answer to Your question:
Solder-Lug on S-Relay-Switch having wire-GR-RED, green-red soldered-on to Solder-Lug on SB-Relay-Switch having wire-GR-RED, green-red soldered-on - set permanent.
Solder-Lug on S-Relay-Switch having wire-RED-WH, red-white soldered-on to Solder-Lug on SB-Relay-Switch having wire-RED-WH, red-white soldered-on - set permanent.
It is not pleasing when I change the strategy of my approach to the problem - but my changing the strategy (most likely) makes testing easyer for You: See my JPG "drawn orange" are two Jumper-Wires. Toggle-off the pin, unplug main power cord (Safety Reasons) - clip-on the Jumper-Wires, lay the free ends of the Jumper-Wires on wood (not touching each other, not touching metal) near the Score-Motor. Ask a friend for help - plug-in, toggle-on - Your friend shall press the Start-Button while You are ready to put the free ends of the two Jumper-Wires put-together / having contact - as the friend presses the Start-Button the Score-Motor starts to run AND YOU NOW put the free ends of the two Jumper-Wires together - keep-on - the Score-Motor runs and runs - do the Score-Drums in the Backbox reset ?
I do have the theory "Switch on SB-Relay (actuating / beeing actuated) does not let current flow to the Sore-Motor" - and to check my theory the " 'drawn orange', text above, friend helping" approach is less complicated than using safety-pins for to mount Jumper-Wires.0Snow-Queen-Work-10 (resized).jpg
So when You do that "drawn orange" manipulation when starting a game - do the Score-Drums reset ? Greetings Rolf