(Topic ID: 244791)

Stencils bled - what are my options?


By dudah

11 days ago



Topic Stats

  • 8 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 days ago by Jjsmooth
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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    #1 11 days ago

    So I'm restoring this EM rifle game.
    I made stencils on some Oramask (which has worked well in the past) and the stencils bled through very badly.
    This is systemic on all parts.
    Before spraying, I inspected them and and they look to be adhered well despite being applied the previous day.

    I sprayed a latex paint watered down approximately 15% to milk like consistency.
    Did they bleed because the paint was too thin?
    Or because the decals were applied the day before and kept in a warm garage?

    Do I have any options to recover this outside of touching the whole thing up with a paintbrush (and a ruler for the straight edges)?

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    #2 11 days ago

    I think the paint was too thin, and applied too heavy. I've used frisket a lot in the past, and have always sprayed thin light coats just until i got solid coverage.

    I just used a set of pinball pimp stencils on a grand prix with pretty good results spraying light coats.

    #3 11 days ago

    Applying the stencil the day before should not have been an issue since you said it was kept warm. I agree with pablito350 in that it looks like it was applied too thick and may have been too thin. Unfortunately, there aren't a lot of options. I've found, that if you have a deft hand with an airbrush you can blend out the runs and get a more authentic look than with a paintbrush. It ain't gonna be a fun time regardless.

    #4 11 days ago

    Thanks for the great I input. I suppose I'll try to think the next color less and dial the gun to deliver less paint. Assuming a few light costs is better than 2 heavy coats?

    #5 11 days ago

    Yes, more light coats is always better than fewer heavy coats. That goes for pretty much everything. The struggle for impatient people (me!) is waiting the proper length of time between coats. Latex isn't a big deal but some finishes have long dry times between coats. This is especially true in instances where you are applying a different composition coats (e.g. oil vs water)

    #6 11 days ago

    You could easily sharpen those edges with a brush in the areas where the purple meets the white. Where the purple meets the red i wouldn't do anything. The painting of the red stencil will take care of that.

    You could either freehand with a small brush of white, or just tape a line at a time, and do it that way.

    On a side note... You did an amazing job on that webbing!

    -Paul

    #7 7 days ago

    Sometimes even the best of us screw up and have to start again. I messed up the circle pattern on a Ks&Qs, I sanded down the side and redid it. Sometimes you'll spend more time in fix then just redoing the complete side.

    Its all a learning process, we learn from our mistakes and hopefully share them with others

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    #8 7 days ago

    I used to try to use latex in the past. Sometimes went well, others not. I have found that that spray paint works well every time, and if I try hard enough, I will find the color I need.
    Apply first coat as just a mist coat to seal edges of stencil.

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