A local one here did that sometimes, it seemed like one of the optos being flaky was enough to mess it up

+1 I would start with the opt that is behind the backboard on that ramp.

I could be 100% wrong but I don't think it requires the entrance switch to register in order to count the exit switch (for a shot made).

I don't recall ST having node boards. Are you talking about the opto board? If so, you should be able to easily test that by swapping the switches and seeing if the fault moves to the new location (optos themselves) or stays put (the board).

got to hate that sticker on the backglass..

I had the same problem with my pro a while back. It was just a flaky opto that was triggering on vibrations. Only had to replace the one bad opto. Try tapping the ramps and playfield. See if that triggers one of the optos.

all those warp ramps would mean they are getting double scoring like perpetually and an added ball haha, thats crazy. Def think its a flaky/misaligned opto

i know i had a bad opto in the vengeance area that was actually causing flipper hits to register vengeance hits... super lame. You could post this issue in the star trek club thread and maybe get more eyes on it
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topics/user-favorited#/1/57136

Had the same issue with our ST-LE right out of the box!

It was poor workmanship on the IDC Pass-Through Connector going from the main Wiring Harness to the Warp Ramp Opto Board.

Glad you got it figured out. I don't have my pro anymore but remember having more than a few issues with optos. It's a real pain working on that game. So many ramps and plastics.

hocuslocus

Was it a faulty opto in the end or something else? I have the exact same problem, my daughter registered 400+ warps, and I had to shut down the machine as it was triggering like crazy

Thanks

Optos usually aren't the problem. Twist the wires that go to the optos so they don't pick up inductive currents.

Thanks, I'll try that. Although that one opto is a pain to reach, and relatively far away from any other electronics (since it's behind the backboard).

I noticed that it most often triggers when there is heavy rumble (shaker, bumpers), at least when the failure does appear. This make me believe this is more a mechanical issue (opto alignment, connector getting loose) than electrical, but I'll check nonetheless.

Try reseating the connectors on the opto board. Super easy to try before replacing the opto which is a real PITA.

Twisting the wires is super easy to do when reseating these connectors.

I checked yesterday all wires and connectors. It turns out that the main connector from the optoboard to the CPU board was slightly (very very slightly) unseated. The opto cables were fine.

Since I reseated this connector, everything has been running fine, about 30 games so far. No need to dismount the opto and change them, lucky me.

I had this problem crop up today and thanks to this tread it quickly help me resolve it. The connector going to the Opto board seems very loose. I bent the pins and plastic catch a little to make it fit more snug but I think the problem may come back. Vibration from the poppers was causing it to connect/disconnect. I may need to find a more permanent solution.

Try an ever so thin layer of dielectric grease on the header pins. I apply the grease to a q-tip, then wipe on the pins. No need to apply any to the housing side. Works great on those pesky trough connectors and RGB light boards too.

Some people are morally opposed to grease of any kind in pinball games but if you are willing to replace the connector, it cant hurt to try dielectric grease first.

Had trough problems every 50 games or so on AVLE. Reseating the trough connectors would fix it for another 50 games. Applied some dielectric grease and haven’t touched them in 5 years. It works.

You can pick it up at any automotive store or here: Permatex 22058 Dielectric Tune-Up Grease, 3 oz. Tube https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AL8VD2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_D2FJQJM088X9KNB3FZW7