(Topic ID: 340775)

Stern 2023 build machines - excessive clicking power supply fix

By PinMonk

11 months ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 366 posts
  • 63 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 87 days ago by mbt
  • Topic is favorited by 85 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

View topic image gallery

20240424_084329.jpg
20240424_083135.jpg
Screenshot_20240426-174332-717 (resized).png
IMG_3696 (resized).jpeg
IMG_3697 (resized).jpeg
IMG_3693 (resized).jpeg
IMG_3695 (resized).jpeg
IMG_3694 (resized).jpeg
IMG_7434 (resized).jpeg
IMG_7433 (resized).jpeg
IMG_7432 (resized).jpeg
Spike2-PDB (resized).jpg
PXL_20231201_115529225 (resized).jpg
CDE_Stubby_Caps (resized).jpg
pasted_image (resized).png
pasted_image (resized).png
There are 366 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 8.
71
#1 11 months ago

So, Stern has recently shipped a fair number of machines across many titles (recent Maiden, Godzilla, Foo, Venom, and Bond 60th are confirmed to have machines with this issue in the wild) that excessively click before they start booting. Here's one (extreme at around 40 clicks) example of what that is like at boot on the affected machines:

The clicking is coming from the power supply, but after extensive investigation (documented in the Foo Fighters owner's thread where this started), the real culprit turned out to be the capacitors on the Power Distribution Board (or PDB). I've numbered the problematic caps on the PDB here:

PDB numbering (resized).jpgPDB numbering (resized).jpg

The caps are made by Cornell Dubilier Electronics (CDE) and are rated at 10,000uf with 20% tolerance. The reason they're suddenly starting to click when they never did before is somewhere in late 2021, CDE changed the makeup of the caps inside. Early (maybe mid) 2021 and before versions of the same caps are 1.4oz. Late 2021, and all 2022 and forward are 1.7oz. The heavier caps have crappier performance, with at least 50% of the ones I tested hanging out at the bottom end of the tolerance with 8500uf or less (MANY in the 8200-8300uf range).

The problem with low-spec caps below 8500uf is the meanwell power supply apparently thinks there's a short when they charge up too quickly, pulling more power in a burst at boot and it kicks in their protection circuit. That's why you hear that relay clicking on and off in the power supply (officially called "hiccup mode" by Meanwell) when the game is turned on. Since that's where the sound is coming from, people think the power supply is the problem, but the power supply is working as designed. The newer CAPS on the PDB are underperforming relative to Stern's engineering assumptions when the PDB was designed, causing the power supply to make the clicking until the caps finally charge up. Inrush (the surge of power at boot) from the massive capacitance Stern built on the PDB exceeds the max temporary draw for the power supply. With the older caps the inrush was low enough that it didn't pull too hard and trigger the power supply safety circuit, but the new material inside the same CDE caps changed the inrush peak so now it's over in many cases, causing clicking while the power supply tries to deal with the boot surge.

Figuring out what caps you have is key. On the top of each cap there's a 4 digit code pressed into the plastic disc. The first two numbers are the year, the second two are the week of the year that cap was made, and a "P" to denote that this is a polarized cap, so install orientation matters. 22xxP and some 21xxP with numbers for the xx over 40 are ALL suspect with about 50% of the caps at or below 8500uf tested on a 10,000uf cap. Given that you have to have THREE >8500uf caps on the board for it not to click, your odds of hitting on the right side of that 2022 lot 50% three times are 12.5% - not good. 2236P is more likely to have a better than 50% pool of good caps, but 2241P and 2245P are pretty uniformly awful. ALL the early 21xx caps I tested were well over 9,000uf, most 9500uf or above, so GREAT performance, no power supply clicking. 2119P is the lot I have most often, all great, zero duds like 2022 has lots of. EDIT: I received some 2141P caps, so late 2021, and they are also heavier at 1.7oz and have lower spec performance at about 8600-8700uf for the ones I tested, so the material change seems to have happened late in 2021, not 2022. Early 2021 lot caps are still the ones to get.

If you have excessive clicking at boot (I would call that 5 or more clicks - some people have had 50 or more, and some so many the game NEVER booted), I would pursue a warranty claim with Stern for another PDB. It doesn't appear that they are pre-testing the replacements they send out, so you may get another click-causing board, but persist. For some reason Stern is ALSO sending a new power supply in some cases. This is COMPLETELY UNNECESSARY since the problem IS NOT on the power supply, despite the fact that the power supply is clicking. If this happens to you, only replace the PDB and that should do the trick (unless you're unlucky enough to get ANOTHER click-causing PDB as a replacement - it's happened).

Once you get the replacement PDB installed, give it a few days of power cycles. It's not uncommon for the first one or two or maybe more to not click and it seems like problem fixed, but then it starts clicking again.

If you cannot get satisfaction from Stern, or you have the skills and just don't want to hassle with them, you can 100% fix this yourself by replacing the caps with the known good early 2021 lot caps. DO NOT get them from Mouser or Digikey - I ordered from both in the investigation phase and got late 2021 and 2022 lot caps from both. I found a distributor that has a few hundred early 2021 lot caps (2119P). I've ordered a few dozen from them and all are early 2021 (EDIT: As of 10/24/23 they're now shipping later 2021 caps). Best part is, it's $10 plus $8 shipping to get all three caps you need - cheap. Here's the link:

https://us.rs-online.com/product/cornell-dubilier/slpx103m063e9p3/70189937/?m=70189937

These Caps are all ok for the PDB, according to Stern:
Samyoung RDC63VN10000M (Samyoung is a garbage cap company, so not sure I trust these)
Cornell Dubilier SLPX103M063H7P3 (shorter, fatter version of one Stern uses)
Cornell Dubilier SLPX103M063E9P3 (the one Stern uses)
Surge / Lelon LS-103M1J- - -3050S (haven't been able to lay hands on one of these)

Note that the caps are pretty hard to get desoldered and off the board. I had to crank up the power on my weller to almost max temp and use donor solder to get them off. Definitely a danger zone for accidentally lifting pads if you leave a super hot iron on too long, which would multiply the problem, so be careful. This is probably a good time to break out that hakko desoldering gun if you have it (equipped with a larger than stock tip).

Also note that the right side of the PDB has live 120v power, so UNPLUG your pin before attempting to remove the PDB board. Switch off isn't enough.

Whichever route you go, good luck. The good news is, the clicking CAN definitely be fixed, one way or another.

#2 11 months ago

Thanks for your very informative post. This makes me want to wait a few months before I buy one of these. I was gonna get one this coming week...

#3 11 months ago
Quoted from D-Gottlieb:

Thanks for your very informative post. This makes me want to wait a few months before I buy one of these. I was gonna get one this coming week...

I think you'll probably be fine. If it were extremely widespread I think you'd see a lot more complaining. Right now it's at what I would call a simmer. Stern engineering is definitely aware of it, so hopefully they'll have their board vendor pre-screen the caps to make sure they're >8500uf before they put them on boards.

I did OK with the NIB new run Maiden Prem I just got (Edit: Not so fast - the person I sold it to started in with the clicks, up to 30. I am fixing their PDB), and my FF LE didn't have this issue, either. I had to have someone SEND me their click-causing board to do the original investigation. I also have a Venom Pro and Premium coming.

Buy your pin.

#4 11 months ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

I think you'll probably be fine. If it were extremely widespread I think you'd see a lot more complaining. Right now it's at what I would call a simmer. Stern engineering is definitely aware of it, so hopefully they'll have their board vendor pre-screen the caps to make sure they're >8500uf before they put them on boards.
I did OK with the NIB new run Maiden Prem I just got, and my FF LE didn't have this issue, either. I had to have someone SEND me their click-causing board to do the original investigation. I also have a Venom Pro and Premium coming.
Buy your pin.

Ok, as long as Stern is aware of this and taking appropriate steps..

16
#5 11 months ago

Awesome investigation and documentation.
I'm going to add this to the PinWiki.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact
https://www.youtube.com/c/ChrisHiblerPinball
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

#7 11 months ago

good info!

1 week later
#8 11 months ago

For anyone who needs to know, Pablo at Stern for told me the part number is 520-8096-00 for my GZ machine.

#9 11 months ago
Quoted from SylentK:

For anyone who needs to know, Pablo at Stern for told me the part number is 520-8096-00 for my GZ machine.

Note that Stern doesn't seem to be pre-screening replacement boards, so you might get a PDB that still causes clicks in exchange.

#10 11 months ago
Quoted from SylentK:

For anyone who needs to know, Pablo at Stern for told me the part number is 520-8096-00 for my GZ machine.

$75 at PBL for those out of warranty or unable to get STern to make it right under warranty.

#11 11 months ago
Quoted from Markharris2000:

$75 at PBL for those out of warranty or unable to get STern to make it right under warranty.

Note that PBL stock also potentially causes clicks. I got one from them with the same low-spec cap lot that made the power supply click (until I replaced the caps).

#12 11 months ago
Quoted from Markharris2000:

$75 at PBL for those out of warranty or unable to get STern to make it right under warranty.

Stern needs to take care of this known defect.

#13 11 months ago

Edited the post. Received some late 2021 caps (2141P) and they are the heavier (1.7oz), crappier performance ones. So the change of materials that made the caps perform worse happened sometime in late 2021. Early 2021 caps are all fine.

#14 11 months ago

Maybe someone bag up a kit of 3 'good' caps and sell them as a 'mod' for folks that can't get Stern to do their warranty/support job? Or Someone send a advanced PDB swap service? (Send me the old board and I will send you a new TESTED one with good caps soldered in for $50 kind of thing?

Frustrating that Stern does not open their arms to fix this issue...

#15 11 months ago

PinMonk
Thanks for the heads up.
The cap supplier linked has very good prices. I assume you've found them to be reliable?

Also, the part linked is a 63V part. What was the voltage rating for the OEM part?
Thanks!
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact
https://www.youtube.com/c/ChrisHiblerPinball
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

#16 11 months ago
Quoted from ChrisHibler:

PinMonk
Thanks for the heads up.
The cap supplier linked has very good prices. I assume you've found them to be reliable?
Also, the part linked is a 63V part. What was the voltage rating for the OEM part?
Thanks!
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact
https://www.youtube.com/c/ChrisHiblerPinball
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

I've done 3 boards so far and the 2119P 2021 caps from the link I provided solved the clicking on the power supply for all three. All of the replacement caps tested out at over 9000uf before install, so nowhere near the danger zone. None of the boards have slipped back into causing the clicking again.

The cap I linked is the exact part from the same manufacturer as the ones on Stern's PDB. Same capacitance, same voltage, same temperature rating, etc. Yeah, the prices at RS are markedly better than anyone else, which is a nice surprise given that they have just the caps needed for this fix. Makes this repair a very reasonable $10 plus $8 shipping (if you only get 3, I bought many so I have a stockpile).

#17 11 months ago

From when we all started to discuss this all of Your arguments made sense but I had some doubts.When Stern gave me a PS and PDB
I thought well why give both.Then its down to 1 but the wrong 1.Only a PS whats the thinking on this I wonder.Did they find something else ?
Anyway You were right it seems.

#18 11 months ago
Quoted from Jamesays:

From when we all started to discuss this all of Your arguments made sense but I had some doubts.When Stern gave me a PS and PDB
I thought well why give both.Then its down to 1 but the wrong 1.Only a PS whats the thinking on this I wonder.Did they find something else ?
Anyway You were right it seems.

Yeah, I wasn't doubting my results, but when that one pinsider reported only getting a power supply to replace from Stern warranty support, I was thinking the solution may get more complicated if it could be the power supply OR the PDB OR Both. But in the end, it's the PDB. Keeping it simple.

No idea why Stern warranty support is sending out just power supplies when I KNOW Stern Engineering knows the problem is with the PDB.

#19 11 months ago

Great work Pinmonk

I don't have any skills in this area, so just a random idea but I haven't heard of any issues in Australia - could it be a 50hertz versus a 60 hertz power supply thing by chance?

#20 11 months ago
Quoted from swinks:

Great work Pinmonk
I don't have any skills in this area, so just a random idea but I haven't heard of any issues in Australia - could it be a 50hertz versus a 60 hertz power supply thing by chance?

I have no idea. It may be that meanwell's power supply operates differently in 230v/50hz mode. It will be an interesting data point if the clicking isn't happening outside of North America.

#21 11 months ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Yeah, I wasn't doubting my results, but when that one pinsider reported only getting a power supply to replace from Stern warranty support, I was thinking the solution may get more complicated if it could be the power supply OR the PDB OR Both. But in the end, it's the PDB. Keeping it simple.
No idea why Stern warranty support is sending out just power supplies when I KNOW Stern Engineering knows the problem is with the PDB.

You’re 100% correct. The PS stopped the clicking for roughly 2 days before it started again. Stern is sending out a new PDB and I will be checking the caps to see what the numbers are!

#22 11 months ago
Quoted from qbass187:

You’re 100% correct. The PS stopped the clicking for roughly 2 days before it started again. Stern is sending out a new PDB and I will be checking the caps to see what the numbers are!

It's not impossible to get a PDB with 22xxP series caps that doesn't cause clicking, it just is more likely to have issues than a 21xxP cap because of whatever manufacturer change to the cap's composition was that made them heavier and crappier. But I stocked up on 2119P caps so I have enough on hand to handle any ones I may end up with that cause the power supply to click.

I'm sure Stern will get this worked out, either by changing cap suppliers or by forcing the supplier to screen their caps for ones that fall above 8500uf. It will just take time to filter out.

#23 11 months ago
They-dont-make-em (resized).jpgThey-dont-make-em (resized).jpg
#24 11 months ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

It's not impossible to get a PDB with 22xxP series caps that doesn't cause clicking, it just is more likely to have issues than a 21xxP cap because of whatever manufacturer change to the cap's composition was that made them heavier and crappier. But I stocked up on 2119P caps so I have enough on hand to handle any ones I may end up with that cause the power supply to click.
I'm sure Stern will get this worked out, either by changing cap suppliers or by forcing the supplier to screen their caps for ones that fall above 8500uf. It will just take time to filter out.

Might be a few options for them if they actually choose to solve this problem: They could they choose a different Power Supply with more startup load tolerance to allow the different charging times on the caps? Or change the design of the PDB to have a regulator/buffer between the caps and the PS, or re-layout the PCB for th distribution board to use a totally different capacitor with higher specs. Might be other approaches too, but it starts with a desire to fix the 'part-time' problem...

#25 11 months ago
Quoted from Markharris2000:

Might be a few options for them if they actually choose to solve this problem: They could they choose a different Power Supply with more startup load tolerance to allow the different charging times on the caps? Or change the design of the PDB to have a regulator/buffer between the caps and the PS, or re-layout the PCB for th distribution board to use a totally different capacitor with higher specs. Might be other approaches too, but it starts with a desire to fix the 'part-time' problem...

Power supply has proven to be reliable. This is an issue of a manufacturer changing the cap construction (likely without telling Stern) for the caps used on the PDB. Fix the caps, fix the problem. No need to jump to an unproven new power supply.

#26 11 months ago

I just unboxed a FF pro that has the 2241P caps. Works today, does that mean in a few weeks it won't, what should I be watching for?

#27 11 months ago
Quoted from D-Gottlieb:

I just unboxed a FF pro that has the 2241P caps. Works today, does that mean in a few weeks it won't, what should I be watching for?

Check out the video in the OP. That's an extreme case of like 40 clicks. If you eventually have less than 5 clicks, I wouldn't be worried about it. A couple clicks is normal.

#28 11 months ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Check out the video in the OP. That's an extreme case of like 40 clicks. If you eventually have less than 5 clicks, I wouldn't be worried about it. A couple clicks is normal.

So far, so good. One day old, several power cycles, no clicks. I really appreciate your knowledge on this.

#29 11 months ago
Quoted from D-Gottlieb:

So far, so good. One day old, several power cycles, no clicks. I really appreciate your knowledge on this.

Glad to help. I know i'd be pissed if Stern sent me a NIB that was clicking excessively and support told me it was "normal" with no way offered to fix it back to ACTUAL normal except maybe another PDB that might have the same issue.

Happy to provide some options for people in this situation (and knowing I will eventually lose the Stern lottery and end up with a clicker myself that I now can fix).

I have a Bond 60th PDB coming in that is causing the clicks. Interested to know what the caps read on a $20k machine. If Stern isn't pre-screening PDBs for their highest-end machines, they just don't care.

#30 11 months ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

they just don't care.

It has become pretty easy to conclude this. Their customer service actions don’t help resolve the issue. They must know that.

Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
Http://chrishiblerpinball.com/contact
Thank you for checking out the PinWiki - http://www.PinWiki.com/

#31 11 months ago

Have you measured the ESR of the different capacitors? I'm wondering if the newer date codes are not within spec.

#32 11 months ago
Quoted from Planet866:

Have you measured the ESR of the different capacitors? I'm wondering if the newer date codes are not within spec.

Capacitance. It gave me the info I needed to sort caps by which would cause clicking and which wouldn't.

#33 11 months ago

One wrinkle I haven't seen discussed...I have a PDB that DOESN'T click when I turn on the machine first thing in the morning after it's been off all night. But it DOES click a few times on boot if I cycle the power quickly during the day after fixing something etc. What could cause this?

#34 11 months ago
Quoted from AMartin56:

One wrinkle I haven't seen discussed...I have a PDB that DOESN'T click when I turn on the machine first thing in the morning after it's been off all night. But it DOES click a few times on boot if I cycle the power quickly during the day after fixing something etc. What could cause this?

Since it's not clear what the core issue is, just symptoms and the low spec caps somehow affecting that, it's hard to say. All I can guess is electrical conductivity changes with temperature, so cold vs warm probably has something to do with it.

#35 11 months ago

Just got an RMA on the PDB for my week old Godzilla Premium, started clicking after one day, usually 3-6 clicks before boot, but then I had one startup where it just got stuck clicking for almost a full minute and never booted, turned power off and tried again a few minutes later with just a few clicks and booted normally. I mentioned all the talk of the PDB on pinside when I emailed stern, and they agreed the problem is the PDB. Only annoying thing is they required me to have my distributer file the warranty order, luckily my distro was on top of it right away, so got the RMA going the next day. So hopefully I'll get the new board within the week, and hope it's a good board.

#36 11 months ago
Quoted from drum412:

Just got an RMA on the PDB for my week old Godzilla Premium, started clicking after one day, usually 3-6 clicks before boot, but then I had one startup where it just got stuck clicking for almost a full minute and never booted, turned power off and tried again a few minutes later with just a few clicks and booted normally. I mentioned all the talk of the PDB on pinside when I emailed stern, and they agreed the problem is the PDB. Only annoying thing is they required me to have my distributer file the warranty order, luckily my distro was on top of it right away, so got the RMA going the next day. So hopefully I'll get the new board within the week, and hope it's a good board.

I had the same experience with stern and my late June build GZ. Still waiting on my distro to confirm the order was placed but it seems like stern is responsive.

#37 11 months ago

So I posted in the Foo Fighters thread but this is PDB related so here goes- Brand NIB FF Pro I just got and I go to connect a new Stern shaker motor and it runs continuously upon power up but before boot. I have been in conversation with Stern and they advised me to try a different PDB from a different Spike 2 machine if I could since I have a couple of other pins. I said ok and noticed that the PDB has a cracked and mismounted component (appears to have been damaged during assembly) and I forwarded a photo. They will have to send me a new board. Hopefully this will fix the problem. On the plus side, the FF works fine otherwise, no clicks on power up.

PXL_20230811_212029933.jpgPXL_20230811_212029933.jpgPXL_20230811_212509737.jpgPXL_20230811_212509737.jpg

#38 11 months ago
Quoted from D-Gottlieb:

So I posted in the Foo Fighters thread but this is PDB related so here goes- Brand NIB FF Pro I just got and I go to connect a new Stern shaker motor and it runs continuously upon power up but before boot. I have been in conversation with Stern and they advised me to try a different PDB from a different Spike 2 machine if I could since I have a couple of other pins. I said ok and noticed that the PDB has a cracked and mismounted component (appears to have been damaged during assembly) and I forwarded a photo. They will have to send me a new board. Hopefully this will fix the problem. On the plus side, the FF works fine otherwise, no clicks on power up.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Doesn't look like it broke during assembly, it looks like that resistor blew from a short or overload. Hopefully the problem isn't somewhere else and it blows the resistor on the new PDB again (or you don't get a click-causing PDB in exchange).

#39 11 months ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Doesn't look like it broke during assembly, it looks like that resistor blew from a short or overload. Hopefully the problem isn't somewhere else and it blows the resistor on the new PDB again (or you don't get a click-causing PDB in exchange).

That's interesting. Because to me it looks misaligned and I thought that the crack was from too much force applied during assembly. However it got damaged, do you think this could cause the problem I am experiencing?

#40 11 months ago
Quoted from D-Gottlieb:

That's interesting. Because to me it looks misaligned and I thought that the crack was from too much force applied during assembly. However it got damaged, do you think this could cause the problem I am experiencing?

I don't have a schematic, so I'm not sure where R5 goes on the PDB. Someone posted a partial schematic somewhere, but I didn't save it and now I don't know where I saw it. If the shaker motor is constantly running, something is shorted open. Question is what. I would guess a transistor (there's an IFR540Z surface mount one RIGHT next to the shaker motor connector, which would be my prime suspect in this case), but...

If you have a multimeter you could test that transistor to see if it's shorted open. Alternately, do you have another Spike2 machine? You could swap the coin door interface board and see if that fixes your shaker problem. If it does, the problem is on that board and the cracked PDB resistor is unrelated.

It's pretty common that when a resistor or transistor blows it cracks the casing (sometimes blows it completely off). That looks like a blown resistor to me. It's surface mount, so unlikely to have enough force at install to crack the casing that way.

#41 11 months ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

I don't have a schematic, so I'm not sure where R5 goes on the PDB. Someone posted a partial schematic somewhere, but I didn't save it and now I don't know where I saw it. If the shaker motor is constantly running, something is shorted open. Question is what. I would guess a transistor (there's an IFR540Z surface mount one RIGHT next to the shaker motor connector, which would be my prime suspect in this case), but...
If you have a multimeter you could test that transistor to see if it's shorted open. Alternately, do you have another Spike2 machine? You could swap the coin door interface board and see if that fixes your shaker problem. If it does, the problem is on that board and the cracked PDB resistor is unrelated.
It's pretty common that when a resistor or transistor blows it cracks the casing (sometimes blows it completely off). That looks like a blown resistor to me. It's surface mount, so unlikely to have enough force at install to crack the casing that way.

Very keen observation I didn't know what that part was. I did actually swap cabinet boards from my Mando and the problem persisted. So it is something else. I will be following up with Stern on Monday. They should at least send a new PDB out, so we shall see if that fixes it...

#42 11 months ago
Quoted from D-Gottlieb:

Very keen observation I didn't know what that part was. I did actually swap cabinet boards from my Mando and the problem persisted. So it is something else. I will be following up with Stern on Monday. They should at least send a new PDB out, so we shall see if that fixes it...

Something before that transistor could be telling it to open, then. Without a schematic, can't really guess. Will be interesting if that PDB swap fixes it.

#43 11 months ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Something before that transistor could be telling it to open, then. Without a schematic, can't really guess. Will be interesting if that PDB swap fixes it.

I will update..

#44 11 months ago

D-Gottlieb
Could I trouble you for a better lit picture of this board? I’d love to add a pic to the PInWiki.

Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
Http://chrishiblerpinball.com/contact
Thank you for checking out the PinWiki - http://www.PinWiki.com/

#45 11 months ago
Quoted from ChrisHibler:

D-Gottlieb
Could I trouble you for a better lit picture of this board? I’d love to add a pic to the PInWiki.

Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
Http://chrishiblerpinball.com/contact
Thank you for checking out the PinWiki - http://www.PinWiki.com/

I processed one of his pics. Is this enough?

Spike2-PDB.jpgSpike2-PDB.jpg
#46 11 months ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

I processed one of his pics. Is this enough?
[quoted image]

That’s pretty good until we can get a better original. Thank you.

What is better?
It’s better when the part labels can be read in every part.

Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
Http://chrishiblerpinball.com/contact
Thank you for checking out the PinWiki - http://www.PinWiki.com/

#47 11 months ago
Quoted from ChrisHibler:

That’s pretty good until we can get a better original. Thank you.
What is better?
It’s better when the part labels can be read in every part.

Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
Http://chrishiblerpinball.com/contact
Thank you for checking out the PinWiki - http://www.PinWiki.com/

Unfortunately the cracked resistor means this one will never be "better" since the crack blew out the part number so all numbers will never be visible as-is If you just need a clean PDB pic, I can take one for you.

#48 11 months ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Unfortunately the cracked resistor means this one will never be "better" since the crack blew out the part number so all numbers will never be visible as-is If you just need a clean PDB pic, I can take one for you.

Yes. That would be very nice.
I’m trying to build up the PInWiki Spike section. Any quality pic you can offer would be greatly appreciated. I don’t own a Spike game so I’m at a bit of a disadvantage.

On another note, I’m working on an 8-driver 8-switch node board. It thinks switch 4 is closed all the time which causes the auto plunger to pulse over and over. I haven’t figured out why it thinks the switch is closed yet but it should be obvious once I hook it up to a 48V PS. The pull-up resistor is good.

It had a shorted cap just under the 5V regulator that I suspect caused the entire 5V and 3.3V section to be inop. It goes into a WWE. Found the shorted cap with a thermal camera. Fun stuff.

Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
Http://chrishiblerpinball.com/contact
Thank you for checking out the PinWiki - http://www.PinWiki.com/

#49 11 months ago

I tried to take a good pic so I could send it to Stern, I don't have great photog skills I guess.

#50 11 months ago

Just some more good quality news out of Stern headquarters !!!

Promoted items from Pinside Marketplace and Pinside Shops!
11,500
Machine - For Sale
Traverse City, MI
$ 159.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Sparky Pinball
 
$ 29.95
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
ULEKstore
 
Wanted
Machine - Wanted
Gainesville, GA
$ 50.00
Playfield - Protection
Duke Pinball
 
$ 49.99
Cabinet - Toppers
Lighted Pinball Mods
 
From: $ 10.00
Cabinet - Other
BomberMods
 
From: $ 30.00
Cabinet - Other
Rocket City Pinball
 
$ 28.50
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
ULEKstore
 
€ 75.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Pino Pinball Mods Shop
 
$ 39.95
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
ULEKstore
 
7,200 (OBO)
Machine - For Sale
Johnson City, TN
$ 15.00
Playfield - Protection
FlipMods
 
$ 125.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
CRCades
 
$ 5.00
Cabinet - Decals
Pinball Fuzz
 
$ 80.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Lermods
 
From: € 40.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Pino Pinball Mods Shop
 
From: $ 35.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Twisted Tokens
 
$ 145.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
CRCades
 
From: $ 17.95
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
ULEKstore
 
$ 749.00
Cabinet - Toppers
Orange County Pinballs
 
From: $ 70.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
arcade-cabinets.com
 
$ 69.99
Cabinet - Decals
Inscribed Solutions
 
€ 40.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Pino Pinball Mods Shop
 
6,250 (Firm)
Machine - For Sale
Muskego, WI
From: $ 225.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Raiden Mods
 
There are 366 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 8.

Reply

Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.

Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!

Donate to Pinside

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!


This page was printed from and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.

Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.