Well I removed it and replaced the bulb but I cannot get it back together. It is not close enough for the little white tip to depress the actuator on the switch. Comes very close but the switch itself does not actuate. Is there some kind of trick that I am missing?
The little white tab comes just close enough to meet the actuator tab on the switch but it does not depress it
THANK YOU ALL. The video was very helpful. Was ready to buy a new switch and still might if I can find it. Marco is out of stock. The situation that I am encountering is happening even without a bulb of any type in the socket so I am not sure it is that. I’ll frock around with it some more. Good to know I’m not the only newb having issues!! Thanks again fellas
Quoted from GPS:Was ready to buy a new switch and still might if I can find it.
https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PBL-100-0094-00
LTG : )
Thank you Lloyd. Forgot about them. Found it at Cointaker along with some blades. The LED is proving to add to the difficulty but even without it is a b.
the new style switch seems like it is a major improvement and hence that is what I will do. Thank you all yet once again.
That switch will probably work. It's a Stern switch. If you want a Bally/Williams switch then the switch you want is a "-16". Do not confuse with a "-1". The "START" is straight on the "-1". It's slanted (italic) on the "-16".
https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-start-button-20-9663-16.html
Hopefully no one takes this the wrong way, but I'm going to say the person that made the video is trying to sell switches.
Do any of you really think that Bally/Williams would have put switch assemblies in 100s of thousands of games for over a decade, all of which were designed to be installed on location if a field service tech couldn't replace the START lamp without having a special tool?
Are they tight fitting? Yes. Are they supposed to be? Yes. Why, because they were designed to work 10's of thousands of times without breaking.
GPS your switch assembly is likely fine, put an incandescent lamp in it and press on.
The image below is the exact same switch assembly from my previous post; the plastic parts were all cleaned with simple green, the metal parts (brass terminals and spring) were put in my parts tumbler, the lamp and paper "START" Label were replaced; the switch was also replaced with a new once since it was original to the machine, had corroded terminals, and the decision was made before restoration began that ALL mechanical switches were being replaced with new ones.
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Hopkins, MN
Edmonton, AB