(Topic ID: 246219)

Stern dracula


By Aahzz

17 days ago



Topic Stats

  • 20 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by Quench
  • No one calls this topic a favorite

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#1 17 days ago

I picked up a dracula that was in pretty rough shape. I cleaned everything, did all new connectors and fuses. Finally put power to it and it blows the F2 fuse on the rectifier board. Bad board? Short? Where should i go from here?

Any help would be great. Thanks

#2 17 days ago

I disconnected J1 and J3, replaced fuse. Upon powering i get a hum then a second later it blows F2. I see no solenoids locked on. Bad rectifier board? Just to note the varistor on the input power line was blown. i replaced that as i was doing the general maintenance.

Thanks

#3 17 days ago

Get the boards individually solid in the following order:

Rectifier
Solenoid Driver
MPU
Lamp/Sound

Pinwiki has a nice walkthrough of the order to go in but basically you work each board in order. You probably have a blown diode in the high voltage section on the rectifier board, either replace the entire board or at least rebuild it (I think it's best to replace at this point I use the weebly board bought as a kit to do this)

#4 16 days ago

Thanks, i just placed an order for a new board. Guess ill start there

#5 16 days ago

I would check the CR1 thru CR4 1N4004 diodes to see if one of the has shorted causing the fuse to blow. If the are ok the high voltage section on the solenoid driver board will need to be checked.

#6 12 days ago

Ok.. replaced rectifier board. Now i get proper voltages without J1 or J3 plugged in but as soon as i connect them my voltages on T2 drops to zero. Solenoid board?

#7 12 days ago

Do you have the displays unplugged.... if so, yes, the high voltage section on the solenoid driver board likely needs to be rebuilt.

Rebuild the entire section, not parts of it.

#8 12 days ago

Yep, displays unplugged. It starts to register voltage then drops to zero.

#9 8 days ago

Ok, new rectifier board. Just installed new driver board. All points have proper voltages with the exception of the 12v on driver is testing at 15.9. Documentation says 12 to 15. Is 15.9 to much? Im now getting a red light on mpu but game wont boot. Nothing on displays. Board looks to have had battery damage and was cut off before i got the game. Does it seem like bad mpu? I can order the rottendog board but now im starting to get priced in pretty deep for this dracula.

#10 7 days ago
Quoted from Aahzz:

the 12v on driver is testing at 15.9. Documentation says 12 to 15. Is 15.9 to much?

15.9 volts is in range - I've seen it as high as 17 volts.
If the red LED on the MPU board stays on from the moment you power the machine (no flicker or flashes) then likely the battery corrosion is causing issues on that MPU board. They are repairable but take a lot of work and will require good soldering skills/equipment.

Rottendog don't make replacement MPU boards for these games - you can get new replacement MPU boards from pinsider barakandl at his web site:

https://nvram.weebly.com/new-pcbs.html

Repairing your solenoid driver board would have been much easier than repairing the MPU board and cheaper on your pocket. I'm afraid to say that pictures of the boards up front would have helped your cause.

#11 7 days ago

Thanks for the response Quench. I guess at this point im committed to see it thru. Thanks for the link for the board. Im going to order it and see where that gets me. After this there is only 2 boards left, hopefully they will be ok.

#12 7 days ago

Another thing to consider is that since the MPU board has battery corrosion, there's a good chance the corrosion has reached the connectors that plug onto the MPU board. You might have to re-terminate those connectors - J4 and J3 connectors at the MPU board usually get hit first/worst but others can be affected depending on the reach of the corrosion.
If you can post some clear pictures of the MPU board to show the corrosion we might be able to better advise.
Ultimately though if you remove the wire terminals from the connector housings and they're tarnished/green you'll see for yourself that they need replacing. If they're still fairly shiny silver they may be ok for now.
The wire terminals in the connectors have a latching clip that you can push with a small screw driver to allow you to pull the wire terminal out of the connector housing for inspection/replacement.

#13 5 days ago

Boy, im taking it tough on this machine. Just installed a new mpu board. I power on, i have life! So i close it up. And play a couple games. Everything is registering, game is playing good. I notice a few insert lights out so i power down, lift the playfield and change the bulbs. I lower the playfield to play again, i power on and now i have zero sound. I had it fine the first 2 games no nothing. I checked the connectors and everything seems ok.. any suggestions?

#14 5 days ago

So i reflowed the pins on the SB. Powered up. Sound was back. I played 6-7 games. I shut it off to wax the playfield. When i turned it back on. No sound!

#15 5 days ago

barakandl sells a wiring harness for $13 shipped. If yours is original I would recommend replacing it as it is most likely your issue.

#16 2 days ago

Ok, new harness came in and i hooked it up. I have sound. I played a few games. Ran out of credits. Dropped a few quarters, played a few more games. Ate lunch, went to play and now it wont register the quarters or start a game. What could i have possible done?

#17 2 days ago

Take a close look at the wires on the coin drop switches. Mine are constantly breaking loose.

#18 2 days ago

Disconnect J3 from the MPU board and plug it back in. If the coin switches and start button now work, you likely have corrosion in the J3 connector terminals and need to re-terminate it.

#19 2 days ago

Well fixed the coin door, ground was off on switch. Played 2 more games then sound goes out again.. so the harness was not the problem

#20 1 day ago

Sometimes the solder joints on the 32 pin header at the top of the sound board fracture/crack. Take the board out and carefully inspect the pin header soldering on the back of the board. Resolder any joints that look cracked.

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