(Topic ID: 281860)

Stellar wars solenoid issue

By k20david

3 years ago


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  • 54 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 years ago by k20david
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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There are 54 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.
#1 3 years ago

I recently picked up stellar wars table played it for 2 weeks no issues. The sound doesn’t work it’s stuck on a effect looping , but main issue I’m having the game blew solenoid fuse and now that I’ve installed 2.5 amp 250v slow blow the game turns on with 04 00 with bran new batteries then I have to turn it on and off twice quickly to get it working. I can start game as soon the ball hits a target or bumper the solenoids engage so the kicker goes off and once it does this the flippers die out and nothing works on play field it goes into game over mode right away. Not sure if this is a power issue. I ordered sound rom chips hopefully that works and I also ordered cpu chip kit for stellar wars maybe it will help

#2 3 years ago

The game going into 04 mode usually represents a battery or battery corrosion to the board issue. Additionally when funky things start happening with the game, it sometimes indicates a problem with your 40 pin. Instead of spending a lot of money guessing, I'd suggest to just buy a new MPU board for 300. If your lucky, it could possibly fix your sound issue too.

#3 3 years ago

Da-Shaker Found a refurbished MPU board system 4 for 180. I will pick this up since its hard enough to find parts for this game being 41 years old. hopefully it will fix the issues I am having. Thanks for the quick reply and information much appreciated.

I posted a video of how my machine is acting up.

#4 3 years ago

I'm guessing it's blowing another fuse at the end?

#5 3 years ago

Da-Shaker Only solenoid fuse blows.

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#6 3 years ago

I had a Gorgar that started in 04 mode for years. It wasn't a big deal, because I could turn it on and off, this would fix the problem. I believe when I replaced the battery holder with one that is detached from the board, fixed the 04 mode issue
I couldn't hear any sound, but it looked as if it was playing ok and possibly blowing a fuse? If the fuse is the reason why the game stops playing, it could be due to a plunger jamming up inside a coil. Check and make sure your plungers are moving freely. You could also have a mushroomed plunger that is creating drag inside the coil, causing the fuse to blow

#7 3 years ago

Also check and see if any of the coils are staying on. Listen for a humming noise or the smell of smoke.

#8 3 years ago

And get that sound board fixed!! Stellar Wars has awesome sounds!

#9 3 years ago

Sound board-
Unplug all of your connections on the top right board and plug them back in (power off). Turn back on and listen for any changes in sound. I believe this is your sound board. Sometimes you have a loose connection or old solder joints. You can also rock the connections back and forth while game is in play and listen for any changes

#10 3 years ago
Quoted from JethroP:

And get that sound board fixed!! Stellar Wars has awesome sounds!

Yes, I really enjoyed this game when I had it.

#11 3 years ago

Da-Shaker all coils move freely and when I plug in sound board there is just a slight hum and when I hit the diag switch that’s when the sound effect is stuck. Is it possible something to do with coin door blowing that fuse maybe if the tilt switch stuck on open. Or coin lockout coil

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#12 3 years ago

JethroP When I bought machine I knew sound didn’t work but after I played a few times I quickly searched to see how it’s supposed to sound I agree the sounds this machine makes are awesome.

#13 3 years ago

Also I’m curious what is this ball meant for tilt ?

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#14 3 years ago

Tilt switch appears ok.
Sometimes the ground wire can cause solenoid fuses to blow. Make sure it looks good and there should be one ground wire that runs from the cabinet and into the backbox. Which then screws to the bottom inside of the back box

#15 3 years ago
Quoted from k20david:

Also I’m curious what is this ball meant for tilt ?
[quoted image]

Yes, it's another tilt. Your game is popping fuses and not tilting. Should be good there

The only other thing I have to offer, is check your wiring to all the coils. Make sure they aren't touching each other. Also, is there a specific coil that blows the fuse?

#16 3 years ago

Check again that no coils are stuck on. I believe it's normal for the coin lock out to be on, everything else should be off

#17 3 years ago

Da-Shaker ground is good, basically anything that has coil on play field I hit and game resets all targets pop up and it try’s to pop ball to replay meanwhile the ball still on play field. None of the coils are stuck I checked all it’s after a certain amount of times I hit them the game cuts out. Maybe it’s not drawing enough power causing coils to reset or the fuse I put in is just no good.

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#18 3 years ago

Da-Shaker also that ball for tilt I may have been curious and thought it was just an extra ball and put on play field to try it out since it’s smaller I didn’t know what it was at the time. Maybe that caused damage ?

#19 3 years ago

So when the ball is in the playfied, the game continues to try and kick out another ball onto the shooter lane?

#21 3 years ago

If so, sounds like you have a stuck rollover switch in your eject hole, under the trough. Lift the playfied and make sure the rollover switch has enough gap and not touching after the ball passes

#22 3 years ago
Quoted from k20david:

trk12fire also that ball for tilt I may have been curious and thought it was just an extra ball and put on play field to try it out since it’s smaller I didn’t know what it was at the time. Maybe that caused damage ?

Probably not. It works as a tilt if someone wants to pick up the machine. There's a least 3 tilts on you game

#23 3 years ago

The battery on my phone is dieing. Good luck. I'll check on you later. There are people with way more experience than me. Maybe they'll chime in.

#24 3 years ago

Da-Shaker I notice the rollover switch is making contact constantly.

#25 3 years ago
Quoted from k20david:

I notice the rollover switch is making contact constantly.

As Da-Shaker stated, that is a problem. Maybe not the only problem, but fix that one. That switch should only make contact when the ball is resting in the outhole.

#26 3 years ago
Quoted from k20david:

trk12fire Found a refurbished MPU board system 4 for 180. I will pick this up since its hard enough to find parts for this game being 41 years old. .

I wouldn't buy a board yet, especially an old system 4. If you do get a board you should buy new. They come with a MPU and driver board in one. Kills two birds, one stone. Fix the playfied issues first.

#27 3 years ago

Additionally, since you have a system 4. Your sound board should be inside the cabinet on the left side, not in the backbox like I said earlier. Try reseating the connections that attach to the board, to help your sound issue.

#28 3 years ago

Da-Shaker JethroP i carefully was able to bend the contact and the game plays how it should no more strange things happening. On to fixing the sound I removed all the plugs on sound board under play field and still noting could the Roms possible be the issue I wiggle the connections and nothing.

#29 3 years ago

Da-Shaker

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#30 3 years ago
Quoted from k20david:

trk12fire jethrop i carefully was able to bend the contact and the game plays how it should no more strange things happening.

Swweettt!
No more fuses popping?

Roms can definitely be an issue. Wiggle connections and push on sound board chips while the game is playing first. Listen for any changes to sound. If nothing, I'd recommend to remove the board and reflow solder to to the back of connection solder joints. If still nothing, replace rom and hopefully the rom chips are socketed, so you don't have to solder.
When soldering, make sure you don't cross contaminate solder joints.

#31 3 years ago

Looks like your sound rom is socketed.
Oh, you did try to turn up the volume correct, inside the cabinet? And the top right dial on the board is a volume adjuster too, I believe

#32 3 years ago

Actually, that might be your tester button and the other volume dial might be in the middle of the board

#33 3 years ago

Then if the rom doesn't work, replace all your capacitors and cross fingers.

#34 3 years ago

I would definitely change all the electrolytic caps on the sound board and reflow the pin connectors, and clean/replace the volume pot before replacing any chips.

Hard to tell in your pics, but the large blue cap appears to be bulging at the end.

Several of your board chips are socketed, including the game chip. You could carefully remove and replace to reseat them.

#35 3 years ago

I don't know if it's normal, but it appears you have a resistor that's at a 45 deg angle soldered to a chip area. Look towards the left side of your board in the middle, next to the other 2 chips. Maybe do a little research on that, check and see if that's correct.

#36 3 years ago

Is this a bent pin? High def pics in indirect sunlight would help.

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#37 3 years ago

I don't think so. Looks like it's soldered to the board, hard to tell. Usually bent pins come from people removing a socketed chip and then putting it back in. Sometimes all the legs don't get seated well and causes a bent leg or pin.

#38 3 years ago

Hard to tell in your pics, but the large blue cap appears to be bulging at the end.
blockquote>

Is the 3rd silver cap bulging, upper right side?

#39 3 years ago

Da-Shaker JethroP i will have to check once I’m off work and grab a better picture in sunlight

#40 3 years ago

Da-Shaker JethroP

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#41 3 years ago

JethroP Da-Shaker thank you guys for helping me get my machine back working again played a solid hour after I got back from work. New high score now to figure out the sound.

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#42 3 years ago

I would continue with previous recommendations. Additionally your 4th and 5th photo, you might have some corrosion in the upper left corner. I'd use a razor blade and draw a line between the two solder joints to make sure they don't touch.

#43 3 years ago
Quoted from k20david:

jethrop trk12fire thank you guys for helping me get my machine back working again played a solid hour after I got back from work. New high score now to figure out the sound.
[quoted image]

Looks like it's in really nice condition. Congrats, mine was beat up, but played well. Especially after a nice clean/wax job and 1 drop of 3&1 oil on the spinners.

#44 3 years ago

My guess is you'll have good luck with the rom chip. Be careful pulling them in and out. Keep us posted

#45 3 years ago

Da-Shaker thanks the guy I picked it up from is a graphic designer and redid the whole outside cabinet. Original would have been nice but he said the outside was thrashed. Waiting patiently for the roms to be delivered. I will try removing those 2 joins later on if the chip doesn’t fix issue.

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#46 3 years ago

I'm still betting on the caps and the volume pot. Did you try cleaning the pot with contact cleaner? Maybe only a temporary solution, but it's likely dirty. Also, this cap pictured looks bulging. Regardless, the caps are 41 years old and have all outlived their life expectancy.

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#47 3 years ago
Quoted from k20david:

trk12fire thanks the guy I picked it up from is a graphic designer and redid the whole outside cabinet. Original would have been nice but he said the outside was thrashed. Waiting patiently for the roms to be delivered. I will try removing those 2 joins later on if the chip doesn’t fix issue.
[quoted image]

NICE!

2 weeks later
#48 3 years ago

any update on the sound problem?

#49 3 years ago

JethroP Unfortunately not I have ordered a bran new sound board that I found so everything changed on it capacitors etc that’s coming within a few weeks. I changed the sound rom didn’t do anything and I also got a new mpu board didn’t change anything either. I will keep that as a spare but for now while I wait I recently put in a led bulb kit, game looks bran new crazy difference.

1 week later
#50 3 years ago

Hey guys I got the sound Working !

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