(Topic ID: 95124)

Stencil Kit Question

By Arcade

9 years ago


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  • 70 posts
  • 19 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 years ago by KingNine
  • Topic is favorited by 12 Pinsiders

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#1 9 years ago

We want to repaint our Captain Fantastic cabinet and were going to make our own stencils. We decided it would probably be easier and faster to buy a kit but there are three people selling them and I can't find much info on here about the quality and usability of any of them. Do any of you have some experience with these guys?

http://www.classic-arcades.com/STORE/index1.html?305.html&1
http://www.twistedpins.com/products/stencil_kits/?tabid=3091&PageIndex=3
http://www.pinballpal.com/products/stencil/

The twisted pin guy seems active on here so I guess I'd lean that way but would love to here some opinions on the subject first.

1 week later
#35 9 years ago
Quoted from John_I:

I use automotive paint. It is more expensive but you get what you pay for. It doesn't need to be thinned when it goes in the sprayer, covers in one nice thin coat, can be applied easily to a vertical surface, dries rock hard in like 10 seconds and doesn't peel or lift when you pull up the stencil. Once the prep and base coat is on, the stencil work literally takes less than an hour for the whole cabinet and head. I then do a light sanding to knock down the paint edges and coat the whole cabinet with Minwax polycrylic semigloss clear. This gives the whole cabinet uniform reflection, protects the paint and you can run your hand down the cabinet and barely feel any edges.

Awesome, what brand and where do you purchase your automotive paints?

#41 9 years ago
Quoted from John_I:

Not sure the brand, but I think it is Dupont because that is what the primer is. I just go to the automotive paint store and they mix it and put it in a generic container. This is not a car parts store or a Sherwin Williams, it is a specialty store for auto paint and supplies. I did have to thin the primer. It is a "high solid" primer. It doesn't sink into the wood grain as much as normal primer when it dries because it is mostly solids. The paint themselves are very thin and worked fine in my sprayer with the largest nozzle. As for the coating, it dries so fast I basically put a really thin coat and wait twenty seconds and come back with a second thicker coat. I guess that is two coats technically, but it is so fast it might as well be one.

I talked to me friend that owns the body shop and he told me to get DBC grade with the reducer and that it would need to be clear coated. Are you using automotive clear coat or off the shelf at home depot clear coat? Also.. he mentioned there is a "shop grade" auto paint he won't use because it only last about 5 years on an automobile in the sun but would probably work well for this application and would cost less. Any thoughts? I know this paint is much more expensive but in the long run if you only use a little of it is it close to the cost of putting multiple coats of home grade paint like the Behr paint mentioned above?

#44 9 years ago

Thanks Toro, that is some great information and will help us a lot.

#47 9 years ago

Our automotive place is recommending a single stage paint that already has clear coat in it.
Anybody see a problem with using that.
Seems like a good idea.

#51 9 years ago
Quoted from TwistedPins:

DON"T USE SINGLE STAGE!!

Message received.
Thanks for the info on that.

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