It's a sys4 so all the boards are plentiful (or get Rottendog if you want brand new).

Flipper parts are available, or you can retrofit if you want the new style.

Anything else is probably going to be a used part.

http://www.pbresource.com/rebuildkit.html#KT-WFLIP01

Kit if you are going to keep the old flipper mechs.

First get the machine and see what you actually need.

Sometimes you open the cab and there are 8 extra "dead" boards piled inside.

Can you solder? Do you have a meter?

If the cab is a real mess, it will probably be quicker and cheaper to just get a new one.

You can spend mega hours sanding the old toxic lead paint, filling dents and cracks, repairing joints, replacing bottom panel and priming; or you can get a brand new pre primed cab for under $300.

Tell them you want it cut from MDF faced plywood.

The stuff comes pre primed and is smoother than you can believe - it will be much lighter in weight than an all MDF cab.

(although, maybe you want the heaviest cab you can get - the WOZ guys seem to love it....)

That is a great choice.

Make sure that you sand it outdoors, and you wear a real respirator, not a dust mask. It will say "rated for lead paint removal" and costs about $30.

Do not poison your entire basement or garage with lead paint dust!!!!!!!!

Fill all of your dings and scratches with Bondo just like you used to do with your old car. It feathers out nicely. On a newly painted/decaled cab, even the most tiny scratch stands out like a sore thumb.

Reglue all the loose joints.

Probably have to replace the cab bottom. It is usually made of crummy fiberboard, warped, reeks of mold, beer and cig smoke. Cut hole for larger speaker before you install it. (on games like MM, move speaker hole so larger speaker does not interfere with trolls).

You can router out the lips to get the new bottom installed, or if the cab joints are loose/broken, install bottom panel before fixing them.

Prime with white primer.

Take lots of pictures.

Get a new cabinet.

Just because it is a wide body, it really won't cost you anything more for 5 extra inches.

Totally normal, lol.

No way worth your time.

The glue holding the layers of wood together have been compromised.

You don't want to waste a week of work bondoing, only to have another layer give way during the next temperature or humidly change.

Pretty typical, actually.

The plans for both standard and widebody pin cabs have been floating around the net for years.

Send the plans to the cab shops, it should save you lots of money if they don't have to draw it up again.

Yes, but the clear was screened on, not sprayed like you might see today.

That finish is called alligatoring when it crazes like that.

Not an easy fix.

Here are dimensions of Williams early widebody SS cab:

williams--early-SS-widebody-cabinet-1..jpg

Do a reality check on the numbers, as nothing has been cut from them yet.

It won't start until you replace the 40 pin connector, a few chip sockets, and the cap on the power supply.

http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-bulletproofing-williams-system-6

Glad to hear that they are correct.

I was 99%, but nothing beats a second pair of eyes...