Hello everyone, new here and just picked up my first machine.

And thats where the fun starts, I thought i would have more time before i had to start trouble shooting.

When i picked up the machine it was fully functioning. Seperated everything, this included taking out ~9 harnesses and the ground wire. I took pictures of all the connections in order to make sure i got them in the right places, but when i fired back up not everything was working. the scores/credits did not populate and it seems like the solenoids arent firing.(ran it through the selftest and nothing happens at this stage. while its booting up i can get the flippers to fire once, then nothing. i cant get a game started even without the scores working. All of the feature lights are functioning just fine.

I have downloaded the schematics, and am trying to fumble through those (thought i would have an easier time, i have to read commercial HVAC wiring diagrams for work) but im struggling.

Any advice on what to check? im at a loss here.

Thanks for the help. and at some point i hope to be knowledgeable enough to help, but this is day 2 haha

Chad

zacaj, thank you for the help.

if i was reading it correctly, i only have around 6v at TP1 (had my meter on the top of TP1 and then grounded, see attached)(using same method i was around 230v on TP2

so i was apparently doing the self test incorrect, when i held the button it ran through all the solenoids, including flippers.

fuse didnt look burnt, didnt physically check though, and since i got all to fire i didnt dig in.

Obviously if my reading is correct, that explains the displays being out. but i have no idea for the root cause.

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No worries, i just measured the first TP-1 i could find haha. I think i measured it correct this time, just the little loop on the displays, checked all 5, all had around 5V.

Thanks again for taking the time to walk me through this.

across the board i got
TP1 - 5V
TP2 - ~0V
TP3 - GND

zacaj,

Bear with me because i feel like I'm fumbling through this.

Found TP2 and TP4 on the solenoid driver board... TP2 read around 185V... TP4 read ~230
but i didn't see any removable fuses so i feel like I'm missing something. I will take another look tomorrow.

frunch,

I will round up my pictures and post just to see if someone else notices anything.
I feel fairly confident in the back box. I compared my current setup to pictures i took before we tore down. and I also had pictures from the guy i bought it , from when he had moved it last. everything seems to match up.

Ill take a look under the play field for connectors. I took a brief look but may have missed something.

I figure(hope) it has to be simple. the table literally went about 3 miles from his house to mine.

Thanks for the help guys.

Wiring Pictures while the machine was working

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current wiring

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Alright.
Last one for now

Picture of the entire Sol. Driver Board

Driver Sol Board (resized).jpg

Thanks guys!
We now have displays! the fuse on the display board was loose... its also way to small for the holder. I will be picking up a new one tomorrow. without pulling up the wiring schematic. i assume from the giant red tag its a 1/4 amp 175v fuse.

Still have a 2 issues though. that weren't an issue when i tested.

1) display boards are flickering jumping around on numbers, in the self test not all the number showed either. for now I'm attributing this to the fuse. but figured i would toss it out there.

2) i don't have any sound. i know the board on the left side of the back box is sound. I don't see anything odd in the connections. and no fuse to be seen. any thoughts.

Thanks again, you guys are amazing.

1) Yeh im not worried yet. I will be picking up a fuse tomorrow.

2) the sound did work. i removed the harness with the 2 green and 2 white wires shown at the bottom of my series of pictures.

Thanks again. and it was fun to play, even with no sound or functioning scores haha

short update.

Got a fuse that fit the holder... but it is oversized. i got a 1 Amp figuring it would at least complete the circuit to see if it worked.

Numbers still glitchy. all "2s" show up as "0" and the 9s glitch from 9 to 8 repeatedly... upon start up all scores start at 00 flash to all 8s then to high scores and all 8s.

Ill be digging into sound here shortly.

Thanks, i feel like this thing is close. just have to chase these couple things down.

Oddly enough i did this to take a better picture of the sound board, and it did seem to help.
the flicker in the "9" disappeared. Upon boot up. it goes 00 all 8s then high score. but player 4 goes blank during all 8s. and "2" is still populating as "0" . After game play the number settle down now. just flashing from current score to high score. i will do some more wiggling and see what comes of it.

Im lost on the sound though. all connections to the speaker seem solid. I turned the potentiometer on the speaker back and forth, i didn't hear anything.
Was running through the trouble shooting and taking the voltages. Everything checked out good except for the life of me i could not find TP8. (pretty sure thats tp9 above tp7, voltage matched too) attaching a photo to see what I'm missing.

If any or all of the voltages at TP1, TP7, TP8, TP9 are not present you will likely not have any sound.

TP1 - 5v (for ICs u1 thru u5)
TP2 - around 2.6v (if multivibrator is working)
TP3 - around 2.6v (if multivibrator is working)
TP4 - GND
TP5 - around 2.6v (if multivibrator is working)
TP6 - 5v (for all other 5v logic chips, ICs)
TP7 - 11.5v (for ICs u20, u21)
TP8 - 6.2v (for ICs u10 thru u13)
TP9 - 10v (for ICs u14)

after that, i was able to get a pulse at U7 when a bumper was triggered. and wiggling the connect didn't seem to have any effect.

Not sure where to go from there. I'm limited to a multimeter at the moment

Cant say it enough, Thank everyone for the help. its the only reason I'm this far into getting it back to operational.

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G-P-E, are you suggesting i rebuild the connectors? i have tried reseating them, i have checked placement multiple times, wiggled them around,moved the cables around for more or less tension. which is why i went through the process of checking voltages at the board. The sound worked, I tore the table down, moved it about 3 miles and reassembled and now cant get sound. I am up for trying whatever, this is my first pin and everything is a learning process for me, i thought i would have more time to research and get familiar, which is why have been asking so many questions.

thanks

thanks,
This keeps getting more and more over my head, but guess i have to learn at some point.

Side note, i now have a hum from my speaker. and can get an oddball sound of noises but note the whole deal.

Thanks again everyone.
Chad

Although i agree the connecters need rebuilt, just want to run this by anyone reading. By adjusting the upper left connector. Displays are now operating correctly, still need new connectors to keep any issues from arising if something gets bumped.

As for sound. messing with the lower left connector on the MPU get a variety of tones out of the speaker but nothing real. but once the game is turned off and back on that goes away. not sure if that will jog any memories of something someone has experienced in the past..

This was all working 4 days ago. and its almost back, even though it could use some love.