Thanks guys. I'll be doing the stenciling with him. That's good info.
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Quoted from KenLayton:Yes, Pinball Pal is closed.
Thanks Ken. Looks like Twisted Pins wins then. Travis from there sent my brother a nice private message about his stencils so I already like them
Quoted from vid1900:Correct.
You can get that underspray look with a lot of extra work, but even then, nothing looks as good as real rigid stencil.
Is there a way to get one or do you have to make your own? I seriously thougth about it but decided this was too complicated and didn't want to do it twice once I messed up trying to save a buck.
Well the stencil from Travis at Twisted Pins is on the way. I was interested in the under/overspray look but Arcade (OP) likes the clean look so I think I'll be just as happy either way. I don't subscribe to the original ugly cabinet is better theroy.
Quoted from Retropin:Capt Fantastic stencils also available from http://www.flipperescue.com
Results speak for themselvescapt Fant sample.jpg 432 KB
IMG_0538.JPG 274 KB
IMG_0530.JPG 396 KB
IMG_0521.JPG 516 KB
That looks great! What color white did you use? (For that matter what color red and blue) Was that the flipper rescue stencil?
Will do. We are debating the basecoat idea now. Roll or Spray??? We don't have a compressed air paint system so it is rattle cans for us on the spraying.
Quoted from HighNoon:I have a 21 gallon upright. A pancake might not be big enough...it probably would have to be constantly recharging.
--Luke
That is what I feared and why we wern't going to try and use it. If it starts making the paint gun spurt it could look pretty bad and be hard to fix. I don't have a lot of knowledge in the area but a good consistant spray with an even coat is what the goal is.
As a side note/question, do you find it hard to clean out the system between colors? That worries me. I don't need pink because I sprayed white and red.
Well I found a gravity feed gun at harbour freight on sale for $16. I'm going to buy it tomorrow and hook it up to my pancake compressor to see what kind of duration I can get out of it. If it passes the test I'll use it instead of rattle cans.
Thanks for the tips
Quoted from HighNoon:Was it something like this:
http://www.harborfreight.com/20-oz-high-volume-low-pressure-gravity-feed-spray-gun-47016.html
If so, that's what I use. Good luck! Let us know how it goes!
--Luke
Yes. That is the one. I purchased it today and hooked it up to my 6 gallon compressor. I ran a water through it to test it and the compressor. Both passed the test well. I have a buddy that owns an auto repair shop. I'm going to call him tomorrow to see where I can get automotive paint. I've matched the red and blue with my pantone color chart. My standard pantone chart doesn't show shades of white so i'll have to guess the correct off white to use. I took a picture with my phone that I feel came out pretty accurate.
Quoted from toro1966:The clear I use is also PPG - in the OMNI brand it is 161.
Thanks for the paint info!! Is that clear a gloss, flat, semi???
Quoted from toro1966:Pictures of the latest. First couple pics look washed out, forgot to turn off the flash... - in reality they are rich and deep:
Do those pics have the clear coat on them. I was worried when we stopped in the auto paint store today that the clear would be to shinny. Those pics look like they have a nice finish but not too shinny. The guy at the store told me if I wanted the kind of clear that can be flattened it cost twice as much. Over $100 for the clear alone plus they won't add the flattener. I am getting confused now and I'm on information over load. Is using latex this complicated? Wouldn't it need to be "reduced" as well?
Quoted from trilogybeer:When I do a cabinet with automotive paint I usually spend around $400 in materials . Primer , sealer , basecoat , stencil colors and clearcoat , it adds up real quick .
It sure does. You can get over the value of the machine quickly doing this if you're not paying attention or care about that. I'd guess even the rattle cans add up as well lol.
Quoted from John_I:I use automotive paint. It is more expensive but you get what you pay for. It doesn't need to be thinned when it goes in the sprayer, covers in one nice thin coat, can be applied easily to a vertical surface, dries rock hard in like 10 seconds and doesn't peel or lift when you pull up the stencil. Once the prep and base coat is on, the stencil work literally takes less than an hour for the whole cabinet and head. I then do a light sanding to knock down the paint edges and coat the whole cabinet with Minwax polycrylic semigloss clear. This gives the whole cabinet uniform reflection, protects the paint and you can run your hand down the cabinet and barely feel any edges.
Is this the clear you use? Someone cautioned against using non automotive clear earlier so I threw out the idea until I reread your post.
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Minwax-Polycrylic-Protective-Finish-1-qt-Semi-Gloss/17300111
Quoted from KingNine:Is this the clear you use? Someone cautioned against using non automotive clear earlier so I threw out the idea until I reread your post.
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Minwax-Polycrylic-Protective-Finish-1-qt-Semi-Gloss/17300111
Do you thin (reduce) it?
Stain would be for tinting wood with wood grain showing through. Paint is for covering the wood. Also they used plywood to build them and I sure wouldn't bet they were using stain grade wood to build them.
Quoted from toro1966:Hey guys, a couple of answers for you. Please let me know if I don't answer them all and I'll get right back to you...
Hope this helps.
Cheers!
Quoted from HighNoon:Great post with lots of good information! The only thing I'd add on the latex comments is to add Floetrol when you spray it. It will improve the flow and levelling of the latex when you shoot it. Floetrol doesn't reduce the paint, though, so you still have to add water.
--Luke
Thanks to both of you. That is such good information. Almost a definitive answer for all who are thinking about painting a cabinet.
I have another question now. I stopped in an O'Reilly's Auto Parts on the way home and found the following product. First I'd like to know if this is real automotive paint and if so does anyone one have any knowledge of it and if it works? It is $25 per quart of any color. The primer and Clear Coat are the same price as well. The can said it was ready in 10 min. The catch, if this will work, is that you are limited to the few colors they offer.
Thanks for those replies. Since I'm not too familiar with lacquer other than knowing the name, if these color options they have work for the machine needing painting would there be a problem using it? Drawbacks ect... The two comments above seem encouraging. I like that it would seem we should have enough left to do multiple machines but if lacquer takes 5 coats to cover then it is probably almost the same $ wise with more steps.
Thanks. I ran into my buddy that own the the body shop last night. He isn't a huge fan of lacquer and said it starts to turn chalky after a few years in the sun. He said he used it on cabinets that got a lot of sun through windows and they started loosing their color after 5 years. When I mentioned there were people using latex he cringed and said "use the lacquer" lol. He did still think the shop line auto paint is the way to go if we can afford it. He qualified all his comments with the fact he is somewhat of a paint snob and wants everything to be the best it can be.
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