(Topic ID: 269190)

Stars 2020 - new code for Stern Stars (1978)

By DickHamill

3 years ago


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  • Latest reply 8 days ago by DickHamill
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#51 3 years ago

@bcrage88 - currently, I do honor the DIP switch setting for novelty vs. special & extra ball, and the "Award Scores" can be disabled by setting them to zero, so yes.

Additionally, the next version will have the ability to set the point values (through the self test parameters using just the front door buttons) for Wow (extra ball) and Special.

#52 3 years ago
Quoted from DickHamill:

I have no idea! I glanced at that board and it looks like it's the same architecture, but I don't have any experience with it. The approach for a stock MPU100 is to pull the M6800 and plug into J5. This approach doesn't use any of the RAM/ROM chips on the MPU (just uses the internal memory of the Arduino), so you would lose access to all those images on the weebly while this was plugged in.
So... not sure, but maybe? Perhaps someone more experienced could answer this better.

Can't say for sure but will probably work. If the nano will drive A12 on the MPU through J5 then two jumpers need changed if they exist (MPU newer than a couple years old) otherwise there could be contention with a 74hct32. Above J5 two solder pad jumpers 'J-(A8-A12)' removed and 'J-A12 added. That puts J5's A12 pin right on the CPU address bus. If those jumpers do not exist then its already connected with A12 to J5 and no modification needed.

Plugging a leaded wire into the CPU socket for the IRQ may damage the IC socket used if you ever want to go back to the normal processor. Attaching a wire to a socket mating header pin or perhaps a cut off chip leg may be better. Use at your own risk on the nvram.weebly replacement.

#53 3 years ago

I have an Alltek board, has anyone tried this with one?

#54 3 years ago
Quoted from barakandl:

Can't say for sure but will probably work. If the nano will drive A12 on the MPU through J5 then two jumpers need changed if they exist (MPU newer than a couple years old) otherwise there could be contention with a 74hct32. Above J5 two solder pad jumpers 'J-(A8-A12)' removed and 'J-A12 added. That puts J5's A12 pin right on the CPU address bus. If those jumpers do not exist then its already connected with A12 to J5 and no modification needed.
Plugging a leaded wire into the CPU socket for the IRQ may damage the IC socket used if you ever want to go back to the normal processor. Attaching a wire to a socket mating header pin or perhaps a cut off chip leg may be better. Use at your own risk on the nvram.weebly replacement.

barakandl I'm only using A0, A1, A3, A4, and A7. Currently, I'm leaving A2, A5, A6, A8, and A13 floating, and grounding A9, A10, A11, and A12. Here's a table:
A0 - hooked to Arduino A0
A1 - hooked to Arduino A1
A2 - not connected
A3 - hooked to Arduino A2
A4 - hooked to Arduino A3
A5 - not connected on mine, but on RoyGBev 's board, (for MPU200) this will be hooked to Arduino D13
A6 - not connected
A7 - hooked to Arduino A4
A8 - not connected
A9 - connected to ground
A10 - connected to ground
A11 - connected to ground
A12 - connected to ground
A13 - not connected
A14 - doesn't exist on mine, but on MPU200 & -35, this will be not connected

Will grounding those pins cause the contention you're talking about?
I hear what you're saying about plugging a wire into U9. So far, I haven't had problems but I will put a note on my documentation as a warning. That's a fair point.

#55 3 years ago
Quoted from DickHamill:

Do people change out chips to change rulesets? Is that a common thing, or should there be an easier way?

I do, but I have ZIF sockets on all my games that I do this on.

It wouldn't be that hard to build the daughter board that people use to hold pincoder 's test roms and adapt that to something else, as well.

Since you already have the arduino plugged into J5 with all the correct address and data lines there, maybe have it act as an eprom emulator. No reason why it couldn't.

#56 3 years ago
Quoted from DickHamill:

I hear what you're saying about plugging a wire into U9.

You could instead somehow hook up to the /IRQ line at the top leg of the pull-up resistor R134 down the bottom of the factory MPU boards.
Note the Stern MPU-200 boards actually have the CPU /IRQ line routed to J5 pin 34. It might not be too much of a stretch for people going through this to extend their existing J5 pin header and add the CPUs /IRQ line there.

#57 3 years ago
Quoted from slochar:

I do, but I have ZIF sockets on all my games that I do this on.
It wouldn't be that hard to build the daughter board that people use to hold pincoder 's test roms and adapt that to something else, as well.
Since you already have the arduino plugged into J5 with all the correct address and data lines there, maybe have it act as an eprom emulator. No reason why it couldn't.

I've thought about that, but on the Arduino Nano I just have enough pins to address the PIA chips. It would require a bigger (and more expensive) Arduino to do the full address bus. And you would still have to remove the M6800 to run the new code, so not much gained.

#58 3 years ago

This is extremely cool!!! Stars was already a really neat game, I’m sure this makes it even better.

#59 3 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

You could instead somehow hook up to the /IRQ line at the top leg of the pull-up resistor R134 down the bottom of the factory MPU boards.
Note the Stern MPU-200 boards actually have the CPU /IRQ line routed to J5 pin 34. It might not be too much of a stretch for people going through this to extend their existing J5 pin header and add the CPUs /IRQ line there.

Yes, the bottom of R134 would work as well, if someone wants to do a clip instead of pushing into their socket.
Now that you mention it, if the IRQ was read from the bottom of R134, and /HLT (or the bottom of R135) was shorted to ground, maybe the M6800 wouldn't have to be removed. Then this daughter card could just attach to a stock board on J5 with no change to the installed chips.
I'll have to try that... First, I need to verify that the M6800 is totally tri-state when /HLT is low, but it must be.

#60 3 years ago

Top of R134

Quoted from DickHamill:

First, I need to verify that the M6800 is totally tri-state when /HLT is low, but it must be.

Indeed it should be: Is VMA going to be a problem with the Arduino driving it? There's a 3.3k ohm resistor in series with the VMA signal out of the 6800 so it can be driven externally.

6800_Halt.png6800_Halt.png

#61 3 years ago

What would be really cool is if you could put it in the menu system somehow so you can change easily between them. 0 for Normal rules and 1 for Updated rules but I am sure that isn’t an option or it would have already been done.

#62 3 years ago

Thanks Quench I'll give that a try then. I'm using VMA through J5:pin26 (to give the proper pulse to U10 & U11), but that 3.3k should only sink 1mA, and the Arduino shouldn't have any problem. I believe it can source 40mA per pin.

#63 3 years ago
Quoted from DickHamill:

barakandl I'm only using A0, A1, A3, A4, and A7. Currently, I'm leaving A2, A5, A6, A8, and A13 floating, and grounding A9, A10, A11, and A12. Here's a table:
A0 - hooked to Arduino A0
A1 - hooked to Arduino A1
A2 - not connected
A3 - hooked to Arduino A2
A4 - hooked to Arduino A3
A5 - not connected on mine, but on roygbev 's board, (for MPU200) this will be hooked to Arduino D13
A6 - not connected
A7 - hooked to Arduino A4
A8 - not connected
A9 - connected to ground
A10 - connected to ground
A11 - connected to ground
A12 - connected to ground
A13 - not connected
A14 - doesn't exist on mine, but on MPU200 & -35, this will be not connected
Will grounding those pins cause the contention you're talking about?
I hear what you're saying about plugging a wire into U9. So far, I haven't had problems but I will put a note on my documentation as a warning. That's a fair point.

If a12 is grounded through the j5 connector then the 'j-(a8-a15)' jumper out and 'j-a12' in in case the 74HCT32 output used to keep the sb300/SB100 out of the expanded nvram space has contention trying to drive the forced to ground a12 on the nvram.weebly replacement. Might damage the chip.

#64 3 years ago

Very nice. Well-written code as well (not 10 layers of esoteric classes, macros, obscure library calls, and variable names containing only one letter from the alphabet as is often seen on github).

#65 3 years ago
Quoted from yendor0:

Very nice. Well-written code as well (not 10 layers of esoteric classes, macros, obscure library calls, and variable names containing only one letter from the alphabet as is often seen on github).

Thanks - it's definitely not as clear as I would like and I need more documentation. I wanted 10 layers of awesome OOP, but the Arduino couldn't take it
Seriously, at some point I had to move a bunch of variables out of function calls because there was too much overhead.

#66 3 years ago

I'm not sure how the Arduino thing works... but the usual course is at boot time it looks for an input or interrupt. Like say you power the game on with the red test button or Credit button pressed.... if that happens it runs stock code.... if not it runs modified game rules code. something like that. Or pressing the red test button gets you into a menu system where you can change the rules. That's how Pascal does it with his Gottlieb system80 board. Basically at power on you hold a button (Credit button or red test button, i forget), and you can set the game to run any of the games he has programmed into his Arduino based board.

#67 3 years ago

DickHamill Im happy to report I have my Stars running with your rules, but with the older stars2020.ino without SelfTestAndAudit.h. Running the lasted code and powering on wasn't locking on coils like i first thought, it was testing all the coils and switches at once. Pressing the coin door audit button would cycle, but I couldn't get it to start a game. I put the M6800 back in to test and all was normal. For now I'll just run the older code and enjoy some pinball. Thanks for the help.

#68 3 years ago
Quoted from 8bitrobo:

dickhamill Im happy to report I have my Stars running with your rules, but with the older stars2020.ino without SelfTestAndAudit.h. Running the lasted code and powering on wasn't locking on coils like i first thought, it was testing all the coils and switches at once. Pressing the coin door audit button would cycle, but I couldn't get it to start a game. I put the M6800 back in to test and all was normal. For now I'll just run the older code and enjoy some pinball. Thanks for the help.

8bitrobo - So glad to hear your machine is in a better place! I hated the thought of your Stars going haywire. The one time that happened to me (bad wiring on my part), it was nerve-racking. I'm hoping you can get the latest code sorted out eventually. There were a couple of bugs (mostly lights coming not coming on when they should) and features that I've added recently. I'll probably end up changing a couple of things in the next week, to be honest, so maybe check back in a bit and see if that code works for you.

#69 3 years ago

Just think about all the people who complained it took a long time for Ghostbusters to be updated.

Stern really dragged their feet on this update!!!!

#70 3 years ago

This is incredible. Very nice work!

#71 3 years ago

Good news on the dual-boot front--I clipped a line to the top of R134 (thanks Quench ) and made a jumper block to a couple of pins, and I'm able to run the Arduino on the board with the M6800 still installed.

I made a video:

To switch to the Arduino, I installed a switch to turn off the +5V to the Arduino, and I installed a 5-pin block of ground pins on my card. In order to take over, one pin grounds the /RDY line on J5:pin24. I also have to ground J5:pins10-13 so the addressing with work for the Arduino. This can be done on a single switch if anyone has a Quintuple Pole / Single Throw switch.

Anyway, it's still not an adjustment through the menu or anything, but it's essentially now a dual-boot machine without installing or removing any parts.

If anyone has thoughts on how to make this a little more convenient (a switch behind the coin door would be ideal) I would love to hear ideas.

#72 3 years ago

@dickhamill, I just uploaded the newest code. I love it! The new skill shot rules are awesome. The match feature is really well implemented. I never expected to be so impressed by a match screen. I figure a code update after 42 years deserved a little flair. The 8x32 matrix display is run from a different arduino and blue tacked to the backglass for the time being. My backglass is pretty roached, so once I figure a permanent location I'll have no issue scraping the paint so that it's visible from behind. Trigger warning: LEDs in an early solid state Stern. I had to butcher the video file to upload a gif with Pinside's 10.5 mb limit.

stars20208x32 (4) (resized).pngstars20208x32 (4) (resized).png
#73 3 years ago

D'oh! Never mind, the gif doesn't move.

#74 3 years ago

CousinPookie That's amazing! Have you managed to beat all the goals yet? I keep falling short.

#75 3 years ago

Not even close. I like that the stars goal is actually attainable in a 3 ball game. I've done that and the pop bumper one, but the target goal will probably take a while. wizard modes aren't supposed to be easy any way.

#76 3 years ago

I bet this new code increases the demand for the game. Stars had lagged a bit behind some of the other classic sterns, and not because it’s layout. I can’t wait to get to play this new code at a show somewhere.

#77 3 years ago
Quoted from TigerLaw:

I bet this new code increases the demand for the game. Stars had lagged a bit behind some of the other classic sterns, and not because it’s layout. I can’t wait to get to play this new code at a show somewhere.

I am not sure why it has lagged. Honestly one of the better Sterns!
Maybe due to sheer # made? With over 5000 of them and seems like they were consistently liked/did well on route, that many survived... probably has helped keep price down?

#78 3 years ago

Glad I got mine I doubt it will ever leave. Wish there was a bundled packaged that could be purchased trying to source all this stuff from Canada sucks lol.

Quoted from TigerLaw:

I bet this new code increases the demand for the game. Stars had lagged a bit behind some of the other classic sterns, and not because it’s layout. I can’t wait to get to play this new code at a show somewhere.

#79 3 years ago

I always thought Stars was one of the better if not best Stern MPU100 game.

#80 3 years ago
Quoted from pins4life33:

What would be really cool is if you could put it in the menu system somehow so you can change easily between them. 0 for Normal rules and 1 for Updated rules but I am sure that isn’t an option or it would have already been done.

@bcrage88
I figured out a way to make my machine dual-boot, but it's not quite as convenient as a menu option. I posted a video above. I've added a switch and connector so I can play on the old M6800/ROM or enable the new rules with the Arduino. It requires opening the head, but at least you don't have to pull chips anymore.

#81 3 years ago

Yes, the solution is brilliant. Our machine is on location and the ability to switch is ideal as we have regular and competitive play. Once I get all of the parts sourced I should be able to do a stream on it too show it off as we have full stream capability at our location. Do you have a link to source the switch from? I am going to build three of these as a friend has a Stars, and another friend as Blackjack .

Quoted from DickHamill:

bcrage88
I figured out a way to make my machine dual-boot, but it's not quite as convenient as a menu option. I posted a video above. I've added a switch and connector so I can play on the old M6800/ROM or enable the new rules with the Arduino. It requires opening the head, but at least you don't have to pull chips anymore.

#82 3 years ago
Quoted from pins4life33:

Yes, the solution is brilliant. Our machine is on location and the ability to switch is ideal as we have regular and competitive play. Once I get all of the parts sourced I should be able to do a stream on it too show it off as we have full stream capability at our location. Do you have a link to source the switch from?

@bcrage88
The way I have it right now, I'm using a single pole single throw switch to supply 5V to the Arduino, and then a little header block to ground 5 pins of J5 (pin24, 10, 11, 12, and 13).
I think the switch I used was one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/mxuteuk-Terminal-Position-Miniature-Dashboard/dp/B07QGDDTWJ/

But I'm hoping that someone reads this thread and comes up with a more clever way of doing this, so we can get it down to one switch.

Looking at the schematics again, it looks like I might be able to get away with just grounding Halt, A9, & A12 (pins 24, 10, and 13). I'll give that a try in a minute. If that works out, then everything could be switched with one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/mxuteuk-Terminal-Position-Miniature-Dashboard/dp/B07XMH174C/

That switch could be panel mounted somewhere with a short jumper. Like I said, this is speculation. I'm waiting to either have a revelation or for someone else to have a revelation and let me know. Like, maybe there's an IC that would do the trick...

#83 3 years ago

Have the arduino control the switch. It boots up and then if you want the old code, it switches the switch and stops whatever its doing to the mpu board. If the Halt line is the only one that needs to be switched on and off, a simple transistor circuit should be able to do this to not overload whatever the sink capability of the arduino pins are. If it's more than one line, I'm sure there's lots of IC's that can do the job with one signal from the arduino.

#84 3 years ago

I think you already mentioned it but is there any Arduino ROM space left to implement the stock ruleset?
If not, is it possible to extend the Arduino ROM space by using a reprogrammed EPROM on the MPU board? Probably too much work.

#85 3 years ago

Since uploading a gif was an epic fail, here is a youtube link of a brief demo of the LED matrix:

It's a super simple VERY basic tweak of a sample sketch in the MD_Parola library.

@quench: I think when I uploaded the latest code last night the Nano memory was 89% full. I believe an Arduino mega would have more than enough memory to do anything you could realistically ever want to do. It would also have the advantage of having 3 discrete serial ports besides the usb for programming. That way you could have your laptop plugged in for debug while also sending data to a wav trigger for audio, data to the LED matrix, and have a spare channel for something else. I would imagine with the OS already written, if the classic rules were coded along with some sort of menu/ choice of game to play a button could be added to the inside of the coin door to switch. Video above as an example of 2020, or Classic for the old rules. I realize I'm leaving the scope of the original plan to only use stock hardware, but I think it would be amazing. I know next to nothing of coding but I have all of the hardware, a soldering iron, and the will to be the guinea pig if some of you Pinsiders that are smarter than I am can tell me what I need to do.

I'd like to take a second to thank DickHamill for lighting a fire under a few of us and putting in a lot of hard work to figure this out and share it with us so that we can do it as well. The man didn't even dump the roms. He hooked up a freaking oscilloscope and figured out how it worked and wrote code to an Arduino to make it even better. He then gave detailed instructions that even a monkey with a soldering iron like me could figure out. You rock! If you don't change a thing, it's already amazing!

#86 3 years ago

cfh thanks for the non-Amazon links. Amazon sucks. I got a the nanos from a guy in Texas so they'd get here a little quicker than the ones from overseas. Looking forward to the project! Got a couple spares as well.

#87 3 years ago
Quoted from slochar:

Have the arduino control the switch. It boots up and then if you want the old code, it switches the switch and stops whatever its doing to the mpu board. If the Halt line is the only one that needs to be switched on and off, a simple transistor circuit should be able to do this to not overload whatever the sink capability of the arduino pins are. If it's more than one line, I'm sure there's lots of IC's that can do the job with one signal from the arduino.

I don't have any more signal lines available from the Arduino, but I think maybe I can do it with a tri-state buffer. I'm thinking the 74126, since the "G" signal when low will disable (tri-state) the outputs. Then tie all the "A" inputs low, and when the switch is flipped, I can ground Halt, A9, and A12. It adds a $0.79 part to the board, but it means the whole thing can be switched with a single switch on 5V (so a power line, not a signal line).

So I'm thinking I could mount the switch at the end of 6' of wire and put it behind the door.

Before I go order the IC and try it, does anyone see a hole in this theory? I'm attaching a circuit diagram.

Wiring rev3 (resized).pngWiring rev3 (resized).png
#88 3 years ago
Quoted from slochar:

Have the arduino control the switch. It boots up and then if you want the old code, it switches the switch and stops whatever its doing to the mpu board. If the Halt line is the only one that needs to be switched on and off, a simple transistor circuit should be able to do this to not overload whatever the sink capability of the arduino pins are. If it's more than one line, I'm sure there's lots of IC's that can do the job with one signal from the arduino.

I don't have any more signal lines available from the Arduino, but I think maybe I can do it with a tri-state buffer. I'm thinking the 74126, since the "G" signal when low will disable (tri-state) the outputs. Then tie all the "A" inputs low, and when the switch is flipped, I can ground Halt, A9, and A12. It adds a $0.79 part to the board, but it means the whole thing can be switched with a single switch on 5V (so a power line, not a signal line).

So I'm thinking I could mount the switch at the end of 6' of wire and put it behind the door.

Before I go order the IC and try it, does anyone see a hole in this theory?

Wiring rev3 (resized).pngWiring rev3 (resized).png
#89 3 years ago

CousinPookie Love that backglass!

#90 3 years ago

I don't know how much memory the Arduino has, but Pascal re-wrote about 20 gottlieb system80 games in his Arduino based CPU board. you just select the game you want from a menu. Me think this may be possible for this unit too...

if it was me, i would use the exact same 'core' for any game. Changing between games should be simple and occupy small space...

and Chalkey, i'm with ya. i don't shop on Amazon. it makes me feel dirty.

#91 3 years ago
Quoted from cfh:

I don't know how much memory the Arduino has, but Pascal re-wrote about 20 gottlieb system80 games in his Arduino based CPU board. you just select the game you want from a menu. Me think this may be possible for this unit too...
if it was me, i would use the exact same 'core' for any game. Changing between games should be simple and occupy small space...
and Chalkey, i'm with ya. i don't shop on Amazon. it makes me feel dirty.

Here's the current state of the code:

Sketch uses 27174 bytes (88%) of program storage space. Maximum is 30720 bytes.
Global variables use 1333 bytes (65%) of dynamic memory, leaving 715 bytes for local variables. Maximum is 2048 bytes.

The Nano is tiny (and inexpensive, which is why I chose it), but with a larger board a person could write endless variations. One of my goals was to keep the whole project to less than $20.

If I exposed a few more controls to the menus, one could probably configure a pretty decent simulation of the original Stars in the same codebase as mine. All the code is out there if someone wants to run with that idea!

I'm not really excited to re-implement those old rules, but for some odd reason I'm tickled by the idea of having my machines "dual-boot". I found a tri-state line buffer in my stash of ICs, so I'm going to try the idea I outlined above. Right now, I have to open the head, flip a switch, and remove a connector. If this new plan works, I will be able to run a simple switch to the coin door.

#92 3 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

You could instead somehow hook up to the /IRQ line at the top leg of the pull-up resistor R134 down the bottom of the factory MPU boards.
Note the Stern MPU-200 boards actually have the CPU /IRQ line routed to J5 pin 34. It might not be too much of a stretch for people going through this to extend their existing J5 pin header and add the CPUs /IRQ line there.

Quench - you have any thoughts about where to source some leg clips? I'm considering just buying some of those spring-loaded kind and cutting them in half, but I'm not sure I like that solution long term.
https://www.amazon.com/Yohii-Temperature-Silicone-Electronics-Testing/dp/B07DRJ7Y87/

#93 3 years ago

CousinPookie, may I just say that backglass you got going on there has got to be the greatest thing in pinball I’ve ever seen. I want that BAD but I’m the one monkey with a soldering iron that can’t do it. How much would you want to do mine? I’ll send you whatever you need from my game.

#94 3 years ago
Quoted from DickHamill:

I'm not really excited to re-implement those old rules...

We are

#95 3 years ago

@xtraball: There's no solder in that circuit. Below are the parts that I used. All you need besides that is some wire to power it all up. It's really not that complicated. As a complete Arduino noob, I figured it out in an evening. I only changed a few things in an example sketch to make it work.

If you get the parts I'll help you get it going. Note that it's just blue tacked to the front of the backglass.
Arduino starter kit: https://www.microcenter.com/product/617246/inland-nano-ft232-starter-kit
Dot Matrix LED: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FFV537V/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00

#96 3 years ago
Quoted from DickHamill:

Sketch uses 27174 bytes (88%) of program storage space. Maximum is 30720 bytes.

You have 3546 of free program bytes.
Stars stock code is about 4k bytes. Based on experience with other early games, half or more of that will be the operating system.

You've already written your operating system. I know you can't compare code bases 1 to 1 but is it conceivable someone could add the simple stock ruleset onto your operating system with the spare space available?

Quoted from CousinPookie:

here is a youtube link of a brief demo of the LED matrix:

Wow, nice touch!

Quoted from DickHamill:

quench - you have any thoughts about where to source some leg clips? I'm considering just buying some of those spring-loaded kind and cutting them in half, but I'm not sure I like that solution long term.
amazon.com link »

I have those spring loaded clips on my logic probe, half the time I connect them to these old MPU boards they don't make good contact. Add that resistor R134 is usually in the strike zone of battery corrosion so its legs will more than likely be rather tarnished. An alligator clip might work better but truthfully, I agree that it's not a good solution.
Personally I would install 2 header pins on the board (next to J5) and wire the /IRQ line to pin 34 like the MPU-200 boards. I don't know how comfortable you or others will be with doing this.
It's a bit of a tricky one..

#97 3 years ago

Were you able to determine which switch to use? We have all of our stuff in our cart ready to go.

Thanks!!!

Quoted from DickHamill:

bcrage88
The way I have it right now, I'm using a single pole single throw switch to supply 5V to the Arduino, and then a little header block to ground 5 pins of J5 (pin24, 10, 11, 12, and 13).
I think the switch I used was one of these:
amazon.com link »
But I'm hoping that someone reads this thread and comes up with a more clever way of doing this, so we can get it down to one switch.
Looking at the schematics again, it looks like I might be able to get away with just grounding Halt, A9, & A12 (pins 24, 10, and 13). I'll give that a try in a minute. If that works out, then everything could be switched with one of these:
amazon.com link »
That switch could be panel mounted somewhere with a short jumper. Like I said, this is speculation. I'm waiting to either have a revelation or for someone else to have a revelation and let me know. Like, maybe there's an IC that would do the trick...

#99 3 years ago
Quoted from pins4life33:

Were you able to determine which switch to use? We have all of our stuff in our cart ready to go.
Thanks!!!

@bcrage88
If you can live with the switch being inside the head of the machine (no more than a few inches from the MPU, then use this one:
https://www.amazon.com/mxuteuk-Terminal-Position-Miniature-Dashboard/dp/B07XMH174C/
And wire it to ground J5:pins 24, 13, and 10 on one side of the switch and 5V to the arduino on the other. I don't have that switch in my hand, but looking at the part I believe the wires would go:

(pin24) G (nothing)
(pin10) G (nothing)
(pin13) G (nothing)
(nothing) 5v Arduino Vin

The other option (and I'm just getting this worked out on my machine) is to use a 74126 to do the ground of the 3 pins and then you can use a simple switch at the end of a longer wire:
https://www.amazon.com/mxuteuk-Terminal-Position-Miniature-Dashboard/dp/B07QGDDTWJ/

Then you can wire it like in the diagram above. I haven't tested this with a 74126, but I'm currently working with a 74LS240, and I think I'm pretty close.

#100 3 years ago

Awesome news we are building 5 of them just more economical that way, and we bought both kinds of switches just in case look forward to getting all the parts and trying it out!!!

Quoted from DickHamill:

bcrage88
If you can live with the switch being inside the head of the machine (no more than a few inches from the MPU, then use this one:
amazon.com link »
And wire it to ground J5:pins 24, 13, and 10 on one side of the switch and 5V to the arduino on the other. I don't have that switch in my hand, but looking at the part I believe the wires would go:
(pin24) G (nothing)
(pin10) G (nothing)
(pin13) G (nothing)
(nothing) 5v Arduino Vin
The other option (and I'm just getting this worked out on my machine) is to use a 74126 to do the ground of the 3 pins and then you can use a simple switch at the end of a longer wire:
amazon.com link »
Then you can wire it like in the diagram above. I haven't tested this with a 74126, but I'm currently working with a 74LS240, and I think I'm pretty close.

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