(Topic ID: 216112)

Startrek stern issue. 467 warp ramps WTF

By hocuslocus

4 years ago


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  • 26 posts
  • 12 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 months ago by Schwaggs
  • Topic is favorited by 3 Pinsiders

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#1 4 years ago

I was messing with some stuff yesterday and I heard person playing startrek. Except it was weird because the warp ramp kept going off like a zillion times.
After he moved to a different table I saw he achieved the new high score and hit an insane amount of warp ramps.

I said screw it I'd be back tomorrow to look at it and overnight another highscore was achieved.
I could understand one switch being messed up by a ground fault or short. Two switches (in order to achieve a warp ramp hit) would mean that one of my boards is messed up.

I've seen plenty of issues, but this is one I haven't come across yet.

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#2 4 years ago

A local one here did that sometimes, it seemed like one of the optos being flaky was enough to mess it up

#3 4 years ago

ok, I was messing with the game a bit and it hit the + button in the service menu like 50 times. going to keep checking the manual, not sure If I have a spare or not.

looks like I'm going to need another board, until I fix the old one. let me know if I'm off base in my thinking. gonna swap it out with one of my home games.
edit :(crap doesn't look like most CPU boards are compatible)

Quoted from zacaj:

A local one here did that sometimes, it seemed like one of the optos being flaky was enough to mess it up

It's possible, but they seem to test out fine. unless its an intermittent issue with the switches. The weird thing is it would have to be both switches not just one to cause that. The chances of that happening are pretty slim.

#4 4 years ago
Quoted from zacaj:

A local one here did that sometimes, it seemed like one of the optos being flaky was enough to mess it up

+1 I would start with the opt that is behind the backboard on that ramp.

I could be 100% wrong but I don't think it requires the entrance switch to register in order to count the exit switch (for a shot made).

#5 4 years ago

I don't recall ST having node boards. Are you talking about the opto board? If so, you should be able to easily test that by swapping the switches and seeing if the fault moves to the new location (optos themselves) or stays put (the board).

#6 4 years ago
Quoted from 85vett:

+1 I would start with the opt that is behind the backboard on that ramp.
I could be 100% wrong but I don't think it requires the entrance switch to register in order to count the exit switch (for a shot made).

it's both in order to register a warp hit.

it looks really similar to a node board used in later games. maybe it doesn't behave the same way.

#7 4 years ago

got to hate that sticker on the backglass..

#8 4 years ago

ok, nevermind I was tracing the wrong wires. all sam game switches go back to the CPU board, which is a good thing

it did some weird stuff along time ago where the volume turn up by itself. I thought that was kind of weird, now I know these issues are probably related.

#9 4 years ago

played 5 games and the issue never returned soooo... these are by far the worst most frustrating problems to have, intermittent issues.

I have the same thing on my GOT, I was finally able to track it down after it happened for the 4th time. Everything on the lower playfield went dark and the lights on the shields were dim. Any vibrations turned everything back on, luckily it happened again yesterday and I found the CN3 connector on node 8 wasn't making solid contact 100% of the time. At least the RJ12 connector can be replaced.

#10 4 years ago

I had the same problem with my pro a while back. It was just a flaky opto that was triggering on vibrations. Only had to replace the one bad opto. Try tapping the ramps and playfield. See if that triggers one of the optos.

#11 4 years ago

all those warp ramps would mean they are getting double scoring like perpetually and an added ball haha, thats crazy. Def think its a flaky/misaligned opto

#12 4 years ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

I had the same problem with my pro a while back. It was just a flaky opto that was triggering on vibrations. Only had to replace the one bad opto. Try tapping the ramps and playfield. See if that triggers one of the optos.

ok, I'll definitely recheck it. Do you remember which one you had the issue with by chance. Guess the thing that confuses me is how is registering a warp hit, I'll have to double check tomorrow but I could of sworn both needed to be hit for that to happen.

I checked the manual to see if there was anything in common as far as ground return or the opto board used and there wasn't.

#13 4 years ago

i know i had a bad opto in the vengeance area that was actually causing flipper hits to register vengeance hits... super lame. You could post this issue in the star trek club thread and maybe get more eyes on it
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topics/user-favorited#/1/57136

#14 4 years ago

Had the same issue with our ST-LE right out of the box!

It was poor workmanship on the IDC Pass-Through Connector going from the main Wiring Harness to the Warp Ramp Opto Board.

#15 4 years ago
Quoted from InfiniteLives:

i know i had a bad opto in the vengeance area that was actually causing flipper hits to register vengeance hits... super lame. You could post this issue in the star trek club thread and maybe get more eyes on it
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topics/user-favorited#/1/57136

Quoted from 85vett:

+1 I would start with the opt that is behind the backboard on that ramp.

ok never mind all you guys were right, it is the back one that registers warp hits. I've been going about this thinking they both needed to be hit ( really threw me off, I couldn't find any commonalities besides the main board).

I have several spare opto's so it shouldn't be a problem to replace those affected one/s.

the help is much appreciated.

#16 4 years ago

Glad you got it figured out. I don't have my pro anymore but remember having more than a few issues with optos. It's a real pain working on that game. So many ramps and plastics.

2 years later
#17 1 year ago

hocuslocus

Was it a faulty opto in the end or something else? I have the exact same problem, my daughter registered 400+ warps, and I had to shut down the machine as it was triggering like crazy

Thanks

#18 1 year ago

Optos usually aren't the problem. Twist the wires that go to the optos so they don't pick up inductive currents.

#19 1 year ago

Thanks, I'll try that. Although that one opto is a pain to reach, and relatively far away from any other electronics (since it's behind the backboard).

I noticed that it most often triggers when there is heavy rumble (shaker, bumpers), at least when the failure does appear. This make me believe this is more a mechanical issue (opto alignment, connector getting loose) than electrical, but I'll check nonetheless.

#20 1 year ago
Quoted from Ashram56:

Thanks, I'll try that. Although that one opto is a pain to reach, and relatively far away from any other electronics (since it's behind the backboard).
I noticed that it most often triggers when there is heavy rumble (shaker, bumpers), at least when the failure does appear. This make me believe this is more a mechanical issue (opto alignment, connector getting loose) than electrical, but I'll check nonetheless.

Try reseating the connectors on the opto board. Super easy to try before replacing the opto which is a real PITA.

#21 1 year ago

WoF had a similar ramp count problem and it was Was the Opto board not the Optos. On the WoF Opto board you could just reflow the connector pins.

#22 1 year ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

Try reseating the connectors on the opto board. Super easy to try before replacing the opto which is a real PITA.

Twisting the wires is super easy to do when reseating these connectors.

#23 1 year ago

I checked yesterday all wires and connectors. It turns out that the main connector from the optoboard to the CPU board was slightly (very very slightly) unseated. The opto cables were fine.

Since I reseated this connector, everything has been running fine, about 30 games so far. No need to dismount the opto and change them, lucky me.

2 months later
#24 1 year ago
Quoted from Ashram56:

I checked yesterday all wires and connectors. It turns out that the main connector from the optoboard to the CPU board was slightly (very very slightly) unseated. The opto cables were fine.
Since I reseated this connector, everything has been running fine, about 30 games so far. No need to dismount the opto and change them, lucky me.

I actually had the same exact problem pop up again after all this time. No issues with the optos themselves.
Surprisingly I found it in the same exact spot you did (I don't think mine was unseated though). Going to repin those two connections tomorrow. Not sure what the deal is with those stern tin pins. I've had to replace several of them so far for various connectivity issues. (Elvira, Deadpool, two different places on BM66, GB, GOTG and now Star trek).

It's worked every time. Might be the tension of the pin... not sure.

11 months later
#25 7 months ago

I had this problem crop up today and thanks to this tread it quickly help me resolve it. The connector going to the Opto board seems very loose. I bent the pins and plastic catch a little to make it fit more snug but I think the problem may come back. Vibration from the poppers was causing it to connect/disconnect. I may need to find a more permanent solution.

#26 7 months ago

Try an ever so thin layer of dielectric grease on the header pins. I apply the grease to a q-tip, then wipe on the pins. No need to apply any to the housing side. Works great on those pesky trough connectors and RGB light boards too.

Some people are morally opposed to grease of any kind in pinball games but if you are willing to replace the connector, it cant hurt to try dielectric grease first.

Had trough problems every 50 games or so on AVLE. Reseating the trough connectors would fix it for another 50 games. Applied some dielectric grease and haven’t touched them in 5 years. It works.

You can pick it up at any automotive store or here: Permatex 22058 Dielectric Tune-Up Grease, 3 oz. Tube amazon.com link »

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