Serial number in place! Thanks leckmeck

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I need to make an order with PBR for playfield stuff. I've been focused on the cabinet for over a year now (which is ridiculous!) so I haven't made any more specific progress on the playfield. I've been considering getting a tumbler - I'm probably at the perfect moment to tumble a bunch of parts before reassembling.

I'm clear-coating the cabinet tonight with Polycrilic, to lock in the stencils. So the cabinet should be done after this.

I sanded down the rails and got them mostly reattached. I spent some time polishing up the nails first.

To get the nails in, I started them gently with a hammer, and then switched to a clamp to seat them. It worked really well on the upper nails, but my clamp isn’t deep enough to reach the lower set of nails, so I plan to get a $10 deep c clamp from harbor freight this weekend. It’s supposed to be good for pushing down popped inserts, too, which is needed on my new Firepower.

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The coin door is in nice shape overall. I’m wondering if I could gain anything by progressively sanding it as I did with the rails. Could that help to even out the areas that are discolored or pitted? Or would I just blow through the plating?

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I've made some modest progress since I last wrote. Work became super busy but has calmed back down a bit.

My Pinball Resource order is arriving tomorrow - once that arrives, I'll be ready to get this thing all reassembled. For now, I have the motor board back in the cabinet, the head reassembled, and I've been polishing and reattaching the hardware.

I made at least one fumble in my cabinet work. The "ribs" (or cross-members) in the bottom of the cabinet have threaded receivers that accept the 3 large bolts through the motor board. From the factory, those receivers align perfectly with the holes/bolts in the motor board. But mine no longer line up. When I re-glued the ribs into the cabinet, I should have bolted in the motor board to force alignment between the motor board and the ribs. As it stands, I can mount the motor board with the center bolt, but the front and rear bolts don't align.

I guess my options are: (1) shoot some wood screws as a substitute for the front and rear bolts, and call it a day; (2) try to find replacement anchors and install those in the ribs to align with the motor board; or (3) drill new holes in the motor board to align with the anchors as they're positioned. I'm actually not sure if (3) would even work - one of the anchors might be under the transformer. Anyway, it's an annoying setback but obviously won't matter much once the game is reassembled. I just don't want the motor board to rip itself loose when the game is tilted up someday in the future.

One other thing I am worrying about: When I rebuilt the "neck" or "scarf" piece, I pulled out the long staples and instead used wood glue to hold the 4 wood pieces together. Before I painted the neck, I accidentally dropped it on my basement floor and it broke apart at the glue joints. I reglued it and proceeded with bondo/primer/paint. It's fine now, but it's not holding the weight of the head. I wish I'd driven some nails or screws through it. I am wondering if the neck might break apart again when I bolt the head down to it. So I'm considering cheating by putting some wood in the empty space within the neck piece, i.e. a platform to relieve some of the weight/pressure from the head off the scarf piece. I know this is a little neurotic, but I would hate to lose momentum here by having the scarf break apart.

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That's a good idea. I think the glue joints could still crack, but presumably the brackets would increase the pressure threshold at which the glue would fail.

Thanks Steve. That would definitely be the comprehensive way to do it. And you have a point that it could be surgical. I am dragging my feet at re-doing the spray paint and clear coat, though. I think I will take the best preventative measures I can (i.e. L brackets and perhaps a support podium inside the neck) and then if the neck *still* cracks, I'll go ahead and fully re-do it with countersunk screws.

Would you say there is stress on the pedestal joints…during vigorous English? Those forces seem sympathetic to the glue joints … =)

Santa Claus flew in from Poughkeepsie...what a happy sight!

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That was my thought as well. My existing door looks nice, but nothing will ever look like the replica. Plus, the door on my Gottlieb Melody is in bad shape. So 2001's door will be switched over to Add-a-Ball duty.

L brackets installed on the inside of the neck/pedestal. Thanks @Billc479, @Steve_in_Escalon, and @jrpinball. If this can't withstand my nudging, shame on me.

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Working on the coin door. I'm cleaning all the interior parts and noticing that my Jack In The Box has nicer-looking silver-colored hardware inside the door than the door that came with 2001. What started as "reassembling the 2001" is about to become taking apart 3 different coin doors. Here is the new replica door in progress:

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here is the original 2001 door, which unfortunately is lacking some coin-return hardware that I might need to scavenge from elsewhere:
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Here is the JITB door:
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And here is the Melody door:
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I made my order with Pinball Resource by email, after I kept getting busy signals on the phone. I worked with Jimmy and he was very helpful. In the past I've worked with Steve on the phone - he is super helpful too and full of pinball lore.

One thing I hadn't realized is that PBR will install special switch faces (like the four center targets in 2001) on switch bodies for $1 apiece. That was a relief because I don't have an arbor press and was not sure how I would handle that rivet step. Here is the list of parts I emailed, in case it's useful to anyone going forward. PBR is an incredible institution - I can't believe how many of these bespoke parts they're able to source...all shipped COD:

Legs and feet-------------------------------------------------
(4) Legs - 31 inch #LEG-31CA
(4) screw-in feet for legs
(8) leg bolts

Coin Door Parts-----------------------------------------------
Coin door - GTB-D10066A
(4) screws for coin door - HDW-1032-1/4B
(2) Reject Rod A4386A
(2) Retaining Ring CRING38
Push Button A4524A
(2) Door Hole Plug A7478A 
(4) Retaining Ring CRING14

Flipper Parts---------------------------------------------------
Flipper bats - A11242-3A
Flipper mini kit for 10/69-7/76 - KT-GFLIP02M 

Shooter Parts--------------------------------------------------
Shooter trim plate GTB-A8831
Shooter barrel spring GTB-A347
Eyelet for shooter GTB-A17596

Playfield Parts-------------------------------------------------
2001 Rubber kit
(35) posts - GTB-C11561
(2) Bumper skirt A1217Y Yellow  $1.25 x 2
(2) white stand up targets for upper playfield - GTB-25460+W
(4) circle stand up 4x Target face GTB-A9383B  
(4) switch assemblies GTB-25460
(2) Gottlieb® White Bumper Body  Color:  Yellow A-10436 
(2) Pop bumper caps - '100 Points When Lit' In Blue  A-11426    
(2) pop bumper rod/ring assemblies #a4754
(2) pop bumper metal yoke - A12149
(2) pop bumper fiber yoke - A2662
(2) pop bumper plungers - A2663
(2) pop bumper lamp sockets - GTB-131
(10) coil sleeves - Gottlieb

LOCKS-------------------------------------------------------
Coin door lock
Backbox lock (keyed together with coin door lock)

Miscellaneous-----------------------------------------------
(1) Ball In Play Card - A9995
(6) pinballs
(4) Rubber nail-in feet for back of 2001 cabinet
(4) backbox bolts HDW-3/8X3-3/4
(4) backbox bolt washers HDW-3/8FEN-WA
(3) FLX Flexstone
Cleaning device for bulb sockets, like an eraser

A few pics. It’s far from done as the playfield is now looking very rough compared to the rest! But I’m happy with how the cab has turned out.

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Yep JR - Uncle Sam built the house back when basements were brick.

Thank you for bumping this thread!

I do plan to renovate the playfield, although I am experiencing scope paralysis. Ideally I would fill in some chips (esp near the pops) and touch up the paint I’m those areas, then clear-coat. I have lots of new playfield parts ready to put on. But I’m freshly nervous about the paint and CC steps. It’s really nice having the cabinet done. I need to get my nerve back up to start again. And I need to figure out whether and how to clear coat- I did most of the paint work on the cabinet in and around my house, and would not do so with auto clear coat.

Also, I was lucky enough to find a Firepower last summer that needed gobs of electrical work -that kept me busy until Christmas- and a Centigrade 37 in February that needs light work throughout to get running right. So, 2001 has been in a happy holding pattern.