Do those pics have the clear coat on them. I was worried when we stopped in the auto paint store today that the clear would be to shinny. Those pics look like they have a nice finish but not too shinny. The guy at the store told me if I wanted the kind of clear that can be flattened it cost twice as much. Over $100 for the clear alone plus they won't add the flattener. I am getting confused now and I'm on information over load. Is using latex this complicated? Wouldn't it need to be "reduced" as well?

Yes typically matte clear for automotive paint is more expensive .

Latex would need to be reduced also if being sprayed . Drying times would be much longer .

When I do a cabinet with automotive paint I usually spend around $400 in materials . Primer , sealer , basecoat , stencil colors and clearcoat , it adds up real quick .

It sure does. You can get over the value of the machine quickly doing this if you're not paying attention or care about that. I'd guess even the rattle cans add up as well lol.

Is this the clear you use? Someone cautioned against using non automotive clear earlier so I threw out the idea until I reread your post.

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Minwax-Polycrylic-Protective-Finish-1-qt-Semi-Gloss/17300111

Do you thin (reduce) it?

wood stain?

*** EDIT***
I got here from another thread where people where talking about painting the inside of the cab.....made the mistake of not reading the thread prior to....my bad.

Stain would be for tinting wood with wood grain showing through. Paint is for covering the wood. Also they used plywood to build them and I sure wouldn't bet they were using stain grade wood to build them.

Hey guys, a couple of answers for you. Please let me know if I don't answer them all and I'll get right back to you:
1 - those pics do have clear and it is a gloss clear. Though the pictures wash out some of the gloss, it is a glossy finish in person. That said, it is definitely not too glossy. I know exactly what you mean when you say you don't want it to be blindingly distracting, but I didn't find it that way at all - and so far no one else that has seen them has either. The sheen is very nice.
2 - The automotive supply guy is absolutely correct when he says matte is more expensive. It's because you actually have to mix a couple of different materials to get the matte finish. Not hard to do, but uses more "stuff". I do this for my arcade machines and they are all a matte/satin finish (depending on choice). Pinballs I typically clear in gloss. Though they didn't come this way, I have never had anyone say - "I wish that was matte"
3 - I only get my supplies from an auto-paint supply place, but I do know of others who get theirs from Auto-Zone, Advance, etc. I get mine from a specialty store because I know I am getting the right stuff and it is compatible. Trust me - it is way cheaper than having rework because the materials were crap.
4 - I DO reduce my clear SOMETIMES. It is entirely dependent on the material. Most clears WILL NOT call for reducing in the spec sheet. It is usually a ratio of clear to activator (catalyst). I only use reducer when I need it. How do you know you need it? Once you get used to spraying a cab, the you can tell when the material is not spraying properly and needs to be thinned (often this is seen as the gun "spitting")
5 - It isn't cheap - as has been mentioned before. The red in those FG pictures alone was $160 for a half gallon. Red is THE most expensive pigment. And that doesn't include the black, gold, and clear...But...and there is always a but...you absolutely cannot beat the outcome.If you plan on doing several cabs, you can usually negotiate a rate with the auto supply place. Or you could trade. A Galaga, for example, can get you a lot of paint
6 - Plus one on the latex comment. Though I don't use it, I HAVE used it. If that is what you can afford, I say go ahead. Our machines are not in arcades where they get lots of abuse. They are generally babied, comparatively. That said, SPRAY it - DO NOT ROLL IT. That might upset some by saying that, but in the end - it usually doesn't come out all that well. And yes, if you spray latex, you will have to reduce it (with water) and it will generally require a larger size tip than what comes with your standard harbor freight gun. Drying times, depending on humidity, etc, are about an hour per coat. You'll need two to three good coats (depending on color). Then you will likely have to wait at least a couple of days between stencils/colors.

Hope this helps.
Cheers!

Great post with lots of good information! The only thing I'd add on the latex comments is to add Floetrol when you spray it. It will improve the flow and levelling of the latex when you shoot it. Floetrol doesn't reduce the paint, though, so you still have to add water.

--Luke

Thanks to both of you. That is such good information. Almost a definitive answer for all who are thinking about painting a cabinet.

I have another question now. I stopped in an O'Reilly's Auto Parts on the way home and found the following product. First I'd like to know if this is real automotive paint and if so does anyone one have any knowledge of it and if it works? It is $25 per quart of any color. The primer and Clear Coat are the same price as well. The can said it was ready in 10 min. The catch, if this will work, is that you are limited to the few colors they offer.

AutoPaint2.JPG

AutoPaint1.JPG

Anyone???

It says that it is lacquer , That is not automotive paint , but Lacquer will work fine if you are looking for something cheaper than automotive paint .

... Not current automotive paint, but it was back in the day. Much easier to work with.

Thanks for those replies. Since I'm not too familiar with lacquer other than knowing the name, if these color options they have work for the machine needing painting would there be a problem using it? Drawbacks ect... The two comments above seem encouraging. I like that it would seem we should have enough left to do multiple machines but if lacquer takes 5 coats to cover then it is probably almost the same $ wise with more steps.

No problem ,easy to use .

Thanks. I ran into my buddy that own the the body shop last night. He isn't a huge fan of lacquer and said it starts to turn chalky after a few years in the sun. He said he used it on cabinets that got a lot of sun through windows and they started loosing their color after 5 years. When I mentioned there were people using latex he cringed and said "use the lacquer" lol. He did still think the shop line auto paint is the way to go if we can afford it. He qualified all his comments with the fact he is somewhat of a paint snob and wants everything to be the best it can be.