what do the header pins, & connectors look like ? I had to replace a bunch of mine.

got pics ?

From Clay's old pinrepair guide:

The Bally/Stern (and Alltek) MPU boards need only 12 volts and 5 volts to start booting (43 volts is needed later, but for now let's keep it simple). Before doing anything, check the power train.
Go to the rectifier board and check for voltage there. Check rectifier board TP3 for 12 volts. If missing, check the fuse F3.
If still no 12 volts DC at TP3, check E11/E12 test points on the rectifier board. These are the two AC inputs and should read about 12 volts AC with your DMM connectors to both E11 and E12. If no voltage check the wiring to the transformer or the transformer itself. If the 12 volts AC is present at E11 and E12, then the bridge rectifier BR2 is open. If fuse F3 blows immediately at power-on, then the
bridge rectifier BR2 is shorted.
If there is 12 volts DC at TP3 on the rectifier board but no 12 volts on the MPU board at TP2, likely it is just one wire causing the problem. Check J3 pin 8 (orange wire) of the rectifier board, as it may be burnt. It is a good idea to replace this connector pin as it handles the 12 volts distribution and is often burnt. Next the orange wire goes to the solenoid driver board connector J3 pin 12. It
makes a U-turn and heads back out J3 pin 11 and goes to the MPU board (this is why there is often a jumper between the solenoid driver board TP1 and TP3, to make sure this U-turn does not get cut). At the Solenoid Driver, the 12 volts DC heads also heads to the 5 volt regulator going through the big capacitor C23 (this smooths out the raw 12 volts DC, and usually needs to be replaced for reliability).

Good catch! As a rule, I replace all female and male connectors to the rectifier board on all classic Stern's i work on. Glad it was an easy fix!

I also have a Flight 2000. Worked as designed one day then the next it will not boot up. Turn on and MPU LED flashes 2x then stays off and goes no further (should flash 7x I think). I have checked the Test Points on rectifier board, all seem to be correct or slightly higher. It was repaired a few times before I got it and the issues of wires and connectors burning had been "repaired". Looks kind of Cobbled to me as I am somewhat Obsessive Compulsive... But it all worked, now it doesn't. I have also checked Test Points on the MPU200 and LDA and SB100. they all seen to be correct. The LDA has also had work done on it. Not finding anything that jumps out at me ie Black smoke trails or all out fire signals.
I'm a newbie here and very mechanically inclined, however electronics is not my strongest trait. I can and have replace components before, ran electrical circuits in my house and garage...

Any thoughts of direction would be GREATLY appreciated both by me and my grand kids!
Thanks.

Hi

That seems to indicate a problem with the 5101 RAM chip (battery backed up RAM). U8 maybe? Is it seated correctly? Is there corrosion of old batteries?

Do a google search on either 'bally mpu flashes' or 'stern mpu 200' (pretty much the same board) to get started.

http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/ballyss/rep/index2.htm#flash

U8 & U13 can be replaced and battery removed

this is the one I got: ebay.com link: 1pc Stern Pinball MPU 200 NVRAM Adapter

is battery corroded ? ( I hope not )

WOW!!! You guys are freakin AWESOME! The battery was removed/ moved prior to my purchase. and the EBay link will allow me to fix that. The techniek link is incredible! I will be getting on that tomorrow as time permits.
I will let you know what I find. Thanks again for such quick responses and the info provided!

Well now... Thank you again for the direction. However...
I did purchase that NVRam on Ebay. Its coming. Then I pulled U8 and this iscwhat I found... Not a very happy camper...
That bottom socket does not look happy!

20170424_140629 (resized).jpg

20170424_140619 (resized).jpg

Looks like a new board will be in my future.
Unless someone can steer me to a replacement socket!

I made an attempt to repair/ work around the issue...the chip must have crapped out b4 I got this far into it!

20170424_150045 (resized).jpg

20170424_150035 (resized).jpg

Nice work-around! Here's the replacement socket if you'd like to order one:

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/DIP22

Edit: Looks like the board has taken some alkaline damage from a leaking battery. Hopefully getting a good RAM installed will fix it. In the meantime, I'd look into neutralizing the battery leakage. There's a good thread here where someone details the use of an acidic toilet bowl cleaner that will neutralize the battery leakage here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stripping-battery-corrosion-with-a-strong-acid

Good luck!

Chas10e...
Does that nvram part require the old sockets to be removed and re solder in this part?

the NVRAM is designed as an exact fit, mine plugged right in

yeah it looks like you should replace the U8 socket ... in the pic I noticed a couple of legs out on the U13 chip ( which will be replaced anyways ) .... they cheap enough to have both in case other one is bad also. The remote battery (or capacitor) can be removed as well

the pic shows the lower left screw missing, holding board in place , that also serves as a needed ground, upper right screw hole not shown in photo

you'll have to setup all the "bookkeeping" as outlined in the manual after chip installed http://mirror2.ipdb.org/files/887/Stern_1980_Flight_2000_Manual.pdf

After further checking AND after doing that ZEP acid cleanup... and putting all of the IC chip legs IN their correct sockets then re soldering the bypass jumper... Waa Laa everything is up and runningh!!!!! Happy Happy Joy Joy!
I can't begin to tell you guys how greatful I am for ALL of your direction, tips and help! Didn't even bother to put it all back together before playing a half dozen games... I bought THIS specific game 5 years ago as it was a reminder of my time serving in South Korea. Spent many a long hours playing this exact game there while bidding my time.
Thanks again!!!

Yes, I did install both of the ground screws when I found it all worked as designed...

Congrats, man!! Good job!!