(Topic ID: 171396)

Start Problem -1976 Chicago Coin Hollywood Pinball


By RichC

2 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 45 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by RichC
  • No one calls this topic a favorite

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 22 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

IMG_1215 (resized).JPG
IMG_1212 (resized).JPG
Red Wire (resized).jpg
0Cinema-Work-4 (resized).jpg
IMG_1210 (resized).JPG
IMG_1208 (resized).JPG
IMG_1207 (resized).JPG
IMG_1206 (resized).JPG
IMG_1002 (resized).JPG
0Cinema-Work-3 (resized).jpg
0Cinema-Work-2 (resized).jpg
1 (resized).JPG
0Cinema-pinside-Replay-Counter-Work1 (resized).jpg
credits (resized).jpg
0Cinema-Work-1 (resized).jpg
coin (resized).jpg

#1 2 years ago

Hello,

Have a beautfiful Chicago Coin Hollywood Pinball machine. It lights up when you turn it on, and click the left flipper. But then I can't get it to start playing. it will accept credits and register them on the backglass, but only if I first nudge the motor cam to make it do a spin. Then it accepts coins and they register, 1 and two player light light up change, as well. One thing I know that's wrong is there is a red wire disconnected near the coin door (pic below). Whatever starts this machine is not engaging for some reason. Other thing I noticed is the leads to the play counter are cut off, but I don't think that effects play. Is there a way to bypass the coin door? Or put it in a Free play mode, or any way to manually engage a reset of the game. I have a feeling all wheels contacts behind the back glass were rotated manually etc. Hoping there is a way to get it back to working order. When I bought it I was told it fully worked, but then stopped working after being moved. All wires are connected, and all blades off the relays look to have a small amount of space between them. I'm sure t is something simple, but I just don't know where to start.... Scores all reset to 0 as well.

pin2 (resized).jpg

pin1 (resized).jpg

pin3 (resized).JPG

pin4 (resized).JPG

pin5 (resized).JPG

#2 2 years ago

Did you see it work? There appears to be some rewiring on the main motor (all of the white wires).

If you saw it work, I would start be re-seating all of the 'jones plugs'. Clean them up first if they show signs of dirt/grease. Be careful - Chicago Coin parts are quite cheap and fragile. I've broken my share of tabs on the female end of these by trying to slightly bend them back into location.

#3 2 years ago

You will need the schematic to find the broken wire contacts.
chk the coin switches for proper operation

#4 2 years ago

I did not see it work. I just went with the assumption that it had a loose wire or something somewhere. I will look at the white wires to see if there is something obvious. Any idea where I can get the schematic. This is my first Pinball machine, so sorry if I don't know all the lingo yet, what are the Jones plugs? Thanks so much for your replys, I'll start looking again for something that's not right.... Thanks Rich!!!!

#5 2 years ago

On average, machines of this vintage are not easy to get going if they are not working. I would recommend starting at the beginning. Read and learn before you make it worse.

http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index.htm

http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=EM_Repair

#6 2 years ago

So all the white wires are connected and soldered up nicely to the motor. Looks like each relay works, if you allow it to make contact the motor spins. I am assuming there is something that needs to be put into motion to allow a game to start, this I can't find. Credits add when you drop in a coin, game lights up and resets the scoreboard, but can't seem to get a ball to move to the plunger, and get everything up and running. credit button changes it to player 2 etc... seems so close to getting going!!!

#7 2 years ago

Hi RichC
great, ipdb has the stuff: http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=1214 --- may want to do a "right-hand-side Mouse-Click" on SCHEMATIC DIAGRAM --- then "Save target as ..." - Make Yourself a copy.

I am irritated - You are told "did run - but after beeing moved: no more", OK --- You cannot start a game (post-1) BUT "The Score-Drums / Scores all reset to Zero as well" - how come when the pin does not start ?

Can You open the upper box (Backbox) from behind - take a Score-Reel out of the holding and manually put some points on the drum (?).

Here on page-17 (ori-15) http://mirror2.ipdb.org/files/1214/Chicago_Coin_1976_Hollywood_Parts_Catalog.pdf I see "(A) Credit Reset Relay" and I see "(B) Start-Relay" and I see "(C) Reset Relay".

First: Toggle-off the pin, toggle-on - then manually press the armature / anchor-plate of "(A)" - what happens ?
If nothing happens: Manually press the armature of "(B)" - what happens ?
If nothing happens: Manually press the armature of "(C)" - what happens ? Greetings Rolf

#8 2 years ago

Thanks Rolf, I will try the sequence below and see what happens.... Thanks for your help and pointing me to the schematic!!!!

#9 2 years ago

So I tried the above sequence Rolf mentioned and also manually adjust the scoreboard to 660. When I did a credit reset clicking the relay manually the motor spun, score reset, everything looks ready to go, but then no flippers, no ball shooting to the plunger. Same thing happened when manually clicking Start Relay, and also Reset Relay. In fact all of the relays make contact and make the machine come alive for a few seconds, then if you try to press the credit button and get playing it does nothing.... A few times the reset relay got stuck and the motor continued to just run, this made most bumpers sensor on the board electrified, flippers seemed like they want to flip but didn't seem like anything was right about that relay sticking on..... I unstuck it and back to a nice lit up play field but no play.... Any ideas any help appreciated.... I just don't know where to go with this. It seems like everything works, but not all together like it needs to..... So frustrating, really thought I would have this running but I'm at a very stuck point in my next steps....

#10 2 years ago

Hi RichC
You must be patient. I believe "people said it was running - after beeing moved: No running". When moving a machine: We take apart Backbox and Cabinet , take away the legs. We turn around - maybe put "top-down what used to be horizontal" - in the end we plug-in the jacks (called Jones-Plugs) to connect the playfield with the Backbox - to connect the Cabinet (lower part of the pin) to the Backbox - we may do this faulty. Maybe some washers , some short pieces of blank wire, just crap was moved around in the pin - NOW beeing in a place making faulty contacts.

I assume: Not only me but "many pinsiders helping" want to walk through the standard procedure - plug-in, toggle-on, press left flipper button and the pin lights up. Then starting a game by pressing the Start-Button in the front near the Coin-Door - then watch the reset etc. .

The very first problem is the problem to be solved - we may try to do some (helping) manipulation - the "helping manipulations" I suggested were "manually activate the Credit-Reset-Relay" - manually activate the Start-Relay.

You succeeded with BOTH - the pin does (at least part of) the reset. OK, the ball is not yet kicked-out - when You NOW do activate these relays again: Maybe the pin wants to start for 2nd player (?).
I suggest: ONLY activate the relay ONCE --- for a new test: Toggle-off the pin - toggle-on again and then activate the Credit-Reset-Relay ONCE (always put some points on a Score-Drum to see how the pin does reset some stuff). Look how the pin does reset - it comes to idle --- locate the Outhole-Relay in the pin - manually activate it --- what happens ? (((The (manipulated) Outhole-Relay should make the Motor run and some more stuff should take place))).
I live in Switzerland, south of Germany - it is midnight - time to go to sleep - till tomorrow, greetings Rolf

#11 2 years ago

Went through the machine again today, and all relays make the motor run for a few seconds. After the motor runs, you can press the credit button, player one player 2 lights up, scores always reset. Credits het removed from the credit wheel. Everything looks to be working together, just not getting that game start where the ball goes to the plunger, and flippers come alive. There must be something not switching on somewhere. i rechecked all the Jones plugs, all connections are good. All fuses are also good...... Maybe a switch stuck on somewhere preventing the game to engage??

Rolf, my main office is in Switzerland, in Geneva. I go there about once a year, love going there, beautiful country!!!

#12 2 years ago

Noticed one of the blades is not touching anything here in the lock relay, is it suppose to? Still can't get this machine to start working.

pin6 (resized).jpg

#13 2 years ago

Hi RichC
again - slow down, be patient. At end of post-10 I suggested and I do it again: Do NOT want to start a TWO-Player-Game - lets stick to the problem "We want to start a 1-player-game, the pin shall reset the Score-Drums in the Backbox, shall reset playfield stuff (dropped Drop-Down-Targets shall be pushed-up), pin shall reset more stuff and then it shall kick-out the ball and give power to flipper-coils.

In some way You can start a game - but then it comes to idle - it does not kick-out the ball.

Think of "way back in time" - an Arcade-Room, many people playing, some 50 pins standing in the Arcade-Room. A thunderstorm happens and a lightning hits the local power-station - a BLACK-OUT. The operator says: Sorry folks - this is the end for today - everybody is going home.

The next morning the operator goes from pin to pin - some have not been played - some have come to an regular end - some have ended "in a 2 player-game the first player was playing ball-2, he has made some Bonus on the Bonus-Ladder, the ball (accidentally) was/is sitting on the playfield in an Eject-Hole" and then the Black-Out ...

The manufacturers made the pins able to "handle such an extraordinary ending of game (game before)".
So lets bring the pin into such an state. Look here http://mirror2.ipdb.org/files/1214/Chicago_Coin_1976_Hollywood_Parts_Catalog.pdf on page-20 (ori-18), toggle-off, unplug the main 110 VAC power cord (Safety Reasons). Manually step on the two coils step here, step there --- in the end have it somewhat "in a middle Position".
Look on page-23 (ori-21) - manually step on the two coils step here, step there --- in the end have it somewhat "in a middle Position". Put some points on the Score-Drums. On the lower-part of the playfield let some Targets drop.

Plug-in, toggle-on, manually press the armature on "Credit-Reset-Relay" and watch - do the Score-Reels reset ? Does the Bonus-Ladder steps down to Zero ? Are the Drop-Down-Targets resetted ?
Does the pin comes to an halt / stop / idle / nothing moves ? THEN manually activate the Outhole-Relay - what happens ? (((Maybe nothing happens - but still the information is important)))

I look at the JPG in post-12 - I "enumerate" from left to right the bades: A, B, C, D, E, F, G, H.
A, D, E, F, G are the stationary blades - the others are the moved blades. Unplug the pin - relay is at rest - press a bit onto the armature - see how the moved blades want to move / travel ? So some Switches want to open - some Switches want to close.
You may have to adjust the stationary blades in the way that after adjusting all works as it wants / is intended, greetings Rolf

P.S.: "Geneva, Switzerland" is nice - I hope You always have time to do some days of vacation, greetings Rolf

#14 2 years ago

We are getting somewhere Rolf!!! I stepped on the Bonus a few times, stepped on the credit reset, did not do anything but run the motor. stepped on the Outhole twice and the pop up targets popped back up, scores also reset. Clicked on Outhole relay, motor runs as usual a few seconds. When the ball made contact with something in the bottom where it shoots out, the chimes started to make noise, sounded like it would work, but then back to not working. I'll go through your scenario again later to see if I can recreate, but could there be a sensor somewhere near where the piball rests that might be stopping this game from working? Do these settings look correct as far as coin settings not being a problem, would switching the jumper to off be better??

coin (resized).jpg

#15 2 years ago

Hi RichC
simple relays (to be seen all over the pin) do have ONE Coil. And then there is another type of "Relay" - Relays of this typ are called "Interlock-Relays" - they have TWO Coils mounted on the housing. Interlock Relays have two stable settings - we call them "Tripped" and "Latched". Look here on a Bally "Night-Rider": http://mirror2.ipdb.org/files/1677/Bally_1976_Night_Rider_Manual.pdf , page-16. See that the "Trip-Coil-Armature has NO Switchblades attached" - the "Latch-Coil-Armature has many Switchblades attached".
In the ipdb-picture we press the "Trip-Coil-Armature" down - so we TRIP the relay so the relay is tripped. And when we press the "Latch-Coil-Armature" sideways to the right: We LATCH the relay so the relay is latched.

When a game ends normal - means the State "Game-Over" is reached and we see "Game-Over" lightet in the Backglass (Backbox): The Game-Over-(Interlock)-Relay has tripped.

Please: Toggle-off, manually trip the Game-Over-Relay sitting in the cabinet - then toggle-on the pin, question: Do You see "Game-Over" lit on the Backglass ? "Start a game AND Watch the Game-Over-Relay - question: during reset - does the Game-Over-Relay LATCH (it should), greetings Rolf

P.S.: Do not forget to properly adjust the stationary Blades on the Lock-Relay so its switches do what they should do.
P.P.S.: Settings look good.

#16 2 years ago

Rolf!!!!! I got the machine going!!! It ended up being the simplest of things. One of the blades on the start relay was not making contact when the machine was running, along with one of the reset relays not making contact as well. I was able to figure it out by seeing what the relay did while on, and seeing that certain blades had no purpose unless manually bent to make contact.... So now just a matter of cleaning the play-field a little, and changing a few bulbs here and there.... Any idea on the voltage of these bulbs? Can I use the LED replacements on a machine like this??? Thanks again for all your help, I feel like I know what to look for now the next time I have an issue. It was very satisfying to get this old machine up and running again!!! Thank You for all your help!!!

#17 2 years ago

Hi RichC
great You found the problem(s). About LED-Lights: Lets look in the ipdb-schematics - the transformer has Output: 30VAC, 12 VAC and 6 VAC. I do not know - but when everybody else does replace in a Williams / Bally / Gottlieb pin the old 6VAC-bulbs with LED --- I'd say: Yes, replace if You want to.

I happen to like to "work" on (PDFs /) JPGs using MS-Paint and paint.net --- not work - but FUN.
I happen to dislike to do some work - and it is not used.
Therefore I show (not needed anymore) an JPG I made to use here "to procede in search" - it is from ipdb-schematics BUT cut and put together some stuff. Not the whole text I was preparing, just --- look at the JPG for 5 seconds - see how "Switch on Start-Relay" and "Switch on Game-Over-Relay" and "Switch on Tilt-Relay" MUST BE CLOSED so You can activate the flipper-bats.
Enjoy the pin, greetings Rolf

0Cinema-Work-1 (resized).jpg

#18 2 years ago

That is great to have...Thank You!!!

RICH

#19 2 years ago

Ok, I guess I am late to the party. Glad someone was able to use the schematics I uploaded to IPDB.

LED's work in this game just fine (I have a few installed in mine - not all, mostly in the areas where damage usually occurs from the heat of the bulbs (pop bumpers, etc)).

Free play is simple - you just jump out the "no credits" switch on the credit unit. You can see which switch opens when the reel hits zero - just jumper it out (I just used a short lead with alligator clips, easy to remove if need be).

#20 2 years ago

Hi John, that sounds great!! And thanks for the info on the lamps.

If you have a chance can you show me a picture of what you mean as far as jumping the switch. I think you mean just clip the bottom 2 wires of one of the 2 switches on the reel together, but I think in my case both switches are closed at this point which may be wrong, and part of my issue.

My main issue right now is I am not sure if the credits reel is in the correct position when showing credits. It also looks like both switches are closed right now, but then the switches will open in what seems to be random locations as the wheel spins when adding coins, like on credit 8 etc.... I am suspecting that the reel might not be in the correct position, and maybe the switches got bent into a permanently closed position, or maybe the cam is suppose to keep one open, at this point I am not sure, because I've never seen it working correctly. Here is a picture of where the credit wheel is now with 14 credits on it. Thanks for your help!!

credits (resized).jpg

#21 2 years ago

Hi
LongJohns thanks for donating to ipdb so we can look at the ipdb-schematics. Please correct me if I "write nonsense in this post".

RichC - I have taken Your picture and manipulated it to "new JPG" shows "2 replays on the counter (visible on the backglass)". Two more steps down and the bottom rod on the wheel opens the "Open-at-Zero-Switch". The other rod is (for me): Stepping up and up and up - the upper rod finally opens an MAX-Switch --- and the MAX-Switch makes the Coin-Door "NO LONGER ACCEPTING COINS".
Please try to step down the Replay-Counter down to Zero - You may have to temporary unscrew "my upper rod".

And setting for "Freeplay": Wind a bare / naked copper wire around the Solder-Lugs on the two Blades on the Bottom-Switch. The lower rod may open the switch --- but You made "connection forever" by wrapping around the bare wire around these two Solder-Lugs, greetings Rolf

0Cinema-pinside-Replay-Counter-Work1 (resized).jpg

#22 2 years ago

OK, thanks, I think I know what you are saying, and I will jump out the bottom switch. Should the top switch in the picture be closed even when no pressure is on it??? On my machine it is always closed. Not sure if it is suppose to be, r if it just got bent that way at one time.....Thanks Rich

#23 2 years ago

Hi Rich
lets look into the ipdb-schematics at "L-1": I see a switch "9th Pos. Limit Sw." - my so-called "Max-Switch" opening when the Replay-Counter has been stepped up so the Operator says: NO MORE Replays on the counter. In the JPG, post-21 the wheel is stepped up - is stepped clockwise - the upper rod finally opens a switch that was closed before.

Lets look in the schematics at "E-24 / F-24" - The "Credit Unit Post Switch" - WHEN OPENED: You well can press the Credit-Button - the "opened switch hinders connection", greetings Rolf
P.S.: As I never have seen the inside of an Chicago Coins pin: I may talk nonsense (?).

#24 2 years ago

I will post a picture(s) of my credit unit sometime tonight or on the weekend that shows the jumper and switches.

What I think Rolf is saying sounds about right (without look at the schematic).

#25 2 years ago
Quoted from RichC:

I will jump out the bottom switch.

1 (resized).JPG
Why not just slightly bend the shorter of the two contacts ( for freeplay) right where it meets the bakelite material to keep then closed at " Zero Position "

Works fine that way.

#26 2 years ago

Thanks guys, makes a lot of sense now. I will jump out the bottom switch and open the top one. Now all I have to do is figure out why when the machine resets it gets stuck in an endless reset loop!!!! Score motor will not stop spinning. Video below if you want to see how it's reacting.

Thanks Rich

#27 2 years ago

Hi Pin-it
Yes, Your version (freeplay) is easy done and works fine - a bit ungainly / uneloquent is: By doing this we actually sneak-in a fault - for a latter owner not to be seen at first glance.
Other people use a short Jumper-Wire with gator-clips, "lazy" is the "wrapping a bare wire around", "sophisticated" is: "solder-on a short wire for permanent connection".
Whatever we do - I like to have a paper-tag there telling: "Set to Freeplay".

Rich, do NOT open the Top-Switch on Replay-Counter - on top of post-23 I wrote (only) part of the truth: When this upper switch is opened by the upper rod: No more Replays will be added when You throw-in coins - BUT You also cannot make Replays by the Score-Drums - as no replays will be added ...

Your video is good - I clearly see "Game-Over" is lit in the Backglass. You then manually do turn a bit the Score-Motor. NOT clear to me is "in what position was the turntable-disc on the motor" (?) AND "how much (how many degrees) is the travel the motor does AFTER manually turned a bit" (?)

I think of two different "cause / explanation" --- to handle the first one is different than "handle the other one". So do not work yet - look in the schematics and look in Your pin and "play some balls watching the Score-Motor" --- and then write about.

Theory: The turntable disc on the Score-Motor has a well defined "Home-Position" (ending a turn, coming to a stop). A playfield-feature needs help of the Score-Motor to make a turn - nice example: The ball hits a target worth 500 points - the 500-point-relay pull-in and calls for help "Score-Motor please make a turn so rods on Your turntable actuate a switch FIVE times (in one turn) so five times 100 points are given". The 500-point-relay drops out at some time BUT the Score-Motor must feed himself electricity to COMPLETE the turn - to turn till HOME-Position is reached. This is done with the "Self-Hold-Switch-A-1 on the Score-Motor".

My "first cause / explanation" is: When the Pin goes into "Game-Over": The Score-Motor does not turn until Home-Position is reached - the motor stops faulty-early. You then push the motor forward to "Home-Position" - well, a wacky theory.

My "second cause / explanation" is: When the Pin goes into "Game-Over": The Score-Motor stops at "Home-Position" - a fault is in the pin - as the Score-Motor should make (after reaching Game-Over) one more turn - fault, fault, fault, it does not --- BUT then You make the Motor to do that needed full turn (Home-Position to Home-Position) - well, I am (also) not happy with this theory.

See my JPG - Home-Position is "marked-green" is at Switch-A-1, Home-Position is "marked-orange" is at Switch-A-1, Home-Position is "marked-red" is at Switch-A-1 --- the Score-Motor in Your Chicago Coins pin is AS GOTTLIEB Score-Motors: 120 degrees symmetrical - a turn (thats what we say) is "turning one third of a revolution".

Watch in Your pin - when "playing": Does the Score-Motor ALWAYS stops at Home-Position ? Especially: Does the Score-Motor stops at Home-Position when reaching "Game-Over", when You then make the manually activating: does the Score-Motor ONLY turns a couple degrees ? OR does it make a turn (120 degrees) ?, greetings Rolf

0Cinema-Work-2 (resized).jpg

#28 2 years ago
Quoted from rolf_martin_062:

I like to have a paper-tag there telling: "Set to Freeplay"

Good idea to label for future owners that may wonder why and how its freeplay is set up.

Another way is put a clean penny [ https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/techfreeplay-setup-courtesy-of-the-us-mint#post-482089 ] between the contacts to achieve freeplay continuity which alters nothing plus its an easy on/off to return it to pay to play. Add a label and your all set.

Quoted from rolf_martin_062:

Rich, do NOT open the Top-Switch on Replay-Counter

Ditto , its not to open till post pushes them to separate.

#29 2 years ago

This is truly a fun game, I have one that we played until the score reels fell apart.. I have not been able to get score reel parts so its in storage until then, if you know where I could get parts I would love to get the game playing again.
Have fun

#30 2 years ago

Ok guys, after a little cleaning tightening, and a lot of playing the machine is resetting itself where you do you not have to switch it on and off to start a game!!!! I am down to one problem where one black and red wire needs to be attached somewhere near the Coin door to make the credit button work and this machine will be 100%!!! I know connecting this wire to the correct place will fix the machine because I touched it to the coin door switch which energized the credit button momentarily, allowing me to press it and start a game. I made a video showing where this wire is and where I can trace it back to. If anyone can tell me where to connect this wire to that would be fantastic!!! Thanks in advance!!!!

#31 2 years ago

Hi Rich
Do You have two Coin-Chutes on the Coin-Door - one is the Center-Coin-Chute and the other is the Right-Coin-Chute. Maybe (maybe) Your wire in question has wire-color-B-R-Black-Red ?
IF (if) it is - well, it should end at Center-Coin-Chute-Switch and also end either at "Score-Motor-Switch-A5" and/or "Make-and-Brake-Switch at Coin Control Relay".
TRY to find all my "marked green stuff" in Your pin, greetings Rolf

0Cinema-Work-3 (resized).jpg

#32 2 years ago

Thanks Rolf, I guess I need to see a picture of where someones red and black wire is connected. I tried connecting the red & black wire to every connection at the Coin door and only one connection makes it work, the red and green looking top wire below. Can't be the right connection though as the wire gets hot and smokes!!! Yikes!!! The connection does make the credit button operate, but not correctly, as attaching it to the top wire in the pic below must be the wrong voltage, lights dim, machine goes a little crazy, scary place for that wire to be!!!

IMG_1002 (resized).JPG

#33 2 years ago

Sorry for not getting pictures - had some things comes up and completely forgot. My bad.

I will check my coin door tonight.

Quoted from ValleyGuy:

This is truly a fun game, I have one that we played until the score reels fell apart.. I have not been able to get score reel parts so its in storage until then, if you know where I could get parts I would love to get the game playing again.
Have fun

Pinball Resource should have the parts you need (parts manual is on IPDB). There are also a couple thread on hear where someone created files so that you can 3D print some of the plastic parts as well and made them available for download.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/3d-printing-chicago-coin-hollywood-score-reel-arm#post-2947759
http://www.thingiverse.com/tmuir12/designs

#34 2 years ago

Ok, checked mine.

Coin door:

Red with green chaser (broken line) goes to the coin lock out coils for the coin mechs - there are 2 wires on the right most coil when looking at the back of the coin door. 1 wires goes to the door plug (I may have added the plug, so yours may not have one). The other wire goes to the coin lock out coil on the left mech. The other wire is solid green on mine, but that looks like it was replaced someitme in the past (again I may have done that). I only took picture of the left coil.

Now there are also orange wires which could look like the red ones - those go the the coin up switch(es)

Credit unit:

top switch is closed and bottom one jumper out.

If you need some more pictures, just me let me know - I will try and be more punctual.

Edit to add: note my credit unit is current at no credits.

IMG_1206 (resized).JPG
IMG_1207 (resized).JPG
IMG_1208 (resized).JPG
IMG_1210 (resized).JPG

#35 2 years ago

Hi Rich
Williams and Bally pins have the Score-Motor built 180 degrees symmetrical. Gottlieb has the "turntable-like disc" Score-Motor 120 degrees symmetrical. When we say "the (Gottlieb) Score-Motor makes a turn" we mean "the turntable makes one third of a revolution - 120 degrees".

Here https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/start-problem-1976-chicago-coin-hollywood-pinball#post-3413212 is a JPG with the "Home-Position means a turn has ended" - see the "marked green Home-Position" - as well as "marked yellow" - as well as "marked red".

In post-10 You write +/- "fault ONLY happens when the Score-Motor stops in ONE, defined Home-Position (either in "green" or in "yellow" or in "red"). Make a paint-mark on the turntable and CHECK this theory.

I still do not know if Your "action with the wooden stick on the Score-Motor" does make the turntable "AAA turning a couple of degrees (1 to 10 degrees) meens completing a turn" or "BBB making the turntable to do a complete turn means turning 120 degrees". (((To fix the AAA is other than to fix the BBB)))

See the "marked orange" Score-Motor Switches" in the JPG - want to investigate on these Switches ? (Also check the Score-Motor-Switch-A1 - the "Self-Hold-Switch on the Score-Motor)

When I do add a "Switch manually to close" I usually choose an area on the frontdoor "painted black***" - here http://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=1214&picno=3280&zoom=1 I see some places. I there drill a hole of "a tenth to an eighth of an inch and simply put a metal rod (threaded rod ?) in there. I push and inside a simple, spare "leaf switch" is actuated.
"Painted black***": When You or a latter owner at some time take away the rod then THIS area is simple to repaint.

Some people use the "Coin-Return push button" - inside the Coin-Door they add a switch actuated by pushing this button.

Whatever You do: MAKE an description to keep.

Maybe (maybe) You can solve the problem by (JPG, marked green) making an permanent Jumper (I assume You do NOT park Your finger for an hour or so on the credit button, do You ?), greetings Rolf

0Cinema-Work-4 (resized).jpg

#36 2 years ago

Thank you LongJohns!!! I jumped out the credit wheel switch, and all is working great!!

I have one question in regards to my red and black wire. I can see it in your picture, but can not see where it gets soldered to. Can you show me a picture of where the red and black wire is soldered? I have put a black arrow over the wire I am in need of connecting in the picture below.

Thank so much!!!!
RICH

Red Wire (resized).jpg

#37 2 years ago

Rolf, thanks again for the suggestions.....

The credit return mechanism, would be a great way for me to add a momentary switch, without ruining the aesthetics of the machine.

Thanks you so much for all your help, I am learning alot!!!

Thanks
RICH

#38 2 years ago

Ok, I will check when I get home where it goes, but if I had to guess right now, it is to the slam switch on the door.

#39 2 years ago

Red and black wire goes no place on mine - was tucked inside the harness (sorry about the crappy picture).

IMG_1212 (resized).JPG

IMG_1215 (resized).JPG

#40 2 years ago

Ok, Thanks LongJohns. Must be the wire to the 10 cent third chute a few people mentioned. I am just going to add a momentary switch to engage the motor while pressing the credit button in the event that the motor lands in the dead spot. Thank you for verifying for me, it gives me a lot of peace of mind knowing that the wire does not really belong anywhere.

Thanks
RICH

#41 2 years ago

Hi Rich
I look at Longjohns second JPG, post-39 - the "weighted switch***" (in the picture on the bottom to the right). On other pins (I am used to) these switches are normally closed --- but I believe to see this as an normally open switch. I also believe to recognize the color of the two wires attached: "green" and "green-yellow" (OK - I use some fantasy). I look in the schematics at 4-B: The "Coil on Tilt-Relay" then wire green-yellow then "Tilt-Sws." then thin wire (no color mentioned) then thick wire - I look around and see "thick wire" has color green.

The "s" in Tilt-Sws." means plural means "several Tilt-Switches (but only one shown in the schematics)".

Want to try: Play a game - have the Coin-Door closed - now BANG with Your fist at the place (outside of the Coin-Door) where this "weighted switch***" is mounted (inside) - question: Are You "rewarded" with an TILT ?

IF (if) "Yes" - Want to try (I cannot guarantee that it works): Unsolder the two wires away from the "weighted switch***" and tape the bare end of the wire-green-yellow - also tape the bare end of wire-green***.
THEN You may try to use THIS "weighted switch*** for Your (workaround, to be mounted, Switch to close manually) NEW Switch (instead of trying to use the "Coin-Return button") ?

Again - I do not know if it works - IF (if) it does work: For sure make a good description of Your "workaround".

"Weighted Switch***": I am used to have them being "Normally Closed" as they usually are "Anti-Cheat Switches" (sluggish words : ) "CUT power of the pin".
"Wire-green***": In the schematics follow this wire all the way to the transformer - see that wire-green*** is "Return-Side of transformer" - IF (if) YOUR "new switch to be added" does have on one side "wire-green***" - well then use the end of unsoldered wire-green*** at the Coin-Door, greetings Rolf

#42 2 years ago

Rolf, thanks for the suggestions. I will let you know how it all turns out.

Thanks
RICH

#43 2 years ago

Hi Rich
in post-41 I FORGOT to mention: You have a "ball way up on the playfield (You play)" - You Bang at the Coin-Door --- are You "rewarded" with a TILT - exactly the same tilt as You get when You shake the pin TOO MUCH (?) --- You loose the ball, yes - but You can play the next ball (?). I call this kind of a tilt "an minor tilt". The other type of TILT I call "severe Tilt" - the pin kind of "shots down / turns-off".

The advice in post-41 (want to use the Coin-Door switch for Your needed NEW switch) may work (depends on "does banging the Coin-Door makes the 'weighted switch***' close long (in time) ENOUGH for Your needed NEW switch to be closed".
Check and doublecheck if You want to reuse the Coin-Door-GREEN-wire, greetings Rolf

#44 2 years ago

I would double check the gaps of the switches on the score motor, especially the double stack one (make and break switches). If the gap is too small it can cause "timing" issues of when the motor turns on/off.

#45 2 years ago

OK guys, the machine is now working 100%. I cleaned and checked the gaps again on the score motor, and the motor now starts in every position when you press the credit button. No need for an extra button, and this machine is now perfect!!!

Next thing I am going to do is replace every bulb behind the back glass, and then seal the backglass so the paint stays good.

Thanks so much for all your help guys!!!!

RICH

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
From: $ 18.00
Apparel - Men
Pinside Shop
$ 189.00
Displays
Boston Pinball Company
$ 12.00
Lighting - Led
Pinball Haus
$ 90.00
Lighting - Under Cabinet
Rock Custom Pinball
$ 7,499.00
Pinball Machine
Little Shop Of Games
$ 369.00
Cabinet - Decals
Mircoplayfields
$ 189.00
Displays
Boston Pinball Company
$ 19.95
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
ULEKstore
$ 79.00
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Super Skill Shot Shop
$ 135.00
Lighting - Led
LED OCD
$ 11.95
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
ULEKstore
$ 16.00
Tools
PinballSolutions.eu
$ 218.00
$ 149.99
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Lighted Pinball Mods
$ 89.99
$ 29.95
Gameroom - Decorations
Pinball Photos
$ 99.99
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Lighted Pinball Mods
From: $ 7.00
Playfield - Protection
Pinball Haus
From: $ 175.00
Gameroom - Decorations
Pinball Photos
$ 69.99
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Lighted Pinball Mods
$ 39.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
The MOD Couple
$ 96.95
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Super Skill Shot Shop
$ 5,799.00
Pinball Machine
Operation Pinball

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside