(Topic ID: 235216)

Starship Troopers: Certain Switches Only Working Intermittently-Some Not Working


By nerdygrrl

1 year ago



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  • Latest reply 1 year ago by nerdygrrl
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#1 1 year ago

Starting over, I was finally able to dig into this myself. I picked up an SST and have been having some switch issues. Some switches are working, some are working intermittently, some are not working at all.

Mini flipper: works intermittently. I installed a new cabinet switch, and reflowed all of the connections up top on the flipper mech and fuse holder and still no luck.

Pops: For the most part not working. The left will intermittently fire when activated. These are all on same column (7). I had bad diode on the center pop which I replaced.

Left Top Lane: This had been working intermittently, but since fixing the diode on the pop it seems to be consistent now. (column 6 and row one same row as left pop).

I replaced all of the diodes on the pops, and lane guides. I have continuity on the pops through the rest f the column to the right ramp enter and exit (latter are working 100% and diodes are A-OK).

When running the switch test the three pops and the left lane are showing closed. Any suggestions on where to look next? I watched Terry B's video and have been reading his writeup on switch matrix issues, but this has me stumped. The pops and left lane are presenting like a diode/downed wire and I have no idea what would be causing the mini flipper to malfunction like that.

#3 1 year ago

Delete, duplicate post

2 weeks later
#4 1 year ago

OK, update, I got a chance to look at it more and it seems to be a signal data issue, any thoughts on what to do here or what would be causing this? I guess I should reflow pins at the board.

Update: So some of the switches we thought weren't working are working intermittently. They don't appear to be connected in anyway, but as of right now, none of the pops were, the mini flipper cuts in and out as does the top left lan and right outlane. I' not sure about teh subway switch, as it's hard t trigger when the game is on.

#5 1 year ago

Can you post a good picture of the CPU board all around the battery holder? The switch matrix input is to the left of the battery holder and if there is battery corrosion there, that would be an issue for sure.

#6 1 year ago

It looks pretty clean to me. Even the solder joints while not great seem ok.

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#7 1 year ago

The board does look good. Probably best to rest all the switches in the switch edge test to see if you can narrow it down to a row or column. If multiple switches register hitting one, then likely a broken wire down that row or column.

#8 1 year ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

The board does look good. Probably best to rest all the switches in the switch edge test to see if you can narrow it down to a row or column. If multiple switches register hitting one, then likely a broken wire down that row or column.

Yeah, that's the thing, with the exception of the pops, the dead switches are in diff columns/rows. I just reflowed the header pins to no avail.

This one really has me scratching my head.My friend and I went through the wiring as best as we could given how tight these harnesses are and came up with nothing. Definitely seems like an inconsistent signal.

#9 1 year ago

Can you list all the non-working switches? Any extra info as this would help.

1 month later
#10 1 year ago

Ok, I was able to dig into this a bit more today. I replaced ALL of the diodes on the switches acting up. I see more consistency with the subway switch and the top left lane (B) switch. That being said, my three pos will not work and the mini flipper is still intermittent.

I should add of all of the diodes I swapped out (three pops, B-U-G and subway switch only the top/center pop was bad). I do get intermittent left pop firing, but the other two are dead (totally switch related). Between the three pops I am getting continuity and the switches down the line are working ok. I am guessing I should trace the wire back from that top left pop and see what that turns up.

#11 1 year ago

Starting over, I was finally able to dig into this myself. A new more reliable and accurate summary.

Mini flipper: works intermittently. I installed a new cabinet switch, and reflowed all of the connections up top on the flipper mech and fuse holder and still no luck.

Pops: For the most part not working. The left will intermittently fire when activated. These are all on same column (7). I had bad diode on the center pop which I replaced.

Left Top Lane: This had been working intermittently, but since fixing the diode on the pop it seems to be consistent now. (column 6 and row one same row as left pop).

I replaced all of the diodes on the pops, and lane guides. I have continuity on the pops through the rest f the column to the right ramp enter and exit (latter are working 100% and diodes are A-OK).

When running the switch test the three pops and the left lane are showing closed. Any suggestions on where to look next? I watched Terry B's video and have been reading his writeup on switch matrix issues, but this has me stumped. The pops and left lane are presenting like a diode/downed wire and I have no idea what would be causing the mini flipper to malfunction like that.

OK, I just removed the balls from the ball trough to see if that was triggering the closed switches and I now only get the four problematic one. I guess I should just remove one off of the line at a time to see which on is triggering the others.

Fixed the left top lane (not sure how). The pops are closed because they are physically closed. Time to straighten that out. Hopefully the mini flipper will be a similar issue. My friend stated he verified that it was not a mech issue, but I think I'll double check his work.

Everything else was mechanical. The bad diode cause some issues in other places and misaligned switches the rest. Always double check other people's work.

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