I think your woofer is a poor choice. It's not very efficient. The internal amps are only 18 watts so you need something efficient. Look for something 93-96db. The woofer will need a 5 -6 mH inductor to cross over. The woofer you choose also sucks because it will be sitting on wood and the rubber around the cone protrude out. Mcm electronics sells some decent efficient speakers. They had a 10" series there that was 96db at 4 ohm. I bought 20. Parts express sells the inductors. Get the cheapest 5mH you can find.

For backbox, I suggest 4" clarion coax 4 ohm wired in series. You'll want to dim the backbox anyway so an 8 ohm load in the backbox is ok. Amazon sells the clarions. They're efficient and sound decent. Although for spiderman, the stock backbox are fine in my opinion. I'd just do the sub.

You can go 10" and leave the cabinet hole as is. Mcm electroncs sold a 4 ohm 10" 96db efficient speaker. I think it was the 1525 series. The rubber cone of it wouldn't hit the wood so you wouldn't need any CNC spacers. As for any speaker sounding better, if you don't have the power to drive it, a high quality speaker will not sound good. Many hq speakers are extremely in efficient but can take massive amounts of power. These would not be a good choice for you here.

Efficiency is super important. (and remember the manufacturer's posted specs are often WAY exaggerated.)

Install an inefficient speaker and you won't have enough watts to hear it over backbox speakers.

You would have to double the amp watts to deliver only an additional 3db.

Or 4x the amp watts to gain 6db.

So you can see that it's much easier to put in more efficient speakers than it is to add bigger amplifiers.

Grab that 10" you posted. That should do well. You'll take out the stern 8" and tap out the 4 studs then use some 3/4" screws and center it over the hole. Wire a 6mH inductor in line with the +. You could probably get away with no lpad and use some resistors. Perhaps even rewiring your backbox to be in series would be enough to dampen it. But if not a 10 or 20ohm resistor inline might do it. Parts express sells resistors and inductors.

Good advice in this thread.

I find that efficient, 4" 4-ohm coax speakers on Amazon for $20 work just fine in the backbox, but you will need to employ that CNC to cut yourself some spacers. Either that or I kind of recall hearing that Terry was going to start running them in plastic and sell them, just don't quote me on that.

I get 2 Ohm audio grade resistors from Parts express and use that to up the resistance back to 4 Ohms when I wire them in parallel. If memory serves, the OEM ones are 8 Ohm and in parallel they go to 4 Ohms so it's a wash. I haven't bought a kit from FF in a while but his early Stern kits were set up like I do mine, except the provided LPad varied the resistance instead, and so I would always put a meter on it and mark where 4 Ohm and higher was on the dial so I wouldn't strain the puny little amp.

I do know this - markmon has given some good advice is this area over the years so follow his instructions and you'll profit.

Good luck.

Don't forget the inductor. It wont sound good without it. http://www.parts-express.com/erse-60mh-18-awg-i-core-inductor-crossover-coil--266-572

Good idea to make a mounting plate. I wouldn't recommend putting any additional holes in the bottom of the cabinet.

That's sexy! Great job man, but the real question is how does she sound?!

The 6mh will cross things over a bit lower than the 5. Either will work.

those MCM paper cone cloth surround units are GREAT bang for the buck. 4 8's in my livingroom, couple of their 12's low pass filtered in cabs being driven by a warmed up Lepai 2020A+ amp (now 13 honest watts instead of 8.3).
your soundboard wont have the power to really push that 10, which really wont matter, you'll feel it plenty.

Is a spacer really needed for this specific woofer?

No

Still not got the crossover? I'd love to see this finished.

I dont doubt that MCM 10 one bit, give it maybe a week or so to break in and loosen up too btw, the surround and spider might be a little stiff at first. hook it up to a stereo and feed it 25-30w a few hours oughtta loosen it up nice enough too. she's gonna BOOM even though not being fed anywhere near power capacity.

How I did my AC/DC~

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-speakers-on-my-ac-dcahhhhhhh

nice. a few had questions about it being 4 ohm speakers, not much an issue when you can pick up a couple 2-4 ohm 20w resistors to put in series to them, or larger value if the backbox speakers are too in your face loud. adjustable with L-pad can be nicer but good balance with just resistance is doable.

Hey all, looking to do some DIY sound/speaker upgrade to my Deadpool Pro.
I have this stuff “laying around” due to buying a few of these when I was upgrading a Fish Tales a couple years ago. One question is, is it smart to buy a small amp to power the sub and wire it in the cab?
Something like this? It just isn’t efficient for my to buy expensive pin woofer and the like kits

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0071HZ5EQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabc_EoOYFbFK511XW

Will this be a decent upgrade for bass to start with here?
I have a sub, crossover, pot that I can wire all in to my DP.

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Old thread but good. Will this 10 inch sub work on modern Spike 2 systems? Looking for simple cabinet speaker upgrade for GZ pro. I'm not ready to drop 350 on pinwoofer yet.

I'm sure it will, but go here for all your needs....

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/improving-sound-quality-the-diy-route