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(Topic ID: 246219)

Stern dracula

By SpinnerAddict

1 year ago

Topic Stats

  • 42 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by Quench
  • Topic is favorited by 3 Pinsiders


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#1 1 year ago

I picked up a dracula that was in pretty rough shape. I cleaned everything, did all new connectors and fuses. Finally put power to it and it blows the F2 fuse on the rectifier board. Bad board? Short? Where should i go from here?

Any help would be great. Thanks

#2 1 year ago

I disconnected J1 and J3, replaced fuse. Upon powering i get a hum then a second later it blows F2. I see no solenoids locked on. Bad rectifier board? Just to note the varistor on the input power line was blown. i replaced that as i was doing the general maintenance.


#3 1 year ago

Get the boards individually solid in the following order:

Solenoid Driver

Pinwiki has a nice walkthrough of the order to go in but basically you work each board in order. You probably have a blown diode in the high voltage section on the rectifier board, either replace the entire board or at least rebuild it (I think it's best to replace at this point I use the weebly board bought as a kit to do this)

#4 1 year ago

Thanks, i just placed an order for a new board. Guess ill start there

#5 1 year ago

I would check the CR1 thru CR4 1N4004 diodes to see if one of the has shorted causing the fuse to blow. If the are ok the high voltage section on the solenoid driver board will need to be checked.

#6 1 year ago

Ok.. replaced rectifier board. Now i get proper voltages without J1 or J3 plugged in but as soon as i connect them my voltages on T2 drops to zero. Solenoid board?

#7 1 year ago

Do you have the displays unplugged.... if so, yes, the high voltage section on the solenoid driver board likely needs to be rebuilt.

Rebuild the entire section, not parts of it.

#8 1 year ago

Yep, displays unplugged. It starts to register voltage then drops to zero.

#9 1 year ago

Ok, new rectifier board. Just installed new driver board. All points have proper voltages with the exception of the 12v on driver is testing at 15.9. Documentation says 12 to 15. Is 15.9 to much? Im now getting a red light on mpu but game wont boot. Nothing on displays. Board looks to have had battery damage and was cut off before i got the game. Does it seem like bad mpu? I can order the rottendog board but now im starting to get priced in pretty deep for this dracula.

#10 1 year ago
Quoted from SpinnerAddict:

the 12v on driver is testing at 15.9. Documentation says 12 to 15. Is 15.9 to much?

15.9 volts is in range - I've seen it as high as 17 volts.
If the red LED on the MPU board stays on from the moment you power the machine (no flicker or flashes) then likely the battery corrosion is causing issues on that MPU board. They are repairable but take a lot of work and will require good soldering skills/equipment.

Rottendog don't make replacement MPU boards for these games - you can get new replacement MPU boards from pinsider barakandl at his web site:

Repairing your solenoid driver board would have been much easier than repairing the MPU board and cheaper on your pocket. I'm afraid to say that pictures of the boards up front would have helped your cause.

#11 1 year ago

Thanks for the response Quench. I guess at this point im committed to see it thru. Thanks for the link for the board. Im going to order it and see where that gets me. After this there is only 2 boards left, hopefully they will be ok.

#12 1 year ago

Another thing to consider is that since the MPU board has battery corrosion, there's a good chance the corrosion has reached the connectors that plug onto the MPU board. You might have to re-terminate those connectors - J4 and J3 connectors at the MPU board usually get hit first/worst but others can be affected depending on the reach of the corrosion.
If you can post some clear pictures of the MPU board to show the corrosion we might be able to better advise.
Ultimately though if you remove the wire terminals from the connector housings and they're tarnished/green you'll see for yourself that they need replacing. If they're still fairly shiny silver they may be ok for now.
The wire terminals in the connectors have a latching clip that you can push with a small screw driver to allow you to pull the wire terminal out of the connector housing for inspection/replacement.

#13 1 year ago

Boy, im taking it tough on this machine. Just installed a new mpu board. I power on, i have life! So i close it up. And play a couple games. Everything is registering, game is playing good. I notice a few insert lights out so i power down, lift the playfield and change the bulbs. I lower the playfield to play again, i power on and now i have zero sound. I had it fine the first 2 games no nothing. I checked the connectors and everything seems ok.. any suggestions?

#14 1 year ago

So i reflowed the pins on the SB. Powered up. Sound was back. I played 6-7 games. I shut it off to wax the playfield. When i turned it back on. No sound!

#15 1 year ago

barakandl sells a wiring harness for $13 shipped. If yours is original I would recommend replacing it as it is most likely your issue.

#16 1 year ago

Ok, new harness came in and i hooked it up. I have sound. I played a few games. Ran out of credits. Dropped a few quarters, played a few more games. Ate lunch, went to play and now it wont register the quarters or start a game. What could i have possible done?

#17 1 year ago

Take a close look at the wires on the coin drop switches. Mine are constantly breaking loose.

#18 1 year ago

Disconnect J3 from the MPU board and plug it back in. If the coin switches and start button now work, you likely have corrosion in the J3 connector terminals and need to re-terminate it.

#19 1 year ago

Well fixed the coin door, ground was off on switch. Played 2 more games then sound goes out again.. so the harness was not the problem

#20 1 year ago

Sometimes the solder joints on the 32 pin header at the top of the sound board fracture/crack. Take the board out and carefully inspect the pin header soldering on the back of the board. Resolder any joints that look cracked.

#21 1 year ago

Ok, im not sure what happened but i hope someone here can help. I spent the last 3 days trying to figure it out. So before i was able to play a game with no sound and everything else worked. Now i can coin up, start a game but only the flipper coils work. The reset bank coils, slings and pop bumpers no longer work. Or the ball kick out. Ive checked all fuses with a meter. I can not figure this out. Played fine for days (minus sound)

#22 1 year ago

Voltages still check out on all 3 boards..

#23 1 year ago

You check the fuse under the playfield? It controls all non-flipper coils.

#24 1 year ago

I only say 1 fues between the flippers, is that the one? I assumed it was for the flippers.

#25 1 year ago

Im an idiot. chalkey thanks so much. It was that fuse. Now i can get back to my sound issue. Ive reflowed all the solder on the 32 pin connector. Now the sound starts when i boot but the the mpu just keeps resetting.

#26 1 year ago

Did you plug the sound board harness back in correctly? Meteor won't boot if the connectors are in the wrong places.

#27 1 year ago

Yeah, i thought that was the problem at first but everything is plugged in correctly. Im not the best solder guy but nothing looks off on the 32 pins.

#28 1 year ago

Just for a sanity check try to boot it with the sound card disconnected. What's it doing when it resets?

#29 1 year ago

If I unplug the sound card game boots normally and I can play a game. Everything scores fine and works. When I plug it back in and power on it makes the sounds on boot but then locks up the mpu and just resets over and over

#30 1 year ago

Sanity check #2: Are you positive that pin1 on your MPU is going to pin1 on your sound board?

#31 1 year ago

I hooked it up the same way I took it off but I’ll check tonight. It was right side of mpu as pin 1 to right side of sound board as pin 1. New cables and made sure the grey pin was far right on both

#32 1 year ago

Ok, getting further. I pulled the board rechecked all the pins, reflowed a few. I put it back in the game. When i powered on the sound worked. Went thru start melody. I pressed start and it played a melody kicked the ball out then sound stopped and it blew the fuse under the playfield.

#33 1 year ago

Actually scratch that. Fuse did not blow it just hung up the mpu.

#34 1 year ago

Just checking... on th epower going to the sound board i have 4 wires. 2 red and 2 black. The red are twisted together and go to only 1 pin and the black are the same way. Is this correct?

image (resized).jpg
#35 1 year ago not sure where to go from here. If the machine sits off for awhile and i power on i get sound up until the first melody. Then the board resets and i lose displays and sound. If i unplug the 32 pin on the sound board and boot it goes thru fine and i can play as many games as i want with no sound. I can not find a replacement board anywhere. If anyone has info for one please let me know. I believe im at my technical end with this one.

Thanks for everyone trying to help me

#36 1 year ago

Do the test points on your sound board check out? Have you replaced the caps if original? Your rectifier and SDU are brand new, right? Did you repin your female connectors, esp on your rectifier board?

#37 1 year ago

New rectifier, driver and mpu boards. Repinned rectifier and new harness from mpu to sound board.

#38 1 year ago

Its weird, before i reflowed the 32 pin and installed the new harness i had sound sporadically. Sometime 5-6 games then it would go out. If I unplugged and wiggled the harness i would get it back. Now with the new harness and solder reflowed i get a beep at boot then melody then resets and sound and display goes away. Makes me think maybe i messed something up when i reflowed but it all looks ok.

#39 1 year ago

Sounds like you've got something to look at. I'd remove the old pins entirely and replace with new, making sure theres no missing traces or bridged pads.

#40 1 year ago

If you can't find a replacement try and find someone who does board repair. Coin op cauldren or some pinsiders do board work. If you have an electronics wholesaler or small appliance/radio/stereo repair company locally that may be a good way to go also. Redoing that 36 pin connector without the proper equipment and know how will be a rough go if trying to do it on your own. Like chalkey pointed out replacing the caps would be a good starting point since its seems once the boards get hot is when the trouble starts. Redoing the capacitors by yourself is very easy and may be a good starting point.

4 weeks later
#41 1 year ago

Ok. Im really at a loss. I sent the sound board out for repair. Got it back and put it back into my machine. Booted up. It makes the melody at boot. Flip the coin mech. It makes the sound. Start a game and the sound still going. Flip like 5 times and sound goes out. Anyone have any more ideas? I just cant understand what else could be wrong.


#42 1 year ago

Post some very clear high resolution pictures of the 32 pin header on the sound board and also on its solder side.

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