Chances are the new coil will get locked on too, if there's a bad driver or pre-driver transistor that's bad.

When you cut the wires to the coil, did you cut 2 wires that were connected to one of the coil lugs? A lot of time the power wiring daisy-chains from one coil to the next, it's possible you cut the wire carrying the power from the bad coil to the other *now* non-working pop bumper coil.

It looks like the lower left pop bumper goes to Q4 (a TIP120 transistor, but replace with a more durable TIP102 instead), which also has a pre-driver 2N4401 transistor that usually should also be replaced. Is there 2 red wires and 1 red wire with a blue stripe going to the lower left pop bumper coil? I just want to make sure I'm giving you the correct info.

The 2 red wires you cut off the pop bumper--those are the power wires for that coil, and most likely the power wire for the other coil that stopped working after you cut those wires (like i said, the power daisy-chains from coil to coil).

If you splice the 2 red wires together, the other pop bumper should start working again. Don't connect the red/blue wire to anything in the meantime of, course.

Looks like the info in my above post should be accurate--Q4 and Q5 should probably be replaced. I would check those transistors with your dmm before installing the new coil (and potentially frying it if there is a bad transistor or 2).

Can you put up a few pics of the new coil and wiring to it?

It's possible. So exactly which pop bumpers are you having trouble with now?

Also make sure both red wires are attached to the lug of the coil that has the banded side of the diode.

Did you ever replace the pre-driver 2N4401 at Q3? It may have gotten fried when the coils were wired wrong.

Here's another idea: If you ground the tab on Q4, does the coil fire?