working.
Check solenoid diode and resistance on coil if a single hit blows the fuse.

I checked EOS with the switch test. The fuse blew before the coil fired. I had the playfield up. I powered on, selected the coil test, activated the high voltage botton by the coin door. I tested the right to be sure power was on, then tested the left but no coil fire. I didn't look to see if it blew before or after.

Quoted from Xerico:

The same thing happened to my TRON LE back in October 2012.
The problem was not the fuse.
The Q16 MOSFET on the I/O board had shorted.
Marcus

Can you a picture of where that is? Thanks!

#5 11 years ago
Quoted from Nevus:

Can you a picture of where that is? Thanks!

Biggest board in the head - you can't miss it.

LTG : )

#6 11 years ago

See Picture:

also the hum "problem" can be searched for on the Forum very likely not related just part of the construction of the newer sterns. Some can get the hum out some just deal with - some can't get the hum out. From posts in the past the Mosfet stern is using are having problems keeping up with flippers these days and often fail premature. In the past Mosfets have been an easy board repair for myself - first one I have done.

Also you can test the Mosfet prior to replacing it but I would say from having seen this in the past its a very likely possibility.

DSCN0146.JPGDSCN0146.JPG

#7 11 years ago

To test it, you need a DMM. Put the DMM into "diode" mode and test Q16.

Black lead on metal tab (middle leg). Probe the two outside legs with red lead. You should see between .4v or .6v. If you get a reading outside of that the transistor needs replaced.

http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Bally/Stern#Testing_and_Replacing_Transistors

#8 11 years ago

Afraid you can't accurately test a mosfet with that procedure. They don't work like normal transistors.

Use the following test for mosfet's:

http://www.4qdtec.com/mostest.html

Or better yet, take some voltage readings.

#9 11 years ago

It's more like a transistor than a mosfet.

Patrick of Stern Pinball told me the following:

"I’m suspecting the Q16 transistor on the I/O board has shorted. You can replace the transistor with an NTE2987 transistor.

Regards,
Patrick"

In any event, I believe the problem will be resolved with replacing Q16.

Marcus

#10 11 years ago

Thanks to all of you for the help. I'm going to test it this evening and be sure.

#11 11 years ago
Quoted from terryb:

Afraid you can't accurately test a mosfet with that procedure. They don't work like normal transistors.
Use the following test for mosfet's:
http://www.4qdtec.com/mostest.html
Or better yet, take some voltage readings.

That's true but you usually can test if they're outright shorted using the tab of the MOSFET to the ground plane. In this case I predict it's a direct short.

Nevus: a blown transistor can fry your coil and a shorted coil can fry your new transistor also. Make sure you get a dmm impedance read across the lugs of the coil. If those are also directly shorted, replacing your transistor it will just blow again. So test both at this point. Coil being bad is uncommon but not unheard of.

#12 11 years ago
Quoted from markmon:

That's true but you usually can test if they're outright shorted using the tab of the MOSFET to the ground plane. In this case I predict it's a direct short.

You are correct.

#13 11 years ago
Quoted from markmon:

Make sure you get a dmm impedance read across the lugs of the coil. If those are also directly shorted, replacing your transistor it will just blow again.

Will do. Thanks

1 week later
#14 11 years ago

It's fixed. I did it this evening. It wasn't as hard as I imagined nor as pretty as it should have been. The board survived and I realized I need a new and nicer soldering iron.

Thank you Pinsiders.

Special mention to Xerico who sent over two of the transistors at his own expense for me to use.

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